Restricted Access
Officially there is no access permitted away from the PROW or bridleways.
Access to climb Trango Towers/Peppermint Pig areas is sensitive as it lies within the inner perimeter of the power station - climbers are occassionally asked to leave this area by security staff. Access to Rainbow slabs and surrounding areas is only possible from the Llanberis side but access from Nant Peris (Pass side) is striclty not allowed.
This area includes all of the lower part of Dinorwig Slate quarry, including Rainbow slab area, and the levels opposite (Rainbow Walls). The Lower Dinorwic quarries are all on land owned by First Hydro Company (FHC). FHC have to comply with the Mines and Quarries Act. This means providing a properly maintained barrier to prevent members of the public from falling into the quarries. The company are repairing fencing in the area and employing additional signage to emphasise the dangerous nature of the quarries. There is no formal permission to climb or walk in the quarries away from the public footpaths and if the secutiry staff carrying out routine patrols, see any members of the public (including climbers) away from the public rights of way they will be asked to leave. Please follow their instructions and do not create conflict if this is the case. Please respect the environment of the quarries, do not damage any fences, keep dogs under control and take all litter home with you. In order to protect the current sensitive access, climbers have agreed not to climb on any of the levels below the Rainbow level or on the large tower overlooking the power station buildings.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rainbow Slab Area - Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting in the area betwen Colossus Wall and the Main Rainbow Slab area. These are legally protected birds and it's a criminal offence to intentionally or recklessely disturb these birds at at time.
A new seasonal restriction applies to all the routes between and including "OM 69 Runner Bean" and "Naked Before the Beast" - this includes the popular routes "Red and Yellow and pink, etc." and "Pull My Daisy".
Also when walking past to the main Rainbow Slab Area, please do not loiter or hang around beneath these routes.
The extent of this restriction will be reviewed in late April/early May and may need to be extended.
Rockfax Description
One of the finest 'lines' on British rock which is as amazing as it is frightening.
1) 6b, 40m. Start where the rainbow feature peters out. Follow the crack just to its left up for 18m, where a hard step right onto a good hold/ledge gives access to the rainbow itself. Difficult climbing up the initial rib hopefully allows you to get stood on the rainbow. Teeter right to the jugs on Poetry Pink, in what is now an outrageously run-out position. Most people head up and get the gear in the high flake on Poetry Pink, then move back down. Carry on right, with a gripper clipper to reach a bolt, to the belay on the ledges - bolt and flake.
2) 6a, 22m. Head along the now-fading ripple to a bold and tricky clip, then move up and left to the lower of two black grooves. Finish up this and work your way left to the belay. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Super Route E6's , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Llanberis Slate *** Routes , Slab Dreams , Slate Goals
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jim Fowler | 21 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful route. Decently run-out. Quite a committing proposition to second as well - I remember feeling for Johnny seconding the traverse. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wonderful route. Decently run-out. Quite a committing proposition to second as well - I remember feeling for Johnny seconding the traverse. |
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| hugo glover | 1997 |
Show βeta
βeta: si smashed it on a blistering hot day. i seconded, with the gift of a back rope at the crux and the start of the second pitch. Si and I returned to llanberis feeling pretty stoked - met Leo H in pete's, "just done rainbow" says si "good effort, Ive just done masters . . ." Says Leo - magical times | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: si smashed it on a blistering hot day. i seconded, with the gift of a back rope at the crux and the start of the second pitch. Si and I returned to llanberis feeling pretty stoked - met Leo H in pete's, "just done rainbow" says si "good effort, Ive just done masters . . ." Says Leo - magical times |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
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Angular Momentum
Grade: E6 6a ***
(Cae Mabon)