Rockfax Description
The best line on the wall and a total pump-fest. Start near the centre of the wall at the large flake. Climb up to a bolt on the left and then another on the right. Move back left to get stood in the 'Chipadeedoodah' hold. Layback strenuously to gain a jug/small ledge, then continue up the groove/small corner, passing a number of bolts to reach a small roof. Boldly climb the 6m run-out to the next bolt, then move right into a groove and summon up all your reserves for the final headwall! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
one of the best routes on slate, a must for every slatehead.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Slate 2018/2019, Wales Ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Dan Hale 22 May Lead O/S
George_Surf 22 May Lead O/S Really good route. Solid rock, great moves and it flows really well. Went straight up to the first bolt and in to chipadeedoodah. Techincally essh bit it’s a crux moving in to the groove. Easier above and then a run out section to another bolt. Crux for me was up the groove before the ledge. Long span on two small edges. Rock 4 in the flake, bolt, gold alien and then another hard move going for the small ledge below the top out. Much more solid and better climbing than colossus, don’t take a rack
Really good route. Solid rock, great moves and it flows really well. Went straight up to the first bolt and in to chipadeedoodah. Techincally essh bit it’s a crux moving in to the groove. Easier above and then a run out section to another bolt. Crux for me was up the groove before the ledge. Long span on two small edges. Rock 4 in the flake, bolt, gold alien and then another hard move going for the small ledge below the top out. Much more solid and better climbing than colossus, don’t take a rack
geoff b 17 May 2nd rpt As part of the BMC International meet. He almost blew it on the last moves, which would have been galling, but was otherwise very poised on it. Gardened by me on the second.
with Kyle Stewart
As part of the BMC International meet. He almost blew it on the last moves, which would have been galling, but was otherwise very poised on it. Gardened by me on the second.
with Kyle Stewart
Hidden 21 Apr Lead O/S
ferdia 18 Apr Lead O/S
Andy Moles 18 Apr 2nd Bit too much too soon with a recovering finger injury. A 'total pumpfest' is nonsense, maybe if it's wet.
with ferdia
Bit too much too soon with a recovering finger injury. A 'total pumpfest' is nonsense, maybe if it's wet.
with ferdia
peter.herd 12 Apr Lead
with Kris M
with Kris M
Mike W 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 3 Jun, 2018 Lead β Abseiled down after colossus to have a look at the wetness. Just dry enough. Mike got the second bolt clipped up for me - not up for ground-fall potential.
with Mike W
Abseiled down after colossus to have a look at the wetness. Just dry enough. Mike got the second bolt clipped up for me - not up for ground-fall potential.
with Mike W
LRob 23 May, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
harry_lewis 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S banging - ignored the guidebook's advice not to do it when it's seeping, upped the spice factor
banging - ignored the guidebook's advice not to do it when it's seeping, upped the spice factor
nathanlee 1 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Brilliant! So good and not over till youre rigjt at the top. Carried a full rack just for training
with Bubbles, HeatherF
Brilliant! So good and not over till youre rigjt at the top. Carried a full rack just for training
with Bubbles, HeatherF
HeatherF 1 Jun, 2017 2nd β
JamesWilliams 10 May, 2017 Lead G/U Fell off the hard move going left first go then got back on and swiftly solved it via an all points off dyno! Excellent sustained climbing with a cheeky little bit to get on the ledge nearly peeled of the mantle! Too bits no pushover either. Didn't take any gear just draws. And luckily it was all dry!!
with Trystan Lowe
Fell off the hard move going left first go then got back on and swiftly solved it via an all points off dyno! Excellent sustained climbing with a cheeky little bit to get on the ledge nearly peeled of the mantle! Too bits no pushover either. Didn't take any gear just draws. And luckily it was all dry!!
with Trystan Lowe
JRJones 8 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf Spanked. Bailed before the runout
Spanked. Bailed before the runout
Hidden 19 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2016 2nd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
MikePycroft 16 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Hard
with geoff b
Hard
with geoff b
geoff b 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Demon slain: I fell off the initial layback last year, when I got my feet caught in the ropes and broke a rib a result! This year it was a clean flash despite the initial surge of fear. The crux was the tricky move in the groove at 2/3 height but the penultimate moves weren't easy.
Demon slain: I fell off the initial layback last year, when I got my feet caught in the ropes and broke a rib a result! This year it was a clean flash despite the initial surge of fear. The crux was the tricky move in the groove at 2/3 height but the penultimate moves weren't easy.
BRoe 14 Jun, 2015 Lead
with MarkRoe
with MarkRoe
MarkRoe 14 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Possibly one of the best routes I think I've ever climbed. Glad to get it clean, even if only on the second.
with BRoe
Possibly one of the best routes I think I've ever climbed. Glad to get it clean, even if only on the second.
with BRoe
Hidden 15 May, 2015 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 15 May, 2015 2nd rpt
with Max (France)
with Max (France)
Hidden ??, 2015 -
tim newton 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Found it hard, reachy and scary. A couple of wet holds too.
Found it hard, reachy and scary. A couple of wet holds too.
Mattlamb90 20 Jul, 2014 2nd β Found most of the clips awkward as shit. Hard
with spidey
Found most of the clips awkward as shit. Hard
with spidey
C coldwell-storry 5 Jun, 2014 Lead Robbed of the OS 6 years ago because of wet top grove. Dry today :) fantastic route.
with Neil Chelton
Robbed of the OS 6 years ago because of wet top grove. Dry today :) fantastic route.
with Neil Chelton
brices 31 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf wet holds near top scuppered my way
wet holds near top scuppered my way
Julian Cooper 21 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Ben Steel
with Ben Steel
chris m fisher 26 May, 2013 2nd
with Will
with Will
andyinglis 24 May, 2013 Lead dog Fell (twice) at the upper crux, so close! Great route!
with Steve Addy
Fell (twice) at the upper crux, so close! Great route!
with Steve Addy
Russell Birkett 23 May, 2013 Lead O/S Very good route. Long and sustained
Very good route. Long and sustained
Dangerous Dave 23 May, 2013 Lead Ground up, fell off at first bolt, got it 2nd go. Amazing route
Ground up, fell off at first bolt, got it 2nd go. Amazing route
Alice Thompson 22 May, 2013 Lead O/S
dan gibson 22 May, 2013 2nd rpt
with alice thompson
with alice thompson
Hidden 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Nickc ??, 2013 -
Nickc ??, 2013 -
fennerz 7 Sep, 2012 Lead dnf Dripping...
Dripping...
The Grist 1 Apr, 2012 Lead dog Almost got it but fell on the crux high up.The wall was slightly dirty for feet. I still got to the top after the fall.
Almost got it but fell on the crux high up.The wall was slightly dirty for feet. I still got to the top after the fall.
Bob ??, 2012 -
markalmack 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with james marjot
with james marjot
david morse 16 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S An excellent route!
with lole
An excellent route!
with lole
phil64 ?Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
Ram MkiV 25 Feb, 2011 Lead dnf Great climbing all the way, bit damp but ok until unfortunately got stopped by a wet hold right at the top. Can't wait to get to the top on this and other routes on the wall next time.
with Mike G
Great climbing all the way, bit damp but ok until unfortunately got stopped by a wet hold right at the top. Can't wait to get to the top on this and other routes on the wall next time.
with Mike G
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
phil64 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Ally Smith 16 Oct, 2010 Lead β
with Aly
with Aly
Hidden 16 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2010 2nd O/S
dan gibson 29 May, 2010 Lead O/S
morganator 28 May, 2010 2nd dog
with Ross Hewitt, Andy Houseman
with Ross Hewitt, Andy Houseman
pete johnson 26 May, 2010 Lead rpt
Rich Kirby 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S Very enjoyable. Perhaps the best slate route I've done.
Very enjoyable. Perhaps the best slate route I've done.
Dave Turnbull, BMC 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Frank Ramsey
with Frank Ramsey
centurion05 28 Apr, 2010 Lead rpt awesome, crux at top and bottom, take 12 drawers and one size gold offset!
with dave g
awesome, crux at top and bottom, take 12 drawers and one size gold offset!
with dave g
barni 27 Apr, 2010 2nd
Luke Brooks 27 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with barni
with barni
Alex Mason 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Sweet, crux at start and hard moves up top but 5b/c most of the way. 6c.
with Ben alsford
Sweet, crux at start and hard moves up top but 5b/c most of the way. 6c.
with Ben alsford
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
centurion05 ??, 2010 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd
metal arms 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
feilx 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Angus
with Angus
datoon 29 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with K
with K
Mike Goldthorp 24 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ben Alsford
with Ben Alsford
harvie 20 Mar, 2009 Lead
RossG123 ?Mar, 2009 2nd
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 -
gregoritos 25 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with chris gooder
with chris gooder
lukea 24 May, 2008 Lead O/S awesome extended adventure
with dan
awesome extended adventure
with dan
morganator 18 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mike Robinson
with Mike Robinson
IOAN D 18 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with katy
with katy
mr mills ?May, 2008 Lead O/S classic slate climbing, nice long pitch and the crux near the top just when you think youv`e bagged it !
with ioan d
classic slate climbing, nice long pitch and the crux near the top just when you think youv`e bagged it !
with ioan d
debsb ??, 2008 Lead
with Mat Dickenson
with Mat Dickenson
Julian Wedd ??, 2008 2nd
with A. Howarth
with A. Howarth
Boy ??, 2008 -
Ed Booth 8 Apr, 2007 Lead I wish i could have had the stamina to get this route clean, cause none of the moves were that hard, it was just the bloody lactic acid in my forearms that mean't i took 2 falls.
with Roel Driesen
I wish i could have had the stamina to get this route clean, cause none of the moves were that hard, it was just the bloody lactic acid in my forearms that mean't i took 2 falls.
with Roel Driesen
middlevern 3 Apr, 2007 2nd
Toby Dunn 3 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
with Nick Verney
JulesV ??, 2007 -
jeffmcd56 ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 -
akhughes ??, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Gus 20 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
lukea 13 Jun, 2004 TR O/S
with Al
with Al
Mark Kemball 12 Jul, 2003 Lead
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2002 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
DJonsight ??, 2000 -
Mark Riley ?May, 1999 Lead rpt
with Vicky Heywood
with Vicky Heywood
ste_d 12 Apr, 1998 2nd O/S
Mike_d78 12 Apr, 1998 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
D Tempest 20 Apr, 1997 2nd
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden 19 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
kylo-342 ?Apr, 1997 2nd
with David Pickford
with David Pickford
WB ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Nicola
with Nicola
PaulHermes ??, 1997 -
Hidden 30 Jun, 1995 Lead
Hidden 7 May, 1995 Lead O/S
Roget 7 May, 1995 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
mattnuttall ?Apr, 1995 Lead
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
pete johnson 2 Sep, 1994 Lead O/S
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
crossleysm ?Aug, 1994 2nd
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 25 May, 1991 2nd O/S
andybirtwistle 25 May, 1991 2nd
mark-abz 6 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
Eduardo Martinez 29 May, 1990 Lead O/S
DDDD ??, 1990 -
Nick Biven ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Dave Barton, Gil
with Dave Barton, Gil
Billg 25 Jun, 1989 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton
with Jon Barton
UKB Shark ??, 1989 Lead O/S year a guess
year a guess
goshawk 5 Jul, 1988 Lead
Hidden 26 Apr, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1988 2nd
Mike Owen 25 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with John Peake
with John Peake
Hidden 25 Apr, 1987 2nd
Hidden ??, 1987 Lead
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
Hidden 26 Apr, 1986 Lead
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 24
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set