40m.
A steep, physical and uncompromising line that is very well protected in the lower and middle sections and sparsely protected on the upper arête. The route climbs without any deviation, straight up the middle of the wall between The Sun and Warpath Direct, and onto to the stunning, hanging arête on the right of the Warpath headwall. A section of the arête was climbed in 2015 by Twid Turner/ Steve Long and called No Country for Young Men. This climb starts from a belay on the small ledge halfway up The Sun, placing high runners on the right, before stepping back down and undercutting left to ‘grope for a low sidepull around the arête’, before continuation of the arête.
Start from the beach, the same as for the Sun if you are taking the, ‘from the beach’, start. Climb a short way, before moving left to a large ledge and arrange protection (shared with Warpath Direct) on the left. Move right, and climb the short, crumbly white wall, until good holds at the break beneath the overhang. Pull through the overhang (good gear), on quartz flatties, before climbing direct, up a faint grove on positive snappies. A collection of flakes and bulbous fins are now reached, where a quasi, lie down rest can be taken. Climb the overhanging groove/corner above, before moving slightly right and boldly yarding through a very steep section on sharp sidepulls, that leads to the large break. Arrange bomber protection, before easing yourself into the kneebar. The first in a series of undercuts, just to the right of the arête, can be taken from the kneebar, before wild undercutting and a couple of hard moves, reach the obvious flake on the left side of the arête (this is where No Country for Young Men came in). There is gear here, but it’s awkward and strenuous to place. Continue directly up the arête, using crimps on the right, and side-pulls on the left, before reaching the top of the arête as for Warpath. On this upper section, there are a few small bits of OK protection, but hanging-in to place them, makes serious inroads into the arms and head!
Start from the beach, the same as for the Sun if you are taking the, ‘from the beach’, start. Climb a short way, before moving left to a large ledge and arrange protection (shared with Warpath Direct) on the left. Move right, and climb the short, crumbly white wall, until good holds at the break beneath the overhang. Pull through the overhang (good gear), on quartz flatties, before climbing direct, up a faint grove on positive snappies. A collection of flakes and bulbous fins are now reached, where a quasi, lie down rest can be taken. Climb the overhanging groove/corner above, before moving slightly right and boldly yarding through a very steep section on sharp sidepulls, that leads to the large break. Arrange bomber protection, before easing yourself into the kneebar. The first in a series of undercuts, just to the right of the arête, can be taken from the kneebar, before wild undercutting and a couple of hard moves, reach the obvious flake on the left side of the arête (this is where No Country for Young Men came in). There is gear here, but it’s awkward and strenuous to place. Continue directly up the arête, using crimps on the right, and side-pulls on the left, before reaching the top of the arête as for Warpath. On this upper section, there are a few small bits of OK protection, but hanging-in to place them, makes serious inroads into the arms and head!
Nick Bullock. 21/Sep/2021.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nick Bullock | 16 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: All gear was placed on lead on the first ascent. | βeta? | |
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βeta: All gear was placed on lead on the first ascent. |
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Route of Interest
Stone Masonry
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Porth Dafarch)