750m, 25 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 650m. A classic route taking an amazing line - just look up from Chamonix town centre at sunset and you will instantly want to climb this. The west face of the Charmoz catches the evening sun and the Cordier Pillar is THE line.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, take the path to Lac Bleu then follow a vague track climbing eastwards, directly towards the Petits Charmoz. Cross the moraine beneath the Glacier de Blaitière following the line of least resistance (occasional cairn) to reach the ridge coming down from the Aiguille de Blaitière Northwest Ridge. Cross the next bowl (more boulders but easier than the Blaitière moraine) in the direction of the Charmoz to reach the ridge overlooking the foot of the Nantillons Glacier. If you are going straight to the routes from the lift or the Plan de l'Aiguille hut, continue across the glacier, but if you are planning to bivi, walk up a good path along the ridge which leads to some superb bivi spots at the foot of the northwest ridge of the Blaitiére. The glacier is extremely prone to rockfall and, although it can be crossed high up, it is usually worth the extra effort of descending slightly and crossing level with the southwest ridge of the Aiguille de l'M - whichever way you cross, don't dawdle. Having crossed the glacier snout, head directly towards the Grands Charmoz and the foot of the route.
1) 4c. Follow a ramp up and left to a ledge.
2) 6a+. Step right and climb the steep finger-crack.
3) 5c. Drift right and then come back left to easier ground.
4) 3b. Go straight up the easier ground to reach a corner.
5) 6a. Climb the corner, which is marked by several pegs.
6) 4c. Step right and climb a short, easier corner.
7) 4a. Go up and right across easy, broken ground.
8) 5c. Climb the tricky corner-crack to an exposed belay.
9) 5a. Continue straight up the wide corner-crack system.
10) 6a+. Go straight up the left-facing corner and then traverse out left under a roof. A stunning pitch.
11) 5c. Move left and climb the corner above.
12) 6a+. Climb the steep corner/groove.
13) 5a. Go diagonally up and right then come back left to belay.
14) 5c. Go straight up the corner then traverse diagonally left.
15) 5b. Take the right-leaning groove to easier ground.
16) 3b. Go diagonally left for 10m then back right for 10m.
17) 3b. Continue straight up easy terrain to steeper ground.
18) 4c. Step right and climb a corner system.
19) 5a. Move left and continue up corners.
20) 6b. Go straight up the steep finger-crack.
21) 5c. Climb slightly easier ground to the foot of a wide crack.
22) 6b. Climb the crack, for which a large cam is vital!
23) 5a. Continue straight up then move right into a corner.
24) 3c. Climb the broken corner to the Charmoz summit ridge.
It is possible to follow the summit ridge to the top of the Charmoz via a 50m pitch of 5a. If you do this, reverse the pitch and then abseil back down the route.
Descent - The Cordier Pillar is nearly always abseiled since it allows the route to be climbed with minimal kit. The belays are fixed (and there are also numerous pegs and the odd bolt on the route too.) © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome climb, following a series of interesting cracks to a two-thrid height ledge. From here you have some of the best climbing of your life to the top, from finger-locking to off-widthing, every kind of perfect jamming can be experience.

****!

Addison, Cordier, Fagard and Jouty 06/Jul/1970

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Grande Courses, Euro Alpine Rock, Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jackob 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Be careful of the beta on the mountain-spirit guides. The green line for pitch 19 (upper section) is actually wrong that is a very difficult hand crack. The real line is even further left. The rockfax line is also wrong but the description is good. There are also random peg belays everywhere so be careful not to assume you are on the right belay!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Be careful of the beta on the mountain-spirit guides. The green line for pitch 19 (upper section) is actually wrong that is a very difficult hand crack. The real line is even further left. The rockfax line is also wrong but the description is good. There are also random peg belays everywhere so be careful not to assume you are on the right belay!!
roym 1 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax description is good but topo is out. The start is further right and up the snow (although the other parties on the route took a direct start which avoids the steep snow/ice to get to the 4c ramp). Pitch 10 is a fantastic slab with corner crack (not that obviously below a roof). Pitch 11-14 follow the obvious shadowed corners to the left of the topo line. Fair amount of loose rock on the easier pitches and definitely run back across the glacier!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax description is good but topo is out. The start is further right and up the snow (although the other parties on the route took a direct start which avoids the steep snow/ice to get to the 4c ramp). Pitch 10 is a fantastic slab with corner crack (not that obviously below a roof). Pitch 11-14 follow the obvious shadowed corners to the left of the topo line. Fair amount of loose rock on the easier pitches and definitely run back across the glacier!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mrbird 17 Aug AltLd
Mackinclimb 14 Aug AltLd A brilliant line. Route gets a bit interpretive and vague in the middle but it all comes together at the top. No no.4 cam made the top pitch very scary
with Matt Rowbottom
A brilliant line. Route gets a bit interpretive and vague in the middle but it all comes together at the top. No no.4 cam made the top pitch very scary
with Matt Rowbottom
John McKenna 4 Aug AltLd O/S First route in Chamonix. Gets better the higher you get. I didn't check my watch but I reckon we took around 25-30mins bottom to top then another 15mins to ab the entire thing. Not familiar with alpine rock grades but given the conversion from British Trad I'd say this is soft for the grade, having done harder E3s on the Grit.
First route in Chamonix. Gets better the higher you get. I didn't check my watch but I reckon we took around 25-30mins bottom to top then another 15mins to ab the entire thing. Not familiar with alpine rock grades but given the conversion from British Trad I'd say this is soft for the grade, having done harder E3s on the Grit.
calumhicks 4 Aug AltLd O/S Mega, gets better the higher up you get. A very long day all in. 10 hours for route, 7 for abb. Seemed like we were quite often not climbing the guidebook (rockfax) descriptions, but there are so many tat belays, that you can just follow your nose. Scary rockfall on glacier; be quick!
with John Mckenna
Mega, gets better the higher up you get. A very long day all in. 10 hours for route, 7 for abb. Seemed like we were quite often not climbing the guidebook (rockfax) descriptions, but there are so many tat belays, that you can just follow your nose. Scary rockfall on glacier; be quick!
with John Mckenna
Webster 23 Jul AltLd dnf defeated. too hard for me. i have climbed 5b in big boots and a 4 day sack on up the eiger, but was struggling in rock shoes and a day sack on 4b pitches here... made it to the 2/3rds height ledges, had a bit of a rest then backed off with the hardest climbing yet to come.
defeated. too hard for me. i have climbed 5b in big boots and a 4 day sack on up the eiger, but was struggling in rock shoes and a day sack on 4b pitches here... made it to the 2/3rds height ledges, had a bit of a rest then backed off with the hardest climbing yet to come.
Connorh 18 Jul AltLd dnf Had to bail around pitch 20 unfortunately due to incoming weather and lack of time. Awesome route with greast climbing, multible conflicting topo's though and route finding at the "half way" ledge is not easy.
Had to bail around pitch 20 unfortunately due to incoming weather and lack of time. Awesome route with greast climbing, multible conflicting topo's though and route finding at the "half way" ledge is not easy.
jackob 17 Jul AltLd dnf Bailed at pitch 20 after attempting to climb a very difficult hand crack mistaking it for the 6b finger crack and the weather seeming to come in. Epic descent involving stuck/cut ropes taking 5 hours.
with Connor
Bailed at pitch 20 after attempting to climb a very difficult hand crack mistaking it for the 6b finger crack and the weather seeming to come in. Epic descent involving stuck/cut ropes taking 5 hours.
with Connor
jmmadronal@gmail.com 10 Jul - tereferi de l'aguille de midi 6:40 peu de via 10:30 cima 19:00 peu de via 22:30 tenda lac voleu 1:00
tereferi de l'aguille de midi 6:40 peu de via 10:30 cima 19:00 peu de via 22:30 tenda lac voleu 1:00
Hidden 5 Jul AltLd O/S
ez does it 5 Jul AltLd O/S Absolutely massive day out. Hit the rock at about 6 and back on the ground at 10pm. Truly epic route including a great range of styles and a lot of quality rock. Dodged rockfall on the glacier on the way back. You’d better be happy abbing off tat on pegs
Absolutely massive day out. Hit the rock at about 6 and back on the ground at 10pm. Truly epic route including a great range of styles and a lot of quality rock. Dodged rockfall on the glacier on the way back. You’d better be happy abbing off tat on pegs
Tom Fullen 30 Jun AltLd O/S Take a bow! Some absolutely outrageously good climbing in the upper pitches - they’d be classics on their own at ground level - on pristine rock. Roy took the 6b corner and I took the “monster offwidth”; we didn’t have a big enough cam (big blue dragon) though so I bailed onto the slab on the right. The start of the route according to Rockfax involves a 70 degree snow/ice slope that can, according to some Spanish guys we met on route, be avoided if you take an alternative start further left.
with roym
Take a bow! Some absolutely outrageously good climbing in the upper pitches - they’d be classics on their own at ground level - on pristine rock. Roy took the 6b corner and I took the “monster offwidth”; we didn’t have a big enough cam (big blue dragon) though so I bailed onto the slab on the right. The start of the route according to Rockfax involves a 70 degree snow/ice slope that can, according to some Spanish guys we met on route, be avoided if you take an alternative start further left.
with roym
roym 30 Jun AltLd Great route, fantastic climbing on the top pitches, led a variety of pitches including the first 6b which was great. 8.5 hours bottom to top, some ab faff and 2.5 hours from bivi to Cham. Huge day.
Great route, fantastic climbing on the top pitches, led a variety of pitches including the first 6b which was great. 8.5 hours bottom to top, some ab faff and 2.5 hours from bivi to Cham. Huge day.
Dan Hale 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Tom Seccombe 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd
JRJones 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Bailed from below the offwidth. A long day.
Bailed from below the offwidth. A long day.
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Roberttaylor 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd Block leads. Pulled on one qd on pitch 2, clean after that. Incredible climbing, especially above the scrambling pitch. Offwidth crack felt so hard, mostly because my feet were in agony. Take a big cam for the crack. Ours was slightly too small. Done in 17 pitches.
Block leads. Pulled on one qd on pitch 2, clean after that. Incredible climbing, especially above the scrambling pitch. Offwidth crack felt so hard, mostly because my feet were in agony. Take a big cam for the crack. Ours was slightly too small. Done in 17 pitches.
Oliver Smaje 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rob Taylor, Nick B
with Rob Taylor, Nick B
nickb1 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Class. Offwidth at 3000m was great fun. Descended through the night.
with Roberttaylor, fuckinollie
Class. Offwidth at 3000m was great fun. Descended through the night.
with Roberttaylor, fuckinollie
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Rharrison 29 Aug, 2017 AltLd Simuled most of the route.
with Tyler
Simuled most of the route.
with Tyler
Hidden 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd
davkeo 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf We decided to turn around at 3pm after 20 pitches (another 5 to the top) due to a combo of it being Misha's last day (and needing to check out of the campsite at a reasonable hour), the clag dropping fast and my dodgy constitution. We did manage to make the last lift down with a sprint finish so we were pretty happy all the same. Climbing was good until we bailed but I wouldn't say it was amazing. May have to come back for the top pitches.
with Misha
We decided to turn around at 3pm after 20 pitches (another 5 to the top) due to a combo of it being Misha's last day (and needing to check out of the campsite at a reasonable hour), the clag dropping fast and my dodgy constitution. We did manage to make the last lift down with a sprint finish so we were pretty happy all the same. Climbing was good until we bailed but I wouldn't say it was amazing. May have to come back for the top pitches.
with Misha
Misha 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf Destined not to finish this route! First bin up, though it got delayed so only started the route at 9.30am. With only one light sack between us, we were fairly quick and smooth on the way up, bar a detour rightwards at the top of RF P12 due to confusing description - you only step R from the belay and continue straight up to easier ground in the corner groove. Dave and I ended up doing a pitch each of lichenous rarely travelled ground before getting back on route. 5.5 hours to the easy ground below the headwall. It was our last day and I needed to pay for the camping before an early start in the morning; Dave wasn't feeling great; and the weather wasn't looking great, with the headwall mostly shrouded by clouds. So we sensibly bailed just after 3pm. The abs were pretty smooth and only took about an hour. A fast walk back meant we got the last lift - bonus!
with davkeo
Destined not to finish this route! First bin up, though it got delayed so only started the route at 9.30am. With only one light sack between us, we were fairly quick and smooth on the way up, bar a detour rightwards at the top of RF P12 due to confusing description - you only step R from the belay and continue straight up to easier ground in the corner groove. Dave and I ended up doing a pitch each of lichenous rarely travelled ground before getting back on route. 5.5 hours to the easy ground below the headwall. It was our last day and I needed to pay for the camping before an early start in the morning; Dave wasn't feeling great; and the weather wasn't looking great, with the headwall mostly shrouded by clouds. So we sensibly bailed just after 3pm. The abs were pretty smooth and only took about an hour. A fast walk back meant we got the last lift - bonus!
with davkeo
Hugh Irving 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Paul Collins 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd Waited till 6am for first light to cross the glacier, mainly so we could see the rocks coming! Climbing by 8am, topped out at 5.30pm, abseiled to the glacier just as it was getting dark. Great climbing, especially the top pitches. The descent down the glacier was pretty scary, lots and lots of rockfall and rocks sliding, not a place I want to spend more time when its in that state! Super comfortable bivvi on the moraine ridge before and after.
Waited till 6am for first light to cross the glacier, mainly so we could see the rocks coming! Climbing by 8am, topped out at 5.30pm, abseiled to the glacier just as it was getting dark. Great climbing, especially the top pitches. The descent down the glacier was pretty scary, lots and lots of rockfall and rocks sliding, not a place I want to spend more time when its in that state! Super comfortable bivvi on the moraine ridge before and after.
Ali D 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd Great route! First bin, 10 hours for the route. Got the rope stuck 3 times on the way down. Had to re-climb (aid) the 6b finger crack pitch. Hit the glacier at 11.30pm got back to cham at 1.40am. What a day!
with Chucky
Great route! First bin, 10 hours for the route. Got the rope stuck 3 times on the way down. Had to re-climb (aid) the 6b finger crack pitch. Hit the glacier at 11.30pm got back to cham at 1.40am. What a day!
with Chucky
LucaC 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S From first lift. 6 hours on route. 3:30 to rappel. Then a long walk down to the valley.
with tim20
From first lift. 6 hours on route. 3:30 to rappel. Then a long walk down to the valley.
with tim20
mim tiller 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S From first lift, 6 hours for the climb, then had to walk back to Chamonix
with LucaC
From first lift, 6 hours for the climb, then had to walk back to Chamonix
with LucaC
shah 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
jameslomax 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Bivvy'd besides the glacier on Monday night, set off at 6am to make a sketchy traverse of the very icy glacier in approach shoes with a single ice axes between us. Started the climb about 7, had some absolutely amazing pitches, in particular a couple of pitches with some spectacular moves, easily the best climbing I've done in my life so far. Unfortunately we had little experience with granite and little experience with long multipitch. Made it a little under 20 pitches before we realised (at 18:00) it was time to bail, massive shame but with all the faffing about with abseils we only just reached the glacier by sunset, and arrived at the valley at 2am! In hindsight what we did wrong: it was probably at the top of our grad for what we'd normally climb single pitch, and as such we were climbing it like a peak District gritstone route - i.e. slowly and with lots of meticulously placed gear. To do this in a day we'll have to run it out, and be much more efficient with our pitches. All abseils/belays were equipped (usually with some pitons, a number of old slings/tat and a piton or two) some worth skipping for speed, some are hard to find but most follow obvious lines upwards. Occasional pitons where the climbing got hard although many of them did not feel bomber.
with Omar Shah
Bivvy'd besides the glacier on Monday night, set off at 6am to make a sketchy traverse of the very icy glacier in approach shoes with a single ice axes between us. Started the climb about 7, had some absolutely amazing pitches, in particular a couple of pitches with some spectacular moves, easily the best climbing I've done in my life so far. Unfortunately we had little experience with granite and little experience with long multipitch. Made it a little under 20 pitches before we realised (at 18:00) it was time to bail, massive shame but with all the faffing about with abseils we only just reached the glacier by sunset, and arrived at the valley at 2am! In hindsight what we did wrong: it was probably at the top of our grad for what we'd normally climb single pitch, and as such we were climbing it like a peak District gritstone route - i.e. slowly and with lots of meticulously placed gear. To do this in a day we'll have to run it out, and be much more efficient with our pitches. All abseils/belays were equipped (usually with some pitons, a number of old slings/tat and a piton or two) some worth skipping for speed, some are hard to find but most follow obvious lines upwards. Occasional pitons where the climbing got hard although many of them did not feel bomber.
with Omar Shah
Adam Coles 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with seanhendo123, Clare
with seanhendo123, Clare
seanhendo123 13 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Big route! Some stunning pitches especially on the upper buttress, loose rock on easy pitches, one big rockfall damaged ropes, one through to core. Classic proper alpine route
Big route! Some stunning pitches especially on the upper buttress, loose rock on easy pitches, one big rockfall damaged ropes, one through to core. Classic proper alpine route
Hidden 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf
Misha 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf Epic!
with Nicolas
Epic!
with Nicolas
Hidden 12 Aug, 2014 Lead dnf
Hidden 10 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Scooter Young 1 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Brazeau
with Brazeau
nickwhimster 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Mont led out the top three pitches. v cool but very unnerved by listening to the rockfall all night at the bivi!
Mont led out the top three pitches. v cool but very unnerved by listening to the rockfall all night at the bivi!
monsteratt 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Bit spooked by stonefall on the approach. Some great pitches some nice slabs and flake cracks in lower half then amazing cracks and great rock on the final buttress. Worth all the effort and stress of getting there. 10 hours to the top and too many abbing down. Ropes stuck abbing into nothing resulted in late/dark/epic finish :-(
with Nick Whimster
Bit spooked by stonefall on the approach. Some great pitches some nice slabs and flake cracks in lower half then amazing cracks and great rock on the final buttress. Worth all the effort and stress of getting there. 10 hours to the top and too many abbing down. Ropes stuck abbing into nothing resulted in late/dark/epic finish :-(
with Nick Whimster
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 22 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2011 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Aug, 2011 Lead amazing day out with James, went from first bin to summit and bivvied on moraine afterwards. woke to rain so down to cham for breakfast
with James Smith
amazing day out with James, went from first bin to summit and bivvied on moraine afterwards. woke to rain so down to cham for breakfast
with James Smith
Hidden 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Jack Loftus 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Petarghh 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Cardi
with Cardi
Cardi 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf As Pete said. Did a lot of climbing, got beyond ledge. Great climbing. Thought best to abseil off, rather than continue to top.
As Pete said. Did a lot of climbing, got beyond ledge. Great climbing. Thought best to abseil off, rather than continue to top.
Hidden 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 12 Aug, 2009 AltLd rpt
Bristoldave ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jon Hauser
with Jon Hauser
Phil Jennings 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ally Baba 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Gav Swinton
with Gav Swinton
chris m fisher 21 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Tom + Olly
with Tom + Olly
tommytuffa 21 Aug, 2008 AltLd
with ollie b, Chris Fisher
with ollie b, Chris Fisher
Franco Cookson OLD 5 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S awesome, the best climbing you'll do. did it a couple of hours under guidebook time. nearly got hit by a uge rockfall- cutting our rope on the last rap. Luckily all five of us were unscathed- the biggest block was the size of a bus- crater picture to come. :-)
with Ian, Luke, Tom ripus and will
awesome, the best climbing you'll do. did it a couple of hours under guidebook time. nearly got hit by a uge rockfall- cutting our rope on the last rap. Luckily all five of us were unscathed- the biggest block was the size of a bus- crater picture to come. :-)
with Ian, Luke, Tom ripus and will
lukehunt ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S simul-climbed the top third, best climbing i've done!
with francocookson
simul-climbed the top third, best climbing i've done!
with francocookson
clams ??, 2008 AltLd
with Steve
with Steve
featuresforfeet 18 Aug, 2007 - Only got to the halfway ledges. Seconded vast majority of pitches.
Only got to the halfway ledges. Seconded vast majority of pitches.
Tobias at Home 18 Aug, 2007 Lead dnf turned around at ledges. couldn't be arsed with a bivvy and we would have been benighted...
with featuresforfeet
turned around at ledges. couldn't be arsed with a bivvy and we would have been benighted...
with featuresforfeet
Tobias at Home 15 Jul, 2007 Lead dnf ran out of steam just below halfway ledge.
with Bag
ran out of steam just below halfway ledge.
with Bag
Pete Graham ??, 2007 AltLd
with malx
with malx
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Grezza ?Jul, 2005 AltLd Amazing route
with Paul E
Amazing route
with Paul E
Hidden ?Sep, 2004 -
fellgazelle 29 Jun, 2004 - Brilliant continuous rock route. Abbed back down the route. Some very heavy and frequent rockfall throughout to the left of the route.
with Chris Dale
Brilliant continuous rock route. Abbed back down the route. Some very heavy and frequent rockfall throughout to the left of the route.
with Chris Dale
1202alarm ?Jun, 2004 -
with Oil Brown
with Oil Brown
akhughes ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
with Steptoe
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths ?Aug, 2002 AltLd
with James Hubbard
with James Hubbard
haydng ??, 2000 AltLd O/S Climbed with a random German guy from the campsite!
Climbed with a random German guy from the campsite!
Climbingspike ??, 1998 -
Hidden ??, 1998 -
tjekel ??, 1998 -
Guy ?Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S Up and down walking from the valley in a day.
with Adrian
Up and down walking from the valley in a day.
with Adrian
Hidden ??, 1996 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Aug, 1995 AltLd amazing summer
with Julian Wood
amazing summer
with Julian Wood
crossleysm ??, 1995 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
with Guy Maddox
craig h ?Aug, 1994 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
with Jim Mellor
gooberman-hill ??, 1994 AltLd Climbed with a couple of likely lads from Sheffield who were camping at the Lac Bleu, after Doug decided he wasn't into it. Utterly amazing route. Epic. We reached the top at 7pm after being held up by a slower party ahead (who bailed at the top crux pitch). Thunderstorm during the descent, went the wrong way towards the bottom of the pillar, and ended up abbing through the icefall in rock boots! Back to the tents at 3am. You can avoid the top 6b offwidth by traversing right, then climbing a thin pitch up the slab.
Climbed with a couple of likely lads from Sheffield who were camping at the Lac Bleu, after Doug decided he wasn't into it. Utterly amazing route. Epic. We reached the top at 7pm after being held up by a slower party ahead (who bailed at the top crux pitch). Thunderstorm during the descent, went the wrong way towards the bottom of the pillar, and ended up abbing through the icefall in rock boots! Back to the tents at 3am. You can avoid the top 6b offwidth by traversing right, then climbing a thin pitch up the slab.
Hidden 5 Aug, 1993 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jul, 1993 -
michaelja ?Aug, 1992 AltLd with Frank Merkenhof
with Frank Merkenhof
frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Stone
with Stone
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 1989 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 AltLd
pete johnson ?Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S Benighted on the descent after ropes jammed. A cold night!
with Andy Tallant
Benighted on the descent after ropes jammed. A cold night!
with Andy Tallant
PeteM99 ?Aug, 1988 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 31 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
with steve williams
Hidden 31 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 1988 AltLd
GaryK ?Aug, 1987 AltLd O/S Excellent route, especially the top pitches on the head wall. The ledges at 2/3rd height were a bit scrappy, but the top was worth it. Bivied at a flat spot at the bottom of the glacier. Came back to find goat shit all over my Karrimat. Took 2 years to get rid of the smell.
with Simon
Excellent route, especially the top pitches on the head wall. The ledges at 2/3rd height were a bit scrappy, but the top was worth it. Bivied at a flat spot at the bottom of the glacier. Came back to find goat shit all over my Karrimat. Took 2 years to get rid of the smell.
with Simon
AlexRenshaw ?Jul, 1987 -
Richard Weller 5 Jul, 1986 - Stupendous route
with john sanders
Stupendous route
with john sanders
John Marsland 9 Aug, 1985 AltLd dnf badly iced, abbed off from below the summit buttress
with Dave Soles
badly iced, abbed off from below the summit buttress
with Dave Soles
Neil McA 18 Jul, 1984 AltLd O/S Fast and enjoyable, less than 6 hours. a bit icy in places. Lovely route.
with Fruit
Fast and enjoyable, less than 6 hours. a bit icy in places. Lovely route.
with Fruit
Hidden ?Aug, 1983 AltLd
jcw ??, 1983 - A fantastic route, particularly the top part
with Simon Donowho
A fantastic route, particularly the top part
with Simon Donowho
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 AltLd
Hidden 4 Aug, 1981 AltLd
alpinist63 ??, 1981 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1979 AltLd
mike mo ??, 1978 -
with Harry Kent
with Harry Kent
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