250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 250m. A turbo classic - this is a route with quite a reputation and with good reason. The majority of the moves are friction-based and, whilst protection is just about good enough, every pitch requires a steady head and solid slab technique. Most of the protection (other than some bolts, which are generally where you need them) is small wires and cams, so micro cams and a small set of micro wires are vital.
1) 5c. Climb a short crack and step right to belay 5m below a small overlap.
2) 6b. Follow a thin seam up to the overlap then step left to go through it and gain another seam. Follow this as it arcs back rightwards to a small belay ledge.
3) 6a. Go straight up the slab above then go up and left underneath a big detached flake (try not to dwell on it) to finish up a crack.
4) 6b. Head straight up a slab, then traverse out right and avoid the crack above by traversing across another slab to another crack. Follow this to an exposed stance.
5) 6a+. Move left to reach a shallow groove. Climb the groove leftwards as it gradually peters out into a slab and then follow a snappy flake to belay beneath an overlap.
6) 6a+. Go left for 4m to get through the overlap then come back right across a slab to a blunt overlap (do not be tempted to climb the thin seam which initially looks more appealing than the traverse right). Follow the second blunt overlap to reach a small ledge.
7) 5c. Traverse up and left via a lovely crack system.
Descent - Abseil the route using 2 x 50m ropes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An instant classic. very popular route. Good rappel points. Re-equipped in August 2009 - old spinning 8mm bolt belays replaced with bomber glue-ins. Still feels like E3 6a.

F5+, F6b, F6a, F6b, F6a+, F6a+, F6a. 5 Raps with 60s.

M. Piola and G. Hopfgartner 18/Jul/1983

Ticklists

10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, Alpine Dreamz

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
nathanlee 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Led evens. Easy but also wild in places. Superb!!
Led evens. Easy but also wild in places. Superb!!
HeatherF 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Excellent route-glad it was a comfortable grade otherwise would have been mega mega gripped, rather than just mega gripped
Excellent route-glad it was a comfortable grade otherwise would have been mega mega gripped, rather than just mega gripped
Hidden 3 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf
Tom Seccombe 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd dog Grabbed the draw on the crux.
with Oche, Alex
Grabbed the draw on the crux.
with Oche, Alex
Hidden 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hamish Frost 10 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
treesrockice 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Thought this was amazing. Lead Ps 3,4 & 5
with LucaC
Thought this was amazing. Lead Ps 3,4 & 5
with LucaC
LucaC 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Started with some random pitch of the Kohlmann-Mazeaud because the rockfax topo is misleading with the perspective of the picture - the overlaps in the picture aren’t the big roofs in the middle of the face, they are the smaller ones to the left. Lead p1 and the first 6b pitch.
with Bede
Started with some random pitch of the Kohlmann-Mazeaud because the rockfax topo is misleading with the perspective of the picture - the overlaps in the picture aren’t the big roofs in the middle of the face, they are the smaller ones to the left. Lead p1 and the first 6b pitch.
with Bede
Rharrison 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route
with Tyler
Great route
with Tyler
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 2 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jul, 2017 AltLd
martinov 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S With Desi & Silveto. Real treasure.
With Desi & Silveto. Real treasure.
Hidden 3 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 8 Jul, 2016 AltLd G/U Ace route, all pitches are excellent. Slipped off the start of the second '6b' bit, ground upped the pitch
with Ben Coope
Ace route, all pitches are excellent. Slipped off the start of the second '6b' bit, ground upped the pitch
with Ben Coope
i_a_coops 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route, the best slabby route I've ever done! The two crux sections are well protected by bolts (just as well as they are desperate!) and there are occasional bolts elsewhere to protect the harder bits of there is no gear but a full rack is still requires and there are some spicy rumours. Thought the pitch grades were HVS, E2/3 5c/6a, E2 5b, E2/3 5c/6a, E2 5c, E2 5b/c, HVS. Lots of E1 5a and E2 5b ground throughout. Alternated leads with me starting and finishing, so Ian did both cruxes, which felt very thin and tenuous, though cold fingers didn't help (generally the temperature was fine but tiny crimps straight after belaying made for cold fingers). Four abs back down. Got greedy and skipped the first ab station thinkin I would reach the next one at the top of P5. The 56m rope was a bit short... (looked like the 60m one would just about reach on stretch) Had to build a temporary belay and shouted for Ian to ab off the station above. We weren't in a rush as had bivvy gear stashed next to the lift. Just under 5 hours for the route and an hour to ab down. Two hours approach including soloing the approach pitch and just over an hour walk out including abbing the approach pitch. Back before the last lift but we were bivvying anyway.
Great route, the best slabby route I've ever done! The two crux sections are well protected by bolts (just as well as they are desperate!) and there are occasional bolts elsewhere to protect the harder bits of there is no gear but a full rack is still requires and there are some spicy rumours. Thought the pitch grades were HVS, E2/3 5c/6a, E2 5b, E2/3 5c/6a, E2 5c, E2 5b/c, HVS. Lots of E1 5a and E2 5b ground throughout. Alternated leads with me starting and finishing, so Ian did both cruxes, which felt very thin and tenuous, though cold fingers didn't help (generally the temperature was fine but tiny crimps straight after belaying made for cold fingers). Four abs back down. Got greedy and skipped the first ab station thinkin I would reach the next one at the top of P5. The 56m rope was a bit short... (looked like the 60m one would just about reach on stretch) Had to build a temporary belay and shouted for Ian to ab off the station above. We weren't in a rush as had bivvy gear stashed next to the lift. Just under 5 hours for the route and an hour to ab down. Two hours approach including soloing the approach pitch and just over an hour walk out including abbing the approach pitch. Back before the last lift but we were bivvying anyway.
Paul Collins 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd I'd say its E3 6a, some of the hardest pitches aren't the ones that are the given the hardest grades!
I'd say its E3 6a, some of the hardest pitches aren't the ones that are the given the hardest grades!
Sam Marks 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Our first route in the Alps this year. Very nice, agree its about E3, apparently its going to fall down!
with George Newham
Our first route in the Alps this year. Very nice, agree its about E3, apparently its going to fall down!
with George Newham
liamo333 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 14 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
Claire Molloy 7 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
NewHam ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
doctorgranite ??, 2015 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Despite looking dry the day before, pitch 2 was of typical wetness which made it all the more interesting. Really quite a good route!
Despite looking dry the day before, pitch 2 was of typical wetness which made it all the more interesting. Really quite a good route!
andyinglis 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lots of good tricky slab climbing. Good lead by ally on wet p2.
Lots of good tricky slab climbing. Good lead by ally on wet p2.
jcw ??, 2013 -
Ben Briggs 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd I block led the first half and thor the second. Second pitch was interesting being completely covered in running water, slipped off once on this pitch but did the rest o/s.
with Thor, Cedric
I block led the first half and thor the second. Second pitch was interesting being completely covered in running water, slipped off once on this pitch but did the rest o/s.
with Thor, Cedric
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
reima 9 Aug, 2011 2nd dnf Relaxed day of sports climbing became misery as the clouds rolled in and the temperature plummeted, and ropes got stuck 3 times on the 3 abs we did bailing off the route. Maybe next time with a better forecast...
with Niamh
Relaxed day of sports climbing became misery as the clouds rolled in and the temperature plummeted, and ropes got stuck 3 times on the 3 abs we did bailing off the route. Maybe next time with a better forecast...
with Niamh
Hidden 20 Jul, 2010 Lead
Franco Cookson 15 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Led the 2nd, 4th, 5th and 7th. Brilliant route with some cool run outs. Make sure you take some nuts and small/medium cams.
Led the 2nd, 4th, 5th and 7th. Brilliant route with some cool run outs. Make sure you take some nuts and small/medium cams.
Dave Warburton 15 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Awesome Climbing! Rack required.
Awesome Climbing! Rack required.
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd dnf
lukehunt 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Will Sim
with Will Sim
AnnaBacklund ?Aug, 2009 2nd
Kyuzo ?Aug, 2009 - Now re-equipped with bomber glue-ins. Still feels like E3.
with Joe Prinold, Hal Watts
Now re-equipped with bomber glue-ins. Still feels like E3.
with Joe Prinold, Hal Watts
liz j 26 Aug, 2008 2nd The 'original' bolts, they are all loose!!!
with Matt Dickinson
The 'original' bolts, they are all loose!!!
with Matt Dickinson
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 -
Nick Wallis ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Tom Chamberlain, Martin Cooper
with Tom Chamberlain, Martin Cooper
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with Will Barbour
with Will Barbour
rocksol ??, 1999 Lead Good warm up for tougher tests hereabouts
Good warm up for tougher tests hereabouts
craig h ?Aug, 1998 AltLd
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
Climbingspike ??, 1996 -
Hidden ?Sep, 1995 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22 Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S Great Route
with James Ibbertson
Great Route
with James Ibbertson
Dave Musgrove 5 Aug, 1994 AltLd A bit of a hybrid I think we started up Profit? to avoid the queue but still a superb experience at around E2 5c
with Paul Dawson
A bit of a hybrid I think we started up Profit? to avoid the queue but still a superb experience at around E2 5c
with Paul Dawson
Robmwatt ??, 1994 -
Tim Sparrow ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
with ChrisJD
with ChrisJD
Hidden ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Stone
with Stone
crossleysm ??, 1991 AltLd with Joe
with Joe
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
pauldrew ?Jul, 1990 AltLd Waterfall in middle as snow on ledges above route started melting.
with Jim Hart, Dominic Leggett
Waterfall in middle as snow on ledges above route started melting.
with Jim Hart, Dominic Leggett
Hidden ?Jul, 1990 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 10 Aug, 1989 AltLd
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 Lead
BigHairyIan 19 Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S BRILLIANT DAY OUT! Probably me climbing at my best ever. E3 6a in English Grades. I'm pleased to read that the bolts have been replaced. Presumably this also applies to the abseil descent, one of the stations had a popped bolt when we were there: possibly the most scared I have ever been!
with Steve Waite (Little Steve)
BRILLIANT DAY OUT! Probably me climbing at my best ever. E3 6a in English Grades. I'm pleased to read that the bolts have been replaced. Presumably this also applies to the abseil descent, one of the stations had a popped bolt when we were there: possibly the most scared I have ever been!
with Steve Waite (Little Steve)
Neil McA 22 Jul, 1988 AltLd
with Paul (?)
with Paul (?)
Johnny Baker ?Aug, 1987 -
with Richard Newey
with Richard Newey
Hidden 14 Jul, 1987 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14 Jul, 1987 AltLd rpt
Bruce Kerr 30 Jul, 1986 AltLd
with Grahame Nicoll
with Grahame Nicoll
Hidden 25 Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd
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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 9
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set