UKC

31m. The great corner is climbed past a number (17?) of old pegs. Very tiring with a fairly bold start.

Jeff Lamb and Ed Cleasby 1979

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Lifetime List.


ClimberDateStyle
Duncan Campbell 11/May Lead O/S

Mega. After bailing from Pavey then Ben racking up for Fine Time and realising he had 2 left shoes I strapped it in for this. Wasn’t feeling super psyched as it was freezing but really glad I did. Bottom is pretty feisty - bring a small micro cam. Got a savage flash pump but there are enough rests and with some wide bridging it wasn’t a total Nightmare. Backed the 1st peg up and then had to slap for what I hoped (and was) a good hold. Good effort Ben seconding with one rock shoe one approach shoe!

with Ben Heason
LRob 30/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Hard moves to the peg then pretty steady beyond. The gear before the peg is good. Small cam useful. Committing moves to clip peg which can be backed up. Upper roof is great.

Eduardo Martinez 05/Aug/17 Lead

Failed on it 20 years or so ago. Bottled it again today by grabbing the tat on the first peg. Couldn't trust the friend below it; the only piece stopping you from decking it from 6 or 7m on the crux, should you fall. The rest of the route I did cleanly. Interestedly the picture in Extreme Rock shows a peg by that friend placement. This peg should be replaced and all the other redundant pegs further up the route removed in my opinion.

soph 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Down climbed to contemplate lack of a small cam when a kind man abseiled past and lent me one! Really enjoyed this especially the top overhang.

markalmack 02/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Fell off at the top of the groove first attempt

with WB
Ed Booth 14/Aug/16 Lead dog

Shambles! my nemesis route! Arms were on strike

with Anna Booth
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead G/U
GPN 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Wohoo! First E5 OS. Great climbing - would be even better without the pegs!

with net
Nick Clement 05/Sep/15 Lead
with Rachel Antill, Paul Figg
Paul Figg 05/Sep/15 2nd
with Rachel Antill, Nick Clement
Ramon Marin 04/Jul/15 Lead G/U
with adam brown
BRoe 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Ensoll
sparkass 07/Jun/15 Lead G/U

One fall, found this really pumpy but my warm up was poor at best. Made easier with encouragement from Jen!

with Clare Waring
Hidden 25/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 2nd
samrad 20/May/15 Lead G/U

no warm up and cold temps led to mega flash pump and numb hands by the 1st peg. had a rest on the rope lowered back down to warm up, then it went ok. Good line but maybe the climbing wasn't quite as good as i expected.

with james G
hamer89 ?/May/15 Lead O/S

Really good, lots of decaying pegs but other gear around

phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hannes B 01/Jun/14 Lead

yoyo 2F vom Dach. Great fun! cheers for the belay Tom

with Tom W
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead rpt
pezzerrr 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
GeorgeWoodward 11/Apr/14 TR RP
with andrew senior
danimal88 12/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with gforce
gforce 09/Aug/13 Lead

Loved this!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mal Scott
Footy564 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
Apharri 01/Jun/13 Lead β

Part one of day crush. On Jims gear but mostly peg clipping anyway. Very soft E5

with Jim Gayler, Dave Wharton
Footy564 26/May/13 2nd RP
with James stokes
JulesV 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Peter Holder 05/Mar/12 2nd
with Nick Michel
Hidden 05/Mar/12 Lead
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 01/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Clipped peg and fell off - gutted! One more move...

with John Helme
chris m fisher 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
akhughes 01/Sep/11 Lead β

Outstanding route and not bold to start really.

Adam Ellwood 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S
beci tointen ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jamie Kean
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Gus 19/May/10 Lead O/S

Well good. Found this steady but then found R&S quite tough/ scary!

with ed booth
Ed Booth 19/May/10 2nd dog

Climbed like a tool. 3 hangs. Need to work on my steep climbing!!

with Gus
liamlonsdale 19/Apr/10 2nd dog

Awesome route. Tenuous foot holds and some big moves onto good edges. Amazing climbing all the way. Would love to go back and second it clean...would love even more to lead it.

with George Ullrich
DJayB 17/Apr/10 Lead dog

Ran out of steam on the final moves! So close to the onsight arrgh!

with rclarke
jeffmcd56 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Wez
Hidden ?/Apr/09 -
Steve Crowe 24/Jul/08 2nd rpt
with karin
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd
Ram MkiV 14/May/08 Lead O/S

intense start and finish, brilliant climbing and line. went up middlefell and round to meet the others at pavey with a view to fallen angel after this but it was dirty and seeping - de-psyched, ended up just walking down again on thrashed legs, balls. Nice walk though.

with insufferable andy
andy gravestock 14/May/08 Lead β

first e5 really cool moves

with steve
C coldwell-storry 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paddy Cave
switch ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 14/May/05 Lead O/S

Lovely, cool evening conditions. Bottom end.

with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 2nd dog
simon cox ??/2000 -
SR1970 ?/May/98 Lead RP
sadams 16/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with John Fletcher
Ian Jones ??/1997 Lead O/S

I thought this was desperate but I hate climbing when it is really hot. it was so hot that Karen, who is Texan, said it was unbearable. Good pitch though.

with Karen Ghiselli
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with Jari Pollenen
Hidden 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead O/S
with sharpie
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Steve Walker ??/1994 Lead
with jason cain
Steve Crowe 08/May/93 Lead O/S
with karin
jfletcher 27/Mar/93 Lead G/U

Fluffed the start with cold fingers and brushed the ledge on the rope stretch. Wasn't cold by the time topping out. Great battle!

with Phil Dowthwaite
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with tony peacock
Chris Wright 21/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Bob 19/May/90 Lead
with A. Rowell & R. Knight
Hidden 13/May/90 Lead O/S
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 16/May/89 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Seymore Butt ??/1985 Lead
with Ian Fenton
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 05/Aug/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
Hidden 02/Jul/83 Lead
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
44 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set