250m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 250m. A turbo classic - this is a route with quite a reputation and with good reason. The majority of the moves are friction-based and, whilst protection is just about good enough, every pitch requires a steady head and solid slab technique. Most of the protection (other than some bolts, which are generally where you need them) is small wires and cams, so micro cams and a small set of micro wires are vital.
1) 5c. Climb a short crack and step right to belay 5m below a small overlap.
2) 6b. Follow a thin seam up to the overlap then step left to go through it and gain another seam. Follow this as it arcs back rightwards to a small belay ledge.
3) 6a. Go straight up the slab above then go up and left underneath a big detached flake (try not to dwell on it) to finish up a crack.
4) 6b. Head straight up a slab, then traverse out right and avoid the crack above by traversing across another slab to another crack. Follow this to an exposed stance.
5) 6a+. Move left to reach a shallow groove. Climb the groove leftwards as it gradually peters out into a slab and then follow a snappy flake to belay beneath an overlap.
6) 6a+. Go left for 4m to get through the overlap then come back right across a slab to a blunt overlap (do not be tempted to climb the thin seam which initially looks more appealing than the traverse right). Follow the second blunt overlap to reach a small ledge.
7) 5c. Traverse up and left via a lovely crack system.
Descent - Abseil the route using 2 x 50m ropes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An instant classic. very popular route. Good rappel points. Re-equipped in August 2009 - old spinning 8mm bolt belays replaced with bomber glue-ins. Still feels like E3 6a.

F5+, F6b, F6a, F6b, F6a+, F6a+, F6a. 5 Raps with 60s.

M. Piola and G. Hopfgartner 18/Jul/1983

Ticklists: 10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, Alpine Dreamz.


ClimberDateStyle
nathanlee 27/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

Led evens. Easy but also wild in places. Superb!!

HeatherF 27/Sep/18 AltLd O/S

Excellent route-glad it was a comfortable grade otherwise would have been mega mega gripped, rather than just mega gripped

Hidden 03/Sep/18 AltLd dnf
Tom Seccombe 21/Aug/18 AltLd dog

Grabbed the draw on the crux.

with Oche, Alex
Hidden 11/Aug/18 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/18 AltLd dnf
treesrockice 04/Aug/18 Lead O/S

Thought this was amazing. Lead Ps 3,4 & 5

with LucaC
LucaC 04/Aug/18 AltLd O/S

Started with some random pitch of the Kohlmann-Mazeaud because the rockfax topo is misleading with the perspective of the picture - the overlaps in the picture aren’t the big roofs in the middle of the face, they are the smaller ones to the left. Lead p1 and the first 6b pitch.

with Bede
Rharrison 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Great route

with Tyler
Hidden 03/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 02/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/17 AltLd
martinov 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

With Desi & Silveto. Real treasure.

Hidden 03/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 08/Jul/16 AltLd G/U

Ace route, all pitches are excellent. Slipped off the start of the second '6b' bit, ground upped the pitch

with Ben Coope
i_a_coops 26/Aug/15 AltLd
with Misha
Misha 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, the best slabby route I've ever done! The two crux sections are well protected by bolts (just as well as they are desperate!) and there are occasional bolts elsewhere to protect the harder bits of there is no gear but a full rack is still requires and there are some spicy rumours. Thought the pitch grades were HVS, E2/3 5c/6a, E2 5b, E2/3 5c/6a, E2 5c, E2 5b/c, HVS. Lots of E1 5a and E2 5b ground throughout. Alternated leads with me starting and finishing, so Ian did both cruxes, which felt very thin and tenuous, though cold fingers didn't help (generally the temperature was fine but tiny crimps straight after belaying made for cold fingers). Four abs back down. Got greedy and skipped the first ab station thinkin I would reach the next one at the top of P5. The 56m rope was a bit short... (looked like the 60m one would just about reach on stretch) Had to build a temporary belay and shouted for Ian to ab off the station above. We weren't in a rush as had bivvy gear stashed next to the lift. Just under 5 hours for the route and an hour to ab down. Two hours approach including soloing the approach pitch and just over an hour walk out including abbing the approach pitch. Back before the last lift but we were bivvying anyway.

Paul Collins 24/Jul/15 AltLd

I'd say its E3 6a, some of the hardest pitches aren't the ones that are the given the hardest grades!

Sam Marks 24/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Our first route in the Alps this year. Very nice, agree its about E3, apparently its going to fall down!

with George Newham
liamo333 24/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Lead dog
Claire Molloy 07/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Mark Thomas
NewHam ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
doctorgranite ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Despite looking dry the day before, pitch 2 was of typical wetness which made it all the more interesting. Really quite a good route!

andyinglis 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lots of good tricky slab climbing. Good lead by ally on wet p2.

jcw ??/2013 -
Ben Briggs 02/Aug/12 AltLd

I block led the first half and thor the second. Second pitch was interesting being completely covered in running water, slipped off once on this pitch but did the rest o/s.

with Thor, Cedric
Hidden 31/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
reima 09/Aug/11 2nd dnf

Relaxed day of sports climbing became misery as the clouds rolled in and the temperature plummeted, and ropes got stuck 3 times on the 3 abs we did bailing off the route. Maybe next time with a better forecast...

with Niamh
Hidden 20/Jul/10 Lead
Franco Cookson 15/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led the 2nd, 4th, 5th and 7th. Brilliant route with some cool run outs. Make sure you take some nuts and small/medium cams.

Dave Warburton 15/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome Climbing! Rack required.

Hidden ??/2010 AltLd dnf
lukehunt 20/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Will Sim
AnnaBacklund ?/Aug/09 2nd
Kyuzo ?/Aug/09 -

Now re-equipped with bomber glue-ins. Still feels like E3.

with Joe Prinold, Hal Watts
liz j 26/Aug/08 2nd

The 'original' bolts, they are all loose!!!

with Matt Dickinson
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
Nick Wallis ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Tom Chamberlain, Martin Cooper
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Will Barbour
rocksol ??/1999 Lead

Good warm up for tougher tests hereabouts

craig h ?/Aug/98 AltLd
with Janet Hannah
Climbingspike ??/1996 -
Hidden ?/Sep/95 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Aug/94 AltLd O/S

Great Route

with James Ibbertson
Dave Musgrove 05/Aug/94 AltLd

A bit of a hybrid I think we started up Profit? to avoid the queue but still a superb experience at around E2 5c

with Paul Dawson
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/91 AltLd
with ChrisJD
Hidden ?/Aug/91 AltLd
frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
crossleysm ??/1991 AltLd

with Joe

Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
pauldrew ?/Jul/90 AltLd

Waterfall in middle as snow on ledges above route started melting.

with Jim Hart, Dominic Leggett
Hidden ?/Jul/90 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 10/Aug/89 AltLd
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead
BigHairyIan 19/Aug/88 AltLd O/S

BRILLIANT DAY OUT! Probably me climbing at my best ever. E3 6a in English Grades. I'm pleased to read that the bolts have been replaced. Presumably this also applies to the abseil descent, one of the stations had a popped bolt when we were there: possibly the most scared I have ever been!

with Steve Waite (Little Steve)
Neil McA 22/Jul/88 AltLd
with Paul (?)
Johnny Baker ?/Aug/87 -
with Richard Newey
Hidden 14/Jul/87 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/87 AltLd rpt
Bruce Kerr 30/Jul/86 AltLd
with Grahame Nicoll
Hidden 25/Jul/86 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
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Voting
High ED1
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High TD+
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High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 8
High 6b+
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Votes cast 1
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set