Rockfax Description
A mammoth outing up the line of the slab - as amazing as it is frightening.
1) 6b, 40m. Start where the rainbow feature peters out, and follow the crack up for 18m, where a hard step right onto a good hold/ledge, gives access to the rainbow itself. Difficult climbing up the initial rib hopefully allows you to get stood on the rainbow, teeter right to the jugs on Poetry Pink. Most people head up and get the gear in the high flake on Poetry Pink, then move back down. Carry on right, with a gripper clipper to reach the belay on the ledges - bolt and flake.
2) 6a, 22m. Carry on along the now-fading rainbow. Clip a bolt - bold and difficult - then move up and left to the lower of two black grooves. Finish up this working your way back left to the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

BenRyle 25/Mar Lead dnf

Got further this time, next go...

with Cat, Kim, Ian Grobowski
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
BenRyle 28/Feb/14 Lead dnf
with Dan
anguskille 06/Oct/13 2nd β

Incredible route, my scariest and best seconding experience! nice on Ed, loved it!

Ed Booth 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Quality!! Pitch 1 only. Second pitch incorporated by the waterfall so Angus led up Cystitis top half. 2nd o.s

Alex Mason 26/Sep/13 Lead β

Ground-up.Led P1. Fell off entering the rainbow in 2011 and 2012. Felt ok today with a different sequence. Amazing route, Amazing line.

with Oli Grounsell
gw3285 08/Jun/13 Lead
jacobjacob 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Pitch 1. Amazing feature, one of the best lines around. Will be back for the second pitch!

Hidden 31/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
barni 25/Mar/11 Lead β

Ground up one fall moving over to the rainbow hand popped. first pitch only

with Stuart, luke
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Mike Goldthorp 19/Mar/10 Lead β

Ground up. Fell on a hard move just after getting on the rainbow, then lead clean later that day. Such an inspiring 'line'! You beauty!

with Dunken
NickHarms ??/2010 -
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1995 Lead dnf

Remember like yesterday, peeled off on tricky foot swap

ukb & bmc shark 12/Apr/93 2nd
with Andy Perkins
goi.ashmore 27/Jun/92 Lead β

The first pitch practiced the crux on, the second pitch completely on-sight. A total gripper, given that I got onto the Rainbow much too low, so the last gear I had at the crux was the low bolt on Cure For A Sick Mind. I also left my RPs on the ground, so had to drop a rope down to pick them up. Si fell off the crux on the first pitch and took a monster swing!

with Simon Coles
Steve Walker ??/1991 Lead

lead first pitch. Did not do second pitch as no one would second the first lol.

with jim adey, jason cain, paul entwistle
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with owen jones
Mike Owen 10/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Julian Cooper
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
mark mcgowan01 ?/Dec/85 AltLd O/S

on sight early ascent

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High E7
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High E6
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High 6c
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High 6b
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High 6a
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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