UKC

41m. Found below the overhang in the cleft to the right of Faceless Face, this route takes a line through some steep territory, providing adventurous and varied climbing.

Start on the edge of the right hand (pink) arĂȘte directly below the overhang.
Climb steeply up thin cracks on the right edge for 6 metres until it is possible to swing left into the cleft.Tenuous wide bridging for 4 metres lead to the overhang (sometimes wet), where a high hand jam gives access to the hanging cracks above, which are climbed for 6 metres (crux).
Move diagonally right onto the spine, climbing this by layback for 5 metres in good position.
Swing left into the overhanging offwidth cracks at the second overhang (large cam), climbing these bridging onto the spine for 5 metres until it is possible to move right to a sloping ledge. Possible restricted belay. Step left off the ledge to continue up the spine for 9 metres, first by finger jams up to a break, then by steep layback moves to join the final steep corner of Setback Grooves for the last 6 metres.
Exit with care onto the grass slopes and belay on spikes well back.

R Neath, S Quinton 22/May/2023.

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Guidebooks for Lydstep Cavern Bay

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High E4
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Route of Interest
Amazon

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Lydstep Point Area)

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