Rockfax Description
Quality wall climbing with a frustrating crux and perhaps the best move on the wall. Moving into Strange Little Girl at the break gives a decent 6c. © Rockfax

G.Gibson, R.Thomas 07/Apr/1996

Ticklists

South Wales Sevens, Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
willj 22 Jun Lead RP A long time coming. TJ’s magic foot beta bagged it.
A long time coming. TJ’s magic foot beta bagged it.
Billg 20 Jun Lead rpt Retro flash. Dont really understand this being given 7b . 1 hard rock over using the pocket after a 6c lower section. ....?Great route tho
with Becky Athay
Retro flash. Dont really understand this being given 7b . 1 hard rock over using the pocket after a 6c lower section. ....?Great route tho
with Becky Athay
Hidden 27 May Lead RP
Von T 19 May Lead RP 2nd try. Steady but super fun climbing and then one big move.
2nd try. Steady but super fun climbing and then one big move.
josh baldwin 18 May Lead RP
naked ape 10 May Lead dog Very good route. Steady up to crux. Couldn't find way to do big move off the pocket. 4 inches short of sloper.
Very good route. Steady up to crux. Couldn't find way to do big move off the pocket. 4 inches short of sloper.
Chops 20 Apr Lead dog Ended up too far right at the crux
Ended up too far right at the crux
Kev Little 14 Apr Lead RP
with aiyer
with aiyer
rafaelfordgonzalez 1 Apr Lead RP
Billg 7 Sep, 2018 Lead RP retro flash 7a+
with Timm Oertel, PhoebeG
retro flash 7a+
with Timm Oertel, PhoebeG
Ricky Rocks 1 Sep, 2018 Lead
valecoastclimber 28 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Apparently hangovers last 2 days once you reach 30!
Apparently hangovers last 2 days once you reach 30!
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 Lead β
anthony henry 26 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Aug, 2018 Lead β
chrisscutt 4 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Wayne.Gaudin 6 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Lower section nailed. One move wonder makes it 7b. Used the pocket as a side pull with two stacked fingers and stepped through high and wide with the left foot. Might latch the sloper this way when fresh.
Lower section nailed. One move wonder makes it 7b. Used the pocket as a side pull with two stacked fingers and stepped through high and wide with the left foot. Might latch the sloper this way when fresh.
Petar Samkov 5 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Pffff .. that move for the sloper ain’t joke !
Pffff .. that move for the sloper ain’t joke !
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 TR dnf
james n 1 Jul, 2018 Lead RP 7b version right of the peg from the pocket to the sloper
with Lisa P
7b version right of the peg from the pocket to the sloper
with Lisa P
Wayne.Gaudin 26 Jun, 2018 TR dog First feel on TR. Lower section seems great and not a giveaway but the grade comes in the move from the pocket to the sloper ledge. Very compressed with high feet if pulling down on the finger pocket. Try the undercut version next time.
First feel on TR. Lower section seems great and not a giveaway but the grade comes in the move from the pocket to the sloper ledge. Very compressed with high feet if pulling down on the finger pocket. Try the undercut version next time.
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
ericinbristol 5 Jun, 2018 Lead RP RP2 after refining sequence. Did the 7a+ version up the crimps left of the peg. The 7b version using the pocket right of the peg is too reachy for me.
with vertigo
RP2 after refining sequence. Did the 7a+ version up the crimps left of the peg. The 7b version using the pocket right of the peg is too reachy for me.
with vertigo
Stroppy 3 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Couldn't get the crux move
Couldn't get the crux move
Tomar 22 Apr, 2018 Lead dog A couple of goes, almost stuck the long move from the pocket (the proper way) but didn't latch the sloper. Next time. Cool moves.
with OliBee
A couple of goes, almost stuck the long move from the pocket (the proper way) but didn't latch the sloper. Next time. Cool moves.
with OliBee
Pippa 5 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
with afrosam
with afrosam
afrosam 5 Nov, 2017 Lead rpt RH way
with Pippa
RH way
with Pippa
Droyd 15 Oct, 2017 TR Easy then v hard
with Rory Smith
Easy then v hard
with Rory Smith
julesmckim 22 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Second go. 2nd 7b! Nervous during the onsight attempt and didn't set the crimp before turning grip on the pocket. Steady lower two thirds and then a brilliant sequence through the blank section.
with Rob Smart
Second go. 2nd 7b! Nervous during the onsight attempt and didn't set the crimp before turning grip on the pocket. Steady lower two thirds and then a brilliant sequence through the blank section.
with Rob Smart
aiyer 1 Sep, 2017 Lead dog So close...
with k_k
So close...
with k_k
vickydavies 1 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Amazing climb- worked out the 7a+ variation on the left through the crux.
with Ruth King
Amazing climb- worked out the 7a+ variation on the left through the crux.
with Ruth King
Lilypopskeal 28 Aug, 2017 TR dnf crimps on left would go, right hand pocket move...I'm not so sure...At 5ft7 I'm pretty average height, I could reach the bottom of the slopy hold that I'd need to latch. hmmm dyno?
with Ash
crimps on left would go, right hand pocket move...I'm not so sure...At 5ft7 I'm pretty average height, I could reach the bottom of the slopy hold that I'd need to latch. hmmm dyno?
with Ash
Dan Jenkin 26 Aug, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go
with Frances Haden, Rich Jenkin, Gordon Jenkin
2nd go
with Frances Haden, Rich Jenkin, Gordon Jenkin
Hidden 30 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Tom92 25 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hugobristol 18 Jul, 2017 Lead RP frustrating!
with EC
frustrating!
with EC
ericinbristol 11 Jul, 2017 Lead dog I got to the peg and finished with it just to my right (which fits the Rockfax topo). That's the natural line. Traversing right to seek out a hard move seems really artificial. Very tired from a hard day climbing the previous day. Almost got it first RP the way I tried it (which felt more like 7a+)
I got to the peg and finished with it just to my right (which fits the Rockfax topo). That's the natural line. Traversing right to seek out a hard move seems really artificial. Very tired from a hard day climbing the previous day. Almost got it first RP the way I tried it (which felt more like 7a+)
afrosam 8 Jul, 2017 Lead RP LH finish, 7a+ ish
LH finish, 7a+ ish
chris85 ?Jul, 2017 Lead RP Finished off left on the crimps, not sure if this was in but felt more like 7a+
Finished off left on the crimps, not sure if this was in but felt more like 7a+
chris85 ?Jul, 2017 Lead dog Finishing left is very doable though really only 7a+, cant stick the move from the pocket out right and is probs he 7b version
Finishing left is very doable though really only 7a+, cant stick the move from the pocket out right and is probs he 7b version
Rockmonkey1977 24 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Very fingery if moving left and a big/tricky move if going right... one for another day!
Very fingery if moving left and a big/tricky move if going right... one for another day!
Ian Bell 24 Jun, 2017 Lead dog 3 goes. Pretty close to doing it going left on the dirty crimps. Not sure it's really 7b that way, maybe 7a+? Lower wall is really nice.
3 goes. Pretty close to doing it going left on the dirty crimps. Not sure it's really 7b that way, maybe 7a+? Lower wall is really nice.
Hidden 10 May, 2017 Lead RP
Nick.R_108 10 May, 2017 TR dnf Was only suppose to try the start and found my self floating up to the crux move where I became unstuck.
Was only suppose to try the start and found my self floating up to the crux move where I became unstuck.
tobydunford 6 May, 2017 Lead RP
with Jamie T
with Jamie T
W d c ??, 2017 Lead RP Soft. Very soft. Desperate if short though.
with Dan Cook
Soft. Very soft. Desperate if short though.
with Dan Cook
blaza1 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Great route
with Raf
Great route
with Raf
wilchivs 16 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Ugh, that move, again! Worked it to remember the sequence and found a dyno that works but couldn't link it all with the little remaining energy I had. Next time...
Ugh, that move, again! Worked it to remember the sequence and found a dyno that works but couldn't link it all with the little remaining energy I had. Next time...
MathewWright1998 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Chuffed to had onsighted this.
with Giles Davis
Chuffed to had onsighted this.
with Giles Davis
Hidden 13 May, 2016 Lead RP
Carl Watkins 2 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Neil
with Neil
Carl Watkins 22 Mar, 2016 Lead dog
caradogr 17 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with Virgil
with Virgil
dannygale 17 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with simo
with simo
wilchivs 12 Aug, 2015 TR dog Got the crux move after practice - back for the lead next time!
Got the crux move after practice - back for the lead next time!
Max Lowry 8 Aug, 2015 Lead RP One big move :)
with KeriV
One big move :)
with KeriV
yan hawkins 1 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with mikey j
with mikey j
cornishben 15 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
DorsetGareth 15 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Went first redpoint this session, having had a good go a couple of months ago. Much better with the pocket!
Went first redpoint this session, having had a good go a couple of months ago. Much better with the pocket!
hankyc 22 Jun, 2015 Lead RP so close to onsight tickling the sloper on the BIG move
so close to onsight tickling the sloper on the BIG move
tommccluskey 17 Jun, 2015 Lead RP 1st RP after failing last year due to lack of fitness. Good route!
with Tomas P
1st RP after failing last year due to lack of fitness. Good route!
with Tomas P
Billg 11 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Neil Cox, devo
with Neil Cox, devo
Billg 31 May, 2015 Lead rpt
with Nik Goile
with Nik Goile
Wise 23 May, 2015 Lead RP
DorsetGareth 23 May, 2015 Lead dog Wouldn't quite go in one, but was using crimp out left rather than pocket. Perhaps I need to return to try again with the pocket.
with Wise
Wouldn't quite go in one, but was using crimp out left rather than pocket. Perhaps I need to return to try again with the pocket.
with Wise
mdecoleman 25 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
dannygale 20 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
with simo
with simo
_m.cox_ 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Tomas P 9 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Worked it during a quick evening session. Good climb!
Worked it during a quick evening session. Good climb!
imogen.fish 15 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
afrosam 3 Aug, 2014 Lead dog next time...
with DaveX
next time...
with DaveX
Garrouli 20 Jul, 2014 Lead RP One move wonder and a reachy one at that!
with Ioanna
One move wonder and a reachy one at that!
with Ioanna
Hidden 15 Jul, 2014 -
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 TR dnf
bpmclimb 21 Apr, 2014 TR dnf Couldn't work out the crux.
with hms
Couldn't work out the crux.
with hms
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 TR dnf
Stone Muppet 4 Jul, 2013 TR dog
with sb
with sb
richardr 16 May, 2012 Lead RP Very cruxy, the lower wall is really good. V hard crux move.
with Dave, Billg, bluesharper
Very cruxy, the lower wall is really good. V hard crux move.
with Dave, Billg, bluesharper
Billg 9 Aug, 2011 Lead RP
richsmithinbristol 21 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
DafSWMC 12 Apr, 2011 Lead RP I think it's safe to say that this is not a reachy route. First session back on this route since my finger injury.
with gejones
I think it's safe to say that this is not a reachy route. First session back on this route since my finger injury.
with gejones
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead RP
Cowflinger 17 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
with Dai Morris
with Dai Morris
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
gejones 13 Oct, 2009 Lead RP Shorties don't be put off! the huge reach isn't so bad if you make good use of the pocket, a span of 5'3" is plenty.
with DafSWMC
Shorties don't be put off! the huge reach isn't so bad if you make good use of the pocket, a span of 5'3" is plenty.
with DafSWMC
Mikeyped ?Apr, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead
onlytovey ?Jul, 2007 TR dog rested before crux move
rested before crux move
Hidden 17 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 4 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
Billg ??, 2003 Lead RP
bettypastie ??, 2000 -
goi.ashmore 11 Apr, 1996 Lead RP Second Ascent
with James Tracey
Second Ascent
with James Tracey
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set