Rockfax Description
The best line on the wall, and a total pumpfest. Start near the centre of the wall at the large flake. Climb up to a bolt on the left and then another on the right. Move back left to get stood in the 'Chipadeedoodah' hold. Layback strenuously to gain a jug/small ledge, then continue up the groove/small corner, passing a number of bolts, to reach a small roof. Boldly climb the 6m run-out to the next bolt then move right into a groove and summon up all your reserves for the final headwall! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
one of the best routes on slate, a must for every slatehead.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

harry_lewis 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

banging - ignored the guidebook's advice not to do it when it's seeping, upped the spice factor

nathanlee 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant! So good and not over till youre rigjt at the top. Carried a full rack just for training

with Bubbles, Heather
HeatherF 01/Jun/17 2nd β
with Nathan
JamesWilliams 10/May/17 Lead G/U

Fell off the hard move going left first go then got back on and swiftly solved it via an all points off dyno! Excellent sustained climbing with a cheeky little bit to get on the ledge nearly peeled of the mantle! Too bits no pushover either. Didn't take any gear just draws. And luckily it was all dry!!

with Trystan Lowe
JRJones 08/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Spanked. Bailed before the runout

Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 16/Jun/15 2nd dog
geoff b 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Demon slain: I fell off the initial layback last year, when I got my feet caught in the ropes and broke a rib a result! This year it was a clean flash despite the initial surge of fear. The crux was the tricky move in the groove at 2/3 height but the penultimate moves weren't easy.

BRoe 14/Jun/15 Lead
MarkRoe 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Possibly one of the best routes I think I've ever climbed. Glad to get it clean, even if only on the second.

with Ben Roe
Hidden 15/May/15 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15/May/15 2nd rpt
with Max (France)
Hidden ??/2015 -
tim newton 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Found it hard, reachy and scary. A couple of wet holds too.

Mattlamb90 20/Jul/14 2nd β

Found most of the clips awkward as shit. Hard

with Ryan
C coldwell-storry 05/Jun/14 Lead

Robbed of the OS 6 years ago because of wet top grove. Dry today :) fantastic route.

with Neil Chelton
brices 31/Aug/13 Lead dnf

wet holds near top scuppered my way

Julian Cooper 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ben Steel
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
andyinglis 24/May/13 Lead dog

Fell (twice) at the upper crux, so close! Great route!

with Steve Addy
Russell Birkett 23/May/13 Lead O/S

Very good route. Long and sustained

Dangerous Dave 23/May/13 Lead

Ground up, fell off at first bolt, got it 2nd go. Amazing route

Alice Thompson 22/May/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 22/May/13 2nd rpt
with alice thompson
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Nickc ??/2013 -
Nickc ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
fennerz 07/Sep/12 Lead dnf


The Grist 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

Almost got it but fell on the crux high up.The wall was slightly dirty for feet. I still got to the top after the fall.

Bob ??/2012 -
markalmack 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with james marjot
david morse 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

An excellent route!

with lole
phil64 ?/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Ram MkiV 25/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Great climbing all the way, bit damp but ok until unfortunately got stopped by a wet hold right at the top. Can't wait to get to the top on this and other routes on the wall next time.

with Mike G
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ally Smith 16/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 29/May/10 Lead O/S
with michael porter
morganator 28/May/10 2nd dog
with Ross Hewitt, Andy Houseman
pete johnson 26/May/10 Lead rpt
Rich Kirby 02/May/10 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable. Perhaps the best slate route I've done.

with Kev
Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Frank Ramsey
centurion05 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt

awesome, crux at top and bottom, take 12 drawers and one size gold offset!

with dave g
barni 27/Apr/10 2nd
with luke
Luke Brooks 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Barni
Alex Mason 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Sweet, crux at start and hard moves up top but 5b/c most of the way. 6c.

with Ben alsford
Hidden 01/Jan/10 Lead O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead
with patch
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
metal arms 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
feilx 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Angus
datoon 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with K
Mike Goldthorp 24/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
harvie 20/Mar/09 Lead
RossG123 ?/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
gregoritos 25/May/08 Lead O/S
with chris gooder
lukea 24/May/08 Lead O/S

awesome extended adventure

with dan
morganator 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Robinson
IOAN D 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with katy
mr mills ?/May/08 Lead O/S

classic slate climbing, nice long pitch and the crux near the top just when you think youv`e bagged it !

with ioan d
Julian Wedd ??/2008 2nd
with A. Howarth
Boy ??/2008 -
Ed Booth 08/Apr/07 Lead

I wish i could have had the stamina to get this route clean, cause none of the moves were that hard, it was just the bloody lactic acid in my forearms that mean't i took 2 falls.

with Roel Driesen
middlevern 03/Apr/07 2nd
Toby Dunn 03/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
JulesV ??/2007 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
akhughes ??/2006 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Gus 20/Jun/04 Lead O/S
lukea 13/Jun/04 TR O/S
with Al
Mark Kemball 12/Jul/03 Lead
with Nic Dill
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/02 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
DJonsight ??/2000 -
Mark Riley ?/May/99 Lead rpt
with Vicky Heywood
ste_d 12/Apr/98 2nd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 12/Apr/98 Lead O/S
D Tempest 20/Apr/97 2nd
with Rick
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/Apr/97 2nd
with David Pickford
WB ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Nicola
PaulHermes ??/1997 -
Hidden 07/May/95 Lead O/S
Roget 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
mattnuttall ?/Apr/95 Lead
with Alan Holden
pete johnson 02/Sep/94 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
crossleysm ?/Aug/94 2nd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Steve Crowe 25/May/91 2nd O/S
andybirtwistle 25/May/91 2nd
mark-abz 06/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Eduardo Martinez 29/May/90 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 2nd
with Dave Barton, Gil
Billg 25/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
ukb & bmc shark ??/1989 Lead O/S

year a guess

Hidden 26/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 2nd
Mike Owen 25/May/87 Lead O/S
with John Peake
Hidden 25/Apr/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1987 AltLd
with Paul Greenland, Nick Dalzell
Hidden 26/Apr/86 Lead
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 22
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set