As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
Rockfax Description
A steep and airy upper section is the reward after an undistinguished start. Begin at a broken crack towards the right-hand side of the wall. Take the crack to a ledge and thread, and then climb up leftwards to a tiny cave and more threads. Move right on holes and pockets to reach threads and a peg and then head straight up to a steep crack that is climbed to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the foot of a "messy" crack beneath an impressive overhanging arete. Follow this easily to a good thread. Climb diagonally left to small cave and more good threads, then move back right following a line of holes and pockets to in-situ threads and an old peg. Move straight up past this (crux) to a steep corner crackline and follow it with continued interest to the top!
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mishabruml | 29 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: gear is a bit crap. added another insitu thread about 3m to the left of the thread on Yongona thread at the crux (left of peg) is worryingly thin/sandy, don't think it would take a lob. can be backed up with a red totem (friend 1) or number 9 gold nut in the pocket. replaced this thread with thinner cord (doubled up) and used the black static for the thread described below, leaving more room for gear/fingers in crux pocket. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: gear is a bit crap. added another insitu thread about 3m to the left of the thread on Yongona thread at the crux (left of peg) is worryingly thin/sandy, don't think it would take a lob. can be backed up with a red totem (friend 1) or number 9 gold nut in the pocket. replaced this thread with thinner cord (doubled up) and used the black static for the thread described below, leaving more room for gear/fingers in crux pocket. |
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Matt1234 | 9 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: In-situ thread replaced 9th July 2021 | βeta? | |
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βeta: In-situ thread replaced 9th July 2021 |
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ClimbingNut | 13 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Well protected, lovely airy climbing, nice holds are always there if you go for it. One of the best routes at Symonds?!? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well protected, lovely airy climbing, nice holds are always there if you go for it. One of the best routes at Symonds?!? |
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dprib123 | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Peg has been replaced 04/19 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Peg has been replaced 04/19 |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)