II, 190m. A wonderful route which finds a way through some big country at a very amenable grade. Combining this with the one of the routes higher on the Peigne makes for a fantastic long day of granite rock climbing. If climbed on its own it is still more than worthwhile and gives a few hours of high mountain ambience with very little commitment. Start at the right-hand end of a slab at the foot of a line of ring bolts, 5m to the right of some older, black bolts.
1) 4b. Climb the slab, past the ring bolts, then step right and follow easier ground to a belay on a small ledge, 5m to the left of a chimney system and below a crack.
2) 4c. Follow the crack up into a corner and then climb this to a semi-hanging belay beneath an overlap.
3) 4c. Climb the crack directly above the belay to go through and overlap after 5m. Above the overlap, follow flakes out rightwards to a blunt arête. Continue up this via some slabby crack climbing to a spike belay on a large sloping ledge in a notch. There is a bolted belay 3m up and left of the ledge but the stance is nowhere near as comfortable so stick a sling around the spike to belay and use the bolted anchor as the first runner on the next pitch.
4) 5b. Head up the left-leaning corner-crack above the belay and then, where this ends, go straight up steeper ground. After 5m of steep rock the angle kicks back and leads leftwards to a belay beneath low-angled, broken ground.
5) 3c. Climb the broken slabby ground to join the Papillons Arête. © Rockfax
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents