Rockfax Description
Excellent face climbing via a tricky bulge low down and a shallow rib above. © Rockfax

G.Gibson Sep/2003

Ticklists: CUMC Ticklist.

Cowflinger 29/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with Pete Lewis
julesmckim 29/Sep/17 Lead dog

Hmmm. Neither of us were impressed with this one. Rob had rests and went off route. I thought the start bold, the bulge really hard and the route finding above a bit baffling. Went direct and pulled a hold off and took a wanger. Then easy to the top. A bit crap.

with Rob Smart
embob 13/Sep/17 Lead

Excellent but felt pretty desperate! Had to work hard to get the pocket next to the third clip, and then the bulge... Stayed close to the bolt line and it felt nails! Took me a while but got there in the end.

with Alex
JPGR 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
mike hope 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Great climbing

with Pedro, Chris B
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Avon Man 01/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Derek
Climbingenthusiast 25/Jul/17 Lead dog

Repeat but pulled gear through the crux due to finger injury (weakness)

wilchivs 25/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with James Taylor
slowmotion 14/Jul/17 Lead β
Ben Harper 14/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Fiona
WillAndrew 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with KatePG, Ali
oli87 27/Jun/17 Lead RP

There is a block on the flake before the first bolt that is getting very loose

just one more 09/Jun/17 Lead β
with Patrick
patrickcd 09/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Steve
ericinbristol 31/May/17 Lead O/S
vertigo 31/May/17 Lead β

Keeps you concentrating all the way.

with Eric
Alex Wade 24/May/17 Lead dog
with Tim Smith
Lisa P 21/May/17 2nd O/S
with james n
Climbingenthusiast 21/May/17 Lead β
james n 21/May/17 Lead O/S
with Lisa P
dkilner 09/May/17 Lead dog

Pre crux rest after missing a crucial side pull.

with james
AlexanderWilliams 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Tricky start to really nice easy climbing above. Don't stray too far right towards top stay left on the conglomerate/flowstone stuff. Good route.

dclarkson 18/Apr/17 Lead O/S
RosieYates 09/Apr/17 Lead β

Given some directions when I lost my way, but not too far off a proper on-sight - was placing draws as I went. Nice route, eases with height after a tough low crux which I just slapped through and hoped it would work (it did).

joe1joe1joe2 09/Apr/17 Lead β

Hard beginning then it eases up the higher you get. I'd recommend Red Square over this route.

dom_joyce265 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
mop449 09/Apr/17 Lead β

Tough crux at the start. Not worth 2* imo

with Joe Hanson, Sam Garland, Dom Joyce
dannygale 08/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Shane
myrddinmuse 25/Jan/17 Lead dnf

Did the hard moves up to the rest point (3rd clip maybe?) without too much hassle. Yet again can't work out where to go from there.

with Rhys Roberts
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 31/Jul/16 Lead rpt
nickyprice77 01/Jun/16 Lead
PerMarePerTerram 16/Apr/16 Lead dog
Rob McGurk 10/Feb/16 Lead dog

Was wet at the start. Tricky low down with easier climbing and great exposure higher up. Worth coming back to.

with Matt Urquhart
MathewWright1998 ??/2016 Lead O/S
Didymus 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with PaulTclimbing, Nick
Hidden 25/Sep/15 TR O/S
Gareth T 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with James Mcmunn
VPJB 01/Jul/15 Lead
simo 30/May/15 Lead rpt
with Shane
Carl Watkins 21/Apr/15 Lead dog
with Bill G
steveanthony 07/Apr/15 2nd dog
gingernick 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Steve Marsh, Dean Jones
myrddinmuse 11/Feb/15 TR dog

Bloody hard start. Got a bit lost in the middle and wandered over to the 7a+ next door.

Hidden 11/Feb/15 TR
David Maddison 15/Nov/14 Lead β
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
simo 16/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with El, JT
simo 11/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Si 06/Jun/14 Lead β
Steve Lewis 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Imogen
Ian Bell 31/May/14 Lead RP

First go today after falling off it a few weeks ago

with Tania T
tommccluskey 30/May/14 Lead β
with Petar
Petar Samkov 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 17/May/14 Lead dog
with Tania T
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead dnf
gingernick 29/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Again. Great climbing

Giles Davis 29/Apr/14 Lead RP

Nice balancy and absorbing climbing.

with Nick Matthews, Darrell Morgan, Dean Jones
Giles Davis 29/Apr/14 Lead dog

Hmm, didn't like the bolting on first lead, felt a bit precarious but all ok second go.

with Darrell Morgan, Dean Jones
Stone Muppet 17/Apr/14 2nd
with ss
simo 17/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Tomas P 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Eugetj ?/Apr/14 TR O/S
Ricky Rocks 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Used as a warm up, but the start's a bit feisty! Glorious climbing above.

gingernick 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Again, terrific climb

steveanthony 25/Jun/13 Lead β
Stone Muppet 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Always thought this was a sandbag 6a, guess it depends on the exact line a bit

with irish
Bates 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Chris, Kyle
Bates 17/Apr/13 Lead RP
bluesharper 06/Oct/12 Lead RP

The rope held a swing a bit but I consider the route done. I am particularly happy with this one because I felt scared when I was working it.

with Chris
richardr 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Very hard start

with Bill
tweedcore 22/May/12 Lead rpt
with Leo
Anoetic 06/Apr/12 Lead β
jcj ??/2012 -
mikeshewring 01/Sep/11 Lead RP
gingernick 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing

with Dean Jones
Claire S-J 21/Apr/11 2nd dog
with rob
stu1981 07/Apr/11 Lead
with Ben Mitchell
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Lead
Tom Heslam 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
geodrw 14/Oct/10 Lead
with dan
dannygale 14/Oct/10 Lead
with george
gknyus 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

first 6c onsight to date! thought it was Genghis Khan!

tskelhon 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Bez
DafSWMC 29/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Sean L, Gareth
Billg 09/May/10 Lead rpt
with Bob Brewer
irish paul 04/May/10 Lead O/S

In the dark

with Julian
Cowflinger 12/Mar/10 TR rpt
with Suzanne
Hidden ??/2010 -
Salvador 04/Oct/09 Lead dnf

Went through about 1/3 of the route then moved to Bulbus Tara.

with Susannah Williams
tweedcore 26/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Pip
Tim W 10/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Andrew Davidson
hash 13/Aug/09 Lead dog

Should have trended left - nice route though

DafSWMC 13/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with Hash
steve.warrington 25/Jul/09 2nd
with Dave Simpson
haydng 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S

A good route, balancy with no tricky moves. Overgraded, would have again voted for F6b if it was available...

with Dave, Mark
Marti999 18/May/09 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 29/Apr/09 Lead RP
John Southworth 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
Christian Reynish 16/Mar/09 2nd O/S
DafSWMC 16/Mar/09 Lead RP

No pre-practice.

pottsworth 12/Oct/08 Lead dog

Ended up really stretched out on the second clip and had a take. Sorted feet out and did it clean from there. Top section was really nice, delicate climbing on good holds. Given 6b+ on my topo, may have done it again if I'd known it was 6c, 6b+ did seem more appropriate considering the top half

with Matt
Matt Fry 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 26/Jun/08 Lead rpt
tweedcore 03/May/08 Lead dog

fell at start because it was wet! but quite nice once you are past the wet bit!

DafSWMC 09/Jan/08 TR dnf

Greasy/dirty. Quite hard.

with Hash
Ian Parnell 16/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Marcus
gejones 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tim
onlytovey ??/2007 Lead RP
Billg ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
Hidden 14/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Tim W 17/May/05 Lead rpt
with Paddy
Tim W 13/Jul/04 2nd
with Paddy
Hidden 03/May/04 Lead O/S
PaulTclimbing ??/2004 -
goi.ashmore 14/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Gary Gibson ?/Sep/03 Lead

It's called Tarus Bulbous.

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Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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