Rockfax Description
A steady route that feels a little bold. Start as for Little Queenie to the ledge at about 10m. Move out right to the arete along a break-line and follow a flake in the arete in a splendid position to another smaller ledge. Move back left and climb the centre of the final slab to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 28/Nov/17 Lead
tuftynick 25/Nov/17 Lead
Andrew Sloan 18/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Very bold first 10m. A couple of very tenuous slings might prevent a ground fall. Nice climbing, never harder than 5a. Worth E1 for the serious start.

with pete
Tom Livingstone 14/Sep/17 2nd rpt
with Matija Volonta
*superchilled 30/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Gareth
Duncan Campbell 30/Aug/17 2nd rpt
The old James turnbull 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Michael Morrell 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
paul79 12/Aug/17 2nd
ClimberPentir 05/Aug/17 Lead

Good route, poor gear at the bottom

with Gareth
Alex Riley 05/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Tprebs
tprebs 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Seemed fairly soft. Enjoyable upper wall though

benw681 12/Jul/17 Lead
with Yuki
Colin Scotchford 10/Jul/17 2nd
nokishatov 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
James Beaumont 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Easy but friable, don't want to be yarding on some of the holds

with James Williams
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 09/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Fay Manners
Pete_Frost 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Very pleasant, technically straightforward but no decent gear until the in-situ Herring Gull. The "Thank God" spike is now loose, so no gear behind there any more! E1 because of the seriousness only, IMHO.

manwithacam 21/May/17 Lead

Nice climb, at start of day before the crowds arrived!

with Mark Grist
The Grist 21/May/17 2nd rpt
with Dan Metcalfe
wynaptomos 21/May/17 Lead O/S
Louvet 18/May/17 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Dave Almond 23/Apr/17 Lead

So good just have to repeat

with John Seeley
John sealey 23/Apr/17 2nd
with Dave Almond
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt
Charlie Zephyr Booth 22/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with tim millen
scottcoates 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with williap
williap 17/Apr/17 2nd
Phil4000 12/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Bold lower portion, nice climbing throughout.

with William brains brant
davkeo 10/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/17 Lead
Bloke on a Rope 01/Apr/17 2nd β

Although a bit easier than Little Queenie I'd say that this was the better route, I f*cking love slabs me!

with Matt
Climbster 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S

V. pleasant after the damp start

with Ian
BrendanR 27/Mar/17 2nd
mcgovern 27/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/17 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/17 2nd
shed_hed 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Nice. Hold stepping off the floor.

with Luke Brooks
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead
Luke Brooks 25/Mar/17 2nd
esther ?/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden ??/2017 -
Frances Bensley 25/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route, nice face climbing at the beginning. Start felt bold, especially as one of the crucial holds at about 9m felt slightly wobbly; otherwise pretty steady!

with Alice Bensley
perrys 24/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Tim Lowe
Hidden ?/Oct/16 2nd
Misha 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Pleasant but too slabby to be a decent warm up. E1 for the bold start and sparse / questionable gear thereafter.

with Eszter
fuzzysheep01 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Nice route with a slightly bold start.

John sealey 27/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
pauldrew 13/Aug/16 Lead
with Anjali Pande
GeoffG 11/Aug/16 Lead
with tim lowe
Hidden 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S
DaveThexton 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Tom
smallerrich ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Steve
Avon Man 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Derek
mynyddresident 17/Jul/16 Lead
with KP
Hidden 16/Jul/16 2nd
Colin Scotchford 16/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
alexjz 27/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Sam Farmsworth
Alison Cairns 11/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Katy
Hidden 11/Jun/16 2nd rpt
alexjz 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Finished up the groove by mistake. Good route. Start doesn't feel bold as climbing is secure

with Rob Partridge, Tom Nichols
Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd rpt
Butel 29/May/16 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 28/May/16 Lead O/S
lcullum7 28/May/16 2nd O/S
Katsmiff 22/May/16 2nd O/S

Easy for the grade. This crag is good for the ego.

Martin Bagshaw 22/May/16 Lead O/S

Would have done the left hand line but a fight with a seagul with some shitty nuts beneath me wouldn't have been too wise a choice.

with Ed Green, Catherine Smith
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead rpt
geoff b 22/May/16 2nd

Not over-endowed with gear in the lower half!

Brannock 22/May/16 Lead rpt
Chriswallis2 21/May/16 Lead β

clipped Mike's gear

with Mike W
Mike W 21/May/16 Lead O/S
with chris
harold walmsley 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Lovely route but no worthwhile gear on the initial wall

with Chris Calow
The Grist 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
Tom Doldon 14/May/16 2nd O/S


Martin Haworth 09/May/16 Lead rpt

Was planning to do Waxwing but there was an angry gull on the left side of the mid way ledge so I scuttled right and did this route instead.

with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 09/May/16 2nd
wi11 03/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/May/16 Lead
Tony Holdsworth 23/Apr/16 2nd
Martin Haworth 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Very soft for E1

with Tony
Brannock 23/Apr/16 2nd
JamesWilliams 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Bold start had to be a bit careful on the wet sections awesome above

adamre12 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Great route not too hard.

Rob Pitt 16/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
robpartridge 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
GraMc 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with rob
SAF 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
spragglerocks 02/Sep/15 Lead O/S
David Kay 02/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd
mynyddresident 11/Aug/15 Lead
with KP
Hidden 02/Aug/15 -
ashtond6 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

E1 5a. I thought it was dangerous but awesome

neal 03/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Paul led. Good route, small-med wires and cams. Steady, good holds keep coming.

with Chris S
JBO 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
garywong 23/May/15 2nd O/S
dprctr 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Full on dangerous start to this route. Nice and steady higher up. Did this route cos the bird was in the way!

pebbles 16/May/15 2nd
with Liz
Dizz 16/May/15 Lead rpt

Meant to do Waxwing but a sea gull was nesting on it!

with peri
Dave Almond 19/Apr/15 2nd
with John Seeley
RM199 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Andy Clarke 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Did this after Little Queenie: felt much more relaxed so of course the climbing felt much easier! A lovely warm day in early April, with just a touch of ghostly sea mist for atmosphere.

with Johnny
Sadie 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
steveboote 06/Sep/14 Lead

With Agnes Kowall and 'Hidden'

Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 23/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Mike_Hayes 23/Aug/14 Lead
pauldrew 22/Aug/14 Lead
pete johnson 22/Aug/14 -
Tom Livingstone 30/Jul/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Livingstone
Delyth 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 18/Jul/14 2nd
with Delyth
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S
farmus21 17/Jul/14 2nd
with Sam Farnsworth
Helen Gibson 17/Jul/14 Lead
with Al Palmer
theotherpetehill 14/Jul/14 2nd
chrisallan 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 07/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/14 2nd β
duncandarnell 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jake Young 17/May/14 Lead

went abit of route on this i think.

with Mike
switch 02/May/14 2nd
with Will, Leanne
surfer38 27/Apr/14 2nd
guy757 24/Apr/14 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 30/Aug/13 2nd β
Katya 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 24/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Felt a bit pushy at the start, but easier and very fun above.

with Andy
Chris Reid 03/Aug/13 2nd
with Rob Muirhead
miastacey 02/Aug/13 2nd
with Sophie Whyte
tebs 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S

See comments for Savage Sunbird..

with Jon
Ched 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Mills
Matt Harle 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Keeves
BigTone 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S


a pedley 06/Jun/13 Lead
with Jim Burton
will9911 26/May/13 Lead O/S
steven 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Will Taylor
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Dizz 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with EJ
Tarquin 16/May/13 2nd
Anthony Dixon 16/May/13 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 09/May/13 2nd
with Doddy
Sardien 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Natasha Brooks
wi11 12/Apr/13 Lead O/S

bold but soft

tim newton 29/Mar/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
jezb1 11/Mar/13 2nd

Really nice route, would like to lead this route

tim newton 11/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 03/Sep/12 2nd
with Colin
Andrew Wilson 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Ellis Bird ?/Aug/12 -
Bennykr 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Lenny 07/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Phil .N
KittySupreme 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Wet first pitch, my first E1 but it felt easy, enough gear even though some of it's runout

with Max
Nicole Almond 05/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Sore throat and full of cold but still really enjoyed the climb and managed to finish successfully. Good, fun, enjoyable route, didn't have any worrying moments which made a change! a bit wet at the bottom, not to much gear on the first bit either but improved after the start. Good to get it done with my dad in the sun:)

with Dad
mux 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Adam
Dave Almond 04/Jun/12 Lead
A Crook 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Bold and pretty much (effective gear)gearless till you reach the break, although the climbing pretty straight forward.

Lenny 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with James W
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
davebrox ?/May/12 Lead
Timo Austino 22/Apr/12 Lead

great bit of climbing - the bottom part is pretty bold but the holds are all there and postive - a wee bit wet before the break but otherwise highligh recommended

with Annie, Colon
Luke Brooks 27/Mar/12 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Luke
Hidden 15/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
adie84 ??/2012 -
Duncan Campbell 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Really fun face climbing! A tad bold at the start but then steady climbing with some runouts above good gear. Dropped the ropes, walked round and seconded Ollie up it!

with Ollie B
Ollie B 06/Nov/11 Lead β

belayed duncan pulled ropes and led. really cool moves in one part, rest oright.

with D.Campbell
Hidden 01/Oct/11 -
Luke Brooks 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Liam
Drew M 25/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
markalmack 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with katie garrett
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd
tlmarjot 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Chris Todd
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead
Paul Figg 15/Aug/11 Lead
with Rachel Antill
Cardi 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Tom R
gforce 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
centurion05 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Dangerous Dave Murphy
LC ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
owain86 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S

E1 5a

chriscarroll 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice bold start, easy moves throughout the cool face climbing

givemetea 19/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Vince
3 Names 19/Jul/11 2nd
mux 05/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Dave Almond, Simon Frost
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/11 Lead O/S
al99 11/May/11 AltLd O/S

Don't think there is a single 5b move on the route, the gear is not very convincing though. E1 5a?

with Dave Gleave
laurelfan 10/May/11 2nd
with Sophie
Gezzer 01/May/11 2nd

Great face climbing on positive holds, good footwork needed.

Hidden 01/May/11 Lead
RachelP 25/Apr/11 2nd

nice! looking forward to leading

mynyddresident 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Good climbing on great holds, gear pants at start and suspect at end

with tony
ksjs 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S

2 bits of OK gear on initial wall but no gear proper until horizontal break, lower wall felt slightly bold but ultimately steady. A bit of route finding needed on upper sections. Sufficient gear, just, throughout. Clean open climbing, very good indeed.

with Jim
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Alex Auty ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
benchwarmer 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
barni 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Ewan
henwardian 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really nice climb. Definitely deserves 2 stars. Beautiful rock, perfect crimpy wall climbing, nicely protected, perhaps only lacking a bit in the defined line department.

with Andy Latta
HIGHTOWER 02/Jun/10 2nd

Very nice climbing.

with Dave Gleave
RachelP 03/May/10 2nd
with Jamie
zero six ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S

E1 5a

Ows ?/Mar/10 Lead
hervenuttall ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Steve
david morse 23/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with lole
Hidden 21/Jan/10 Lead rpt
soph ??/2010 -
mattyork2 28/Oct/09 2nd
with Johnny Richard
briar4012 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 07/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/09 2nd O/S
givemetea 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Libby Peter
Wood for Trees 25/Aug/09 2nd

hard start, top wall is amazing. will be back for this and the sunbird.

with Al and Steve
Alex Mason 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Hard scary start, but awesome vs wall climbing thereafter

with Guy VG
Ram MkiV 25/Aug/09 Lead β
with al & guy
Chad123 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Jo sandbagged Sam badly on this as no gear for 8m including one of the hardest moves on the pitch, quite nice steep wall climbing though....

with Sam and Jo
dicky79 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Bottomley
jored 25/Jul/09 2nd
with Ryan
mulletcocktail2000 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

qite cheeky for e1. poorly protected 5b moves with no gear for 8m! steady climbing above with poor gear for the remaining.

with john
PaulTanton 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Carly 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden 11/Jun/09 2nd
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
miastacey 03/May/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
Hidden 03/May/09 -
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd
pete johnson 26/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd rpt
metal arms 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Ched 19/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd
mattyork2 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with John Vincent
Owain Llewelyn 23/Jul/08 Lead
with Dad
Hidden 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
hookface 02/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
jimbobimbo ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gro
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Coel Hellier ?/Sep/07 Lead
C@rwyn 21/Aug/07 TR O/S
with Heather and Lee
HeatherF 21/Aug/07 TR
with Lee and Carwyn
Brown 23/Jun/07 2nd β
with Max
mux ??/2007 2nd
Owain Llewelyn ?/Oct/06 Lead
with Dad
Hidden 21/Aug/06 2nd
Ewan Russell 02/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with harry+stu
Dale ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S

plaesed with this thouht easy for the grade run out at the start just keep your head. Wax wing is a better combo, takes in the bottom crux and a more sustained top corner superb

with johny
chris j 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Bradford
Hidden 29/May/06 Lead O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/04 Lead
Chesh ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Lawrence
Samuel P 25/Aug/03 2nd
with Ric the Guide, Gareth
Hidden 25/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 2nd
NeilGriffiths ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
ZA ?/Aug/01 2nd
with Eggy, dad
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 02/May/99 -
with Cec
Rich Kirby ?/May/99 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
mikej 31/Jul/98 Lead
with M
craig h 11/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
mikej 09/Jul/98 TR
with R
pete johnson 21/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Lun
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/97 2nd
michael burrows 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with steve ward
alan moore ??/1997 -

Nice and easy.

DanEm ?/Aug/95 Lead
with Graeme Emery
DanEm ?/Aug/95 Lead
with Graeme Emery
Hidden 20/May/95 Lead O/S
pingora 07/May/95 2nd O/S
with Rob L
Cowflinger ?/May/95 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/95 Lead
D Tempest 30/Apr/94 Lead
with Rick
Steve Crowe 17/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
Andy Say 03/May/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/91 2nd
Mike Owen 13/May/90 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
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High 5a
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