Rockfax Description
Classic, start just left of the name. A steady start leads to the sustained upper wall and a tricky finale up a steep pillar. Polished. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A direct line with great climbing and many big holds. Save a bit of puff for the final steep section.

FA. Boris Girardin, Claude & Yves Remy Mar/2007

Bettymolly 10/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Libla85 27/Oct/17 Lead

Pleasant climbing until half way up, the bolts get further apart when you need them closer. The chains are ridiculously high but there is a good hold above the chains to the left if you're brave enough.

Hidden 22/Oct/17 Lead O/S
dclarkson 21/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Josh Lewis 21/Oct/17 Lead O/S
phil64 19/Oct/17 Lead


with Rach
davidswannn 14/Oct/17 Lead
with Bryan Rynne
Hidden 14/Oct/17 -
Davy B 11/Oct/17 -
Davy B 11/Oct/17 -
marclloyd77 10/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Jim
Nick Sherring 10/Oct/17 Lead O/S
psborland 10/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Nick
andybirtwistle 06/Oct/17 Lead
with Simon Watchhorn Rice
Iain_L_32 28/Sep/17 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Kirree 06/Sep/17 TR β
with Erin
charliepickering 06/Sep/17 Lead O/S
DannyH001 05/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 20/Aug/17 2nd β
with Dan Verge
derekb 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Reid Randall (team USA)
johnm 02/Jun/17 Lead dog
georgem 02/Jun/17 TR dog
Hidden 17/May/17 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke 14/May/17 Lead
Hidden 12/May/17 Lead rpt
Ellen Cobby 10/May/17 TR RP
luke384 10/May/17 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Hidden 05/May/17 Lead β
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt
tom_lewis89 22/Apr/17 Lead
BLUBBSTER 22/Apr/17 Lead
Sarah Statham 26/Mar/17 Lead RP
with Jim Lawyer
sidge ??/2017 Lead
Bullybones 05/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Terri
Hidden 21/Nov/16 TR dog
Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S
sopaz 30/Oct/16 Lead
with Hattie
mathesar 29/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 21/Oct/16 -
joshdownham23 21/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Al
JamesWilliams 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S
adamre12 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Chris wilson 19/Oct/16 Lead
with Mark C, Joan
harold walmsley 18/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Calow
cathymiller 16/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Olly
OllyDewhirst 16/Oct/16 2nd
with Cathy
cdpuk 12/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Mike-W-99 10/Oct/16 Lead

Very tricky lower to clip.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great climbing with a tricky to clip lower off

with Mike
lookingforlotte 06/Oct/16 2nd β
with Ali
lookingforlotte 06/Oct/16 2nd β
with Ali
Tim Francis 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Steve Perry 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Triptych of awesome 6b's

Hidden 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S
LuapRagas 27/Sep/16 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead β
DorsetGareth 25/Sep/16 -

Think it was this one...

with RocUp
LuapRagas 19/Sep/16 Lead dog

Too pumped at the crux thanks to insufficient rest; fell twice at the anchor - very awkward clip but rest of the route is fantastic

Derek Ryden 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Glynne Andrew
HRadecki ?/Aug/16 Lead β
mike reed 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Niels
Hidden 20/Jun/16 Lead
LBrown 04/Jun/16 -
Hidden ?/Jun/16 TR dog
TomJ 09/May/16 Lead β
with Chris
nikolai17 09/May/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
Dave Turnbull 06/May/16 Lead O/S

Great climbing up the wall on pockets. Never too hard, but continuous

with Jane Turnbull
Greg Cunningham 06/May/16 Lead O/S
Charlie Zephyr Booth 03/May/16 Lead O/S
with ian armstrong
Hidden 03/May/16 Lead
Laurence74 22/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Tegan 10/Apr/16 Lead
Billg 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
TashaZ 08/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't find holds after 3rd bolt.

with Danny
Alastair R 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Clare, Iain
Hidden 06/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
rockafunked ?/Apr/16 Lead dog

Fell on two redpoint tries at the last move before clipping the anchor.

Matt Harmon 25/Mar/16 Lead β

with a bit beta shouted up by dawn when i couldn't see any holds

Dawn_K_B 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Rpt purely for the name

Sarah Statham ??/2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Nov/15 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 17/Nov/15 Lead β
tash 04/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with ali k
williap 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
GrahamGiles 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Aaron Clifford, pav low
Aaron.Clifford 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
TomGB 20/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Luke Perry
Hidden 19/Oct/15 Lead RP
alexelliott 16/Oct/15 Lead dog

Last clip!

with Phil Canning
Hidden 13/Oct/15 Lead O/S
dobby 200 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 11/Oct/15 2nd
Pixie-Andy 05/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Spooky moves, went well, shade on my side!

with Graham Bowline
abbeywall 29/Sep/15 Lead

Fantastic flowing moves all the way. The moves beyond the last clip to the lower off were unexpectedly hard

with FM
Marti999 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Debbie
just one more 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Dan Birkby
danbirkby 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with SteveB
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead β
josh baldwin 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Henry.Todman 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Dandan82 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Elia 05/Sep/15 Lead
joe1joe1joe2 ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Felicity Forster
migs493 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lots of tick marks which spoilt the route.

with RS
goddamm7 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Sandrex
dannyboy83 22/May/15 Lead O/S
with Lena
lena.drapella 22/May/15 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Jenni
Hidden 14/May/15 Lead dog
The Grist 08/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen harrison
quickdrawmcraw 07/May/15 Lead
Hidden 07/May/15 2nd
Hidden 01/May/15 Lead
Hidden 01/May/15 -
Rockmonkey1977 30/Apr/15 Lead β

Possibly done this before but if not then clean on-sight. Excellent route, crux at the very top.

birthers 26/Apr/15 Lead β
caroline256 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tom B
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs 22/Apr/15 2nd

Very polished now - the finish is still hard!

with Andy Nicholson, Colin Binks
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead rpt
thomasburley 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with ewan
Liam Ingram 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Roget 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Roger
marky 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead
garywong 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Peri Cheale
Anna Maykova 08/Apr/15 Lead RP
with Ian
Ian MK 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 03/Apr/15 -
Hidden 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Will Mortimer 02/Apr/15 Lead O/S
clarekissane 02/Apr/15 Lead β
Jack J Keogan 01/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/15 Lead
catrin289 ?/Apr/15 Lead β
Kipper-Phil Smith ??/2015 Lead O/S
MartinPL 26/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Mountain Llama 25/Oct/14 TR dnf
with Ray, Paul S
Hidden 25/Oct/14 -
jeddb 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
bomtall 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
LittleEm 24/Oct/14 Lead O/S

My first 6b onsight

Hidden 24/Oct/14 Lead O/S
TomGB 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Luke Perry, Stewart Moody
Hidden 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
pawelgregorczyk 11/Oct/14 Lead β
with matiamallia
matiamallia 08/Oct/14 Lead O/S
mikedevcole 01/Oct/14 Lead dog
Tristan.Stricker ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Gemma_Penny ?/Oct/14 TR
martrin 28/Sep/14 Lead
Julie Carroll 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Gorton
Bristoldave 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Haerzi 15/May/14 -
Haerzi 15/May/14 -
riff156 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Hannahc
surfede 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with ale
Dave Toseland 26/Apr/14 TR

Felt hard but nice on the top rope, Dan hung on well at the top, after wandering too far to the right. Solid 6b.

with Dan, Fred
Hidden 26/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/14 TR
Hidden 22/Apr/14 Lead O/S
JHiley 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
sdixon 21/Apr/14 2nd
Pete Wimbush 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Carty
pete1993 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

felt fairly easy, possibly being tall helps on this one

Dawn_K_B 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Definitely made the required Wild Sex noises! Wasn't prepared for how hard it would be and it was a bit sketchy climbing next to a 'don't climb here, dangerous' sign!

with James Whitehead
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
nicolat ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with James Mitchell
Hidden ?/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead dog
Ken Taylor 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

One rest near top

with Chris Michalak
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Ali 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jay81 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
leagump 03/Sep/13 TR dog


ivebittenoffmorethanicanstu 03/Sep/13 TR
SamStokes 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
dickypips 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with hans
Hidden 16/May/13 TR
3 Names 09/May/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/13 Lead O/S
rurp 07/May/13 Lead O/S

great moves, from bottom to top

Emilysaladfingers ?/May/13 Lead dog
Martin Grenfell 30/Apr/13 Lead dog
Pippa 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 30/Apr/13 2nd
Jim Brooke 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Steph, Mikey, Ian Tsang, Vic
Mossie Davis 27/Apr/13 TR β
John Nuttall 23/Apr/13 -
with Dave
a13x 16/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with James Stokes
Tom Smart 10/Apr/13 Lead β

Took a fall on the last move, good climb apart from that

crabby2009 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Bargate_Champ 10/Apr/13 -
Hidden 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Giles Davis 07/Apr/13 Lead RP

Got it this time after falling twice at the last hold before the chains in 2010 :D

with Mattdix
tobydunford 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Motown 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Day
Gus 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with whiters
Hidden 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 02/Apr/13 Lead β

Flashed after Chris's ascent.

Constant Solo ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mux ??/2013 -
with nicole
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
Hidden 26/Nov/12 Lead β
cpoad 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Dan P
dpiddock 26/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Chris P
Hidden 25/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/12 TR dnf
tomB 23/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Juliette
tommytuffa 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Libby
Keith Lambley 22/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Kate R
Hidden 17/Oct/12 Lead O/S
3 Names 17/Oct/12 Lead O/S
DannyK 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Katie
steve.warrington 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Jacky Tyrie
Hidden 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 09/Oct/12 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/12 -
Koon 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Outstanding 25m climb. Deserves 4* as in guidebook.

Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
galerito ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt
galerito ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Brendan 09/May/12 Lead O/S
Ellen Cobby 08/May/12 2nd dog
edmitchell 08/May/12 2nd O/S
Steve Hillier 08/May/12 Lead O/S
with ellen booth, Emma, edwin mitchell
emmarowe 08/May/12 Lead
Adam Booth 08/May/12 TR O/S
Alice.001 03/May/12 Lead O/S

Wildly safe sex.

Hidden 03/May/12 Lead O/S
marcb 03/May/12 Lead O/S
najki_2000 02/May/12 Lead dog

gutted I missed a good hold...wasnt even pumped but just didnt see the way someone pointed out the holds are not exactly buckets and can be quite blind and spaced!

with Chris Rose
adrian perera ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Helen Dale
Bates 29/Apr/12 Lead O/S
hellboundblr 24/Apr/12 Lead
with Ian Wilkinson
ewen 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with jim, Dan
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Lead dog
ed_1973 22/Oct/11 2nd
tradguy 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
Giles Davis 19/Oct/11 Lead dog

Jugs, not so huge as UKclimbing Logbook states, more technical and sustained than 6b to the right, pumpy at the finish and fell off the last hold before clipping the chain!! Awesome route though.

Giles Davis 19/Oct/11 Lead dog

Failed at last hold a second time!!

with Liz Collyer
Hidden 18/Oct/11 Lead
cayteye 18/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with stephen pearson
andybirtwistle 17/Oct/11 Lead
with Tom Smith
MikeC59 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
thomasburley 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Craig Devonshire
Hidden 10/Sep/11 -
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
asmith37 06/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 06/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Bex
Lukedavidalden 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
owlman 22/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
claudman 21/Apr/11 -
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Claire S-J 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

really lovely route

with rob
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
smcw ?/Mar/11 Lead
ZA ?/Mar/11 2nd
with smcw
Chris Craggs 06/Nov/10 2nd

Great - pity about the tough finale.

with Colin Binks
R8JimBob88 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Great route. Wandered a little near the top and ended up thugging it on very sharp rock!

with Laura
Jim Slater 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Tony Sawbridge, Chris Hindley
nealh ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with helen
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 22/Oct/09 Lead O/S

I think this shoud be THE 4 star route of the crag.

with mick
embob 20/Oct/09 Lead

Who wouldn't love it?

with Alex
Hidden 20/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 13/May/09 2nd
Andy Clarke 13/May/09 Lead O/S

My first 6b onsight.

Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Sam Judson 14/Sep/08 TR O/S

Wonderful route - next time will lead it.

with Phil Steadman
Dave Musgrove 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Keith Morgan
Chris the Tall 21/May/07 Lead O/S
with Liz
tjekel ??/2007 -
6 users have this on their wishlist
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set