No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
An excellent route that is steeper than most routes of this grade but with enormous holds. Start below a prominent jutting flake. Climb up and right to gain a sloping shelf. Move left along this past the flake and head up the steep crack to a final crux move. © Rockfax
Adventure ticklist 2018 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , North Wales
User | Date | Notes | ||
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moorerocks | 4 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: I will not be convinced to lead that again. If "hostile corner" is in a guidebook again I will have more sense. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I will not be convinced to lead that again. If "hostile corner" is in a guidebook again I will have more sense. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)