Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which is just about worth E3.
1) 4c, 10m. Start as for Icarus.
2) 5c, 28m. Traverse left along the ledge until it runs out. A committing move left into the base of the hanging corner - usually wet - is followed by more sustained climbing up the corner (the crux is passing the overlap) until you eventually reach a plinth on the right. Easier climbing up the continuation of the groove leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 20 For 2017.


ClimberDateStyle
phildawson 26/May 2nd O/S
with Chris Shepherd
wynaptomos 21/May 2nd rpt
James Beaumont 21/May 2nd

No particularly hard moves but quite sustained until the rest

with Trystan Lowe
Hidden 14/May Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May 2nd rpt
Smith42 03/May Lead O/S
with kerry
Hidden 03/May 2nd
Hidden 28/Apr Lead O/S
pete johnson 23/Apr Lead rpt
geoff b 23/Apr 2nd

Such a lovely route for the canny climber.

Dave Almond 23/Apr 2nd rpt

Good insight lead by John

with John Seeley
jon22 23/Apr Lead
with Dave Almond
Hidden 23/Apr Lead rpt
Charlie Zephyr Booth 22/Apr AltLd O/S
with tim millen
Richard Kendrick 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Misha
Misha 22/Apr 2nd rpt

Second time seconding this and first trad route of the season. Very enjoyable and fairly easy for the grade. Bottom of the crack was seeping but that didn't matter as you can largely avoid it.

mattnuttall 21/Apr AltLd rpt
with Alan Holden
scottcoates 17/Apr Lead O/S
with williap
williap 17/Apr 2nd dog
davkeo 10/Apr Lead O/S

3 stars. Brilliant.

timmyfuckinmiller 10/Apr 2nd O/S

Really nice, even worth logging as a second

Will Maness 07/Apr 2nd
anguskille 02/Apr Lead O/S
with Bunney
John Bunney 02/Apr TR dnf

It kicked my ass!

with angus
Dave Almond 01/Apr 2nd rpt
with Liam Gaston
Bloke on a Rope 01/Apr Lead O/S

Proper! My 1st E3 of the year . This would make a good 1st E3 in general as the gear is excellent and the climbing is never too hard just sustained in the bottom half, but after the jamming crux it's a stroll really. I just soloed the first pitch onto the ledge, not one to mess up but very easy.

with Matt
PaulTanton 26/Mar Lead rpt

Still good

with Tom Doldon
shed_hed 25/Mar 2nd O/S

Nice, with one tricky and committing move.

with Luke Brooks
Phil4000 25/Mar Lead O/S
with Pablo
Luke Brooks 25/Mar Lead rpt
JBO 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/16 -
fuzzysheep01 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Led easy approach pitch. Brilliant, sustained but never too hard main pitch.

DubyaJamesDubya 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great route.

Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Meakin, Alex Dalton
Chris_barr 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S

great, found it pretty intimidating

Hidden 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with josh
Dan Vaj 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Elliot Walker 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Pete
pete johnson 21/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Elliot
i_a_coops 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Robbie
mynyddresident 17/Jul/16 Lead
with KP
Andy Peak 1 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Very good climbing very safe

JenShelley 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Another great climb this weekend. Super good route!

pablosordo 02/Jul/16 2nd O/S

hard

Neilaw 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Dave r
jonleighton 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 30/Jun/16 2nd rpt
with Adam Russell
alexjz 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Cruised it! What a great route

with Sam Farmsworth
eel 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/16 Lead O/S
adamre12 10/Jun/16 2nd dog
JamesWilliams 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Mega! bit scary going round the corner but good holds, some good bridging rests, tricky couple of crux moves then when you get to the ledge on the right the main difficulties are over First E3 onsight not on slate

cem 30/May/16 Lead O/S
Kirill 30/May/16 2nd
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead
Hidden 30/May/16 2nd
mynyddresident 29/May/16 Lead rpt
with Tony P
Hidden 22/May/16 2nd rpt
charlietorrance 22/May/16 2nd O/S

amazing! pumpy, safe.

geoff b 22/May/16 Lead

A long time since I seconded this one & I forgot to bridge the crux sequence until it was almost too late. What a great climb; well protected, varied & quite technical.

Chriswallis2 21/May/16 Lead O/S

Gripped on this. Felt like the hardest thing I've ever climbed.

with Mike W
Martin Haworth 09/May/16 Lead O/S

Superb. Crack was wet at the bottom but didn't make any difference. Surprisingly pumpy route, not helped by warm muggy weather, very pleased to climb it clean.

with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 09/May/16 2nd dog

One rest

lcullum7 02/May/16 2nd dnf
kyaizawa 02/May/16 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley, Luke Cullum
FlavioL1989 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Tubs 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

I didn't find the traverse very hard but getting to the first good jam above the overlap was pretty sketchy. First E3 of the year (even though it is probably E2: 5c with rests and safe as houses).

with AJM
AJM 24/Apr/16 2nd β
Ed Babs 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

P1 approach pitch

MichaelGallimore 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Really nice crux sequence, ended up in all sorts of twisty positions.

with Flavio
mcgovern 17/Mar/16 Lead
with joe ucc
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S
net 14/Oct/15 2nd dog

As in, hotter than the surface of...

with George
tim newton 27/Sep/15 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice funky corner.

robpartridge 26/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/15 2nd
soph 15/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Pablo Martin
mynyddresident 11/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/15 -
ashtond6 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Albert Exley 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Awesome

with Jon
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead
jalqazzaz 09/Jul/15 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd
morganator 16/May/15 2nd rpt
with International Meet Guest
masa-alpin 11/May/15 Lead O/S

The crack, particularly the lower part, was soaking wet. Very soft for the grade? I had to crawl when topped out, as it was very windy.

with Dennis van Hoek
Dan724 01/May/15 Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry, Ian Grabowski
dswansonlow 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Will H
wi11 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Done in one pitch. Awesome climb. Couple of tricky section but safe moves

with Dougie
Owain Llewelyn 10/Apr/15 Lead
with Gareth E
Tom Livingstone 13/Mar/15 2nd rpt
HAJ Francis ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
markalmack 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Lessworkmoreclimbing 15/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Didn't find this too bad - to second!! Lovely location.

with Kev
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 02/Sep/14 2nd rpt
wolf.leeb 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with nic
Thunderthighsontheloose 23/Aug/14 2nd
Mike_Hayes 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pete johnson 13/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lun
PaulTanton 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
Ally Smith 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
mynyddresident 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Ram MkiV 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with liam
Justin T 18/Jun/14 2nd

Tough crux and pumpy.

with Nick B
Rob Grant 15/Jun/14 -
Misha 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Great route, really enjoyable once established in the corner/groove system. Getting into it is the hard bit and it isn't that well protected so I can see this being E3 but we thought more like a hard E2.

with Eszter
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead
C coldwell-storry 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
James Oswald 04/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead after doing hypodermic. Excellent but bog standard E2.

misterb ?/Jun/14 Lead dog
with justin
Jake Young 17/May/14 2nd
with Mike
Andrew Wilson 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 03/May/14 2nd O/S

great route

with Andy Wilson
switch 02/May/14 Lead rpt
with Will, Leanne
guy757 24/Apr/14 -
tebs 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Classy. Crux took a bit of working out. Seems like there's too methods. 1) Float up the crimps wondering what all the fuss is about (Sadie) and 2) Decide the crimps are too small for human use and get elbow deep in the crack instead (me). I found this surprisingly sequency for a wide crack!

with Sadie, Adam
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Steve Davis
mike mo ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Pumpy, with a really cool, sequency crux. Brilliant positions. Led easy P1.

with Andy
Ramon Marin 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Pretty pumpy as was wet

with ciaran tracey
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
The Grist 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Paula lockett
will9911 26/May/13 Lead O/S
steven 26/May/13 2nd dog
with Will Taylor
Hidden 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 25/May/13 Lead
with Colin
Dizz 19/May/13 2nd O/S
with EJ
Owain Llewelyn 09/May/13 Lead rpt
with Doddy
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd rpt
mark20 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Wood for Trees 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

cool bridging to start and nice sequence on the crux, shame about the ledge but I wasn't complaining.

tim newton 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
neilh ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Cardi 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great line, good moves. Less strenuous than it looks. First E3 if it really is E3!

with Tom R
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead rpt
belay bunny turned bad 29/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with loundsy
Duncan Campbell 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Felt really light-headed and lacking in balance before setting off. Bit wet at the bottom but not too bad, great sustained climbing up to the ledge then it eases off. not sure whether its hard E2 or soft E3.

Bennykr 21/Jul/12 Lead β

on duncan's gear, felt steady.

with Duncan
Sardien 20/May/12 2nd dog

A lot of Umpf! but what a position to be in!

with Andy Scott
Lenny 19/May/12 Lead β
with James W
AC1 14/May/12 2nd
with gforce
gforce 14/May/12 Lead
with Adrian
Tom Livingstone 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden ??/2012 -
Luke Brooks 28/Sep/11 2nd
with Liam
quiffhanger 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
david morse 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

led p2, lost a red camalot. GUTTED! Excellent pitch

with lole
Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
centurion05 03/Aug/11 2nd

Good climb, steep wee route but not pumpy because you can bridge up it. E2, never E3.

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 03/Aug/11 Lead
with Andy
LC ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route. great, steep corner. Stout for E2.

owain86 20/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Really good, hard.

Dave Almond 05/Jul/11 Lead

Fun in the sun.

mux 05/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Just as good second time.

with Dave Almond, Simon Frost
Adam Lincoln 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
al99 11/May/11 AltLd O/S

Great! Hard for E2, take big gear then it would be safe as houses.

with Dave Gleave
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/May/11 Lead rpt
with Becky McGovern
ksjs 10/May/11 2nd rpt
with Paul S
laurelfan 10/May/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Pippa 02/May/11 Lead
with Jon
haydng 01/May/11 2nd rpt
with Rob
mynyddresident 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Tricky upper corner section.

with tony
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alkira ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
lukehunt 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Dewhurst
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 10/Oct/10 2nd
with Gareth E
Glyn 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
barni 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with andy Psyche, Glyn
schof 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 13/Jul/10 Lead

Ace climbing!

with Dad
Lenny 03/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Kev, James. D
dan gibson 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Awesome line! Gear on demand so probs hard but safe E2. I assume bottom of groove is always wet (not rained in a while but was still seepin) so take that into account. Feels very steep but rests available. ace.

soph ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Dr Toph 13/May/10 2nd O/S

Lovely flowing climbing, good holds and rests where you need them.

with Ed
nick arding 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 08/May/10 2nd
with Nick Arding
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead rpt
geoff b 27/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S
hervenuttall ?/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Steve
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
Jus 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
givemetea 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Libby Peter
frost 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with D Almond
Dave Almond 17/Sep/09 2nd

pulled on gear on crux.i blame the chemo.

Hidden 15/Sep/09 Lead O/S
billb ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jus
Chad123 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Superb route - one of the best E3s I've done (or is it hard E2?) - exposed groove full of gear and mostly bridging rests....one hard section which isn't too bad if you think about it. Sam made a lot of noise seconding!!

with Sam and Jo
Hidden 01/Aug/09 Lead dnf
PaulTanton 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Ri ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Anja Jones
miastacey 03/May/09 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch

with Bob Smith
Hidden 03/May/09 -
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Mike
kingholmesy ??/2009 AltLd O/S

Led main second pitch

with Andy S
morganator 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Stan Halstead and Es Tressider
mattyork2 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Technical and powerful. A brilliant line.

with Eira Jepson
Hidden 24/Jun/08 2nd dog
Nicos 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

superb and worth E3 - moving round into the slimey groove and placing gear during crux make this physically demanding. great moves through the crux

with geraldine
Hidden ??/2008 -
Will1 ??/2008 -
mr mills ??/2008 Lead O/S

stiff for E2 !

with ioan d
JM ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
guyblackwood 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Lee
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Julian Cooper ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Awesome. Felt like hard work. E3 for sure. Drew some blood.

with Ben Steel
Brown 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
Phill Mitch ??/2007 Lead O/S
with mick
mux ??/2007 Lead O/S
with James Hubbard
ThomN ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
chris j 07/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
ellis ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Dan Rowles
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 19/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Tuffty Nick
nickdonohue 01/Aug/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
haydng ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 Lead

Maybe my climbing high point! Great climb

with Steve Hastings
Hidden ??/2003 -
Gus 01/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
pete johnson 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Dave Wills
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ??/2000 Lead rpt
with Robin
clark alston ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Tom Rainbow
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead O/S

A horrible cold windy day but a good route.

with Karen Ghiselli
WB 06/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with Nicola
Hidden 10/May/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
NeilGriffiths ??/1998 2nd
with Albert, James Hubbard
ColinD ?/Aug/97 2nd
with Hanna
sadams 15/Jun/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
michael burrows 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with steve ward
Hidden 20/Sep/96 Lead O/S
phardman 07/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/96 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/96 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/96 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1996 Lead
with Tim White, Nick Dalzell
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 Lead O/S
pingora 07/May/95 2nd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 05/Apr/95 2nd
with Martin Reynard
ste_d 18/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 18/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
steve taylor ?/Jun/94 -
with Jim Waddington
D Tempest 30/Apr/94 2nd
with Rick
crossleysm ?/Apr/94 AltLd O/S
jfletcher 19/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Steve Crowe 17/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
Rich Kirby 28/Jun/93 2nd
with Phil
Hidden 21/Aug/92 2nd
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Nick Biven 17/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Tim Snaith
Bruce Kerr 19/May/91 Lead
with Perric Crellin
ukb & bmc shark ??/1991 Lead O/S

year a guess

with Nige White
Mike Owen 07/May/90 Lead O/S
with Mike Twid Turner
wynaptomos ?/Apr/90 2nd O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S

Superb

with Gordon Hemsley
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 80
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 68
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set