Rockfax Description
The deep gully gives a tremendous winter adventure with a desperate section
1) 3, 60m. Climb ice directly below the gully
2) 2, 30m. Follow the snow slope to the gully
3) 3, 25m. Gain the gully via a steep icy section, tough in lean conditions
4) 1, 40m. Follow the snow gully to a cave
5) 5, 45m. Exit the cave direct, or in lean conditions this can be skirted on the left
6) 2, 120m. Romp up the upper gully. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cave pitch rarely climbed direct (requires well banking with snow). Variation pitch traverses L along ledges to arete; up a wide groove to easy groung; then, swing back into gully bed, rejoining above cave

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Misha 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Pete
Monkey_Alan 07/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day! A couple of good ice steps (a touch thin at the top of the first), then easy snow up to the cave. Took the easier variation around the cave (via a very awkward chimney) then mostly easy snow above.

with Seb Lee
cymjt 22/Jan/15 Lead O/S

P2 and 5 then moved together to the top! Conditions just about ok. Lean ice but lots of loose snow. Topped out in darkness. Amazing weather, not a breath of wind and no cloud. 13.5 hour day...

Mr. K 22/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Lean conditions, climbed the alternative pitches to pitch one and the cave pitch. An amazing day out with great weather and good company.

with Dan Lane
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Brannock 06/Apr/13 AltLd

Headed up this after route finding and conditions issues on Gallipoli, I led first ice fall, Ben led over chock stone. Grade III 5? Only two real pitches (1st ice fall and chock stone), chock stone crux hard but safe.

MPSBunny 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Headed up to do Gallipoli, (John lead the initial ice fall) but could decide which grove to take for the third pitch and when a big chunk of ice peeled off the rock when John tried to move off the belay made the decision for us and we abseiled off a gold Black Diamond hex into Central Gully. John lead a snow pitch in the gully and I took the lead over the large chockstone. Was an absolute beast requiring some bridging on a tiny ledge and turf. Thank god for a well placed hex and dodgy bulldog. Belayed off two warthogs and we swung leads until John topped out. The crux moves were harder than the grades on UKC!

Lxaddison 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Snow not in great condition due to now thaw and refreeze. Swam up the snow in the gulley to where we thought the cave was meant to be... Cave not found, climbed left of large snow banking as impossible to pass in conditions, dry tooled up a steep corner, extremely tough (~V 6??). Finished up more snow, slightly better formed. Great mountain day though.

with Paul Addison
Mr-Cowdrey 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

So much snow!! the cave pitch was fully banked out with snow, we couldn't even get to it! so we took an alternative. the 3 grooves to the left. we climbed the furthest groove left and it felt about V 6. axe ripped from a placement but leash from the other axe held my fall!

with chris ridgers
Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
geoff b 08/Dec/12 AltLd

We had to do the 'mixed' variation of this due to inadequate ice. This involves soloing turfy ledges at II to avoid the lack of ice on P1, a traverse under the gully & then ascent of a thin groove line to the left of the normal route at 4/5, the romp up the gully & a new finish up a thin line of grooves ('Petit Blanc' finish) at III. See Welsh Winter wiki for details & topo.

with Chris P
BenRyle 05/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

1st Pitch wasn't in so a crappy alternative was done instead. Awesome route though :)

with Gunz
Tom Seccombe 05/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with BenRyle
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hardonicus 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex Thompson
Hidden 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Alternate lead (P1 lead by Graeme). The crux was not in condition, so we took the alternative way to the left (Graeme attempted to lead the second half of the crux pitch, namely the open groove, but backed off after a few metres by being lowered down, then I took over the lead using two pieces of gear left by him). Then we moved together to the top, where wading through the waist-deep powder snow was a labour... (and it snowed all day with almost no break). The ice in P1 was thick, accepting some screws, though melting rapidly on this day. It turned out to be a big and tiring, but enjoyable day.

gb83 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

i lead p1 with reasonable ice, masa p2. the crux cave pitch is nowhere near in condition so took the left traverse onto the arete up the groove (masa lead after i backed off) move together on final pitches to summit. lots of snow but not consolidated so made for very difficult progression. top out in the dark

with masa
Hidden 20/Feb/10 -
Adam Booth 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S

No snow in cave pitch - climbed direct on patches of turf / mixed. Awesome pitch, nearly lobbed!

Hidden 13/Feb/10 2nd
3kidsandanorton 02/Jan/10 2nd

Miserable conditions but enjoyed the first ice pitch

with Diccon Proctor, Pete Templar
John sealey 02/Jan/10 Lead
The Bad Cough 02/Jan/10 2nd

Knee deep powder for most of route, poor conditions and cave pitch not in

nicholas Barrowclough 19/Mar/06 Solo O/S

Nice solo on a lovely day on the black ladders.

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?/Feb/91 AltLd
with Andy W
Tim Sparrow ??/1986 -
neilh 19/Jan/85 Solo O/S
nigehughes ?/Jan/84 AltLd
with Ian Cameron
charlesmfrench 01/Jan/82 AltLd O/S


charlesmfrench 01/Jan/82 AltLd O/S


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