Rockfax Description
A wonderful route tracing a sustained path up the Great Wall on immaculate rock. Take lots of small wires. Start 5m right of Eroica at a short high-angled slab beneath a thin crack-system.

1) 6a, 46m. Step up onto the high-angled slab and move up left to the thin cracks. Climb the thin crack-system to two short left to right-leaning cracks - peg. Move up the wall rightwards past a distinct white quartz patch and enter the very slim left-facing corner above. Follow the corner to a tricky exit onto easier-angled rock. Work up the slabby, lichen splashed wall to a stance beneath a leaning corner.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner and steep flake to an easier exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, Ultimate E5 ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist.

MGrock 28/Aug 2nd

Very sustained.

Ellis Bird 28/Aug Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez 19/Aug Lead O/S

Absorbing from bottom to top that doesn't let up until you reach the belay. It's like having 40 or so 5c moves, one after another with very little respite. I had no chalk to follow. Total classic and one of the best E5s in Britain. No pegs now but adequately protected. Top pitch was also good in it's own way; at one point you bridge across the bottomless corner to look directly down 60m to the boulders below.

Graham Atkins 23/Jul 2nd
ferdia 15/Jun Lead O/S

when i was last here 2 weeks ago i wasn't quite up to getting on this though i got a good idea of the line as it was chalked. all chalk gone today!! led both pitches. main pitch including first 5m not bold if you take tonnes of small gear and runners. spent a lot of the route worried about the reports of little gear in the upper section unfortunately, but it's there and it's good. great to finally lead one of the main pitches on this wall. upper pitch is fierce and has some awful rock.

with Lou Reynolds
Hidden 27/May Lead O/S
morganator 18/May AltLd O/S

Sublime intricate wall climbing, first pro at 5m but not too hard getting there. Never desperate but mostly pretty tricky. Spaced gear but good. Run out but easier at the top when it gets a bit yellow /lichenous. I lead pitch 1 and followed pitch 2 which is a contrasting fun steep corner. The wall comes into sun from 5pm.

with Keita Kurakami
Ed morris 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant and ultimately safe as long as you find the all the gear, 3 bomber runners halfway up the groove. Led both pitches.

with Colin
duncan 09/Jul/16 2nd

I led second pitch...

ian bryant ??/2016 -
LRob ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
datoon 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

Adam Booth 02/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Couldn't find the way at the top of the groove. Couldn't even find any holds to get committed on, it just seemed to blank out. Very lichenous. Shame, looked like the angle started to kick back a couple of meters from where I got to. I thought the gear was pretty good unlike some of the other comments on here. Spaced in places, and mainly very small wires, but good. I took a good lob moving into the groove after the traverse right. Way harder than Darkinbad I thought.

with Stu Bradbury
markalmack 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

lower half was very nice E3. upper half was serious shit your pants territory. felt like i took a couple of years off my life. im still not sure if i enjoyed it. 2 hours on p1

with gwen
R2B 01/Sep/13 2nd dog

The most terrifying belay ever. Thoroughly scared for Luke on the last 10 meters or so of the 1st pitch. Glad a rather large block came bouncing down and not him. Gutted i slipped off just after the traverse, didn't expect it at all. I guess I'll be going back.... hmmm

with Luke
Hidden 10/Jul/13 AltLd
colesy 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

This was the most scared that I've been on a route in quite some time, the top felt very lonely. None of the pegs are there at present and the gear is very spaced and very poor for the last 30 or 40 foot. A fall from the top grove would not have been nice. There was no chalk on the route and lichen on the holds so finding the exact line at the top wasn't completely obvious. However, what a bloody good route! A full 3 stars for this one, I felt that every 1 of the 5 E points was very well earned!

with Ged Desforges
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18/May/13 Lead rpt

Led p1, followed p2. 7a+ on RPs & spaced wires.

with Jon Redmond
kingholmesy ??/2013 Lead O/S

A bit harder, a lot scarier, and not quite as good as Darkinbad. Led both pitches. Pulled a huge block off while balancing up the top of P1 miles above my last wobbly runner.

with RusseyB
pezzerrr 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Graham Atkins 09/Jul/11 AltLd

led pitch 2. quality. super stylish and sustained p1

Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd
tuftynick 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2, really sustained thin wall climbing on first pitch, a few moves felt reachy but could just be because i follwed mike. Seond pitch is well worth doing at E2 5b. Super steep n huge jugs.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely amazing! This wall is among the most impressive I have seen, and this route just milks it! From the rightwards traverse onwards is where it becomes (solid) E5, feeling airy and very thin at times!

Toby Dunn 25/Jul/10 2nd
with Andy Reeve
Rowansb 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

first E5 onsight!! had to fight for it though!

with Rob gibson
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 11/May/10 AltLd

Led top (5c) pitch of Last Leviathan.

with Tadej (Slovenia)
Hidden ??/2007 2nd O/S
andi turner 29/May/06 Lead O/S


with grimer
GeoffG ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ??/2005 2nd dog
with Adam Mulholland
Steve Long 16/Aug/04 Lead

Climbed the same day that much of Cornwall was shut down by severe flooding!

with Chris Parkin
ecowaller ??/2000 Lead O/S

Another fantastic climb, oh how I wish I could climb like this always....

with Andy Reid
goi.ashmore 29/Aug/99 Lead β
with James Tracey
duncan 14/Aug/97 Lead β
with Hugo Glover
ukb & bmc shark ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 15/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 31/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with Ian Parnell, Kath Pyke
Hidden ?/Jul/95 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with Kat
mattnuttall 20/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
frank ramsay 19/Apr/92 Lead
Mike Owen 10/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
21 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 20
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set