Rockfax Description
An unusual route that gains the exposed side wall of the zawn via a cramped crawl. Start at the right-hand end of the ledge.
1) 17m. Crawl under the overhang and climb a groove to easier ground that leads left to a ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Finish up the cracks above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Best avoided in the spring because cormorants nest on it.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
climbdevon 25 May -
JuliaMat 21 Apr 2nd
with roryj
with roryj
buffclimbymatthew 21 Apr Lead
roryj 21 Apr Lead O/S
Chimnastics 18 Apr Lead O/S Great piece of esoterica! Interesting squirm. There was no way I could squirm all the way from the back. Presumably most people do what I did and slot your legs in a grovel sideways whilst looking into the sea below and the mouth of the huge cave? A precarious, balancey move follows, to gain a standing position. Gear is poor to start, but the climbing is not hard and bomber gear follows. Felt bad suddenly disturbing a nesting cormorant, which took flight leaving its eggs unattended. I hope it returned to them once we'd left. I did the whole thing in 1 pitch to minimise the disturbance (no rope issues whatsoever). I'd recommend this climb, but don't be a tuppence like me and climb it when its occupied by nesting birds. Not worth doing in two pitches, do it as one.
Great piece of esoterica! Interesting squirm. There was no way I could squirm all the way from the back. Presumably most people do what I did and slot your legs in a grovel sideways whilst looking into the sea below and the mouth of the huge cave? A precarious, balancey move follows, to gain a standing position. Gear is poor to start, but the climbing is not hard and bomber gear follows. Felt bad suddenly disturbing a nesting cormorant, which took flight leaving its eggs unattended. I hope it returned to them once we'd left. I did the whole thing in 1 pitch to minimise the disturbance (no rope issues whatsoever). I'd recommend this climb, but don't be a tuppence like me and climb it when its occupied by nesting birds. Not worth doing in two pitches, do it as one.
richfitz 8 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
mcgovern 18 May, 2017 2nd smelliest route i've ever done - awful!
with pete
smelliest route i've ever done - awful!
with pete
mattparratt 23 Jun, 2014 AltLd Daren Blackburn got the slithery first pitch - definitely an 'entertaining' pitch
Daren Blackburn got the slithery first pitch - definitely an 'entertaining' pitch
gowla 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Alan Dovey
with Alan Dovey
Hidden ?Oct, 2010 -
crobinson 5 Sep, 2009 Lead I still chuckle when I think about the first moves of this route! Glad Tom and I hadn't had a big lunch, there isnt much room for the belly treverse!
I still chuckle when I think about the first moves of this route! Glad Tom and I hadn't had a big lunch, there isnt much room for the belly treverse!
Tom Last 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Robinson you bastard. Confined spaces and bird shit, your forte! Led scrappy second pitch. Top route.
Robinson you bastard. Confined spaces and bird shit, your forte! Led scrappy second pitch. Top route.
Nigel Coe 26 May, 2003 Lead
with Amnon
with Amnon
colin milton 15 Apr, 1995 Lead
with eric milton
with eric milton
Roget 16 Sep, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Norman_P_W ?May, 1987 AltLd
GordonHart ?Aug, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Dave Monteith
with Dave Monteith
Nigel Bond 21 Jul, 1982 Lead
with Ben Foord
with Ben Foord
Brian Wilderspin 2 Sep, 1981 AltLd O/S
Hammy 12 Aug, 1981 Lead
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
babymoac 19 Aug, 1980 AltLd
with MTW
with MTW
RichardMc 17 Apr, 1976 2nd O/S
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Rick51 15 Aug, 1971 Lead
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