UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

40m. A superb fierce but well protected eliminate. The route climbs the recently established route Pathological to the juggy break of Warpath, before gaining and finishing up the obvious very steep diagonal crack in the headwall. Start on the Boulder beach below and to the right of Warpath Direct. Climb Pathological to the juggy break at two thirds height, (Good rest stemmed across the corner of The Sun). Reach up rightwards to a good flat hold, hard moves up and leftwards gain the crack proper, follow the crack steeply to a hard exit onto a ledge (left of The Sun), finish direct.

Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 29/Sep/2021.

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Route of Interest
Tontons Macoute

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Penlas Rock)

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