Rockfax Description
A great route that keeps coming at you. Start in the back of the zawn, behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack. Move over the bulge to gain the crack and follow it up and past some easier terrain. Move left into another line of weakness that leads to the Viper's Head - the prominent 'V' in the roof. Move through this via the crack and follow it as it gets steeper until an exit arrives at a flake. This leads out right to the base of a groove. A tricky step back left into this leads to an easier top out. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Centrefold and follow the crackline direct and then slightly leftwards to the 'Viper' fang. Ever-steeper moves lead to a welcome rest in a niche, close to the corner of Centrefold. Pull out left across the green wall past a shallow corner and finish boldly, taking care with the rock.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Ed Booth 10 Jun 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 10 Jun Lead O/S
Dave Almond 16 May Lead rpt BMC with Tjebbe
BMC with Tjebbe
steveb2006 18 Oct, 2018 Lead Great route - quite sustained. First E4 for some time and only my second route in fallen block zawn. (The other being Centrefold 16 years earlier).
with Chris Parkin
Great route - quite sustained. First E4 for some time and only my second route in fallen block zawn. (The other being Centrefold 16 years earlier).
with Chris Parkin
Mark Stevenson 3 Jun, 2018 2nd
Richard Kendrick 3 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome route, better than Godzilla
Awesome route, better than Godzilla
peter.herd 25 May, 2018 Lead
with Will
with Will
Steve Long ??, 2018 -
Steve Long ??, 2018 -
frost 23 Jul, 2017 2nd
Dave Almond 23 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with frost
with frost
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
owain86 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S Steep and pumpy
Steep and pumpy
Misha 17 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Very good. It's all there but pretty sustained from the Viper's head to the top. Lots of bridging makes life easier but still have to pull hard in places. Gear is decent but the rock requires a careful approach (though it's actually solid apart from a couple of bits), so I'm sure it would be E4 to lead (felt E3 to second).
with eszter
Very good. It's all there but pretty sustained from the Viper's head to the top. Lots of bridging makes life easier but still have to pull hard in places. Gear is decent but the rock requires a careful approach (though it's actually solid apart from a couple of bits), so I'm sure it would be E4 to lead (felt E3 to second).
with eszter
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
eel ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Superb stand up fight after the vipers head..
Superb stand up fight after the vipers head..
Andrew Wilson 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Great, pumpy, 3-D climbing. Climbed badly on this. Shame I didn't get to go back for Magellan's before the tide came in.
Great, pumpy, 3-D climbing. Climbed badly on this. Shame I didn't get to go back for Magellan's before the tide came in.
James Oswald 13 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Brilliant, pumpy climbing.
Brilliant, pumpy climbing.
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 2nd β
Hidden 18 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
MikePycroft 30 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt Felt very good, dry
with Elfyn
Felt very good, dry
with Elfyn
JBO 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S No hard moves and fairly good gear (a bit iffy in places but there's loads if you can hang on to place it) but I think it earns the grade for how it keeps coming at you, and the bit of commitment required to move over the bulge.
No hard moves and fairly good gear (a bit iffy in places but there's loads if you can hang on to place it) but I think it earns the grade for how it keeps coming at you, and the bit of commitment required to move over the bulge.
Dan Hale 1 May, 2015 2nd O/S
with Rich Gentry, Ian Grabowski
with Rich Gentry, Ian Grabowski
Tom Livingstone 13 Mar, 2015 Lead rpt
mike lawrence? 20 Sep, 2014 2nd bit wet but pretty good and quite tiring
bit wet but pretty good and quite tiring
Tom Livingstone 30 Jul, 2014 2nd β
dan gibson 30 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tom Livingstone
with Tom Livingstone
Brown 27 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Joel
with Joel
PaulTanton 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S This is a great route and really steady. Brilliant climbing at E3 I'd say. The downward pointing fang really does look like the viper's head from below.
This is a great route and really steady. Brilliant climbing at E3 I'd say. The downward pointing fang really does look like the viper's head from below.
papashango 5 Jul, 2014 2nd β 3 stars, fantastic route!
3 stars, fantastic route!
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 22 Jun, 2014 2nd
with liam
with liam
Seymore Butt ??, 2014 2nd
with Jerry Peel, Dave Barton
with Jerry Peel, Dave Barton
Owain Llewelyn 6 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
miastacey 2 Aug, 2013 2nd
with Sophie Whyte
with Sophie Whyte
soph 2 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 5 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Rad route, a good one to 'go for it' on. Not done much routing for a long time, didn't get pumped, no hard moves and good gear all the way make me think this is probably E3. Got savage rope drag up top pulling left onto the slab, which felt fairly pointless, better to finish up the corner (better belay this way too) imo.
Rad route, a good one to 'go for it' on. Not done much routing for a long time, didn't get pumped, no hard moves and good gear all the way make me think this is probably E3. Got savage rope drag up top pulling left onto the slab, which felt fairly pointless, better to finish up the corner (better belay this way too) imo.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rich Kirby 11 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Fantastic... as good as Godzilla. 3 stars
with nige
Fantastic... as good as Godzilla. 3 stars
with nige
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Toby Dunn 12 Aug, 2009 Lead
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
MikePycroft 20 Jun, 2009 2nd
pete johnson ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 12 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
mattyork2 18 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S A fantastsic adventurous lead by John. A quality pitch.
with John Vincent
A fantastsic adventurous lead by John. A quality pitch.
with John Vincent
Will1 ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 5 May, 2002 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Ched ??, 1998 2nd
with Grant Farqhuar
with Grant Farqhuar
Hidden 22 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 1988 Lead
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 14
High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set