750m, 25 pitches. An awesome climb, following a series of interesting cracks to a two-thrid height ledge. From here you have some of the best climbing of your life to the top, from finger-locking to off-widthing, every kind of perfect jamming can be experience.


Addison, Cordier, Fagard and Jouty 06/Jul/1970

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Alpine Grande Courses.

Ali D 16/Jul AltLd

Great route! First bin, 10 hours for the route. Got the rope stuck 3 times on the way down. Had to re-climb (aid) the 6b finger crack pitch. Hit the glacier at 11.30pm got back to cham at 1.40am. What a day!

with Chucky
LJC 13/Jul AltLd O/S

From first lift. 6 hours on route. 3:30 to rappel. Then a long walk down to the valley.

with Tim
Timothy Miller 12/Jul AltLd O/S

From first lift, 6 hours for the climb, then had to walk back to Chamonix

with Luca
jameslomax 04/Jul AltLd dnf

Bivvy'd besides the glacier on Monday night, set off at 6am to make a sketchy traverse of the very icy glacier in approach shoes with a single ice axes between us. Started the climb about 7, had some absolutely amazing pitches, in particular a couple of pitches with some spectacular moves, easily the best climbing I've done in my life so far. Unfortunately we had little experience with granite and little experience with long multipitch. Made it a little under 20 pitches before we realised (at 18:00) it was time to bail, massive shame but with all the faffing about with abseils we only just reached the glacier by sunset, and arrived at the valley at 2am! In hindsight what we did wrong: it was probably at the top of our grad for what we'd normally climb single pitch, and as such we were climbing it like a peak District gritstone route - i.e. slowly and with lots of meticulously placed gear. To do this in a day we'll have to run it out, and be much more efficient with our pitches. All abseils/belays were equipped (usually with some pitons, a number of old slings/tat and a piton or two) some worth skipping for speed, some are hard to find but most follow obvious lines upwards. Occasional pitons where the climbing got hard although many of them did not feel bomber.

with Omar Shah
Adam Coles 13/Jun AltLd O/S
with seanhendo123, Clare
seanhendo123 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Big route! Some stunning pitches especially on the upper buttress, loose rock on easy pitches, one big rockfall damaged ropes, one through to core. Classic proper alpine route

Sam Simpson 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

First bin 8.10. 2 hour base. 7 hour on route 3 hour abseíl. Great day last third is really special. Back in time for food and beer in chamonix.

with Pat Browniie
Hidden 27/Aug/16 AltLd dnf
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Misha 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


with Nic
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead dnf
nickwhimster 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Mont led out the top three pitches. v cool but very unnerved by listening to the rockfall all night at the bivi!

monsteratt 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Bit spooked by stonefall on the approach. Some great pitches some nice slabs and flake cracks in lower half then amazing cracks and great rock on the final buttress. Worth all the effort and stress of getting there. 10 hours to the top and too many abbing down. Ropes stuck abbing into nothing resulted in late/dark/epic finish :-(

with Nick Whimster
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
guy757 17/Jul/11 AltLd
Jack Loftus 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Nick
Petarghh 12/Jul/11 AltLd
Cardi 12/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

As Pete said. Did a lot of climbing, got beyond ledge. Great climbing. Thought best to abseil off, rather than continue to top.

Hidden 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 12/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jon Hauser
Phil Jennings 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Ally Baba 26/Jul/09 AltLd
with Gav Swinton
Hidden 21/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
tommytuffa 21/Aug/08 AltLd
with ollie b, Chris Fisher
Franco Cookson OLD 05/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

awesome, the best climbing you'll do. did it a couple of hours under guidebook time. nearly got hit by a uge rockfall- cutting our rope on the last rap. Luckily all five of us were unscathed- the biggest block was the size of a bus- crater picture to come. :-)

with Ian, Luke, Tom ripus and will
lukehunt ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

simul-climbed the top third, best climbing i've done!

with francocookson
clams ??/2008 AltLd
with Steve
featuresforfeet 18/Aug/07 -

Only got to the halfway ledges. Seconded vast majority of pitches.

Tobias at Home 18/Aug/07 Lead dnf

turned around at ledges. couldn't be arsed with a bivvy and we would have been benighted...

with featuresforfeet
Nicos 24/Jul/07 Lead dnf

reached the ledges

Tobias at Home 15/Jul/07 Lead dnf

ran out of steam just below halfway ledge.

with Bag
Pete Graham ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Grezza ?/Jul/05 AltLd

Amazing route

with Paul E
Hidden ?/Sep/04 -
fellgazelle 29/Jun/04 -

Brilliant continuous rock route. Abbed back down the route. Some very heavy and frequent rockfall throughout to the left of the route.

with Chris Dale
Scotsken ?/Jun/04 -
akhughes ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Hidden 16/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with James Hubbard
Hidden ??/1998 -
tjekel ??/1998 -
Guy ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S

Up and down walking from the valley in a day.

with Adrian
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/95 AltLd
crossleysm ??/1995 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
craig h ?/Aug/94 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
Hidden 05/Aug/93 AltLd
michaelja ?/Aug/92 AltLd

with Frank Merkenhof

frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
michael burrows 31/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 31/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
GaryK ?/Aug/87 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, especially the top pitches on the head wall. The ledges at 2/3rd height were a bit scrappy, but the top was worth it. Bivied at a flat spot at the bottom of the glacier. Came back to find goat shit all over my Karrimat. Took 2 years to get rid of the smell.

with Simon
AlexRenshaw ?/Jul/87 -
Richard Weller 05/Jul/86 -

Stupendous route

with john sanders
John Marsland 09/Aug/85 AltLd dnf

badly iced, abbed off from below the summit buttress

with Dave Soles
Hidden ?/Aug/83 AltLd
jcw ??/1983 -

A fantastic route, particularly the top part

with Simon Donowho
Hidden ?/Aug/82 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/82 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/81 AltLd
alpinist63 ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ?/Aug/79 AltLd

Epic rockfall event part way up

with Neil Plant
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