Rockfax Description
Fine climbing that is sustained and well protected. Start in the back of the zawn behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack as for The Viper. Climb through a bulge to reach a crack. Traverse right for a few metres to reach a groove and climb this to a small ledge. Continue up the steep corner-crack above until you meet some stiff resistance. Dig deep and make some scary moves right until you are below a steep wall. Move up this on better holds to a small overhang and some much-needed gear. Move over the overlap via the crack, and then undercut out right to gain the base of the main corner, which is followed more easily to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist, E is for Easy... Right?

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 23 May Lead dnf
George_Surf 21 May Lead O/S Lots of climbing on this, felt hot in the afternoon sun. Did the first traverse right much to high. Also found the move off the little ledge to the break before the overhang/crack hard! Massive span off a low jug. The top felt a bit spooky, slightly run out and bridging on snappy rock. Great route, all the way
Lots of climbing on this, felt hot in the afternoon sun. Did the first traverse right much to high. Also found the move off the little ledge to the break before the overhang/crack hard! Massive span off a low jug. The top felt a bit spooky, slightly run out and bridging on snappy rock. Great route, all the way
ferdia 11 May Lead O/S
with Aggie Turlo
with Aggie Turlo
Greg Cunningham 5 May Lead O/S
with Rich Lindsay
with Rich Lindsay
Adam Booth 4 May TR rpt
Bernie L 13 Apr Lead O/S
with Henry Tyce
with Henry Tyce
JamesWilliams 12 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Archie Ball
with Archie Ball
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 -
debsb 28 May, 2018 2nd
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
Dan Hale 24 May, 2018 Lead O/S Best E3 in Wales? Felt a bit like Spanish tufas on gear.
with Will James
Best E3 in Wales? Felt a bit like Spanish tufas on gear.
with Will James
Ian Carr 1 May, 2018 2nd
with Martin
with Martin
peter.herd 21 Apr, 2018 2nd
with D Rudkin
with D Rudkin
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 Lead
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Cracking route, one of the best I've done. Felt strenuous and sustained, think I found a 6a move and a runout. The description in the Ground Up guide is rubbish considering the popularity of the route and how tricky the route finding is. This felt like my limit today, glad I didn't try anything harder! Must've been tired - 5th day on.
with Leon
Cracking route, one of the best I've done. Felt strenuous and sustained, think I found a 6a move and a runout. The description in the Ground Up guide is rubbish considering the popularity of the route and how tricky the route finding is. This felt like my limit today, glad I didn't try anything harder! Must've been tired - 5th day on.
with Leon
The old James turnbull 24 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Amazing, felt pretty soft. Which was nice
Amazing, felt pretty soft. Which was nice
The Grist 12 Aug, 2017 2nd
PaulTanton 12 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt Pretty pumpy
Pretty pumpy
soph 23 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
JendeHoxar 25 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 23 May, 2017 2nd O/S Amazing!
Amazing!
Adam Booth 23 May, 2017 Lead O/S Wow amazing.
Wow amazing.
MikePycroft 21 May, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 6 May, 2017 Lead
Hidden 6 May, 2017 2nd O/S
Mark Reeves 3 May, 2017 2nd
Dave Almond 23 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt Done clean at last.
with John Seeley
Done clean at last.
with John Seeley
pete johnson 23 Apr, 2017 2nd rpt
with geoff b
with geoff b
geoff b 23 Apr, 2017 Lead Another route that's been on the tick-list for a while. The crux took a while to fathom but got it in the end; not sure it's 6a though Misha!
Another route that's been on the tick-list for a while. The crux took a while to fathom but got it in the end; not sure it's 6a though Misha!
John sealey 23 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Dave Almond
with Dave Almond
Charlie Zephyr Booth 22 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with tim millen
with tim millen
Richard Kendrick 22 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 22 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Quality! First trad lead of the year. Several tricky bits with good rests in between and good gear. Thought the sequence to get to the juggy break below the final rooflet was 6a but perhaps I missed a hold. Ground Up topo line is misleading as it suggests going across and up to the juggy break too soon - you'd end up going through territory which sure isn't E3!
Quality! First trad lead of the year. Several tricky bits with good rests in between and good gear. Thought the sequence to get to the juggy break below the final rooflet was 6a but perhaps I missed a hold. Ground Up topo line is misleading as it suggests going across and up to the juggy break too soon - you'd end up going through territory which sure isn't E3!
pablosordo 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S first trad of the year, really pleased to top it out
first trad of the year, really pleased to top it out
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 2nd
Phil4000 25 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with Pablo
with Pablo
esther ?Mar, 2017 Lead
Adam Long 6 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Great pitch
with Jason Pickles
Great pitch
with Jason Pickles
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ben Meakin, Alex Dalton
with Ben Meakin, Alex Dalton
Chris_barr 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Did the start of the Viper then traversed across. Awful conditions.
with Rob
Did the start of the Viper then traversed across. Awful conditions.
with Rob
Avon Man 31 Jul, 2016 Lead dog A class route up some really impressive terrain. Had to rest beneath the top cracks in the horizontal break, which was pretty greasy and not quite as juggy as I needed it to be!
with Derek
A class route up some really impressive terrain. Had to rest beneath the top cracks in the horizontal break, which was pretty greasy and not quite as juggy as I needed it to be!
with Derek
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 3 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S What a route - the most strenuous thing I've not fallen off. Crux move was really hard to reach for the short. Loved it!!
What a route - the most strenuous thing I've not fallen off. Crux move was really hard to reach for the short. Loved it!!
Tom Livingstone 30 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
with Adam Russell
with Adam Russell
Hidden 30 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2016 2nd
MikePycroft 2 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt Had to climb up crack and belay to escape the tide. Bone dry
with Pete Blackburn
Had to climb up crack and belay to escape the tide. Bone dry
with Pete Blackburn
mynyddresident 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Tony P
with Tony P
Hidden 22 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure 22 May, 2016 2nd
harold walmsley 14 May, 2016 2nd O/S In perfect condition but found it quite hard. Probably rushed the crux a bit.
with Chris Calow
In perfect condition but found it quite hard. Probably rushed the crux a bit.
with Chris Calow
The Grist 14 May, 2016 2nd
Tom Doldon 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S Very nice. I was a bit hesitant maybe because I was a bit tired.
Very nice. I was a bit hesitant maybe because I was a bit tired.
Sadie ?Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Michaela T
with Michaela T
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead
Steve Long ??, 2016 Lead
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 31 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt
with Kasia
with Kasia
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
steveboote 30 Aug, 2015 2nd Found moves getting to roof stiff,.good lead from 'hidden'
with Vun Lim
Found moves getting to roof stiff,.good lead from 'hidden'
with Vun Lim
Hidden 16 Aug, 2015 2nd
Albachoss 29 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S Sustained upper wall and great moves from the ground up
with Dougie
Sustained upper wall and great moves from the ground up
with Dougie
dswansonlow 29 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
Dave Almond 19 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
with John Seeley
with John Seeley
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Rich Kirby 7 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
Adam Lincoln 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
with Rick Kirby
Duncan Campbell 29 Jun, 2014 2nd Heather went slightly off route low down but we recovered... Very hard (6a) move if you are a shorty to get to the roof. Great climbing though!
Heather went slightly off route low down but we recovered... Very hard (6a) move if you are a shorty to get to the roof. Great climbing though!
tim newton 6 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Think I went slightly the wrong way and went right out of the corner too early instead of at the roof as the short wall up to the holds under the next roof was pretty thin with some decent fall potential. There were chalked layaway holds to the left which are mentioned on gogarth wiki, I just couldn't get to them. Either way I found it pretty hard even when definitely on route. Thought it was one of the best E3 pitches I've done in north Wales.
Think I went slightly the wrong way and went right out of the corner too early instead of at the roof as the short wall up to the holds under the next roof was pretty thin with some decent fall potential. There were chalked layaway holds to the left which are mentioned on gogarth wiki, I just couldn't get to them. Either way I found it pretty hard even when definitely on route. Thought it was one of the best E3 pitches I've done in north Wales.
Rachel Slater 6 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S Awesome route, although felt pretty tough the way Tim did it!
Awesome route, although felt pretty tough the way Tim did it!
Jake Young 17 May, 2014 2nd
with mwatson
with mwatson
Andrew Wilson 3 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S superb... be wary of line on photo in Ground Up guide which is misleading...
with Andy Wilson
superb... be wary of line on photo in Ground Up guide which is misleading...
with Andy Wilson
miastacey 2 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
with Sophie Whyte
soph 2 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 2 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2013 Lead
Wil Treasure 16 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 19 Jun, 2013 Lead
pete johnson 19 Jun, 2013 2nd
Sardien 10 Jun, 2013 2nd dog Amazing, superb climbing. Messed it up but still enjoyed it very much and psyched to lead it
with nawface
Amazing, superb climbing. Messed it up but still enjoyed it very much and psyched to lead it
with nawface
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 2nd
WB 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S Brilliant route.
with GuyM
Brilliant route.
with GuyM
The_Boy_ODwyer 25 May, 2013 Lead dnf
with Robert Canavan
with Robert Canavan
mark20 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 19 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Amazing route. Climbing all the way. Pitches dont get any better than this.
with George Ullrich
Amazing route. Climbing all the way. Pitches dont get any better than this.
with George Ullrich
Rob Pitt 4 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Lee Roberts
with Lee Roberts
owain86 24 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Alun
with Alun
Dave Almond 4 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
with mux
with mux
mux 4 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
valecoastclimber 21 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 3 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Gwen Lancashire
with Gwen Lancashire
Luke Brooks 27 Mar, 2012 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 27 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome!Great climbing. Hot and sunny March evening, tops off!
Awesome!Great climbing. Hot and sunny March evening, tops off!
Luke Brooks 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 2nd
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 18 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with loundsy
with loundsy
Hidden 18 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Boy 8 Aug, 2011 Lead
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Ian Jones 24 Jul, 2011 2nd dog Disgustingly hot and an equally disgusting long reach. had to go left and up which was brutal. Surely *** though?
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Disgustingly hot and an equally disgusting long reach. had to go left and up which was brutal. Surely *** though?
with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 2nd
dan ely 23 Jun, 2011 Lead dog pussesd out above gear and jumped of
with tony (army)
pussesd out above gear and jumped of
with tony (army)
willoates 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S First route on The sea cliffs for a while, found it quite hard to read, didn't get pumped though.
with Jim Burton
First route on The sea cliffs for a while, found it quite hard to read, didn't get pumped though.
with Jim Burton
ksjs 10 May, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant! Abbed in at high tide with a boiling sea, very atmospheric. Sustained but never difficult (and very well-protected) climbing, a real pleasure.
with Paul S
Brilliant! Abbed in at high tide with a boiling sea, very atmospheric. Sustained but never difficult (and very well-protected) climbing, a real pleasure.
with Paul S
Pete Graham 30 Apr, 2011 Lead
with Rick Graham
with Rick Graham
Owain Llewelyn 28 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Steve Long 17 Apr, 2011 2nd
MikePycroft 17 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt Good pitch damp at start climbed slowly but done so good
Good pitch damp at start climbed slowly but done so good
centurion05 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 5 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
with Frank Ramsey
with Frank Ramsey
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead β
henwardian 13 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Really superb climbing, quite a meaty route for the grade. No harder than E3 but there is a lot of tricky climbing crammed into 1 pitch.
with Andy Latta
Really superb climbing, quite a meaty route for the grade. No harder than E3 but there is a lot of tricky climbing crammed into 1 pitch.
with Andy Latta
dan gibson 3 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
with nick bullock
soph ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
zero six ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Good, and quite a long pitch.
Good, and quite a long pitch.
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2009 2nd dog
MikePycroft 26 Apr, 2009 2nd
pete johnson 26 Apr, 2009 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Will1 ??, 2008 -
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
centurion05 ?Jun, 2007 2nd dog
with chris thorne
with chris thorne
Hidden 10 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 2 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
with Nick Verney
Kev Little ??, 2007 Lead O/S
mr mills ??, 2007 Lead O/S nice long route, steady.
with alun hughes
nice long route, steady.
with alun hughes
chris j 7 Jul, 2006 2nd dog
with Ben & Stu
with Ben & Stu
Rich Kirby ?Jul, 2006 Lead rpt One of Ewan's first trad routes for a whil, he fell at the bulge and lowered off. I led through on his gear...or rather his crap gear.
with Ewan
One of Ewan's first trad routes for a whil, he fell at the bulge and lowered off. I led through on his gear...or rather his crap gear.
with Ewan
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 20 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
pauldrew ??, 2005 2nd Some time in mid 2000's
Some time in mid 2000's
climbergg ??, 2005 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
Si Witcher ?Jan, 2004 Lead
with haydng
with haydng
Si Witcher ?Jan, 2004 Lead
with haydng
with haydng
Si Witcher ?Jan, 2004 Lead
with haydng
with haydng
haydng ??, 2004 2nd O/S
pete johnson ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden ??, 2003 2nd
Dave Rumney 17 Aug, 2002 2nd
steveb2006 6 May, 2002 Lead Good pitch
with Dave Taylor
Good pitch
with Dave Taylor
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
sadams 29 Jul, 2000 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
caveman_chris ?May, 1999 Lead
Hidden 20 Sep, 1998 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 9 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Bruce Kerr 4 Jul, 1998 2nd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
PaulTanton ?May, 1998 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Ched ??, 1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
crossleysm ?Jun, 1997 2nd
Hidden 18 Sep, 1996 2nd
Hidden ??, 1996 Lead
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S
pingora 8 May, 1995 2nd O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 2nd
with Jerry Peel, Dave Barton
with Jerry Peel, Dave Barton
Hidden 28 May, 1994 Lead O/S
D Tempest 30 Apr, 1994 2nd
with Rick
with Rick
Rich Kirby 28 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with Phil
with Phil
Nick Biven 27 May, 1992 Lead
with Ray Jenkins
with Ray Jenkins
Mike Owen 19 May, 1990 2nd O/S
with Rod Valentine
with Rod Valentine
Hidden 28 Apr, 1988 Lead
Hidden 28 Apr, 1988 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S 2 falls! Desperate thuggish reaches.
with Gordon Hemsley
2 falls! Desperate thuggish reaches.
with Gordon Hemsley
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set