160m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 185m. A good alternative to the R├ębuffat-Baquet. Unfortunately the route faces east and loses the sun early, especially the upper corner so start early, climb fast and save it for a scorching August day with no wind.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb grey rock up and into the groove and follow this leftwards easily to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, 10m left of the grey rock.
3) 5b, 30m. More of the same superb rock and climbing!
4) 5b, 30m. Continue up the groove, taking the left-hand crack when it steepens. Belay beneath an overhang.
5) 6a/A0 or 6c, 25m. Things get tough! Climb up to below an overhang and traverse left then climb the groove above. This can be done free but most climbers pull on some handily placed bolts, bringing the grade to an amenable 6a.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the short wide crack. Easy ground leads to two belays - use the one on the right.
6) 6a+, 30m. Climb the corner with some difficulty to a stance which gets chilly pretty quickly!
7) 6a, 25m. Carry on up the groove to reach the top of the pillar. Either abseil the Contamine or follow it to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the corners to the right of the 'Contamine' on the south face
A fine alternative if, the Rebuffat is too crowded (it always is)
It's of the same quality and grade

Pierre Kohlmann 1960.


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High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: TD+ 6b+ ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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