Restricted Access
While located on private land, the landowner is welcoming to climbers as long as its small numbers using the venue, dogs strictly under control and on a leash at all times and no litter or damage caused to boundaries. Please ask permission from the farmer at Coed Mawr Farm especially during lambing season.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction for nesting Ravens and Kestrels apply to the whole of the left hand (Cheshire Cat) buttress only.
30m.
The first line on the R/H buttress. Start on the left end of the buttress, just to the right of the vegetated gully and arête. Climb direct to the overlap (peg). Pull the overlap into a wide crack, and tussle with the crack until established on the wall above (crux). Climb slightly left, to a peg, then back right until beneath the owl hole on the left side of the very overhanging wall. Climb to the owl hole, and make great moves, hand traversing right, (hands just beneath the overhang, feet on not-a-lot!) to reach the peg and crozzly pocket of Genericon Limits. Finish the final steep moves of Genericon Limits passing the pegs.
Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt 17/Jun/2021.
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Route of Interest
Cold Fusion
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Dinas Mot)