Rockfax Description
The direct variant on Cystitis By Proxy. Start up Cystitis By Proxy and, from just above the overlap, head straight up to a boss of rock and the first bolt. Tricky moves up past this lead to the next bolt and then onto the rainbow where you can join Splitstream to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The ukc entry is taken from rockfax and ignores the ground up entry which is widley different and a definate direct line. The line still gains the small ledge to the first bolt and passes the hard moves past the second bolt to meet cystis. At this point if quested direct and proper from the rainbow it avoids the easy ledges and gains a bolt left which, when continued as a direct meets the end of the slipstream traverse. A widely different line to the rockfax which makes the line less independent and devalue the thinner and bolder e6 experience. An excellent full value pitch when you ignore the rockfax. Ringing' in Urea's
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andrew finney | 8 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: The Ground up guide book displays a topo that suggests going direct from the rainbow. The ground up description suggests that after joining cystitis and stepping onto the rainbow, to continue to climb direct until eventually meeting the end of the slip traverse. There is a bolt slightly left (not belonging to RbA e7), just after gaining the rainbow, this avoids following the easy ground up and right to the slipstream zig zag and bolt. The lefthand bolt marks the path that eventually meets a good hold at the end of the slipstream traverse. Finishing up this allows you to clip the last bolt and continue to the top via slipstream. This direct is thin and bold giving the route a full e6 experience. Excellent climbing regardless, would require nerves of steel for an Onsight. Important to note this and not take Wrongfax as gospel, its not the only way up! Possibly a neglected way up the slab if you don't have a copy of the ground up guidebook...? Worth doing and definitely still *** | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The Ground up guide book displays a topo that suggests going direct from the rainbow. The ground up description suggests that after joining cystitis and stepping onto the rainbow, to continue to climb direct until eventually meeting the end of the slip traverse. There is a bolt slightly left (not belonging to RbA e7), just after gaining the rainbow, this avoids following the easy ground up and right to the slipstream zig zag and bolt. The lefthand bolt marks the path that eventually meets a good hold at the end of the slipstream traverse. Finishing up this allows you to clip the last bolt and continue to the top via slipstream. This direct is thin and bold giving the route a full e6 experience. Excellent climbing regardless, would require nerves of steel for an Onsight. Important to note this and not take Wrongfax as gospel, its not the only way up! Possibly a neglected way up the slab if you don't have a copy of the ground up guidebook...? Worth doing and definitely still *** |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rainbow Slab Area
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Predator
Grade: E6 6a ***
(Craig Y Cwm)