Rockfax Description
A wonderful route tracing a sustained path up the Great Wall on immaculate rock. Take lots of small wires. Start 5m right of Eroica at a short high-angled slab beneath a thin crack-system.

1) 6a, 46m. Step up onto the high-angled slab and move up left to the thin cracks. Climb the thin crack-system to two short left to right-leaning cracks - peg. Move up the wall rightwards past a distinct white quartz patch and enter the very slim left-facing corner above. Follow the corner to a tricky exit onto easier-angled rock. Work up the slabby, lichen splashed wall to a stance beneath a leaning corner.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner and steep flake to an easier exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, Ultimate E5 ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist, The Lifetime List

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Wil Treasure 28 Aug Show βeta
βeta: No pegs, gear in the top half is spaced but good, take lots of RPs/small nuts.
 
Show beta
βeta: No pegs, gear in the top half is spaced but good, take lots of RPs/small nuts.
Eduardo Martinez 19 Aug, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: No pegs now but adequately protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No pegs now but adequately protected.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Wil Treasure 24 Aug Lead O/S Didn't expect to get this.
Didn't expect to get this.
Martin Bagshaw 24 Aug 2nd dog Got a bit crunched up after the traverse and slipped off going for a long move. Brilliant insight from Wil. Felt like being a passenger for the last pitch but would have enjoyed leading it. Very 3d climbing on it.
Got a bit crunched up after the traverse and slipped off going for a long move. Brilliant insight from Wil. Felt like being a passenger for the last pitch but would have enjoyed leading it. Very 3d climbing on it.
Paul Baller 26 Jul 2nd On shunt, did the start of darkinbad
On shunt, did the start of darkinbad
Hidden 14 Jul 2nd
tjmillen 14 Jul Lead G/U
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden 17 Nov, 2018 Lead RP
JendeHoxar 22 Oct, 2018 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 22 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Not sure what was more harrowing: warming up on this, having nowhere near enough right size gear or somehow having fecking Little Mix stuck in my head on lead. An incredible climb and its calleeed Blaaaack Magiiiiicccc - Argh!
Not sure what was more harrowing: warming up on this, having nowhere near enough right size gear or somehow having fecking Little Mix stuck in my head on lead. An incredible climb and its calleeed Blaaaack Magiiiiicccc - Argh!
MGrock 28 Aug, 2017 2nd Very sustained.
Very sustained.
Ellis Bird 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Absorbing from bottom to top that doesn't let up until you reach the belay. It's like having 40 or so 5b/c moves, one after another with very little respite but never too desperate. I had no chalk to follow that made it harder. Total classic and one of the best E5s I've done in Britain. Top pitch was also good in it's own way; at one point you bridge across the bottomless corner to look directly down 60m to the boulders below.
Absorbing from bottom to top that doesn't let up until you reach the belay. It's like having 40 or so 5b/c moves, one after another with very little respite but never too desperate. I had no chalk to follow that made it harder. Total classic and one of the best E5s I've done in Britain. Top pitch was also good in it's own way; at one point you bridge across the bottomless corner to look directly down 60m to the boulders below.
Graham Atkins 23 Jul, 2017 2nd
ferdia 15 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S when i was last here 2 weeks ago i wasn't quite up to getting on this though i got a good idea of the line as it was chalked. all chalk gone today!! led both pitches. main pitch including first 5m not bold if you take tonnes of small gear and runners. spent a lot of the route worried about the reports of little gear in the upper section unfortunately, but it's there and it's good. great to finally lead one of the main pitches on this wall. upper pitch is fierce and has some awful rock.
with Lou Reynolds
when i was last here 2 weeks ago i wasn't quite up to getting on this though i got a good idea of the line as it was chalked. all chalk gone today!! led both pitches. main pitch including first 5m not bold if you take tonnes of small gear and runners. spent a lot of the route worried about the reports of little gear in the upper section unfortunately, but it's there and it's good. great to finally lead one of the main pitches on this wall. upper pitch is fierce and has some awful rock.
with Lou Reynolds
Hidden 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
morganator 18 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Sublime intricate wall climbing, first pro at 5m but not too hard getting there. Never desperate but mostly pretty tricky. Spaced gear but good. Run out but easier at the top when it gets a bit yellow /lichenous. I lead pitch 1 and followed pitch 2 which is a contrasting fun steep corner. The wall comes into sun from 5pm.
with Keita Kurakami
Sublime intricate wall climbing, first pro at 5m but not too hard getting there. Never desperate but mostly pretty tricky. Spaced gear but good. Run out but easier at the top when it gets a bit yellow /lichenous. I lead pitch 1 and followed pitch 2 which is a contrasting fun steep corner. The wall comes into sun from 5pm.
with Keita Kurakami
Ed morris 24 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant and ultimately safe as long as you find the all the gear, 3 bomber runners halfway up the groove. Led both pitches.
with Colin
Brilliant and ultimately safe as long as you find the all the gear, 3 bomber runners halfway up the groove. Led both pitches.
with Colin
duncan 9 Jul, 2016 2nd I led second pitch...
with Fiend
I led second pitch...
with Fiend
ian bryant ??, 2016 -
LRob ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
datoon 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2
with datoon
Lead P2
with datoon
Adam Booth 2 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf Couldn't find the way at the top of the groove. Couldn't even find any holds to get committed on, it just seemed to blank out. Very lichenous. Shame, looked like the angle started to kick back a couple of meters from where I got to. I thought the gear was pretty good unlike some of the other comments on here. Spaced in places, and mainly very small wires, but good. I took a good lob moving into the groove after the traverse right. Way harder than Darkinbad I thought.
with Stu Bradbury
Couldn't find the way at the top of the groove. Couldn't even find any holds to get committed on, it just seemed to blank out. Very lichenous. Shame, looked like the angle started to kick back a couple of meters from where I got to. I thought the gear was pretty good unlike some of the other comments on here. Spaced in places, and mainly very small wires, but good. I took a good lob moving into the groove after the traverse right. Way harder than Darkinbad I thought.
with Stu Bradbury
markalmack 21 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S lower half was very nice E3. upper half was serious shit your pants territory. felt like i took a couple of years off my life. im still not sure if i enjoyed it. 2 hours on p1
with GAL
lower half was very nice E3. upper half was serious shit your pants territory. felt like i took a couple of years off my life. im still not sure if i enjoyed it. 2 hours on p1
with GAL
Russell Blackaller 1 Sep, 2013 2nd dog The most terrifying belay ever. Thoroughly scared for Luke on the last 10 meters or so of the 1st pitch. Glad a rather large block came bouncing down and not him. Gutted i slipped off just after the traverse, didn't expect it at all. I guess I'll be going back.... hmmm
The most terrifying belay ever. Thoroughly scared for Luke on the last 10 meters or so of the 1st pitch. Glad a rather large block came bouncing down and not him. Gutted i slipped off just after the traverse, didn't expect it at all. I guess I'll be going back.... hmmm
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd
colesy 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S This was the most scared that I've been on a route in quite some time, the top felt very lonely. None of the pegs are there at present and the gear is very spaced and very poor for the last 30 or 40 foot. A fall from the top grove would not have been nice. There was no chalk on the route and lichen on the holds so finding the exact line at the top wasn't completely obvious. However, what a bloody good route! A full 3 stars for this one, I felt that every 1 of the 5 E points was very well earned!
with Ged Desforges
This was the most scared that I've been on a route in quite some time, the top felt very lonely. None of the pegs are there at present and the gear is very spaced and very poor for the last 30 or 40 foot. A fall from the top grove would not have been nice. There was no chalk on the route and lichen on the holds so finding the exact line at the top wasn't completely obvious. However, what a bloody good route! A full 3 stars for this one, I felt that every 1 of the 5 E points was very well earned!
with Ged Desforges
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18 May, 2013 Lead rpt Led p1, followed p2. 7a+ on RPs & spaced wires.
with Jon Redmond
Led p1, followed p2. 7a+ on RPs & spaced wires.
with Jon Redmond
kingholmesy ??, 2013 Lead O/S A bit harder, a lot scarier, and not quite as good as Darkinbad. Led both pitches. Pulled a huge block off while balancing up the top of P1 miles above my last wobbly runner.
A bit harder, a lot scarier, and not quite as good as Darkinbad. Led both pitches. Pulled a huge block off while balancing up the top of P1 miles above my last wobbly runner.
pezzerrr 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
with Alex Haslehurst
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd led pitch 2. quality. super stylish and sustained p1
led pitch 2. quality. super stylish and sustained p1
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 3 Jun, 2011 2nd
tuftynick 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 28 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2, really sustained thin wall climbing on first pitch, a few moves felt reachy but could just be because i follwed mike. Seond pitch is well worth doing at E2 5b. Super steep n huge jugs.
Led P2, really sustained thin wall climbing on first pitch, a few moves felt reachy but could just be because i follwed mike. Seond pitch is well worth doing at E2 5b. Super steep n huge jugs.
Mike Goldthorp 28 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Absolutely amazing! This wall is among the most impressive I have seen, and this route just milks it! From the rightwards traverse onwards is where it becomes (solid) E5, feeling airy and very thin at times!
Absolutely amazing! This wall is among the most impressive I have seen, and this route just milks it! From the rightwards traverse onwards is where it becomes (solid) E5, feeling airy and very thin at times!
Toby Dunn 25 Jul, 2010 2nd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Rowansb 17 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S first E5 onsight!! had to fight for it though!
with Rob gibson
first E5 onsight!! had to fight for it though!
with Rob gibson
Hidden 11 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 11 May, 2010 AltLd Led top (5c) pitch of Last Leviathan.
with Tadej (Slovenia)
Led top (5c) pitch of Last Leviathan.
with Tadej (Slovenia)
steepstuff ?May, 2008 2nd
Kev Little ??, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 2nd O/S
andi turner 29 May, 2006 Lead O/S Fantastic.
with grimer
Fantastic.
with grimer
GeoffG ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ??, 2005 2nd dog
with Adam Mulholland
with Adam Mulholland
Steve Long 16 Aug, 2004 Lead Climbed the same day that much of Cornwall was shut down by severe flooding!
with Chris Parkin
Climbed the same day that much of Cornwall was shut down by severe flooding!
with Chris Parkin
ecowaller ??, 2000 Lead O/S Another fantastic climb, oh how I wish I could climb like this always....
with Andy Reid
Another fantastic climb, oh how I wish I could climb like this always....
with Andy Reid
goi.ashmore 29 Aug, 1999 Lead β
with James Tracey
with James Tracey
duncan 14 Aug, 1997 Lead β
UKB Shark ?Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 15 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 31 Jul, 1995 2nd O/S
with Ian Parnell, Kath Pyke
with Ian Parnell, Kath Pyke
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
with Kat
with Kat
mattnuttall 20 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
crossleysm ??, 1994 2nd O/S
frank ramsay 19 Apr, 1992 Lead
Matt Clifton ??, 1992 Lead O/S on same day as Darkinbad and Eroica
with Helen
on same day as Darkinbad and Eroica
with Helen
Mike Owen 10 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set