Rockfax Description
Fine climbing that is sustained and well protected. Start in the back of the zawn behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack as for The Viper. Climb through a bulge to reach a crack. Traverse right for a few metres to reach a groove and climb this to a small ledge. Continue up the steep corner-crack above until you meet some stiff resistance. Dig deep and make some scary moves right until you are below a steep wall. Move up this on better holds to a small overhang and some much-needed gear. Move over the overlap via the crack, and then undercut out right to gain the base of the main corner, which is followed more easily to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, James' Summer Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17/Sep Lead O/S

Cracking route, one of the best I've done. Felt strenuous and sustained, think I found a 6a move and a runout. The description in the Ground Up guide is rubbish considering the popularity of the route and how tricky the route finding is. This felt like my limit today, glad I didn't try anything harder! Must've been tired - 5th day on.

with Leon
The old James turnbull 24/Aug Lead O/S

Amazing, felt pretty soft. Which was nice

The Grist 12/Aug 2nd
PaulTanton 12/Aug Lead rpt

Pretty pumpy

soph 23/Jul 2nd rpt
with Emma Twyford
JenShelley 25/Jun 2nd rpt
FlavioL1989 25/Jun Lead O/S
Ed Booth 23/May 2nd O/S

Amazing!

Adam Booth 23/May Lead O/S

Wow amazing.

Hidden 21/May Lead rpt
Hidden 06/May 2nd O/S
Mark Reeves 03/May 2nd
Dave Almond 23/Apr Lead rpt

Done clean at last.

with John Seeley
pete johnson 23/Apr 2nd rpt
geoff b 23/Apr Lead

Another route that's been on the tick-list for a while. The crux took a while to fathom but got it in the end; not sure it's 6a though Misha!

jon22 23/Apr 2nd
with Dave Almond
Charlie Zephyr Booth 22/Apr AltLd O/S
with tim millen
Richard Kendrick 22/Apr 2nd O/S
with Misha
Misha 22/Apr Lead O/S

Quality! First trad lead of the year. Several tricky bits with good rests in between and good gear. Thought the sequence to get to the juggy break below the final rooflet was 6a but perhaps I missed a hold. Ground Up topo line is misleading as it suggests going across and up to the juggy break too soon - you'd end up going through territory which sure isn't E3!

pablosordo 25/Mar Lead O/S

first trad of the year, really pleased to top it out

Hidden 25/Mar 2nd
Phil4000 25/Mar 2nd O/S
with Pablo
Adam Long 06/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Great pitch

with Jason Pickles
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Meakin, Alex Dalton
Chris_barr 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Did the start of the Viper then traversed across. Awful conditions.

with Rob
Avon Man 31/Jul/16 Lead dog

A class route up some really impressive terrain. Had to rest beneath the top cracks in the horizontal break, which was pretty greasy and not quite as juggy as I needed it to be!

with Derek
Hidden 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
JenShelley 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

What a route - the most strenuous thing I've not fallen off. Crux move was really hard to reach for the short. Loved it!!

Tom Livingstone 30/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Adam Russell
Hidden 30/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd rpt
mynyddresident 29/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tony P
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead O/S
drysori 22/May/16 2nd
harold walmsley 14/May/16 2nd O/S

In perfect condition but found it quite hard. Probably rushed the crux a bit.

with Chris Calow
The Grist 14/May/16 2nd
with Tom Doldon
Tom Doldon 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Very nice. I was a bit hesitant maybe because I was a bit tired.

Sadie ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Michaela T
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/15 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 31/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
steveboote 30/Aug/15 2nd

Found moves getting to roof stiff,.good lead from 'hidden'

with Hidden
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
Albachoss 29/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Sustained upper wall and great moves from the ground up

with Dougie
dswansonlow 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Banks
Dave Almond 19/Apr/15 Lead dog
with John Seeley
Hidden ??/2015 -
Rich Kirby 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Adam Lincoln 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/14 2nd

Heather went slightly off route low down but we recovered... Very hard (6a) move if you are a shorty to get to the roof. Great climbing though!

tim newton 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Think I went slightly the wrong way and went right out of the corner too early instead of at the roof as the short wall up to the holds under the next roof was pretty thin with some decent fall potential. There were chalked layaway holds to the left which are mentioned on gogarth wiki, I just couldn't get to them. Either way I found it pretty hard even when definitely on route. Thought it was one of the best E3 pitches I've done in north Wales.

Rachel Slater 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Awesome route, although felt pretty tough the way Tim did it!

Jake Young 17/May/14 2nd
with Mike
Andrew Wilson 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 03/May/14 Lead O/S

superb... be wary of line on photo in Ground Up guide which is misleading...

with Andy Wilson
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
miastacey 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
soph 02/Aug/13 2nd
tebs 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S

One of the best routes I've ever been on with incredible interest from start to finish; 3 stars.

with Jon
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Lead
drysori 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Sardien 10/Jun/13 2nd dog

Amazing, superb climbing. Messed it up but still enjoyed it very much and psyched to lead it

Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
WB 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant route.

with Guy
The_Boy_ODwyer 25/May/13 Lead dnf
with Robert Canavan
mark20 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route. Climbing all the way. Pitches dont get any better than this.

with George Ullrich
Rob Pitt 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Lee Roberts
owain86 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Alun
Dave Almond 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
mux 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with dra
valecoastclimber 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen Lancashire
Luke Brooks 27/Mar/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Awesome!Great climbing. Hot and sunny March evening, tops off!

with Luke
Luke Brooks 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Liam
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Boy 08/Aug/11 Lead
with Ed Brown
Ian Jones 24/Jul/11 2nd dog

Disgustingly hot and an equally disgusting long reach. had to go left and up which was brutal. Surely *** though?

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
dan ely 23/Jun/11 Lead dog

pussesd out above gear and jumped of

with tony (army)
willoates 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

First route on The sea cliffs for a while, found it quite hard to read, didn't get pumped though.

with Jim Burton
ksjs 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Abbed in at high tide with a boiling sea, very atmospheric. Sustained but never difficult (and very well-protected) climbing, a real pleasure.

with Paul S
Pete Graham 30/Apr/11 Lead
with Rick Graham
Owain Llewelyn 28/Apr/11 2nd
with Gareth E
Steve Long 17/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Frank Ramsey
Hidden 14/Aug/10 Lead β
henwardian 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really superb climbing, quite a meaty route for the grade. No harder than E3 but there is a lot of tricky climbing crammed into 1 pitch.

with Andy Latta
dan gibson 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
soph ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
zero six ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Good, and quite a long pitch.

Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Will1 ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
centurion05 ?/Jun/07 2nd dog
with chris thorne
Hidden 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
mr mills ??/2007 Lead O/S

nice long route, steady.

with alun hughes
chris j 07/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Ben & Stu
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/06 Lead rpt

One of Ewan's first trad routes for a whil, he fell at the bulge and lowered off. I led through on his gear...or rather his crap gear.

with Ewan
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
climbergg ??/2005 2nd
Tim M ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
haydng ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Si
pete johnson ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Lun
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Dave Rumney 17/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden 06/May/02 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
sadams 29/Jul/00 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/98 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 09/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with KM
Bruce Kerr 04/Jul/98 2nd
with Robert Durran
PaulTanton ?/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
crossleysm ?/Jun/97 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/96 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1996 Lead
with Tim White, Nick Dalzell
pingora 08/May/95 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/94 Lead O/S
D Tempest 30/Apr/94 2nd
with Rick
Rich Kirby 28/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Phil
Nick Biven 27/May/92 Lead
with Ray Jenkins
Mike Owen 19/May/90 2nd O/S
with Rod Valentine
jon 28/Apr/88 Lead
with H
Hidden 28/Apr/88 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S

2 falls! Desperate thuggish reaches.

with Gordon Hemsley
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 33
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set