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3 star Scottish winter, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Chasing the Ephemeral, Winter 2018/19

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
murray 9 Mar AltLd O/S
WillHempstead 9 Mar AltLd O/S first 6 lead!! Found in fairly good condition with some helpful Nevé about. Highlight was seeing someone ski down no3 gully with their dog running down behind them!
with murray
first 6 lead!! Found in fairly good condition with some helpful Nevé about. Highlight was seeing someone ski down no3 gully with their dog running down behind them!
with murray
jay.mac 23 Jan AltLd Lots of clearing (except for the crux where the team on Babylon had it cleared thanks) made for slow progress.
with lachlan
Lots of clearing (except for the crux where the team on Babylon had it cleared thanks) made for slow progress.
with lachlan
lachlan 23 Jan AltLd O/S
with jay.mac
with jay.mac
CharlieMack 21 Jan AltLd O/S Pretty bad weather throughout which made for a testing day! Quite a bit of unhelpful non consolidated snow about too. Great route that is interesting all the way. Bit of a beast for the first one of the season!
Pretty bad weather throughout which made for a testing day! Quite a bit of unhelpful non consolidated snow about too. Great route that is interesting all the way. Bit of a beast for the first one of the season!
Gordon Lacey 19 Jan AltLd dnf Great route and great day , lead pitch 1,2 and 4. Abed from ledge and missed pitch 5.
Great route and great day , lead pitch 1,2 and 4. Abed from ledge and missed pitch 5.
Martin McKenna - UKC 19 Jan AltLd dnf All but the last pitch. An enjoyable day but was fucking frozen and motivation dwindled. Couldn't see the easy alternative exit. Conditions quite challenging with quite a bit of snow but absolutely none of it useful. On the plus side gear was good. Abed from top of Gargoyle Cracks into Winter Chimney.
All but the last pitch. An enjoyable day but was fucking frozen and motivation dwindled. Couldn't see the easy alternative exit. Conditions quite challenging with quite a bit of snow but absolutely none of it useful. On the plus side gear was good. Abed from top of Gargoyle Cracks into Winter Chimney.
Hidden 17 Jan AltLd
Hidden 21 Dec, 2018 2nd
Hidden 21 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
Rhys Deane 3 Dec, 2018 AltLd
with Peter flanigan
with Peter flanigan
Robertgiddy 2 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Good early season conditions, enough gear but often a bit awkward to place - can see how this would be properly bold when icy. Thought P1, 2, & 5 were all harder leads than the "crux" gargoyle cracks which had secure feeling moves with tonnes of gear. Great sustained route!
Good early season conditions, enough gear but often a bit awkward to place - can see how this would be properly bold when icy. Thought P1, 2, & 5 were all harder leads than the "crux" gargoyle cracks which had secure feeling moves with tonnes of gear. Great sustained route!
iainballantyne 2 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Great route with interest throughout. Gargoyle cracks pitch probably the most secure and well protected pitch of the route. Same couldn't be said for the first pitch...
Great route with interest throughout. Gargoyle cracks pitch probably the most secure and well protected pitch of the route. Same couldn't be said for the first pitch...
James Gordon ?Dec, 2018 -
geoff b 27 Mar, 2018 AltLd What a sustained route & poorly protected in places (P1 & P4). Gaz took the glory & led all the hard pitches: a great effort considering how much ice there was obscuring the cracks & how little there was for the picks, not to mention the deteriorating weather!
with Gaz D
What a sustained route & poorly protected in places (P1 & P4). Gaz took the glory & led all the hard pitches: a great effort considering how much ice there was obscuring the cracks & how little there was for the picks, not to mention the deteriorating weather!
with Gaz D
lanky ?Mar, 2018 AltLd Very iced up, linked 1 and 2 got one bit of gear. Led the cracks and got one piece. Would of been better with stubbies.
with Sharpey
Very iced up, linked 1 and 2 got one bit of gear. Led the cracks and got one piece. Would of been better with stubbies.
with Sharpey
ferdia 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd G/U very icy - difficult to protect without a lot of peckers/terriers etc. solid effort by andy on all the consequently bold bits. i did the cracks pitch - much more my scene.
very icy - difficult to protect without a lot of peckers/terriers etc. solid effort by andy on all the consequently bold bits. i did the cracks pitch - much more my scene.
Andy Moles 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd Plenty of ice, not a lot of good gear.
with ferdia
Plenty of ice, not a lot of good gear.
with ferdia
Hidden 26 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
davkeo 26 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S Been wanting to do this one since first seeing it 3 years ago. It proved to be a much different experience than anticipated. On the day it was a thin ice climb with cracks heavily iced & gear practically non existent (at least on my pitches). I linked 1&2 to belay at the top of the snowy bay. A serious pitch with 4 pieces of pro placed & the top 2 of them being almost pointless. Felt very worrying pulling up & over the bulge but thankfully there was decent neve/ice to be had. Tim did p2 up to below the cracks. Good climbing. Although short, the cracks pitch was fully engaging & once again, gear was sparse. Got a good nut above the belay and 2 shite hexes after that. Also missed an insitu peg (which Tim later told me about) that would have been very welcome indeed before the final pullover. Tim took us to the top from there to make 4 good absorbing pitches. Keen to go back and do this as a snowed up rock route where I'd expect a completely contrasting outing.
Been wanting to do this one since first seeing it 3 years ago. It proved to be a much different experience than anticipated. On the day it was a thin ice climb with cracks heavily iced & gear practically non existent (at least on my pitches). I linked 1&2 to belay at the top of the snowy bay. A serious pitch with 4 pieces of pro placed & the top 2 of them being almost pointless. Felt very worrying pulling up & over the bulge but thankfully there was decent neve/ice to be had. Tim did p2 up to below the cracks. Good climbing. Although short, the cracks pitch was fully engaging & once again, gear was sparse. Got a good nut above the belay and 2 shite hexes after that. Also missed an insitu peg (which Tim later told me about) that would have been very welcome indeed before the final pullover. Tim took us to the top from there to make 4 good absorbing pitches. Keen to go back and do this as a snowed up rock route where I'd expect a completely contrasting outing.
Jamie Skelton 11 Jan, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
with Jack Morris
Andrew Wilson 28 Dec, 2017 AltLd Started up Babylon which was our original intention. 1st pitch quite loose, a large flake came off and chopped one of our ropes. After the cracks pitch we opted to finish up GW instead of finishing Babylon.
Started up Babylon which was our original intention. 1st pitch quite loose, a large flake came off and chopped one of our ropes. After the cracks pitch we opted to finish up GW instead of finishing Babylon.
mattnuttall 28 Dec, 2017 AltLd rpt Fresh snow made approach bit tricky. Unhelpful powder. Started Babylon but dislodged a flake on first pitch hidden in unhelpful powder and cut clean through one rope. Carried on to do gargoyle wall cracks and opted for gargoyle wall finish... will come back for Babylon which looks excellent. Conditions suit snowed up rock. Good choice. Across the gully a strong party climbed the Secret. Impressive to watch.
Fresh snow made approach bit tricky. Unhelpful powder. Started Babylon but dislodged a flake on first pitch hidden in unhelpful powder and cut clean through one rope. Carried on to do gargoyle wall cracks and opted for gargoyle wall finish... will come back for Babylon which looks excellent. Conditions suit snowed up rock. Good choice. Across the gully a strong party climbed the Secret. Impressive to watch.
Hidden 9 Dec, 2017 AltLd
Lamb 25 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S P2. Linked up middle pitch to include short corner and 'Gargoyle Cracks'. Made for a super fun and secure pitch. Solid lead in pretty full on conditions from Sean on P1 which had some cool moves over the chockstone which felt like the technical crux of the day. Brilliant route with three sustained and absorbing pitches. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/05/it-aint-over-till-fat-lady-sings.html
P2. Linked up middle pitch to include short corner and 'Gargoyle Cracks'. Made for a super fun and secure pitch. Solid lead in pretty full on conditions from Sean on P1 which had some cool moves over the chockstone which felt like the technical crux of the day. Brilliant route with three sustained and absorbing pitches. https://craiglamb.blogspot.co.uk/2017/05/it-aint-over-till-fat-lady-sings.html
seanhendo123 25 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant day, hard climbing in full on conditions. I lead first and last pitch with craig taking the short traverse (p2) and then the cracks. Verglas made cams very suspect so harder to protect. Excellent route
with Lamb
Brilliant day, hard climbing in full on conditions. I lead first and last pitch with craig taking the short traverse (p2) and then the cracks. Verglas made cams very suspect so harder to protect. Excellent route
with Lamb
Hidden 12 Feb, 2017 AltLd
olekemi 5 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S What a fine winter's day on an excellent route. Serious, sustained, and every bit (almost every move) interesting. Many strong climbers around.
with jeremy
What a fine winter's day on an excellent route. Serious, sustained, and every bit (almost every move) interesting. Many strong climbers around.
with jeremy
metrorat 4 Feb, 2017 AltLd dnf Cracks verglassed, protection sketchy. Backed off after first pitch
with Euan Maharg
Cracks verglassed, protection sketchy. Backed off after first pitch
with Euan Maharg
Hidden 28 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jan, 2017 AltLd
harry_lewis 28 Jan, 2017 AltLd rpt take 2 - sick route, quality climbing on every pitch
with Connor Read
take 2 - sick route, quality climbing on every pitch
with Connor Read
CRead 28 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Settled unfinished business! Led pitches 2 and 4, claiming O/S since I didn't get to my pitches last time....pretty loose I have to say!
Settled unfinished business! Led pitches 2 and 4, claiming O/S since I didn't get to my pitches last time....pretty loose I have to say!
harry_lewis 1 Jan, 2017 AltLd dnf dropped the rack after p2
with Connor Read
dropped the rack after p2
with Connor Read
CRead 1 Jan, 2017 AltLd dnf Got to the belay above pitch 1, all was going well. Whilst sorting gear Harry dropped the bandolier with 3/4 of the rack attached and that was the end of that! Didn't have time to start again, we'll be back...
Got to the belay above pitch 1, all was going well. Whilst sorting gear Harry dropped the bandolier with 3/4 of the rack attached and that was the end of that! Didn't have time to start again, we'll be back...
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
rob16 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 16 Jan, 2016 AltLd dnf Backed off 2nd pitch. Crack was full of powder and verglassed. Not able to get gear I was happy with for the top bulge. Sketchy down climb back to the belay and abbed off.
with Matt Nuttall
Backed off 2nd pitch. Crack was full of powder and verglassed. Not able to get gear I was happy with for the top bulge. Sketchy down climb back to the belay and abbed off.
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 16 Jan, 2016 AltLd dnf Hard in the conditions... Not enough ice to climb but enough to make cams unusable plus a heavy coat of powder rendering pitch two a death trap... Andy reverses 30feet of unprotected steep hard ground facing a nasty fall onto my belay on pitch two and we opted for Thompson's route
Hard in the conditions... Not enough ice to climb but enough to make cams unusable plus a heavy coat of powder rendering pitch two a death trap... Andy reverses 30feet of unprotected steep hard ground facing a nasty fall onto my belay on pitch two and we opted for Thompson's route
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
The Grist 12 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Memorable route. I led the short first pitch and the 3rd pitch (guide book crux). On the day the 2nd and 4th pitches were the hardest. Good leads by Misha.
with Misha
Memorable route. I led the short first pitch and the 3rd pitch (guide book crux). On the day the 2nd and 4th pitches were the hardest. Good leads by Misha.
with Misha
Misha 12 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Great weather, great (but tough) conditions, great route! Pretty much perfect early season conditions, which is to say the gear and hooks weren't hard to find but there was little decent neve and no ice to speak of, so the second and last pitches were solid VI 6 and proved to be the hardest. Mark led the short flake pitch. I did the second, moving right onto the gargoyle after the initial groove eased off, then going straight up and slightly right to a ledge below the shattered corner. Mark did the corner and steep wall above to the ledge. The wall was VI 6 with some less than perfect hooks between good hooks and feet but significantly easier than the second and last pitches. I took the chimney crack direct all the way to the top (including a 5 metre step above the ledge where you're meant to go right). Think doing it that way is tr top pitch of Hobgoblin. Tricky in places with some good but spaced gear. Topped out just as the light was fading, Mark seconded by head torch. 2.5hrs top car park to starting the route (thanks to the Sioux Wall team for tracking in fresh snow!), just over 7 for the route, 2 back down via Number 4. How it should be!
Great weather, great (but tough) conditions, great route! Pretty much perfect early season conditions, which is to say the gear and hooks weren't hard to find but there was little decent neve and no ice to speak of, so the second and last pitches were solid VI 6 and proved to be the hardest. Mark led the short flake pitch. I did the second, moving right onto the gargoyle after the initial groove eased off, then going straight up and slightly right to a ledge below the shattered corner. Mark did the corner and steep wall above to the ledge. The wall was VI 6 with some less than perfect hooks between good hooks and feet but significantly easier than the second and last pitches. I took the chimney crack direct all the way to the top (including a 5 metre step above the ledge where you're meant to go right). Think doing it that way is tr top pitch of Hobgoblin. Tricky in places with some good but spaced gear. Topped out just as the light was fading, Mark seconded by head torch. 2.5hrs top car park to starting the route (thanks to the Sioux Wall team for tracking in fresh snow!), just over 7 for the route, 2 back down via Number 4. How it should be!
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 2nd
elliptic 21 Mar, 2015 AltLd
with Huw
with Huw
alexm198 18 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Started direct up the thinly iced corner. In 3 pitches, lead P2 consisting of the traverse and the crux wall. Utterly brilliant climb, one of the best days out I've had on the Ben.
with Frazer
Started direct up the thinly iced corner. In 3 pitches, lead P2 consisting of the traverse and the crux wall. Utterly brilliant climb, one of the best days out I've had on the Ben.
with Frazer
Brian Pollock 17 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Brilliant atmospheric route. Done in 3 pitches. Led 1 and 3.
with Craig
Brilliant atmospheric route. Done in 3 pitches. Led 1 and 3.
with Craig
eaf4 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S First Grade 6! Did crux pitch (crack).
with AmyG, Brian Shackleton
First Grade 6! Did crux pitch (crack).
with AmyG, Brian Shackleton
AmyG 14 Mar, 2015 AltLd Started direct, led pitch 1&2 together, Brian led traverse, Euan crux, then back to me
Started direct, led pitch 1&2 together, Brian led traverse, Euan crux, then back to me
akhughes 10 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Work. Super icy.
Work. Super icy.
The Bad Cough 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
John sealey 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jan, 2015 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??, 2015 -
Uisdean hawthorn 18 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Dad
with Dad
robpartridge 14 Jan, 2014 AltLd
robpartridge 12 Jan, 2014 Lead dnf Lots of frozen snow on the rock, v.hard to find gear, and no decent ice. Made it to belay below crux pitch in the dark, then abbed off.
with Johnny Harris
Lots of frozen snow on the rock, v.hard to find gear, and no decent ice. Made it to belay below crux pitch in the dark, then abbed off.
with Johnny Harris
masa-alpin 9 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Approached from the right (Sake) with my lead, Dave lead the crux, and I lead the last pitch to the left. Hoared up extremely.
Approached from the right (Sake) with my lead, Dave lead the crux, and I lead the last pitch to the left. Hoared up extremely.
Dave Almond 9 Jan, 2014 AltLd Hoared up completely so very few placements for gear.
with Masa-Alpin
Hoared up completely so very few placements for gear.
with Masa-Alpin
Greg Boswell ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
Paul Figg 12 Jan, 2013 AltLd Great route done with Lawrence Monckton. Great crux pitch, safe but technical.
Great route done with Lawrence Monckton. Great crux pitch, safe but technical.
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 AltLd
D.Russell 1 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Nov, 2012 -
tjmillen 25 Feb, 2012 AltLd
edmitchell 24 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S In very lean condition.
In very lean condition.
Adam Booth 24 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S 3 pitches. Picks out some great lines on the cliff, but as a consequence weaves around a lot and isn't at all direct.
3 pitches. Picks out some great lines on the cliff, but as a consequence weaves around a lot and isn't at all direct.
TeeBee 14 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ?Feb, 2012 AltLd
Fatherof2 15 Jan, 2012 - Good all the way
with Roger
Good all the way
with Roger
Hidden 14 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Jack Loftus 5 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead 3rd pitch.
Lead 3rd pitch.
GraMc 5 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S i was an idiot and forgot to bring the hexes!!, did the first pitch of babylon but then bailed onto this as we wernt keen on running it out! good consolation route tho, great crux pitch with slightly bold top pitch
with jack, nick micheal
i was an idiot and forgot to bring the hexes!!, did the first pitch of babylon but then bailed onto this as we wernt keen on running it out! good consolation route tho, great crux pitch with slightly bold top pitch
with jack, nick micheal
Hidden 5 Jan, 2012 2nd
adie84 ??, 2012 -
samrad 21 Feb, 2011 AltLd dnf Mega hoar frost!! could not find gear. wussed out under chockstone on pitch 2 :(
with tom livingstone
Mega hoar frost!! could not find gear. wussed out under chockstone on pitch 2 :(
with tom livingstone
Hidden 15 Dec, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 4 Dec, 2010 Lead
Alco-nomic 1 Dec, 2010 2nd exellent lead from conan in adverse weather, a must do route,well protected but sustained
with conan
exellent lead from conan in adverse weather, a must do route,well protected but sustained
with conan
Tom Livingstone ?Dec, 2010 AltLd dnf
Hidden 20 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 AltLd dnf
hwackerhage 17 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S Hard as it was all covered with large amounts of rime.
with James
Hard as it was all covered with large amounts of rime.
with James
sgl 1 Mar, 2009 2nd rpt
with Es and Jeff
with Es and Jeff
Hidden ?Mar, 2009 AltLd
simon_D 14 Dec, 2008 2nd O/S Neil led the direct start which was good fun, never made it to the cracks so have to return for a rematch!
with Neil Silver
Neil led the direct start which was good fun, never made it to the cracks so have to return for a rematch!
with Neil Silver
decs 10 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Kiwi Steve and Mike
with Kiwi Steve and Mike
mikecopp 10 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S
with Duncan S, Kiwi steve
with Duncan S, Kiwi steve
Neil Adams 1 Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S Very good route. Probably slightly easier (and better?) with ice but it was doable under powder & rime conditions.
Very good route. Probably slightly easier (and better?) with ice but it was doable under powder & rime conditions.
Alasdair Fulton 1 Nov, 2008 AltLd Nice early season route. Even got to watch the third ascent of "The Secret". Good smooth leading by Tony Stone on the crux pitch!
Nice early season route. Even got to watch the third ascent of "The Secret". Good smooth leading by Tony Stone on the crux pitch!
Pete Graham 13 Apr, 2008 AltLd
with malx
with malx
Hidden 9 Mar, 2008 AltLd
smac ??, 2008 -
Hidden 10 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
sgl 10 Dec, 2007 AltLd
with Konnie
with Konnie
Robbie H 9 Mar, 2006 2nd Guided ascent. Hard to find pro in cracks pitch (iced up)
with Richard Bentley
Guided ascent. Hard to find pro in cracks pitch (iced up)
with Richard Bentley
Nick Wallis ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
a_hein ?Dec, 2003 AltLd dnf traversed out after first difficult pitch
traversed out after first difficult pitch
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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 20
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set