60m, 2 pitches.
Good climbing up the obvious slim turfy left facing corner in the wall right of Blackbeard. Start at the base of Ruadh Eigg Chimney.
1. 40m Climb REC over the first small bulge and at the second larger bulge, move out leftwards on turf to the belay ledge of Blackbeard. Gain the slim corner by a difficult move into a thin crack. Follow the corner on turf and cracks until it is possible to step right into the small quartz bay (avoiding a lower escape line) and a shared belay with Youthful Enthusiasm.
2. 20m Follow the left leaning ramp/groove above on excellent hooks to the top of the buttress.
1. 40m Climb REC over the first small bulge and at the second larger bulge, move out leftwards on turf to the belay ledge of Blackbeard. Gain the slim corner by a difficult move into a thin crack. Follow the corner on turf and cracks until it is possible to step right into the small quartz bay (avoiding a lower escape line) and a shared belay with Youthful Enthusiasm.
2. 20m Follow the left leaning ramp/groove above on excellent hooks to the top of the buttress.
Huw Scott, Nathan Adam, Tom Fullen 09/Feb/2022.
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Route of Interest
Gargoyle Wall
Grade: VI 6 ***
(Ben Nevis)