Restricted Access
Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.
There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.
Rockfax Description
The groove and steep wall gives a short but pleasant climb. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Featuring one of most positive holds possible on slate. This is a route requiring some strength. Start 3m right of My Hovercraft is Full of Eels. Some excellent moves.
5 bolts to a lower-off.
Zippy.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jade_climbs | 10 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose block midway up | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loose block midway up |
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| SED | 29 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: First ascensionist (zippy) graded this 6B, and this has been graded 5C by mistake by whoever added the listing. The stone with the name on it might well have been moved. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First ascensionist (zippy) graded this 6B, and this has been graded 5C by mistake by whoever added the listing. The stone with the name on it might well have been moved. |
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| *superchilled | 1 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed a line which had the name of this route on a piece of slate at the bottom. No idea if it was this though. The location and grade don't seem to match -- the route I climbed was the line of bolts in between My Hovercraft is Full of Eels and Mini Bus Stop; felt way harder than 5c!! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Climbed a line which had the name of this route on a piece of slate at the bottom. No idea if it was this though. The location and grade don't seem to match -- the route I climbed was the line of bolts in between My Hovercraft is Full of Eels and Mini Bus Stop; felt way harder than 5c!! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry
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The Changeling
Grade: 6b ***
(Bryn Eglwys Quarry)