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180m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 190m. A wonderful route which finds a way through some big country at a very amenable grade. Combining this with the one of the routes higher on the Peigne makes for a fantastic long day of granite rock climbing. If climbed on its own it is still more than worthwhile and gives a few hours of high mountain ambience with very little commitment. Start at the right-hand end of a slab at the foot of a line of ring bolts, 5m to the right of some older, black bolts.
1) 4b. Climb the slab, past the ring bolts, then step right and follow easier ground to a belay on a small ledge, 5m to the left of a chimney system and below a crack.
2) 4c. Follow the crack up into a corner and then climb this to a semi-hanging belay beneath an overlap.
3) 4c. Climb the crack directly above the belay to go through and overlap after 5m. Above the overlap, follow flakes out rightwards to a blunt arête. Continue up this via some slabby crack climbing to a spike belay on a large sloping ledge in a notch. There is a bolted belay 3m up and left of the ledge but the stance is nowhere near as comfortable so stick a sling around the spike to belay and use the bolted anchor as the first runner on the next pitch.
4) 5b. Head up the left-leaning corner-crack above the belay and then, where this ends, go straight up steeper ground. After 5m of steep rock the angle kicks back and leads leftwards to a belay beneath low-angled, broken ground.
5) 3c. Climb the broken slabby ground to join the Papillons Arête.
Descent - It is possible to abseil Les Lepidoptères but a much more enjoyable option is to climb the final two pitches of the Papillons Arête and descend from the end of this by making a 25m abseil down a steep corner on the south side of the Papillons Arête to reach the Papillons Couloir. From the top of Les Lepidotères you can also pass over onto the south side of the ridge to an bolted anchor 10m down and left, and make 2 x 25m abseils into the Papillons Couloir a little further down. Once in the couloir, descend the Peigne Normal Route by scrambling and one further abseil.
The obvious downside of this descent is that you will need to carry your rucksacks up and over the route, but it makes the day much more of an adventure. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+), Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

User Date Notes
Webster 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: hard to find the start of the route in poor vis with bolts everywhere and all ledges looking the same. we finnaly found it and there is now an excavated bivy ledge right below the line of hard to spot ring bolts, your welcome!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: hard to find the start of the route in poor vis with bolts everywhere and all ledges looking the same. we finnaly found it and there is now an excavated bivy ledge right below the line of hard to spot ring bolts, your welcome!
iainJ 11 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Take a rack - small nuts and cams especially useful. Bolts are non existent for most of the route and spaced where they are, mainly on the lower pitches. Route starts just to the right of where 'Verdon' is Written on the rock. Right turning is more than the 50m rockfax suggests after the 4a pitch on the approach.Halfs essential if abbing, 60's recommended but could do on 50s.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take a rack - small nuts and cams especially useful. Bolts are non existent for most of the route and spaced where they are, mainly on the lower pitches. Route starts just to the right of where 'Verdon' is Written on the rock. Right turning is more than the 50m rockfax suggests after the 4a pitch on the approach.Halfs essential if abbing, 60's recommended but could do on 50s.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

North Face Original Route

Grade: D ***
(Aiguille du Bionnassay)