UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

Rockfax Description
A steep and airy upper section is the reward after an undistinguished start. Begin at a broken crack towards the right-hand side of the wall. Take the crack to a ledge and thread, and then climb up leftwards to a tiny cave and more threads. Move right on holes and pockets to reach threads and a peg and then head straight up to a steep crack that is climbed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at the foot of a "messy" crack beneath an impressive overhanging arete. Follow this easily to a good thread. Climb diagonally left to small cave and more good threads, then move back right following a line of holes and pockets to in-situ threads and an old peg. Move straight up past this (crux) to a steep corner crackline and follow it with continued interest to the top!

Ticklists

Best of Symonds Yat!

Feedback

User Date Notes
mishabruml 29 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: gear is a bit crap. added another insitu thread about 3m to the left of the thread on Yongona thread at the crux (left of peg) is worryingly thin/sandy, don't think it would take a lob. can be backed up with a red totem (friend 1) or number 9 gold nut in the pocket. replaced this thread with thinner cord (doubled up) and used the black static for the thread described below, leaving more room for gear/fingers in crux pocket.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: gear is a bit crap. added another insitu thread about 3m to the left of the thread on Yongona thread at the crux (left of peg) is worryingly thin/sandy, don't think it would take a lob. can be backed up with a red totem (friend 1) or number 9 gold nut in the pocket. replaced this thread with thinner cord (doubled up) and used the black static for the thread described below, leaving more room for gear/fingers in crux pocket.
Matt1234 9 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: In-situ thread replaced 9th July 2021
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In-situ thread replaced 9th July 2021
ClimbingNut 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Well protected, lovely airy climbing, nice holds are always there if you go for it. One of the best routes at Symonds?!?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well protected, lovely airy climbing, nice holds are always there if you go for it. One of the best routes at Symonds?!?
dprib123 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Peg has been replaced 04/19
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Peg has been replaced 04/19

Logged Ascents

142 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 71 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Surrealist P3

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

Loading Notifications...