Rockfax Description
A very sustained and well-protected route that follows the corner-groove to the right of the large fin of rock. Start below the corner and climb it for 10m then traverse left to a good rest just below the fin. Continue up the crack/flake that leads up and right to a roof. Some thrutching leads to some hollow flakes. These enable an exit to be made from the vice-like niche to a rather fine bridged position on the lip. More steep ground needs to be covered, before you reach the sanctuary of the final easier groove. Care needed to avoid rope drag! © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

anguskille 06/Jul/17 Lead O/S


with Dan Mcmanus
Hidden 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S

Definitely not a slab!

Richard Kendrick 22/Apr/17 Lead
with Misha
Misha 22/Apr/17 2nd rpt

Second time on this. Really good. Found the bottom third fairly easy. Middle third is pretty straightforward anyway (thought not a romp). Flakes of death top third proved to be trickier that I remembered - not that physical as the holds are big and you can bridge but technical and intimidating.

mattnuttall 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Pumpy, 3d and intricate all at the same time... And quality all the way.

Andrew Wilson 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Billg 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Scary moves out onto the hanging teeth

with Will Calvert
Lenny 30/Jul/16 Lead
with Kev
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
eel 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
andyinglis 23/May/16 2nd

Great line and surprisingly pumpy, quality.

Alasdair Fulton 23/May/16 Lead O/S

Nice, adventurous fun.

Wil Treasure 23/May/16 Lead O/S
with Dunc
Hidden 22/May/16 2nd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/15 2nd rpt
nathanlee 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Greasey! Those flakes are not long for this world!

with Jack Lawledge
dswansonlow 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Will H
wi11 19/Apr/15 2nd β
with Dougie
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Rich Kirby 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Adam Lincoln 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Tom Livingstone 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 02/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Scarier that it is hard. Funky big pulling on huge hanging flakes

pete johnson 23/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Steve Long 23/Aug/14 Lead
Brown 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Joel
PaulTanton 07/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Pretty steady all the way, but I thought bold through the crux at the loose/hollow fangs. Not hard but not straightforward grab and pull climbing here. Semi soft E4

Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Wood for Trees 22/Jun/14 2nd

steady steady steaddddyyyyyyyy SQUIRM (Beta: Head Jam and don't be hungover)

with Liam P
Ram MkiV 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

just ahead of the tide and hangover

with liam
Misha 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Some hard moves on so-so gear in the initial crack, then a bit damp going under the roof. Easy and pleasant up the ramp. Eszter belayed below the final roof so I got to do that. Intimidating but fairly straightforward, just don't pull too hard on those flakes!

with Eszter
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Nicole Almond 25/Aug/13 2nd dog

Done purely because dad had no other partner there to do it with. I felt like it was more of a 'haul' rather than 'climb' route. With it being 3 grades above my ability I seriously questioned why I agreed to follow dad up. The things you do for family.

with Dad
Dave Almond 24/Aug/13 Lead dog

Sustained. Ran out of gear on the overlap and then ran out of steam

soph 28/Jul/13 2nd
with Jonny Dawes
Alex Mason 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Great varied climbing. Larvely.

with Jemma Powell
soph 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Nov/11 Lead O/S
samrad 22/Nov/11 2nd
with ben ballsford
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
frost 05/Jul/11 2nd
with D Almond, D Garry
Dave Almond 05/Jul/11 2nd
mux 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nice climbing up until just below the roof ..then it gets a bit thugy. Thought the Fangs would be the crux but they are fine, Easy to the top.

with Dave Almond, Simon Frost
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Owain Llewelyn 10/Oct/10 Lead
with Gareth E
dan gibson 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
TomPR 27/May/10 Lead
Dr Toph 13/May/10 Lead O/S

Great airy position through the roof!

with Ed
ksjs 08/May/10 Lead O/S

great trad! all pretty steady but found the traverse rightwards to niche under roof trickier than it looked. bring lots of gear - i took and placed about 20 draws and it didnt feel / look over-geared. totally recommended. Fr 6b

with owen
switch 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 12/Aug/09 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead
pete johnson ?/Jun/09 2nd
Will1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
switch ??/2006 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Hugh
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 19/Mar/05 2nd
with Tuffty Nick
Gus 08/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/98 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with KM
PaulTanton ?/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Sep/96 2nd
with mark kendrick, Al Willoner
nokishatov 01/Jul/95 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Jul/95 2nd O/S
with mik
Seymore Butt ??/1995 Lead
with Dave Barton, Jerry Peel
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
wynaptomos ?/Apr/89 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ?/Sep/86 -
Hidden 27/Jul/84 Lead
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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