UKC

Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

13m.

Rockfax Description
The best route on the wall gives hard and fingery climbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , North Wales Sport 2016 , Rock cats getting strong , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales isnt just slate apparently

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ed Roome 8 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: took two attempts, looks straight forward from the ground but many of the holds are shitter than they appear. Good route overall tho very sustained
βeta?
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βeta: took two attempts, looks straight forward from the ground but many of the holds are shitter than they appear. Good route overall tho very sustained
Tall Gecko Hands 26 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A fair bit of polish yet still painful on the fingertips
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fair bit of polish yet still painful on the fingertips
Fraser kid 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Polished, extremely sharp pile of dud!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Polished, extremely sharp pile of dud!

Logged Ascents

635 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Pen Trwyn

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 76 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 116
Votes cast 103
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rough Rider

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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