250m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 250m. The second most popular route on the south face of the Midi and with good reason - the Contamine is the E4 climbers' version of the Rébuffat, with tough, well protected climbing. The route is often abseiled to avoid carrying sacks.
1) 6a, 20m. Start on the same ledge as the Rébuffat-Baquet and, as with that route, step left and climb the groove above for 8m to where it starts to move left. Instead of following it left, carry on straight up through an overlap and climb the slab for 5m to a belay.
2) 6a, 30m. Cross the slab diagonally leftwards to the foot of a short, steep corner-crack. Climb this and the crack above to a belay on the right of a large slab.
3) 6b, 45m. Climb the twin cracks above, following them 5m left of the crest of the arête to belay in a shallow notch above an overlap. There are some pegs in place to help with this pitch ,but it is sustained (and superb).
4) 5c, 45m. The corner above is easier but just as good. Follow the grooves to a series of ledges (often snowy) below an imposing corner-crack that splits a steep wall.
5) 6c+, 40m. Scramble up the ledges (5a) to the foot of the corner-crack (possible belay) and climb this. It looks okay from below but proves tough and is both thin and tenuous at the same time! Fortunately it is well protected throughout. The final move past a bolt at the end of the steep section is the technical crux and after this, easier padding up right following the wide flared crack leads to the belay on a ledge below more tough-looking steep ground.
6) 6b, 30m. Looks can be deceiving ... but in this case, they aren't! The crack and the slabby ground above it are hard and it has been known for some of the pegs to be pulled on by tired climbers with five tough pitches already below them. Once at the top of the slab, either abseil off or:
7) Climb an easy scrambling pitch up a shaded gully to reach the Rébuffat-Baquet.
8) 5c/A0 or 6b+, 25m. Follow pitch 10 of the Rébuffat-Baquet to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbed with Alex Marchant. Alternate leads, Alex led crux pitches. Good weather. 4 hours to top, then abseiled down and slog back to midi station.

Bron, Bozon, Contamine, Juge and Labrunie 01/Sep/1957

Ticklists: Euro Alpine Rock.


ClimberDateStyle
ndraper1 17/Oct AltLd rpt

Sans chalk, sans warm temps, sans problem.

Dexter JW 27/Sep AltLd O/S

One cheeky little rest at the piton after the crux bolt, rest totally free. Hard work! Kudos to Matt for the true onsight of the crux pitch on lead

Matt Amos 27/Sep AltLd O/S

I was very surprised to not get spat out by the 6c+ pitch and as a result I thought it might be easy than advertised. Given that the day started very cold and snowy I was totally stoked that we managed to free it! Snow was found on the crux pitch, but kudos to dex for leading the bottom two pitches with utterly frozen digits.

Hidden 08/Sep AltLd
Andy Moles 27/Aug AltLd

Pitch 6 in the above description does not exist. But we got a nice extra pitch at the bottom due to low glacier level to make up for it. Stunning route. Hauled bag.

with Ferdia
ferdia 27/Aug AltLd O/S

crux felt 7a

Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
Jo sumner 15/Aug 2nd
natetan 05/Aug AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden 13/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 13/Sep/16 AltLd
Hugh Irving 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Dream pitches in an awesome situation! Led the first two pitches in one and led the crux pitch. Pulled through the crux but had to sit on a peg near the end of the pitch.

with George, Noah
George Ponsonby 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
mcgovern 19/Aug/16 AltLd

You grow lettuce indoors in a cage?

liamo333 19/Aug/16 -

Why are all the rocks different sizes?

davkeo 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Abbed in. Started from p2. I did p2&p4 plus the scramble up to the crux pitch. Climbing was pretty sweet all through. Had pack on for crux pitch but moves felt mostly fine with a bit of effort required. Holds run out at the bolt and it's a bit of bridgey stemming to get thru to a better position. Good fun.

Hidden 29/Jul/16 AltLd dog
Paul Collins 29/Jul/16 AltLd

Amazing! Fell off the crux, was wondering what the bolt was for!!

with Suzana
stanleynkk 11/Jul/16 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 11/Jul/16 AltLd

Pitches 1,3,4. Granite 7a feels impossible!

with Tim Johnston, stanleynkk
bencoope 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
ndraper1 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Absolutely stunning and well protected climbing. 1st, 3rd & crux. That top crack is fantastic.Took a couple of scrapes at the bolt- its pretty desperate and reachy to the shit holds on the flared ramp. Happy with my first E4 being at altitude!

with Mike Kirby
Hidden 10/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
QuentinSu 24/Sep/15 AltLd dog
steve_gibbs 26/Aug/15 AltLd dog
zcsharp 26/Aug/15 AltLd dog

Had to aid the crux but probably could have done it clean if time was our hands. Such nice climbing, some of the best i have ever done.

Ben Briggs ?/Aug/14 Lead
with Abs
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
McGuinness 10/Apr/14 -
with Kerry, Steve
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
tuukka 22/Aug/13 AltLd

Followed the crux pitch with the pack. Nice climbing.

with Juha
Petar Samkov 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Our warm up for Grand Cap. Great route , the crux pitch is must .

with Damqn Petkov Asq Markova
andyinglis 22/Jul/13 AltLd

Point of aid required at the crux. Sustained route.

Alasdair Fulton 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 2 run together was a great pitch. As was the frst of the 6b pitches. The topo in Mont Blanc Supercracks is next to useless and we went a bit wrong on the 2nd 6b pitch. Got back on line for the crux which I got clean but, alas, on second.

Claire Molloy ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Mark Thomas
jcw ??/2013 -
sam820 01/Aug/11 AltLd dog

French free! Matt almost led the crux pitch clean only to fall at the final bulge due to wet holds. I failed on the 6a/b pitch due to lack of commitment when pulling through the small roof.

with Matt Keyse
Johnny Baker ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Matt Bennett 04/Sep/10 AltLd

With Aid

with Mark Stevenson
mr mills 13/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, fantastic climbing ! missed the last cable back down to Chamonix.

with Gerwyn
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/08 AltLd
Adam Booth 23/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Bloody hard! Thankfully was climbing with someone a lot better than me!

whispering nic ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Mark Ryle
Hidden 14/Aug/02 Lead O/S
crossleysm ??/1996 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/92 AltLd

Superb route but needed to pull on a couple of pegs on the crux pitch, which I led. Topped out over the balcony onto the viewing platform to hoardes of Japenese tourists with big cameras. Quite surreal!

with Pete Finklaire, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/Aug/92 AltLd

v. hard, used some aid

John Marsland ?/Aug/87 -
with Dave Soles
alpinist63 ?/Aug/80 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1979 Lead O/S
with Len Cray
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