Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which is just about worth E3.
1) 4c, 10m. Start as for Icarus.
2) 5c, 28m. Traverse left along the ledge until it runs out. A committing move left into the base of the hanging corner - usually wet - is followed by more sustained climbing up the corner (the crux is passing the overlap) until you eventually reach a plinth on the right. Easier climbing up the continuation of the groove leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 20 For 2017.

JBO 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/16 -
fuzzysheep01 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Led easy approach pitch. Brilliant, sustained but never too hard main pitch.

DubyaJamesDubya 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great route.

Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Meakin, Alex Dalton
Chris_barr 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S

great, found it pretty intimidating

DaveThexton 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with josh
Hidden 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Dan Vaj 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Elliot Walker 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Pete
pete johnson 21/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Elliot
i_a_coops 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Robbie
mynyddresident 17/Jul/16 Lead
with KP
JenShelley 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Another great climb this weekend. Super good route!

with Mike H
Andy Peak 1 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Very good climbing very safe

jonleighton 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Neilaw 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Dave r
Tom Livingstone 30/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Adam Russell
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S
alexjz 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Cruised it! What a great route

with Sam Farmsworth
eel 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S
JamesWilliams 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Mega! bit scary going round the corner but good holds, some good bridging rests, tricky couple of crux moves then when you get to the ledge on the right the main difficulties are over First E3 onsight not on slate

adamre12 10/Jun/16 2nd dog
cem 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Kirill 30/May/16 2nd
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd
mynyddresident 29/May/16 Lead rpt
with Tony P
charlietorrance 22/May/16 2nd O/S

amazing! pumpy, safe.

Hidden 22/May/16 2nd rpt
geoff b 22/May/16 Lead

A long time since I seconded this one & I forgot to bridge the crux sequence until it was almost too late. What a great climb; well protected, varied & quite technical.

Chriswallis2 21/May/16 Lead O/S

Gripped on this. Felt like the hardest thing I've ever climbed.

with Mike W
Martin Haworth 09/May/16 Lead O/S

Superb. Crack was wet at the bottom but didn't make any difference. Surprisingly pumpy route, not helped by warm muggy weather, very pleased to climb it clean.

with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 09/May/16 2nd dog

One rest

kyaizawa 02/May/16 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley, Luke Cullum
lcullum7 02/May/16 2nd dnf
Tubs 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

I didn't find the traverse very hard but getting to the first good jam above the overlap was pretty sketchy. First E3 of the year (even though it is probably E2: 5c with rests and safe as houses).

with AJM
Ed Babs 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

P1 approach pitch

AJM 24/Apr/16 2nd β
FlavioL1989 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

I "lead" "pitch" 1 (ha). Seconding syndrome made p2 quite hard.

MichaelGallimore 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Really nice crux sequence, ended up in all sorts of twisty positions.

with Flavio
mcgovern 17/Mar/16 Lead
with joe ucc
Hidden ??/2016 -
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
Hidden 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S
net 14/Oct/15 2nd dog

As in, hotter than the surface of...

with George
Rachel Slater 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice funky corner.

tim newton 27/Sep/15 2nd rpt
robpartridge 26/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
soph 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Pablo Martin
mynyddresident 11/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/15 -
ashtond6 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Albert Exley 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S


with Jon
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead
jalqazzaz 09/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd
morganator 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with International Meet Guest
masa-alpin 11/May/15 Lead O/S

The crack, particularly the lower part, was soaking wet. Very soft for the grade? I had to crawl when topped out, as it was very windy.

with Dennis van Hoek
Dan724 01/May/15 Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry, Ian Grabowski
wi11 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch. Awesome climb. Couple of tricky section but safe moves

with Dougie
dswansonlow 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Will H
Owain Llewelyn 10/Apr/15 Lead
with Gareth E
Tom Livingstone 13/Mar/15 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
markalmack 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Lessworkmoreclimbing 15/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Didn't find this too bad - to second!! Lovely location.

with Kev
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 02/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Ed Booth 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with nic
Mike_Hayes 23/Aug/14 Lead
Thunderthighsontheloose 23/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/14 2nd
pete johnson 13/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lun
PaulTanton 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
mynyddresident 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Ally Smith 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
Ram MkiV 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with liam
Justin T 18/Jun/14 2nd

Tough crux and pumpy.

with Nick B
Hidden 15/Jun/14 -
Misha 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Great route, really enjoyable once established in the corner/groove system. Getting into it is the hard bit and it isn't that well protected so I can see this being E3 but we thought more like a hard E2.

with Eszter
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead
C coldwell-storry 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
James Oswald 04/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead after doing hypodermic. Excellent but bog standard E2.

misterb ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
with justin
Jake Young 17/May/14 2nd
with Mike
mattnuttall 03/May/14 2nd O/S

great route

with Andy Wilson
Andrew Wilson 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Nuttall
switch 02/May/14 Lead rpt
with Will, Leanne
guy757 24/Apr/14 -
tebs 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Classy. Crux took a bit of working out. Seems like there's too methods. 1) Float up the crimps wondering what all the fuss is about (Sadie) and 2) Decide the crimps are too small for human use and get elbow deep in the crack instead (me). I found this surprisingly sequency for a wide crack!

with Sadie, Adam
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
victim of mathematics 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Pumpy, with a really cool, sequency crux. Brilliant positions. Led easy P1.

with Andy
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ramon Marin 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Pretty pumpy as was wet

with ciaran tracey
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
The Grist 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Paula lockett
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
will9911 26/May/13 Lead O/S
steven 26/May/13 2nd dog
with Will Taylor
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 25/May/13 Lead
with Colin
Dizz 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with EJ
Owain Llewelyn 09/May/13 Lead rpt
with Doddy
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd rpt
mark20 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
neilh ??/2013 -
Cardi 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great line, good moves. Less strenuous than it looks. First E3 if it really is E3!

with Tom R
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 29/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with loundsy
Bennykr 21/Jul/12 Lead β

on duncan's gear, felt steady.

with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Felt really light-headed and lacking in balance before setting off. Bit wet at the bottom but not too bad, great sustained climbing up to the ledge then it eases off. not sure whether its hard E2 or soft E3.

Sardien 20/May/12 2nd dog

A lot of Umpf! but what a position to be in!

with Andy Scott
Lenny 19/May/12 Lead β
with James W
gforce 14/May/12 Lead
with Adrian
AC1 14/May/12 2nd
with gforce
Tom Livingstone 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden ??/2012 -
Luke Brooks 28/Sep/11 2nd
with Liam
quiffhanger 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
david morse 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

led p2, lost a red camalot. GUTTED! Excellent pitch

with lole
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Owain Llewelyn 03/Aug/11 Lead
with Andy
centurion05 03/Aug/11 2nd

Good climb, steep wee route but not pumpy because you can bridge up it. E2, never E3.

with Owain
LC ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route. great, steep corner. Stout for E2.

owain86 20/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Really good, hard.

mux 05/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Just as good second time.

with Dave Almond, Simon Frost
Dave Almond 05/Jul/11 Lead

Fun in the sun.

Adam Lincoln 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
al99 11/May/11 AltLd O/S

Great! Hard for E2, take big gear then it would be safe as houses.

with Dave Gleave
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/May/11 Lead rpt
with Becky McGovern
ksjs 10/May/11 2nd rpt
with Paul S
laurelfan 10/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Pippa 02/May/11 Lead
with Jon
haydng 01/May/11 2nd rpt
with Rob
mynyddresident 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Tricky upper corner section.

with tony
alkira ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
lukehunt 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Dewhurst
Owain Llewelyn 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Gareth E
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
barni 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with andy Psyche, Glyn
Glyn 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
schof 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 13/Jul/10 Lead

Ace climbing!

with Dad
Lenny 03/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Kev, James. D
dan gibson 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Awesome line! Gear on demand so probs hard but safe E2. I assume bottom of groove is always wet (not rained in a while but was still seepin) so take that into account. Feels very steep but rests available. ace.

soph ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Dr Toph 13/May/10 2nd O/S

Lovely flowing climbing, good holds and rests where you need them.

with Ed
nick arding 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 08/May/10 2nd
with Nick Arding
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
geoff b 27/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Steve
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Jus 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
givemetea 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Libby Peter
frost 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 17/Sep/09 2nd

pulled on gear on crux.i blame the chemo.

Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S
billb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jus
Chad123 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Superb route - one of the best E3s I've done (or is it hard E2?) - exposed groove full of gear and mostly bridging hard section which isn't too bad if you think about it. Sam made a lot of noise seconding!!

with Sam and Jo
Hidden 01/Aug/09 Lead dnf
PaulTanton 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
Hidden 03/May/09 -
miastacey 03/May/09 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch

with Bob Smith
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mike
kingholmesy ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Led main second pitch

with Andy S
morganator 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Stan Halstead and Es Tressider
mattyork2 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Technical and powerful. A brilliant line.

with Eira Jepson
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd dog
Nicos 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

superb and worth E3 - moving round into the slimey groove and placing gear during crux make this physically demanding. great moves through the crux

with geraldine
mr mills ??/2008 Lead O/S

stiff for E2 !

with ioan d
Will1 ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
JM ??/2008 Lead O/S
guyblackwood 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Lee
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Awesome. Felt like hard work. E3 for sure. Drew some blood.

with Ben Steel
Brown 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
mux ??/2007 Lead O/S
with James Hubbard
Phill Mitch ??/2007 Lead O/S
with mick
ThomN ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
chris j 07/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
ellis ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Dan Rowles
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 19/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
nickdonohue 01/Aug/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
haydng ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Hidden ??/2003 -
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 Lead

Maybe my climbing high point! Great climb

with Steve Hastings
Gus 01/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
pete johnson 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Dave Wills
Rich Kirby ??/2000 Lead rpt
with Robin
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead O/S

A horrible cold windy day but a good route.

with Karen Ghiselli
WB 06/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with Nicola
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1998 2nd
with Albert, James Hubbard
ColinD ?/Aug/97 2nd
with Hanna
sadams 15/Jun/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
michael burrows 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with steve ward
Hidden 20/Sep/96 Lead O/S
phardman 07/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/96 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/96 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1996 Lead
with Tim White, Nick Dalzell
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
pingora 07/May/95 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Apr/95 2nd
with Martin Reynard
nokishatov 18/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
ste_d 18/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
steve taylor ?/Jun/94 -
with Jim Waddington
D Tempest 30/Apr/94 2nd
with Rick
crossleysm ?/Apr/94 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 19/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Steve Crowe 17/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
Rich Kirby 28/Jun/93 2nd
with Phil
Hidden 21/Aug/92 2nd
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Nick Biven 17/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Tim Snaith
Bruce Kerr 19/May/91 Lead
with Perric Crellin
ukb shark ??/1991 Lead O/S

year a guess

with Nige White
Mike Owen 07/May/90 Lead O/S
with Mike Twid Turner
wynaptomos ?/Apr/90 2nd O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S


with Gordon Hemsley
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 77
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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