Rockfax Description
III, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. A great route with stunning exposure but make sure you catch it in the right conditions.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, head north to pass under the northwest toe of the Aiguilles Marbrées. Turn north-east and climb gently to pass between Pte. 3516 and Pte. 3537 before turning north to reach a short snow couloir dropping down from the rib which leads to the Salle à Manger. Reaching the foot of this couloir takes around 90 minutes from the Helbronner lift.
In good snow conditions, and with no one above, you can climb the couloir itself but it is safer and only marginally more technical to climb broken rock to the left. Either option brings you to a small col with a rib on the right that leads you to the Salle à Manger. Climb the rib via the line of least resistance, which will depend on snow cover and conditions but is usually on or just left of the crest. Where the crest gets steeper and more solid, near the foot of the Dent, move left and climb up to the ridge just to the right of the Salle à Manger - a flat spot just below the crest of the Rochefort Arête.
1) From the Salle à Manger, follow the snow ridge on, or just below, the crest all the way to Point 3933m. The exact route taken will depend on conditions but regardless of the snow quality, be aware of potential cornices, particularly when crossing the photogenic serac.
2) Make a 30m abseil from a fixed anchor down to a wide shoulder, or downclimb a 50 degree snow slope.
3) Follow the ridge crest to the initial rocky section and go round it on the right-hand side of the ridge. Rejoin the crest and climb to the foot of the final summit buttress.
4) 4a. Start up the buttress steeply at first, just to the right of the ridge crest before climbing a ramp which leads leftwards into the centre of the face. Come back left to a steep gully which leads (via some pretty chossy and bold-feeling climbing, 4a ) to the summit ridge, just below the top itself.
Descent - Return via the same route. The final summit buttress can be abseiled but the rock is loose, meaning that the anchors aren't what they might be. It is easy to pull rocks off so downclimbing is a better option if possible. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The normal route and often traversed prior to an ascent of Dent du Geant, which can easily be include on the return journey. The ridge is an elegant, exposed, corniced snow crest and is extremely popular. 4-5hr from hut.

Fontaine, Ravanel + Simms 17/Jul/1900

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
JoeCoxson 22/Jul Lead

Only as far as point 3933 due to snow conditions

seanhendo123 06/Jul Lead O/S

Moved together all the way, perfect conditions

with Alan
mchardski 05/Jul 2nd

3hrs from Salle a manger and back - pretty ok timing.

cmars89 23/Jun Lead O/S
with Ryan Weber
AmyG 27/Sep/16 -
with Robin
Hidden ?/Sep/16 -
scorpia97 ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Climbed with Jess also did the Dent du Geant

Pero 31/Aug/16 Lead
Bryan M 31/Aug/16 -
with Pero
Hidden 16/Aug/16 -
masa-alpin 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

A bit under 4 hrs from Torino hut to the summit. Went off-route at one stage (Scottish tech 5) in the approach to the ridge.

Hidden 12/Aug/16 -
robgixer 11/Aug/16 AltLd
benwmorgan 09/Aug/16 -
Hidden 08/Aug/16 -
mike.moss 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow 18/Jul/16 -
with Geoff Thomas
Hamish Frost 18/Jul/16 -
Bserk 14/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Jacob Jutrem ?/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/16 AltLd
jcw ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
jeb3496 ??/2015 -
steve_gibbs 12/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
with Pete Leeming
zeitoun 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Schedule: 0500 dep. from Torino hut 0700 arr. at Salle à Manger 0930 arr. at summit 1030 dep. from summit 1200 arr. at aiguille du Géant 1400 arr. at Salle à Manger 1545 arr. Torino hut

with Olivier N.
Pete23 28/Aug/14 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
McGuinness 22/Aug/14 -
with George
Tom Campbell 22/Aug/14 -
Roberttaylor 21/Aug/14 Solo

Three 20m abseils and some downclimbing from the summit. Very windy and cold. 5 hours hut to hut.

mussonlr 08/Aug/14 -
with Steve King
andy_e 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
David Barratt ?/Jul/14 AltLd
with owenf
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Solo
johnrich 20/Jun/14 -
paulmck 11/Jun/14 -
Piers Harley ??/2014 AltLd
with Ewan Whitmey
Hidden ??/2014 -
david0811 04/Sep/13 AltLd
with debbie, Locky
MrRiley 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Mind-blowing! Fantastic conditions and weather! The slog up and down to/from the salle a manger goes on a bit

with Mark Reid
Debbie Lee 04/Sep/13 -
with Lachy, Dave Marshall
guy757 26/Aug/13 -
with Vic
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead
dbm 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom P
Hidden 10/Aug/13 -
prwalker 10/Aug/13 -
with wupert
Slick 11/Jul/13 -
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans
Hidden 11/Jul/13 -
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
jonnie3430 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lovely ridge, narrow in places but straightforward. Weather clear and bright.

James_L88 16/Jul/12 -

Followed by Dent du Geant in a long day.

with Badger
gravity 16/Jul/12 AltLd

Amazing route! The knife edge snow arete and cornice were pristine (we were first ones there in morning after snowy, windy night) and the route had incredible exposure.

with Jerome Para
Finn Curry 04/Jul/12 2nd
with Paul Warnock
industrialiceman 27/Jun/12 -
Hidden 23/Jun/12 -
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 22/Aug/11 -
jac00 17/Aug/11 -
with Tom
tomtom89 17/Aug/11 -
with Jack
Elsier 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Moved together, beautiful ridge climb

with Amy
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd
Poco Loco 01/Aug/11 AltLd

Perfect conditions this morning, wow.

BALD EAGLE 01/Aug/11 AltLd
with J.Pomeroy
mickd ?/Aug/11 AltLd

A good day out. good condt's

Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hoyes 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

From the Torino hut, with good snow and good weather. Also with Mark and Catherine.

Batt 30/Jul/11 -

Moving together with Mark P ad Cath J. Perfect conditions

edmund94 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Had to assist some Austrians who sent us the wrong way on the ascent and then didn't have sufficient rope for the Ab descent. Then went on to Dent du Geant.

Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
stuart34 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Moved together

with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 20/Aug/10 -
mark-abz 07/Aug/10 -
with Alex
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
jandyd05 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Anthony
Jonny M 14/Jul/10 Lead dnf
GiveHerHelen 14/Jul/10 2nd dnf
Cardi 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Wild
mark_chal 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Clay C 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Em66 16/Jul/09 -
with Mat
Hidden 03/Aug/08 AltLd
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott
Daniel Wicks 09/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
drysori ??/2007 -
with Luke
Hidden 11/Jul/06 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Floris
bandersnatch ?/Jul/06 Lead
with Mairi B
nickdonohue ?/Jul/06 -
with Jeff Ingman
jam_rich ?/Aug/05 -
MoWalker3 01/Aug/04 -
with Dave
andyinglis ?/Jul/04 -

Terrific, and combined with Dent de Geant. Also done in August on the way to Canzio bivi hut.

with Tom Dunstan, Neil Adams, ross barnes
Neil Adams ?/Jul/04 -
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
Hidden 03/Aug/03 -
Hidden 29/Aug/02 -
joe king ?/Jun/02 -
Hidden 17/May/02 AltLd
tim_mcd ??/2002 -
bandersnatch ?/Jul/99 Lead
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/97 -

From west to summit then bailed down NNE slope as too many people ahead of us to fit in the hut before the Grandes Jorases.

with Jon Scorer
Richard Weller 19/Aug/93 -
with Simon Currin
pingora 03/Aug/89 Solo
ill_bill ?/Jul/86 -

With Loul

Robmwatt ??/1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
John Marsland ?/Aug/83 -
with Winky
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/78 AltLd
with Nicole, Kit Spencer
jon ?/Jul/75 Lead
with Lew, Elaine
granitbahn ?/Jul/75 AltLd
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