Rockfax Description
III, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. A great route with stunning exposure but make sure you catch it in the right conditions.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, head north to pass under the northwest toe of the Aiguilles Marbrées. Turn north-east and climb gently to pass between Pte. 3516 and Pte. 3537 before turning north to reach a short snow couloir dropping down from the rib which leads to the Salle à Manger. Reaching the foot of this couloir takes around 90 minutes from the Helbronner lift.
In good snow conditions, and with no one above, you can climb the couloir itself but it is safer and only marginally more technical to climb broken rock to the left. Either option brings you to a small col with a rib on the right that leads you to the Salle à Manger. Climb the rib via the line of least resistance, which will depend on snow cover and conditions but is usually on or just left of the crest. Where the crest gets steeper and more solid, near the foot of the Dent, move left and climb up to the ridge just to the right of the Salle à Manger - a flat spot just below the crest of the Rochefort Arête.
1) From the Salle à Manger, follow the snow ridge on, or just below, the crest all the way to Point 3933m. The exact route taken will depend on conditions but regardless of the snow quality, be aware of potential cornices, particularly when crossing the photogenic serac.
2) Make a 30m abseil from a fixed anchor down to a wide shoulder, or downclimb a 50 degree snow slope.
3) Follow the ridge crest to the initial rocky section and go round it on the right-hand side of the ridge. Rejoin the crest and climb to the foot of the final summit buttress.
4) 4a. Start up the buttress steeply at first, just to the right of the ridge crest before climbing a ramp which leads leftwards into the centre of the face. Come back left to a steep gully which leads (via some pretty chossy and bold-feeling climbing, 4a ) to the summit ridge, just below the top itself.
Descent - Return via the same route. The final summit buttress can be abseiled but the rock is loose, meaning that the anchors aren't what they might be. It is easy to pull rocks off so downclimbing is a better option if possible. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The normal route and often traversed prior to an ascent of Dent du Geant, which can easily be include on the return journey. The ridge is an elegant, exposed, corniced snow crest and is extremely popular. 4-5hr from hut.

Fontaine, Ravanel + Simms 17/Jul/1900

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mike Bovill 14 Sep 2nd
Hidden 25 Aug AltLd
Yunghui 15 Aug Solo
Wizzy 31 Jul AltLd O/S Wonderful route. The arête itself is not in too bad condition given it’s end of July. The same can’t be said for the approach/descent. Probably wouldn’t recommend until there’s a bit of snow up high tbh
Wonderful route. The arête itself is not in too bad condition given it’s end of July. The same can’t be said for the approach/descent. Probably wouldn’t recommend until there’s a bit of snow up high tbh
Hidden 31 Jul AltLd
Jo sumner 31 Jul AltLd
Hannah V 18 Jul 2nd Traversed the Ridge over Aiguille de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort and back to Torino hut again. Very good snow conditions & dry rock.
with Tim Neill
Traversed the Ridge over Aiguille de Rochefort and Dome de Rochefort and back to Torino hut again. Very good snow conditions & dry rock.
with Tim Neill
Hidden 17 Jul -
BenCollis 9 Jul AltLd Did in cloud, very cold. Abseil anchors are fine ignore the guide. 2hrs from start to summit. Partner was suffering from Appendicitis, he powered through like a boss.
Did in cloud, very cold. Abseil anchors are fine ignore the guide. 2hrs from start to summit. Partner was suffering from Appendicitis, he powered through like a boss.
roym 4 Jul AltLd As start of Grandes Jorasses traverse, great condition snow with the overnight freeze. Think we went a bit too far left on the rib. From the Aiguille to the Dôme was excellent and not any harder, recommend as an addition if you're moving quick.
As start of Grandes Jorasses traverse, great condition snow with the overnight freeze. Think we went a bit too far left on the rib. From the Aiguille to the Dôme was excellent and not any harder, recommend as an addition if you're moving quick.
Tom Fullen 4 Jul AltLd O/S As part of the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Dawdled and took all day to enjoy it because we knew we could. The level of exposure is bananas on some of the snow arêtes between the Aiguille and Dôme!
with roym
As part of the Grandes Jorasses traverse. Dawdled and took all day to enjoy it because we knew we could. The level of exposure is bananas on some of the snow arêtes between the Aiguille and Dôme!
with roym
mim tiller 12 Apr Solo O/S
Duffyrm 12 Sep, 2018 2nd
CameronH 11 Aug, 2018 -
with Josh Abrahams
with Josh Abrahams
Dougbart 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Adrian
with Adrian
willflewallen 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S descended into italy as didnt have time to make it to the midi. got stuck in italy with no passport. A lot of failed hitching. finally got a lift through the tunnel with some french wad chatting about pendulums on sky hooks. right old adventure.
with luke
descended into italy as didnt have time to make it to the midi. got stuck in italy with no passport. A lot of failed hitching. finally got a lift through the tunnel with some french wad chatting about pendulums on sky hooks. right old adventure.
with luke
alasdaircavaye 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Exceptionally enjoyable route. Would recommend to a friend. Access can be the tricky bit, but snow conditions good . Cloud level low on route but we were treated to breaks at the summit and decent. Took the wrong ridge down to the glacier, this was very loose and took up some time.
with Will Pettitt
Exceptionally enjoyable route. Would recommend to a friend. Access can be the tricky bit, but snow conditions good . Cloud level low on route but we were treated to breaks at the summit and decent. Took the wrong ridge down to the glacier, this was very loose and took up some time.
with Will Pettitt
Hidden 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd
James Rigby 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Great views hardly any other teams... perfect day out
with Conor
Great views hardly any other teams... perfect day out
with Conor
a_m154 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd Incredible day albeit a chilly one! hands froze and got the worse hot aches, thanks James for warming them for me! :)
Incredible day albeit a chilly one! hands froze and got the worse hot aches, thanks James for warming them for me! :)
James.houghton 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd Left hut at 2:30 and arrived at the salle a manger at 4:30 and ditched some gear. Summited at 5:30 and back at the salle a manger for 6:45. The ridge is in perfect condition and we moved together for the whole route, downclimbing as opposed to abseiling. Picked up the rock gear at the salle a manger then linked with Dent Du Geant. Summited at 12 and back as the salle a manger for 2 having got a rope stuck on descent (thank to the friendly Italian man for freeing the ropes. We owe you a pint!). Back at the hut for 4 after a slushy and chossy descent. The Bergschrund is widening constantly but was passable on the very far left side. Was a stunning 14 hour day with 2 4000m peaks. Would highly recommend for a very big day in the mountains.
Left hut at 2:30 and arrived at the salle a manger at 4:30 and ditched some gear. Summited at 5:30 and back at the salle a manger for 6:45. The ridge is in perfect condition and we moved together for the whole route, downclimbing as opposed to abseiling. Picked up the rock gear at the salle a manger then linked with Dent Du Geant. Summited at 12 and back as the salle a manger for 2 having got a rope stuck on descent (thank to the friendly Italian man for freeing the ropes. We owe you a pint!). Back at the hut for 4 after a slushy and chossy descent. The Bergschrund is widening constantly but was passable on the very far left side. Was a stunning 14 hour day with 2 4000m peaks. Would highly recommend for a very big day in the mountains.
mattdennies 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Started at 4AM, great snow conditions and nothing too challenging. Loads of fixed gear in the climbing section up to the summit. Didn't have to do any abs. 1 hour to the summit and 1 hour 15 back to the Salle A Manger. Very cold that early in the morning, we were too early to take advantage of the sun's warmth.
Started at 4AM, great snow conditions and nothing too challenging. Loads of fixed gear in the climbing section up to the summit. Didn't have to do any abs. 1 hour to the summit and 1 hour 15 back to the Salle A Manger. Very cold that early in the morning, we were too early to take advantage of the sun's warmth.
joem 25 Jun, 2018 - amazing route in good time back at the hut not long after 1
with FelixL
amazing route in good time back at the hut not long after 1
with FelixL
Hidden 25 Jun, 2018 -
ChrisH89 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd Absolutely incredible views and exposure! One I've wanted to do for a couple of years, and we got really good conditions and weather. Pleased to find it easy and to have done it in low end guidebook time, preparation for Grande Jorasses traverse perhaps...
Absolutely incredible views and exposure! One I've wanted to do for a couple of years, and we got really good conditions and weather. Pleased to find it easy and to have done it in low end guidebook time, preparation for Grande Jorasses traverse perhaps...
Alpenglow 25 Jun, 2018 Lead Awesome exposure. 4hr hut to summit.
with Joe M, FelixL, ChrisH89
Awesome exposure. 4hr hut to summit.
with Joe M, FelixL, ChrisH89
cacheson 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd Ridge is cool, summit is a pile of choss
with Jake, CalumI, JordanR
Ridge is cool, summit is a pile of choss
with Jake, CalumI, JordanR
jon@asgardbeyond.is 8 Jun, 2018 -
with Róbert Halldórsson
with Róbert Halldórsson
Hagen 7 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Eva- Maria
with Eva- Maria
Hidden 7 Jun, 2018 2nd dnf
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 -
JoeCoxson 22 Jul, 2017 Lead Only as far as point 3933 due to snow conditions
Only as far as point 3933 due to snow conditions
lukegorman 22 Jul, 2017 2nd not all the way
not all the way
seanhendo123 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Moved together all the way, perfect conditions
with Alan
Moved together all the way, perfect conditions
with Alan
mchardski 5 Jul, 2017 2nd 3hrs from Salle a manger and back - pretty ok timing.
3hrs from Salle a manger and back - pretty ok timing.
cmars89 23 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ryan Weber
with Ryan Weber
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Robin Clothier 27 Sep, 2016 -
with AmyG
with AmyG
AmyG 27 Sep, 2016 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 -
scorpia97 ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Climbed with Jess also did the Dent du Geant
Climbed with Jess also did the Dent du Geant
Pero 31 Aug, 2016 Lead
Bryan M 31 Aug, 2016 -
with Pero
with Pero
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 -
masa-alpin 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S A bit under 4 hrs from Torino hut to the summit. Went off-route at one stage (Scottish tech 5) in the approach to the ridge.
A bit under 4 hrs from Torino hut to the summit. Went off-route at one stage (Scottish tech 5) in the approach to the ridge.
perrys 12 Aug, 2016 -
with masa-alpin, Rob Goodman
with masa-alpin, Rob Goodman
robgixer 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd
benwmorgan 9 Aug, 2016 -
Hidden 8 Aug, 2016 -
mike.moss 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow 18 Jul, 2016 -
with Geoff Thomas
with Geoff Thomas
Hidden 18 Jul, 2016 -
Bserk 14 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jacob Jutrem ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
murray ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Luke
with Luke
jcw ??, 2016 -
kbow265 ??, 2016 -
jeb3496 ??, 2015 -
steve_gibbs 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf
with Pete Leeming
with Pete Leeming
zeitoun 31 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Schedule: 0500 dep. from Torino hut 0700 arr. at Salle à Manger 0930 arr. at summit 1030 dep. from summit 1200 arr. at aiguille du Géant 1400 arr. at Salle à Manger 1545 arr. Torino hut
with Olivier N.
Schedule: 0500 dep. from Torino hut 0700 arr. at Salle à Manger 0930 arr. at summit 1030 dep. from summit 1200 arr. at aiguille du Géant 1400 arr. at Salle à Manger 1545 arr. Torino hut
with Olivier N.
Pete23 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
with Stephen Mors
McGuinness 22 Aug, 2014 -
with George
with George
Tom Campbell 22 Aug, 2014 -
Roberttaylor 21 Aug, 2014 Solo Three 20m abseils and some downclimbing from the summit. Very windy and cold. 5 hours hut to hut.
Three 20m abseils and some downclimbing from the summit. Very windy and cold. 5 hours hut to hut.
mussonlr 8 Aug, 2014 -
with Steve King
with Steve King
andy_e 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
with Mike Gallimore
David Barratt ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
with OwenF
with OwenF
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 Solo
johnrich 20 Jun, 2014 -
paulmck 11 Jun, 2014 -
Piers Harley ??, 2014 AltLd
with Ewan Whitmey
with Ewan Whitmey
Hidden ??, 2014 -
david0811 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with debbie, Locky
with debbie, Locky
MrRiley 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Mind-blowing! Fantastic conditions and weather! The slog up and down to/from the salle a manger goes on a bit
with Mark Reid
Mind-blowing! Fantastic conditions and weather! The slog up and down to/from the salle a manger goes on a bit
with Mark Reid
Debbie Lee 4 Sep, 2013 -
with Lachy, Dave Marshall
with Lachy, Dave Marshall
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 -
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 15 Aug, 2013 AltLd
dbm 15 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with TP
with TP
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 -
prwalker 10 Aug, 2013 -
with wupert
with wupert
Slick 11 Jul, 2013 -
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Egons Issy
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Egons Issy
Hidden 11 Jul, 2013 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
jonnie3430 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Carol
with Carol
Carol Goodall 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Lovely ridge, narrow in places but straightforward. Weather clear and bright.
Lovely ridge, narrow in places but straightforward. Weather clear and bright.
James_L88 16 Jul, 2012 - Followed by Dent du Geant in a long day.
with Badger
Followed by Dent du Geant in a long day.
with Badger
gravity 16 Jul, 2012 2nd Amazing route! The knife edge snow arete and cornice were pristine (we were first ones there in morning after snowy, windy night) and the route had incredible exposure.
with Jerome Para
Amazing route! The knife edge snow arete and cornice were pristine (we were first ones there in morning after snowy, windy night) and the route had incredible exposure.
with Jerome Para
Finn Curry 4 Jul, 2012 2nd
with Paul Warnock
with Paul Warnock
industrialiceman 27 Jun, 2012 -
Hidden 23 Jun, 2012 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 -
Hidden 22 Aug, 2011 -
jac00 17 Aug, 2011 -
tomtom89 17 Aug, 2011 -
with jac00
with jac00
Elsier 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Moved together, beautiful ridge climb
with amy
Moved together, beautiful ridge climb
with amy
Hidden 11 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 11 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Poco Loco 1 Aug, 2011 AltLd Perfect conditions this morning, wow.
Perfect conditions this morning, wow.
BALD EAGLE 1 Aug, 2011 AltLd
with J.Pomeroy
with J.Pomeroy
mickd ?Aug, 2011 AltLd A good day out. good condt's
A good day out. good condt's
davepc ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hoyes 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S From the Torino hut, with good snow and good weather. Also with Mark and Catherine.
with Batt
From the Torino hut, with good snow and good weather. Also with Mark and Catherine.
with Batt
Batt 30 Jul, 2011 - Moving together with Mark P ad Cath J. Perfect conditions
with Hoyes
Moving together with Mark P ad Cath J. Perfect conditions
with Hoyes
edmund94 15 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Moved together. Had to assist some Austrians who sent us the wrong way on the ascent and then didn't have sufficient rope for the Ab descent. Then went on to Dent du Geant.
Moved together. Had to assist some Austrians who sent us the wrong way on the ascent and then didn't have sufficient rope for the Ab descent. Then went on to Dent du Geant.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jun, 2011 Lead
Hidden 2 Sep, 2010 AltLd
stuart34 21 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Moved together
with Kim Ladiges
Moved together
with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 20 Aug, 2010 -
mark-abz 7 Aug, 2010 -
with Alex
with Alex
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 -
jandyd05 16 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Anthony
with Anthony
Jonny M 14 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf
GiveHerHelen 14 Jul, 2010 2nd dnf
with Jonny M
with Jonny M
Cardi 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Mike Wild
with Mike Wild
mark_chal 10 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Em66 16 Jul, 2009 -
with Freg1
with Freg1
Hidden 3 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Guy Wilson ?Aug, 2008 -
with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott
with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott
Stuart Johnston 9 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Daniel Wicks 9 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure ??, 2007 -
with Luke
with Luke
Dom Goodwin 11 Jul, 2006 -
with Peter
with Peter
Hidden 11 Jul, 2006 2nd
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Floris
with Floris
bandersnatch ?Jul, 2006 Lead
with Mairi B
with Mairi B
nickdonohue ?Jul, 2006 -
with Jeff Ingman
with Jeff Ingman
Theeni ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Prior to the South Face of the Dent du Geant
with Matt Dalby
Prior to the South Face of the Dent du Geant
with Matt Dalby
jam_rich ?Aug, 2005 -
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 2004 -
with Dave
with Dave
andyinglis ?Jul, 2004 - Terrific, and combined with Dent de Geant. Also done in August on the way to Canzio bivi hut.
with Tom Dunstan, Neil Adams, Ross Barnes
Terrific, and combined with Dent de Geant. Also done in August on the way to Canzio bivi hut.
with Tom Dunstan, Neil Adams, Ross Barnes
Neil Adams ?Jul, 2004 -
Stone Muppet ??, 2004 -
Hidden 3 Aug, 2003 -
David Horwood 29 Aug, 2002 -
joe king ?Jun, 2002 -
Hidden 17 May, 2002 AltLd
tim_mcd ??, 2002 -
bandersnatch ?Jul, 1999 Lead
andy_pemberton ?Jul, 1997 - From west to summit then bailed down NNE slope as too many people ahead of us to fit in the hut before the Grandes Jorases.
with Jon Scorer
From west to summit then bailed down NNE slope as too many people ahead of us to fit in the hut before the Grandes Jorases.
with Jon Scorer
Michael ?Aug, 1996 -
Richard Weller 19 Aug, 1993 -
with Simon Currin
with Simon Currin
Hidden 3 Aug, 1989 Solo
ill_bill ?Jul, 1986 - With Loul
With Loul
Robmwatt ??, 1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
John Marsland ?Aug, 1983 -
with Winky
with Winky
Bolt Phobia ?Jul, 1978 AltLd
with Nicole, Kit Spencer
with Nicole, Kit Spencer
Hidden ?Jul, 1975 Lead
granitbahn ?Jul, 1975 AltLd
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