The first bolt at 22m is enough to put most people off. It has been on-sighted and must be one of the boldest leads this side of Cloggy. Start 7m left of the rib of Cystitis By Proxy above a really bad landing. A tricky sequence off the ground leads to a break at 6m. A vague broken depression leads to the rainbow past poor skyhooks and micro wires. The bolt just above the rainbow is something of the ultimate ''gripper clipper''. Move up to a traverse line and either make a massive span, or jump, up and left for a good crimp. Above is the second bolt. From here, step right and then straight up to the top. © Rockfax
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