60m.

Rockfax Description
One of the finest 'lines' on British rock which is as amazing as it is frightening.
1) 6b, 40m. Start where the rainbow feature peters out. Follow the crack just to its left up for 18m, where a hard step right onto a good hold/ledge gives access to the rainbow itself. Difficult climbing up the initial rib hopefully allows you to get stood on the rainbow. Teeter right to the jugs on Poetry Pink, in what is now an outrageously run-out position. Most people head up and get the gear in the high flake on Poetry Pink, then move back down. Carry on right, with a gripper clipper to reach a bolt, to the belay on the ledges - bolt and flake.
2) 6a, 22m. Head along the now-fading ripple to a bold and tricky clip, then move up and left to the lower of two black grooves. Finish up this and work your way left to the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Bold Slate routes, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ferdia 6 May Lead What a route. A great experience. Quite glad it was trickier than I thought it would be.
What a route. A great experience. Quite glad it was trickier than I thought it would be.
LRob 4 Nov, 2017 Lead Scary lead
Scary lead
BenRyle 25 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf Got further this time, next go...
with Cat, Kim, Ian Grobowski
Got further this time, next go...
with Cat, Kim, Ian Grobowski
Jack Geldard ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
BenRyle 28 Feb, 2014 Lead dnf
anguskille 6 Oct, 2013 2nd β Incredible route, my scariest and best seconding experience! nice on Ed, loved it!
Incredible route, my scariest and best seconding experience! nice on Ed, loved it!
Ed Booth 6 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Quality!! Pitch 1 only. Second pitch incorporated by the waterfall so Angus led up Cystitis top half. 2nd o.s
Quality!! Pitch 1 only. Second pitch incorporated by the waterfall so Angus led up Cystitis top half. 2nd o.s
Alex Mason 26 Sep, 2013 Lead β Ground-up.Led P1. Fell off entering the rainbow in 2011 and 2012. Felt ok today with a different sequence. Amazing route, Amazing line.
with Oli Grounsell
Ground-up.Led P1. Fell off entering the rainbow in 2011 and 2012. Felt ok today with a different sequence. Amazing route, Amazing line.
with Oli Grounsell
gw3285 8 Jun, 2013 Lead
jacobjacob 21 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Pitch 1. Amazing feature, one of the best lines around. Will be back for the second pitch!
Pitch 1. Amazing feature, one of the best lines around. Will be back for the second pitch!
Hidden 31 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
barni 25 Mar, 2011 Lead β Ground up one fall moving over to the rainbow hand popped. first pitch only
with Stuart, Luke Brooks
Ground up one fall moving over to the rainbow hand popped. first pitch only
with Stuart, Luke Brooks
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Mike Goldthorp 19 Mar, 2010 Lead β Ground up. Fell on a hard move just after getting on the rainbow, then lead clean later that day. Such an inspiring 'line'! You beauty!
Ground up. Fell on a hard move just after getting on the rainbow, then lead clean later that day. Such an inspiring 'line'! You beauty!
NickHarms ??, 2010 -
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??, 1995 Lead dnf Remember like yesterday, peeled off on tricky foot swap
Remember like yesterday, peeled off on tricky foot swap
UKB Shark 12 Apr, 1993 2nd
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
goi.ashmore 27 Jun, 1992 Lead β The first pitch practiced the crux on, the second pitch completely on-sight. A total gripper, given that I got onto the Rainbow much too low, so the last gear I had at the crux was the low bolt on Cure For A Sick Mind. I also left my RPs on the ground, so had to drop a rope down to pick them up. Si fell off the crux on the first pitch and took a monster swing!
with Simon Coles
The first pitch practiced the crux on, the second pitch completely on-sight. A total gripper, given that I got onto the Rainbow much too low, so the last gear I had at the crux was the low bolt on Cure For A Sick Mind. I also left my RPs on the ground, so had to drop a rope down to pick them up. Si fell off the crux on the first pitch and took a monster swing!
with Simon Coles
Steve Walker ??, 1991 Lead lead first pitch. Did not do second pitch as no one would second the first lol.
with jim adey, jason cain, paul entwistle
lead first pitch. Did not do second pitch as no one would second the first lol.
with jim adey, jason cain, paul entwistle
mik1miller ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with owen jones
with owen jones
Mike Owen 10 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
with Julian Cooper
with Julian Cooper
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mitch1960 ??, 1986 Lead
with Dave Fernig
with Dave Fernig
mark mcgowan01 ?Dec, 1985 AltLd O/S on sight early ascent
on sight early ascent
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