Mark S Davies, Steve Menadue 08/Aug/2022.
Avon Gorge Sport Routes , Best of Bristol Sport , Pylon King Forever in our Hearts , Jonas' Avon Gorge List 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Phoebe Clark | 8 Apr |
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βeta: Would make a good lead project for me | βeta? | |
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βeta: Would make a good lead project for me |
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Boomanreach | 4 Apr |
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βeta: Oscar is a mug | βeta? | |
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βeta: Oscar is a mug |
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Oscar Popels | 16 Mar |
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βeta: Warning beta - This is also only my second 6a so I don't know much about how an 6a should feel. If people want it, then the beta is as follows: Starting from the first big flat jug, you can get a vertical knee bar out to the right which gives you a no hands rest if you have a knee pad. From here, lean over left and grab the good crimp with your right hand and the undercut on the horizontal arete with your left. Without releasing the knee bar, bump your left foot up to the most obvious black polished foot hold then release the knee bar and put your right foot onto the starting large flat hold. Pull up to grab the obvious left side pull with your left hand and then grab the small 1-2 finger crimp on the arete to the right. Bump your left hand to the top of the sidepull just below the roof then put your left foot on the undercut you used at the start. From here you can drop your right knee into the rock which pulls your hips in and allows you to clip with your right hand. Once clipped, cross your right foot through above your left and put your left foot far out and high to the left. Dyno and pray that you get your hands into the holds! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Warning beta - This is also only my second 6a so I don't know much about how an 6a should feel. If people want it, then the beta is as follows: Starting from the first big flat jug, you can get a vertical knee bar out to the right which gives you a no hands rest if you have a knee pad. From here, lean over left and grab the good crimp with your right hand and the undercut on the horizontal arete with your left. Without releasing the knee bar, bump your left foot up to the most obvious black polished foot hold then release the knee bar and put your right foot onto the starting large flat hold. Pull up to grab the obvious left side pull with your left hand and then grab the small 1-2 finger crimp on the arete to the right. Bump your left hand to the top of the sidepull just below the roof then put your left foot on the undercut you used at the start. From here you can drop your right knee into the rock which pulls your hips in and allows you to clip with your right hand. Once clipped, cross your right foot through above your left and put your left foot far out and high to the left. Dyno and pray that you get your hands into the holds! |
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jwtbids | 24 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: P4 (6b variation) - Large hold near crux is very loose, would avoid pulling on it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: P4 (6b variation) - Large hold near crux is very loose, would avoid pulling on it. |
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Cheese Monkey | 24 May, 2024 |
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βeta: The grooves are from quarrying not ropes | βeta? | |
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βeta: The grooves are from quarrying not ropes |
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Henryjsh | 21 Mar, 2024 |
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βeta: The stance at the top of P4 is already getting deep rope grooves on the edge, presumably from people lowering off. One of the grooves in particular is deep enough to get a rope completely stuck. Might preserve the rock better to ab off instead of being lowered, if you're planning to repeat or switch leads for P4 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The stance at the top of P4 is already getting deep rope grooves on the edge, presumably from people lowering off. One of the grooves in particular is deep enough to get a rope completely stuck. Might preserve the rock better to ab off instead of being lowered, if you're planning to repeat or switch leads for P4 |
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