UKC

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter, The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Chasing the Ephemeral.


ClimberDateStyle
geoff b 27/Mar AltLd

What a sustained route & poorly protected in places (P1 & P4). Gaz took the glory & led all the hard pitches: a great effort considering how much ice there was obscuring the cracks & how little there was for the picks, not to mention the deteriorating weather!

with Gaz D
lanky ?/Mar AltLd

Very iced up, linked 1 and 2 got one bit of gear. Led the cracks and got one piece. Would of been better with stubbies.

with Sharpey
ferdia 21/Feb AltLd G/U

very icy - difficult to protect without a lot of peckers/terriers etc. solid effort by andy on all the consequently bold bits. i did the cracks pitch - much more my scene.

Andy Moles 21/Feb AltLd

Plenty of ice, not a lot of good gear.

with ferdia
Hidden 26/Jan AltLd O/S
davkeo 26/Jan AltLd O/S

Been wanting to do this one since first seeing it 3 years ago. It proved to be a much different experience than anticipated. On the day it was a thin ice climb with cracks heavily iced & gear practically non existent (at least on my pitches). I linked 1&2 to belay at the top of the snowy bay. A serious pitch with 4 pieces of pro placed & the top 2 of them being almost pointless. Felt very worrying pulling up & over the bulge but thankfully there was decent neve/ice to be had. Tim did p2 up to below the cracks. Good climbing. Although short, the cracks pitch was fully engaging & once again, gear was sparse. Got a good nut above the belay and 2 shite hexes after that. Also missed an insitu peg (which Tim later told me about) that would have been very welcome indeed before the final pullover. Tim took us to the top from there to make 4 good absorbing pitches. Keen to go back and do this as a snowed up rock route where I'd expect a completely contrasting outing.

Jamie Skelton 11/Jan AltLd O/S
with Jack Morris
Andrew Wilson 28/Dec/17 AltLd

Started up Babylon which was our original intention. 1st pitch quite loose, a large flake came off and chopped one of our ropes. After the cracks pitch we opted to finish up GW instead of finishing Babylon.

mattnuttall 28/Dec/17 AltLd rpt

Fresh snow made approach bit tricky. Unhelpful powder. Started Babylon but dislodged a flake on first pitch hidden in unhelpful powder and cut clean through one rope. Carried on to do gargoyle wall cracks and opted for gargoyle wall finish... will come back for Babylon which looks excellent. Conditions suit snowed up rock. Good choice. Across the gully a strong party climbed the Secret. Impressive to watch.

Hidden 09/Dec/17 AltLd
Hidden 25/Apr/17 Lead O/S
seanhendo123 25/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant day, hard climbing in full on conditions. I lead first and last pitch with craig taking the short traverse (p2) and then the cracks. Verglas made cams very suspect so harder to protect. Excellent route

with Lamb
Hidden 12/Feb/17 AltLd
olekemi 05/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

What a fine winter's day on an excellent route. Serious, sustained, and every bit (almost every move) interesting. Many strong climbers around.

with Jeremy M
metrorat 04/Feb/17 AltLd dnf

Cracks verglassed, protection sketchy. Backed off after first pitch

with Euan Maharg
Hidden 28/Jan/17 AltLd
Will_he_fall 28/Jan/17 AltLd
harry_lewis 28/Jan/17 AltLd rpt

take 2 - sick route, quality climbing on every pitch

with Connor Read
CRead 28/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Settled unfinished business! Led pitches 2 and 4, claiming O/S since I didn't get to my pitches last time....pretty loose I have to say!

harry_lewis 01/Jan/17 AltLd dnf

dropped the rack after p2

with Connor Read
CRead 01/Jan/17 AltLd dnf

Got to the belay above pitch 1, all was going well. Whilst sorting gear Harry dropped the bandolier with 3/4 of the rack attached and that was the end of that! Didn't have time to start again, we'll be back...

Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
rob16 19/Nov/16 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 16/Jan/16 AltLd dnf

Backed off 2nd pitch. Crack was full of powder and verglassed. Not able to get gear I was happy with for the top bulge. Sketchy down climb back to the belay and abbed off.

with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 16/Jan/16 AltLd dnf

Hard in the conditions... Not enough ice to climb but enough to make cams unusable plus a heavy coat of powder rendering pitch two a death trap... Andy reverses 30feet of unprotected steep hard ground facing a nasty fall onto my belay on pitch two and we opted for Thompson's route

mountain musher ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
The Grist 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Memorable route. I led the short first pitch and the 3rd pitch (guide book crux). On the day the 2nd and 4th pitches were the hardest. Good leads by Misha.

with Misha
Misha 12/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Great weather, great (but tough) conditions, great route! Pretty much perfect early season conditions, which is to say the gear and hooks weren't hard to find but there was little decent neve and no ice to speak of, so the second and last pitches were solid VI 6 and proved to be the hardest. Mark led the short flake pitch. I did the second, moving right onto the gargoyle after the initial groove eased off, then going straight up and slightly right to a ledge below the shattered corner. Mark did the corner and steep wall above to the ledge. The wall was VI 6 with some less than perfect hooks between good hooks and feet but significantly easier than the second and last pitches. I took the chimney crack direct all the way to the top (including a 5 metre step above the ledge where you're meant to go right). Think doing it that way is tr top pitch of Hobgoblin. Tricky in places with some good but spaced gear. Topped out just as the light was fading, Mark seconded by head torch. 2.5hrs top car park to starting the route (thanks to the Sioux Wall team for tracking in fresh snow!), just over 7 for the route, 2 back down via Number 4. How it should be!

Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd
elliptic 21/Mar/15 AltLd
with Huw
alexm198 18/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Started direct up the thinly iced corner. In 3 pitches, lead P2 consisting of the traverse and the crux wall. Utterly brilliant climb, one of the best days out I've had on the Ben.

with Frazer
Brian Pollock 17/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Brilliant atmospheric route. Done in 3 pitches. Led 1 and 3.

with Craig
eaf4 14/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

First Grade 6! Did crux pitch (crack).

with AmyG, Brian Shackleton
AmyG 14/Mar/15 AltLd

Started direct, led pitch 1&2 together, Brian led traverse, Euan crux, then back to me

akhughes 10/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Work. Super icy.

The Bad Cough 21/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
John sealey 21/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jan/15 AltLd
Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Uisdean hawthorn 18/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Dad
robpartridge 14/Jan/14 AltLd
robpartridge 12/Jan/14 Lead dnf

Lots of frozen snow on the rock, v.hard to find gear, and no decent ice. Made it to belay below crux pitch in the dark, then abbed off.

with Johnny Harris
masa-alpin 09/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Approached from the right (Sake) with my lead, Dave lead the crux, and I lead the last pitch to the left. Hoared up extremely.

Dave Almond 09/Jan/14 AltLd

Hoared up completely so very few placements for gear.

with Masa-Alpin
Paul Figg 12/Jan/13 AltLd

Great route done with Lawrence Monckton. Great crux pitch, safe but technical.

Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
D.Russell 01/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Nov/12 -
tjmillen 25/Feb/12 AltLd
edmitchell 24/Feb/12 2nd O/S

In very lean condition.

Adam Booth 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S

3 pitches. Picks out some great lines on the cliff, but as a consequence weaves around a lot and isn't at all direct.

TeeBee 14/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd
Fatherof2 15/Jan/12 -

Good all the way

with Roger
Hidden 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Jack Loftus 05/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 3rd pitch.

GraMc 05/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

i was an idiot and forgot to bring the hexes!!, did the first pitch of babylon but then bailed onto this as we wernt keen on running it out! good consolation route tho, great crux pitch with slightly bold top pitch

with jack, nick micheal
Hidden 05/Jan/12 2nd
adie84 ??/2012 -
samrad 21/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Mega hoar frost!! could not find gear. wussed out under chockstone on pitch 2 :(

with tom livingstone
Hidden 15/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 04/Dec/10 Lead
Alco-nomic 01/Dec/10 2nd

exellent lead from conan in adverse weather, a must do route,well protected but sustained

with conan
Tom Livingstone ?/Dec/10 AltLd dnf
Hidden 20/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd dnf
hwackerhage 17/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

Hard as it was all covered with large amounts of rime.

with James
sgl 01/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Es and Jeff
Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd
simon_D 14/Dec/08 2nd O/S

Neil led the direct start which was good fun, never made it to the cracks so have to return for a rematch!

with Neil Silver
decs 10/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
with Kiwi Steve and Mike
mikecopp 10/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Duncan S, Kiwi steve
Neil Adams 01/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Very good route. Probably slightly easier (and better?) with ice but it was doable under powder & rime conditions.

Alasdair Fulton 01/Nov/08 AltLd

Nice early season route. Even got to watch the third ascent of "The Secret". Good smooth leading by Tony Stone on the crux pitch!

Pete Graham 13/Apr/08 AltLd
with malx
smac ??/2008 -
Hidden 10/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
sgl 10/Dec/07 AltLd
with Konnie
Robbie H 09/Mar/06 2nd

Guided ascent. Hard to find pro in cracks pitch (iced up)

with Richard Bentley
Nick Wallis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
a_hein ?/Dec/03 AltLd dnf

traversed out after first difficult pitch

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Voting
High VII
Mid VII
Low VII
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 16
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set