122m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route of immense historical significance that weaves its way up the crag, taking in plenty of good climbing in increasingly spectacular situations. Start at a rib, just left of the base of Moss Gill, where Rake's Progress crosses it.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the rib and corner to below a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a short corner. Climb the corner then head left to a large grassy ledge below The Great Flake - 'The Oval'.
2) 5b, 25m. Gain the base of the Great Flake and move up it for 5m to a sloping ledge on the left. Traverse left along a thin crack for 2m before stepping up to a good hold. Continue up and rightwards to gain a short crack leading to the top of the
Great Flake. Go left along the flake to reach a good ledge and belay on 'Jeffcoat's Ledge'.
2a) 5b, 25m. The original line tackled The Great Flake in its entirety. It lacks gear making this option now worth E2 although a very large cam brings it back down to E1.
3) 4c, 30m. Move left along the ledge and up a corner to a block (possible belay). Traverse right to a big pinnacle and then on to a corner. Climb this to a ledge and belay on the right - The V-ledge.
4) 5a, 35m. Starting at the left end of the ledge, climb a thin crack and move left until the large corner above can be reached. Climb the steep corner and at its top, head left to easier ground. © Rockfax

S.W.Herford, G.S.Sansom et al Apr/1914

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, MIA logbook must haves!, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes, FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs, Caff's Cool E1s List, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, A Lakeland E1 Odessey, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), EUMC - Must do climbs, Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Big Routes 2020

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Frank Boase 14 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch.
 
Show beta
βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 25 Aug, 2019 AltLd dnf
masa-alpin 8 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Finally! Jolly glad to have climbed this historic route! Simon lead P1, 3, and I did P2 and P4. It started drizzling by the end of P1, but rock stayed dry-ish fortunately, except P4, where drizzling became more like rain (Note when rock was wet, it was like glass…). All the pitches were interesting and good, though neither route-finding nor ropework was straightforward. It is a tad harder for shorties like me, but is still at the same grade. The final belay was grim, as a swarm of midges was assaulting me.
with perrys
Finally! Jolly glad to have climbed this historic route! Simon lead P1, 3, and I did P2 and P4. It started drizzling by the end of P1, but rock stayed dry-ish fortunately, except P4, where drizzling became more like rain (Note when rock was wet, it was like glass…). All the pitches were interesting and good, though neither route-finding nor ropework was straightforward. It is a tad harder for shorties like me, but is still at the same grade. The final belay was grim, as a swarm of midges was assaulting me.
with perrys
perrys 8 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
Andrew Barker 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S New start, Marr Variation, Nazgul finish. Lead P1 and the Nazgul finish. Mega.
with Chris M
New start, Marr Variation, Nazgul finish. Lead P1 and the Nazgul finish. Mega.
with Chris M
Hidden 7 Jul, 2019 AltLd
K Farrell 6 Jul, 2019 AltLd dnf Thought the route avoided most of the wet bits...it did not. Managed to get us to the top of P1 so we could ab off and not leave any gear.
with RJP
Thought the route avoided most of the wet bits...it did not. Managed to get us to the top of P1 so we could ab off and not leave any gear.
with RJP
Hidden 6 Jul, 2019 AltLd dnf
bencole 4 Jul, 2019 Lead O/S Like many I’ve wanted to tick this for years for the historical value alone. It certainly didn’t disappoint with some atmospheric mist thrown in for the top pitch. Easy 5b but bold in places.
with Ste
Like many I’ve wanted to tick this for years for the historical value alone. It certainly didn’t disappoint with some atmospheric mist thrown in for the top pitch. Easy 5b but bold in places.
with Ste
Hidden 4 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
davidswannn 3 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
mikeyjbs 2 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Davey Swan
with Davey Swan
Delyth 28 Jun, 2019 2nd
with lanky
with lanky
lanky 28 Jun, 2019 Lead
with Del
with Del
Hidden 28 Jun, 2019 AltLd
marky 28 Jun, 2019 AltLd Led the great Marr’s variation pitch and the top pitch of Nazgul. Fantastic way up the crag via the new start and direct link pitch. Climbed in the warm evening sun - magical.
with Ian Armstrong
Led the great Marr’s variation pitch and the top pitch of Nazgul. Fantastic way up the crag via the new start and direct link pitch. Climbed in the warm evening sun - magical.
with Ian Armstrong
jackob 23 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S I lead P1. and 3 pretty bold and pretty average all in all really. In hindsight wish I'd climbed the great flake and done the nazgul finish. Stunning spot though.
with Bede
I lead P1. and 3 pretty bold and pretty average all in all really. In hindsight wish I'd climbed the great flake and done the nazgul finish. Stunning spot though.
with Bede
Hidden 23 Jun, 2019 AltLd
treesrockice 23 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S Lead P2&4 ... went off route on P2 traversed to far... got bold. Good route but dirty and perma wet looking at the moss in places (not where I went off route). 3 star route over all due to location history etc. all but not 3 star climbing in my opinion. Bivi'd in Eskdale before, surprisingly made quite a late start. Thanks to MRT who were out training and let us ab' down their ropes on descent! Surprised to see this claims to be the most famous route in the country in the guide, both me and my partner disagreed with this.
with jackob
Lead P2&4 ... went off route on P2 traversed to far... got bold. Good route but dirty and perma wet looking at the moss in places (not where I went off route). 3 star route over all due to location history etc. all but not 3 star climbing in my opinion. Bivi'd in Eskdale before, surprisingly made quite a late start. Thanks to MRT who were out training and let us ab' down their ropes on descent! Surprised to see this claims to be the most famous route in the country in the guide, both me and my partner disagreed with this.
with jackob
birks3746 22 Jun, 2019 AltLd
with Alice and lisa
with Alice and lisa
Hidden 21 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
rholdswo 26 May, 2019 -
Hidden 24 May, 2019 AltLd O/S
Fiona Reid 24 May, 2019 AltLd O/S Led 1 and 3 (which we split in half to avoid drag). Pitch 2 is pretty out there. Awesome climbing. Pretty chilly but bone dry.
Led 1 and 3 (which we split in half to avoid drag). Pitch 2 is pretty out there. Awesome climbing. Pretty chilly but bone dry.
zero_cobalt 12 May, 2019 2nd dnf
with OwainSimpson, Timothy Gray
with OwainSimpson, Timothy Gray
georgenvk 21 Apr, 2019 AltLd Led pitch 3,used slight rope tension on pitch 2 Marr's variation
with im off
Led pitch 3,used slight rope tension on pitch 2 Marr's variation
with im off
Hidden 20 Apr, 2019 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Apr, 2019 AltLd O/S
J_Spooner ??, 2019 -
joeflan 5 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S as part of the Hard rock in 37.5 hour challenge, Chris lead all this for speed and he shot up it, cracking route the great flake is brilliant.
with CMoore
as part of the Hard rock in 37.5 hour challenge, Chris lead all this for speed and he shot up it, cracking route the great flake is brilliant.
with CMoore
CMoore 5 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt Lead it all in 3 pitches. - Went the "original" way on the Great Flake. Wet at the top. Route 7 Hard Rock Challenge
with joeflan
Lead it all in 3 pitches. - Went the "original" way on the Great Flake. Wet at the top. Route 7 Hard Rock Challenge
with joeflan
Heather Osborne 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with James
with James
The old James turnbull 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Set of at 7.15pm in the thick must. Topped out at 8.30. amazing way up the crag
with rich howells
Set of at 7.15pm in the thick must. Topped out at 8.30. amazing way up the crag
with rich howells
Tom Redwood 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S One to remember, Eugenie lead the New and superior start, I lead the fantastic Marr's variation pitch. Went a bit mad accidentally leading p3 of Nazgul, got too committed thinking I was only slightly off the VS, scary until a tiny brass nut then only flashes of memory above so pure focused flow to the top I guess (Arno BS). Eug made the top pitch of Nazgul look easier than it was, good but CB finish is probably more in keeping difficulty wise.
with eb202
One to remember, Eugenie lead the New and superior start, I lead the fantastic Marr's variation pitch. Went a bit mad accidentally leading p3 of Nazgul, got too committed thinking I was only slightly off the VS, scary until a tiny brass nut then only flashes of memory above so pure focused flow to the top I guess (Arno BS). Eug made the top pitch of Nazgul look easier than it was, good but CB finish is probably more in keeping difficulty wise.
with eb202
TomRiddelsdell 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd P1 and p3. Great outing!
with Matt77
P1 and p3. Great outing!
with Matt77
Matt77 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S P2 and 4 (done in 4 pitches in total). With the Nazgul finish and the start from the right as in the Wired Guide. Never too hard with some lovely bold climbing going over the front of the flake. Scafell was teeming with climbers making the most of the weather.
with Tom Riddelsdell
P2 and 4 (done in 4 pitches in total). With the Nazgul finish and the start from the right as in the Wired Guide. Never too hard with some lovely bold climbing going over the front of the flake. Scafell was teeming with climbers making the most of the weather.
with Tom Riddelsdell
chris wyatt 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S wonderful. original start. flake pitch. shortcut pitch 4 and bayonet crack .
with joe
wonderful. original start. flake pitch. shortcut pitch 4 and bayonet crack .
with joe
GavinHamilton78 14 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Loved the whole mountain feel in mist - took the great flake direct (original route) where I found greasy on the footholds took fall and rested on rope. Swung round onto face to climb onto the horizontal flake hand traverse-what a feature, the flake just keeps going! Can't wait to get back on the Scafell massive again - great rock.
with clams
Loved the whole mountain feel in mist - took the great flake direct (original route) where I found greasy on the footholds took fall and rested on rope. Swung round onto face to climb onto the horizontal flake hand traverse-what a feature, the flake just keeps going! Can't wait to get back on the Scafell massive again - great rock.
with clams
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd β
joe gallacher 13 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Couldn't follow rope diagonally across crux pitch.Prusic battle up the top of flake face..brutal. Not as brutal as the shortcut Chris took later...dogged my way up by advancing the cams and standing up on them. Not a lot of fun..stunning Trad lead demonstration by Chris as always.
with Chris Wyatt
Couldn't follow rope diagonally across crux pitch.Prusic battle up the top of flake face..brutal. Not as brutal as the shortcut Chris took later...dogged my way up by advancing the cams and standing up on them. Not a lot of fun..stunning Trad lead demonstration by Chris as always.
with Chris Wyatt
Richard Alderton 9 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt Finished up Nazgul
Finished up Nazgul
watson.b 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Original start, and nazgul finish
Original start, and nazgul finish
bidean 8 Jul, 2018 2nd
abbeywall 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd Classic. 1, 3 and 5, five pitches. RH start, split link pitch, rope drag. P5 as guidebook not Nazgul. Great pitch but quite mossy in second half. Maybe most folk go nazgul now
with T
Classic. 1, 3 and 5, five pitches. RH start, split link pitch, rope drag. P5 as guidebook not Nazgul. Great pitch but quite mossy in second half. Maybe most folk go nazgul now
with T
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
eduardo 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Right hand start, Marr variation & original finish. led P2, P3.5 (traverse right) and P4. Dropped half of Mark's small nuts behind the Great Flake. Didn't need them..
with Mark H
Right hand start, Marr variation & original finish. led P2, P3.5 (traverse right) and P4. Dropped half of Mark's small nuts behind the Great Flake. Didn't need them..
with Mark H
Tony Little 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd Ed did the flake and I did the direct on pitch 3
with Ed Brown
Ed did the flake and I did the direct on pitch 3
with Ed Brown
Hidden 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
davkeo 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S I did p2 (flake variation) & 4. Anni did 1 & 3 (direct link). Flake variation was burly & felt a bit spicy without a big cam but it’s not e3. Better to go the other way on the face as it looks like much better climbing. Start of p3 quite hard & was the crux on the day. Nazgul finish would also be a better way to do it as p4 was nothing to write home about. I’d agree with 2 stars for what we climbed. Done after Saxon. Camped up at the boulders before & after which is a great way to experience the place.
I did p2 (flake variation) & 4. Anni did 1 & 3 (direct link). Flake variation was burly & felt a bit spicy without a big cam but it’s not e3. Better to go the other way on the face as it looks like much better climbing. Start of p3 quite hard & was the crux on the day. Nazgul finish would also be a better way to do it as p4 was nothing to write home about. I’d agree with 2 stars for what we climbed. Done after Saxon. Camped up at the boulders before & after which is a great way to experience the place.
BTphonehome 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S What on earth were they up to in 1914?! Fair play. Great to follow in the footsteps. Big cam softens things but would be fine without as its all over fairly quickly. Bold feel to the first pitch.
with tmawer
What on earth were they up to in 1914?! Fair play. Great to follow in the footsteps. Big cam softens things but would be fine without as its all over fairly quickly. Bold feel to the first pitch.
with tmawer
tmawer 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Dragged the large cam up and did the flake crack. Nicely led by Bram. First pitch pretty bold I thought, what a route for the period.....historic!
Dragged the large cam up and did the flake crack. Nicely led by Bram. First pitch pretty bold I thought, what a route for the period.....historic!
Jasc 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd Right hand start, Marr variation & original finish. Superb.
with Tony
Right hand start, Marr variation & original finish. Superb.
with Tony
Mr Fuller 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf Led P1 before abbing off.
with R Brown
Led P1 before abbing off.
with R Brown
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
Sam Brown 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Nat williams
with Nat williams
Flatland 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Brilliant, atmospheric route. First two pitches (w/ flake variation) similar standard (bold on the first, exposed and quite fingery on the second); easier thereafter.
with Jon Ascroft
Brilliant, atmospheric route. First two pitches (w/ flake variation) similar standard (bold on the first, exposed and quite fingery on the second); easier thereafter.
with Jon Ascroft
accynez ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Did the big flake then linked the direct variation into Nazgul last pitch in one.
with Keith
Did the big flake then linked the direct variation into Nazgul last pitch in one.
with Keith
clams ?Jul, 2018 Lead Alpine feel once mist descended. Very memorable and enjoyable. The Great Flake is a marvel of rock architecture. Took it direct which was chalked up but also a bit greasy. Gonna say E1 5c with Camalot size 6 although would certainly take E2 5c! Traverse into the corner on P5 surprisingly tricky.
Alpine feel once mist descended. Very memorable and enjoyable. The Great Flake is a marvel of rock architecture. Took it direct which was chalked up but also a bit greasy. Gonna say E1 5c with Camalot size 6 although would certainly take E2 5c! Traverse into the corner on P5 surprisingly tricky.
jasewilson ?Jul, 2018 -
Nick Wallis 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Superb
with Tom Holdsworth
Superb
with Tom Holdsworth
Aeron Thomas 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd Lead Pitch 1 and 3, went direct up the corner on pitch 3.
with James 1
Lead Pitch 1 and 3, went direct up the corner on pitch 3.
with James 1
James 1 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
steely 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Nothing else needs to be said.
Brilliant! Nothing else needs to be said.
nuts and bolts 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
sparkass 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Excellent. We did the New Left start which was good once we worked out which way to go, the guide description is poor. The next pitch on the face of the flake is amazing and the original route above was fun. Mega!
with steely
Excellent. We did the New Left start which was good once we worked out which way to go, the guide description is poor. The next pitch on the face of the flake is amazing and the original route above was fun. Mega!
with steely
JemG 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Trevor Suddaby
with Trevor Suddaby
Rob Rocket 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt Original start, Marr Variation & Nazgul finish
Original start, Marr Variation & Nazgul finish
Hidden 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Mike Dudley 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S With the “New and Superior Start” and Great Flake variation. Chris led an initial short 4b pitch and the P4 6m ‘non pitch’ and I did the other pitches. Led Great Flake variation which gets E3 5c but I agree with comments below that this is super generous - more like easy-but-little-bold E2 5b. (If you bothered to lug up a gigantic cam, like a WC big green, then this would be closer to HVS. But even with a normal rack you’ve got a chockstone below the steep bit for bomber gear then it’s only a few swift moves to jugs. Definitely worth doing.) It’s possible to link the pitches from the Great Flake belay ledge to the top of the crag with 60m ropes and healthily extended gear.
with Chris Wright
With the “New and Superior Start” and Great Flake variation. Chris led an initial short 4b pitch and the P4 6m ‘non pitch’ and I did the other pitches. Led Great Flake variation which gets E3 5c but I agree with comments below that this is super generous - more like easy-but-little-bold E2 5b. (If you bothered to lug up a gigantic cam, like a WC big green, then this would be closer to HVS. But even with a normal rack you’ve got a chockstone below the steep bit for bomber gear then it’s only a few swift moves to jugs. Definitely worth doing.) It’s possible to link the pitches from the Great Flake belay ledge to the top of the crag with 60m ropes and healthily extended gear.
with Chris Wright
Dave Almond 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Steaming hot day. Did Direct Link plus top pitch of Nazgul. Definitely the best line for this route.
with Liam Gaston
Steaming hot day. Did Direct Link plus top pitch of Nazgul. Definitely the best line for this route.
with Liam Gaston
Pero 26 Jun, 2018 2nd
robertmichaellovell 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Ellie
with Ellie
topsyturvy 26 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S led all pitches :o)
with Pero
led all pitches :o)
with Pero
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
mark4344 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt Went too high up ramp on pitch 3.only need to go up 5 meters before traversing right. Pitch 1 felt bold.
with cheeky
Went too high up ramp on pitch 3.only need to go up 5 meters before traversing right. Pitch 1 felt bold.
with cheeky
cheeky 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 and 2nd half pitch 3. After getting placing a few bits of pro on the face of the flake I went back and unclipped the runner on the chockstone to reduce drag. P3 Mark went to the top of the ramp and ended belayed along way of route. I then down climbed found the write way and finished pitch 3.
Pitches 2 and 2nd half pitch 3. After getting placing a few bits of pro on the face of the flake I went back and unclipped the runner on the chockstone to reduce drag. P3 Mark went to the top of the ramp and ended belayed along way of route. I then down climbed found the write way and finished pitch 3.
williap 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Jase
with Jase
Bones [:B 12 Jun, 2018 2nd
guy127917 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd Went for the flake original, despite fog and rain rolling in. Totally agree with Rob Greenwood's comments below: never E3, only 5 feet of hard climbing above a bomber chockstone, felt less bold and committing than Gormenghast. Still excellent: deserves to be done more to keep the lichen off. Top pitch of Nazgul made a stunning finish.
with sam kendrick
Went for the flake original, despite fog and rain rolling in. Totally agree with Rob Greenwood's comments below: never E3, only 5 feet of hard climbing above a bomber chockstone, felt less bold and committing than Gormenghast. Still excellent: deserves to be done more to keep the lichen off. Top pitch of Nazgul made a stunning finish.
with sam kendrick
Bex 5 Jun, 2018 2nd β
with Rob Knowles
with Rob Knowles
Rob Knowles 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Persuaded to commit to this and did not regret. Amazing climbing in an extremely exposed position!
with Bex Capewell-Salisbury
Persuaded to commit to this and did not regret. Amazing climbing in an extremely exposed position!
with Bex Capewell-Salisbury
smelliedebs ?Jun, 2018 AltLd Led P1/3
with Rob
Led P1/3
with Rob
ftocher 28 May, 2018 AltLd
Robbie Blease 28 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Absolutely stunning route! Pitch 2 was sensational and scary! Felt hard. I got the 2nd and 4th pitches. Francis managed not to loose anything this time which was a bonus
with ftocher
Absolutely stunning route! Pitch 2 was sensational and scary! Felt hard. I got the 2nd and 4th pitches. Francis managed not to loose anything this time which was a bonus
with ftocher
AngelaC 28 May, 2018 2nd
Georgie25 27 May, 2018 AltLd Led p1 (superior start) keith led crux pitch - others split leads randomly to avoid rope drag and not as per guidebook.
Led p1 (superior start) keith led crux pitch - others split leads randomly to avoid rope drag and not as per guidebook.
Hidden 27 May, 2018 AltLd
spidermonkey09 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 3. In the sunshine in the evening when the crag was deserted. Brilliant; devious, engaging and superb climbing with historical interest all the way. Not a bad effort for 1914... Surely a contender for the best route in the country, full stop.
with Claire Tetley, Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
Led P1 and 3. In the sunshine in the evening when the crag was deserted. Brilliant; devious, engaging and superb climbing with historical interest all the way. Not a bad effort for 1914... Surely a contender for the best route in the country, full stop.
with Claire Tetley, Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
Hidden 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Many classics fail to live up to their reputation, but this excels in every way, shape, and form. Whilst the line may look ridiculous on paper, it's logical once you're there. The Great Flake pitch is also no way near as bad as the guidebook suggests and a massive oversell/put-off at E3. Dare I say it, but it could still only be E1 - E2 tops. After clipping the chockstone (and yes, there is still a chockstone) it's only two or three moves to the top of the flake (where it eases significantly). As such, don't write it off!
with spidermonkey09, Claire Tetley
Many classics fail to live up to their reputation, but this excels in every way, shape, and form. Whilst the line may look ridiculous on paper, it's logical once you're there. The Great Flake pitch is also no way near as bad as the guidebook suggests and a massive oversell/put-off at E3. Dare I say it, but it could still only be E1 - E2 tops. After clipping the chockstone (and yes, there is still a chockstone) it's only two or three moves to the top of the flake (where it eases significantly). As such, don't write it off!
with spidermonkey09, Claire Tetley
Keith Swainson 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Superior start and original finish, lead Marr's Variation. Thoroughly enjoyed all of it, crux pitch was exhilarating, took a while finding the right line out on the face.
Superior start and original finish, lead Marr's Variation. Thoroughly enjoyed all of it, crux pitch was exhilarating, took a while finding the right line out on the face.
DavidR 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Hol pitches 1 and 3; me pitches 2 and 4. Right hand (harder) start.
Hol pitches 1 and 3; me pitches 2 and 4. Right hand (harder) start.
CMoore 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Good to finally do this classic.
Good to finally do this classic.
GeorgeHH 26 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Started with the "Superior start" and climbed the flake direct. Its easy to see what the hype is about, with this outstanding route. Also, team was voted best banter on crag, busy weekend on Scafell!
Started with the "Superior start" and climbed the flake direct. Its easy to see what the hype is about, with this outstanding route. Also, team was voted best banter on crag, busy weekend on Scafell!
Hidden 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
AlistairBerridge 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S With New and Superior Start, VS. P1&2 linked to the oval. Ollie finished up the direct, really nice climbing.
With New and Superior Start, VS. P1&2 linked to the oval. Ollie finished up the direct, really nice climbing.
Alkis 19 May, 2018 AltLd G/U Lead P2, seconded P1 and P3. Ali lead the New and Superior start, Ollie lead the direct start to P3. On-sight on P1, P2 and the first half of P3. Foot slipped off some wet moss while mantling at the end of the hand traverse, which was rather frustrating. Went again from the belay ledge.
Lead P2, seconded P1 and P3. Ali lead the New and Superior start, Ollie lead the direct start to P3. On-sight on P1, P2 and the first half of P3. Foot slipped off some wet moss while mantling at the end of the hand traverse, which was rather frustrating. Went again from the belay ledge.
Hidden 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Flavio 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Having some w**ker shout "Jeff! JEFF! Jefffff! JEffff! JJJEEEEEff! Jeff! JeFFFFF! JEFF! Come here Jeff! Jeeeeeefff!" across the entire valley for most of the pitches kind of spoiled this for me..
Having some w**ker shout "Jeff! JEFF! Jefffff! JEffff! JJJEEEEEff! Jeff! JeFFFFF! JEFF! Come here Jeff! Jeeeeeefff!" across the entire valley for most of the pitches kind of spoiled this for me..
OliverRoss 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Did the direct pitch after the flake to the top.
Did the direct pitch after the flake to the top.
jjwolf 6 May, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2018 -
BushwackerBritz 27 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Thom Wright
with Thom Wright
Hidden 30 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
freudy_love 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 10 Aug, 2017 AltLd Good varied route, did original start.
Good varied route, did original start.
Hidden 9 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 May, 2017 AltLd
nuts and bolts ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
hfotheri 8 Oct, 2016 AltLd dnf
with simon
with simon
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
jamesgr87 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Jack93 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Done in four pitches with me leading pitches 2 and 4. What a great adventure! The traverse off the great flake wasn't super obvious and the flake looked amazing so I just went up that instead which I think the guide gives E3, which was probably a bit silly as I didn't have any gear big enough so it would have been a messy if I'd come off. Ttraversing the top of the flake was so much fun, and I got to do it a couple of times because I cocked up my ropes a bit and left James a massive potential swing if he'd fallen off the flake. Last pitch was a bit of a shame because it was absolutely sodden! Should have finished up Nazgul instead which looked much nicer...
with jt232
Done in four pitches with me leading pitches 2 and 4. What a great adventure! The traverse off the great flake wasn't super obvious and the flake looked amazing so I just went up that instead which I think the guide gives E3, which was probably a bit silly as I didn't have any gear big enough so it would have been a messy if I'd come off. Ttraversing the top of the flake was so much fun, and I got to do it a couple of times because I cocked up my ropes a bit and left James a massive potential swing if he'd fallen off the flake. Last pitch was a bit of a shame because it was absolutely sodden! Should have finished up Nazgul instead which looked much nicer...
with jt232
duncana 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd Thought it might be a nice day but turned out cold, windy and swirling must on Scafell. Found the wander across the flake hard (seconding).
with Pippa Archer
Thought it might be a nice day but turned out cold, windy and swirling must on Scafell. Found the wander across the flake hard (seconding).
with Pippa Archer
mark4344 2 Aug, 2016 Lead Climbed when damp and greasy.first pitch bold in conditions. Found 5b pitch thin,but ok. Sadly got rained off after 4th pitch. Amazing route, will be back for top pitches.
with Mark jackson
Climbed when damp and greasy.first pitch bold in conditions. Found 5b pitch thin,but ok. Sadly got rained off after 4th pitch. Amazing route, will be back for top pitches.
with Mark jackson
klipkabouter 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with OllieF
with OllieF
John Brayshaw 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf Hottest day of the year so far but crag surprisingly wet - retreated from foot of Great Flake
with Gareth
Hottest day of the year so far but crag surprisingly wet - retreated from foot of Great Flake
with Gareth
LucaC 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. Very wet lower down, and behind the flake. Crippling rope drag on pitch 3, even with massive extenders.
Lead all pitches. Very wet lower down, and behind the flake. Crippling rope drag on pitch 3, even with massive extenders.
theocelano 19 Jul, 2016 2nd
with LucaC
with LucaC
OllieF 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Outstanding day, three teams on the route during the day and many others elsewhere. Props to Herford and Sansom in 1914!
Outstanding day, three teams on the route during the day and many others elsewhere. Props to Herford and Sansom in 1914!
BPaske 8 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 8 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Scooter Young 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd Nazgul finish pitch in the evening sun !
Nazgul finish pitch in the evening sun !
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Rob Rocket 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Great Flake and Nazgul finish.
Great Flake and Nazgul finish.
Bradbury 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Me pitches 1 & 2 together, G.H. pitch 3, me pitches 4 & 5 together (delicate traverse on 5), G.H. pitch 6
Me pitches 1 & 2 together, G.H. pitch 3, me pitches 4 & 5 together (delicate traverse on 5), G.H. pitch 6
ned_85 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
with Scott Marc Berry
Graeme Hammond 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd β Not as good as expecting but still good, led P3 & 6 as described in our guide, Andy Linked 1+2 and 4+5.
Not as good as expecting but still good, led P3 & 6 as described in our guide, Andy Linked 1+2 and 4+5.
Fatherof2 3 Jun, 2016 - Did original pitch 1 as per new guide and linked direct from jeffcoats ledge past pinacle to top pitch of nazgul makes a nice sustained e1.
with Jeff
Did original pitch 1 as per new guide and linked direct from jeffcoats ledge past pinacle to top pitch of nazgul makes a nice sustained e1.
with Jeff
Hidden ??, 2016 AltLd
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
andy28th ??, 2016 Lead O/S
andy28th ??, 2016 Lead O/S
joermann 13 Oct, 2015 AltLd First 2 pitches. abseiled of before it got dark.
First 2 pitches. abseiled of before it got dark.
philhilo 28 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Wet in places, cold in places. Original start with Marr variation. Fab day.
with Misha
Wet in places, cold in places. Original start with Marr variation. Fab day.
with Misha
Misha 28 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Richard Alderton 10 Sep, 2015 2nd dog Cocked up the sequence on the fake and had to have a little sit-down...
with Dervey
Cocked up the sequence on the fake and had to have a little sit-down...
with Dervey
Dervey 10 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 18 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 18 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Led every pitch. Superb mountain experience after walking in from Langdale and then bivi overnight opposite the crag on a perfect still night.
Led every pitch. Superb mountain experience after walking in from Langdale and then bivi overnight opposite the crag on a perfect still night.
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
Hidden 13 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
joe.91 15 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome climb, loved every pitch!
with Reidy
Awesome climb, loved every pitch!
with Reidy
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 2nd
Harry Ellis 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd Led 1 & 3 amazing work by matt on flake
with matt fraser
Led 1 & 3 amazing work by matt on flake
with matt fraser
Matt Amos 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead 3 and 6. On the great flake it didn't seem obvious where to go, so ended up traversing into the middle of the flake along the hand crack and then straight up.
Lead 3 and 6. On the great flake it didn't seem obvious where to go, so ended up traversing into the middle of the flake along the hand crack and then straight up.
Danny Crump 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Matt Amos
with Matt Amos
MJS ?May, 2015 AltLd Andy led the flake pitch
Andy led the flake pitch
phil64 ??, 2015 Lead
Scooter Young ??, 2015 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Ian Jones 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Finally got it albeit by the front face variant. Blown away by the detached flake on pitch 4.
with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O.
Finally got it albeit by the front face variant. Blown away by the detached flake on pitch 4.
with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O.
Hidden 12 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
John Pickles 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led from crux onward. Excellent route, found thin crack on top pitch rather hard!
Led from crux onward. Excellent route, found thin crack on top pitch rather hard!
nickb1 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
David_Gledson 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead 1 + 2, and 4. One of the best days put I've had. Climbed the whole route with no top on, and in the sun. A beautiful day and the route is one of the best I have ever done. Amazing!!
with AlanP
Lead 1 + 2, and 4. One of the best days put I've had. Climbed the whole route with no top on, and in the sun. A beautiful day and the route is one of the best I have ever done. Amazing!!
with AlanP
ClemmieMitchell 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S I lead pitches 1, 2 and 4 and seconded pitches 3, 5 and 6. We led the first two pitches as one and the last two pitches as one because they were all relatively short pitches.
I lead pitches 1, 2 and 4 and seconded pitches 3, 5 and 6. We led the first two pitches as one and the last two pitches as one because they were all relatively short pitches.
Hidden 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
stuart34 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Doug the thug
with Doug the thug
D.Russell 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd Ran pitches 1&2 and 4&5 together
Ran pitches 1&2 and 4&5 together
Calum Wadsworth 9 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Absolutely bloody brilliant.
Absolutely bloody brilliant.
Teappleby 9 Jul, 2014 AltLd Classic for a reason, an amazing route. Led P2,4,6
Classic for a reason, an amazing route. Led P2,4,6
Piers Harley 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd Finished up the the last 2 pitches of "The Nazgul" due to wet conditions.
with Ewan Whitmey
Finished up the the last 2 pitches of "The Nazgul" due to wet conditions.
with Ewan Whitmey
Hidden 28 Jun, 2014 2nd
harold walmsley 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led the crux by the left hand variant (my first time since the chock came out) and with a different start than previously so quite a bit of new climbing. Couldn't remember the top pitches anyway so they were a geriatric onsight. Can't believe this is only given 2 stars.
with George Gilmore
Led the crux by the left hand variant (my first time since the chock came out) and with a different start than previously so quite a bit of new climbing. Couldn't remember the top pitches anyway so they were a geriatric onsight. Can't believe this is only given 2 stars.
with George Gilmore
mark20 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
bigdrew 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with mark20
with mark20
Scott Quinn 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S first route on Scafell. Epic adventure, never hard. Just a bit confusing on front of the flake to many options got a bit lost and had killer rope drag..... thought I extended enough, obviously not!
first route on Scafell. Epic adventure, never hard. Just a bit confusing on front of the flake to many options got a bit lost and had killer rope drag..... thought I extended enough, obviously not!
gav 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S As described in 2014 FRCC guide (4 pitches starting by edge of Moss Gill) but finishing on last pitch of Nazgul. I lead P1(5a) then Peter took over for crux 5b pitch stepping round the great flake. Had some rope drag issues (care needed with gear behind flake) but got the pitch clean. Didn't quite belay far enough over at the top of pitch 2, so I moved past to set up. This made it easier for Peter to do P3, and I was knackered by this point so he too over and lead to the V-ledge and finished P4 on Nazgul. Great climbing on the flake which felt tough to me, but not really done any 5b before. 4c traverse on pitch 3 awkward and delicate in places. Brilliant route.
As described in 2014 FRCC guide (4 pitches starting by edge of Moss Gill) but finishing on last pitch of Nazgul. I lead P1(5a) then Peter took over for crux 5b pitch stepping round the great flake. Had some rope drag issues (care needed with gear behind flake) but got the pitch clean. Didn't quite belay far enough over at the top of pitch 2, so I moved past to set up. This made it easier for Peter to do P3, and I was knackered by this point so he too over and lead to the V-ledge and finished P4 on Nazgul. Great climbing on the flake which felt tough to me, but not really done any 5b before. 4c traverse on pitch 3 awkward and delicate in places. Brilliant route.
Peter Metcalfe 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd Made a right meal of the crux - got ropes crossed and had to reverse the traverse to reclip a runner... much huffing and puffing ensued. Bold, sustained climbing for several metres until good holds and gear. Rope drag still a problem. Nazgul finish seemed hard for 5a, but we were done in by then. CB bathed in evening sunlight - nice end to the day :-)
with Gavin Whittingham
Made a right meal of the crux - got ropes crossed and had to reverse the traverse to reclip a runner... much huffing and puffing ensued. Bold, sustained climbing for several metres until good holds and gear. Rope drag still a problem. Nazgul finish seemed hard for 5a, but we were done in by then. CB bathed in evening sunlight - nice end to the day :-)
with Gavin Whittingham
Tom.Priestley 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Did improved start. Lead P1 and lead P4 and P5 run together. Great flake pitch is quite confusing. Want to try the direct version now!
Did improved start. Lead P1 and lead P4 and P5 run together. Great flake pitch is quite confusing. Want to try the direct version now!
Longsufferingropeholder 6 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Having done the walk in twice before only to find it wet, we were a little less fussy than we maybe should've been. Found some pretty slimy bits that made it exciting.
Having done the walk in twice before only to find it wet, we were a little less fussy than we maybe should've been. Found some pretty slimy bits that made it exciting.
monkeyman79 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route in a great position. Watch out for rope drag on the flake pitch. Nearly stopped me leading it. Top pitch was sopping too.
with Simon Mitchell
Great route in a great position. Watch out for rope drag on the flake pitch. Nearly stopped me leading it. Top pitch was sopping too.
with Simon Mitchell
Lee Sheard 17 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with John Hubbard
with John Hubbard
joe_lancs 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Mackinclimb 21 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Tradical 20 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S A day that I will remember for a long time, nod to history, what a privilege. Led P1 (4b). John led P2,3,4. Good lead from John in the damp on the crux pitch.
A day that I will remember for a long time, nod to history, what a privilege. Led P1 (4b). John led P2,3,4. Good lead from John in the damp on the crux pitch.
john lynch 20 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S What a day! First route on scafell, done on the route's centenary. A very historical and memorable day.
with dave woods, Tommy, Joe Holden
What a day! First route on scafell, done on the route's centenary. A very historical and memorable day.
with dave woods, Tommy, Joe Holden
Hidden 20 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 20 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt
Sloth Chops 20 Apr, 2014 2nd What an honour. Climbed on the centenary. Decided to abseil off the second pitch due to rain and ensuing darkness (apparently that is what was done originally). Amazing day. Great leads by Joe Holden and John Lynch.
with Joe Holden
What an honour. Climbed on the centenary. Decided to abseil off the second pitch due to rain and ensuing darkness (apparently that is what was done originally). Amazing day. Great leads by Joe Holden and John Lynch.
with Joe Holden
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 Lead
with Dave Rees
with Dave Rees
Hidden ??, 2014 -
datoon ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
with S
with S
James Thacker ??, 2014 -
stuardo ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
petegunn 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd An superb outing that weaves its way gently upwards. The route comes alive as you progress up past all the great historic features, The Oval, The Great Flake, Jeffcoat's Ledge, V Ledge. Watched the last rays of sun after topping out, a beautiful clear, still evening :)
An superb outing that weaves its way gently upwards. The route comes alive as you progress up past all the great historic features, The Oval, The Great Flake, Jeffcoat's Ledge, V Ledge. Watched the last rays of sun after topping out, a beautiful clear, still evening :)
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
wildbill 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
tim exley 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S top pitch was wet, gear is poor stepping onto face of Great Flake, should head straight up after that but went left. Fantastic route
top pitch was wet, gear is poor stepping onto face of Great Flake, should head straight up after that but went left. Fantastic route
hornbywill 20 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
willhornby ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Sardien 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led main Pitch. Beautiful but wish I had had micros! Wee bit bold. Rich led two top pitches of Nazgul as one amazing top pitch
with nawface
Led main Pitch. Beautiful but wish I had had micros! Wee bit bold. Rich led two top pitches of Nazgul as one amazing top pitch
with nawface
Ali D 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd
maria85 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Done as 4 pitches. Led the flake pitch and the top one. Felt easy for E1, though had rope drag issues on the crux pitch.
with Jules
Done as 4 pitches. Led the flake pitch and the top one. Felt easy for E1, though had rope drag issues on the crux pitch.
with Jules
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
scott gibson 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S led to flake in 1 pitch. Graeme led flake pitch which was excellent and I then led the top 2 pitches of nazgul in 1 which made for a more direct and sustained route. Brilliant.
with graeme read
led to flake in 1 pitch. Graeme led flake pitch which was excellent and I then led the top 2 pitches of nazgul in 1 which made for a more direct and sustained route. Brilliant.
with graeme read
Ross Davidson 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead crux
Lead crux
StuartCJones 20 Jul, 2013 2nd β Awesome climb, took the new line traversing out left from great flake at E1 5b
Awesome climb, took the new line traversing out left from great flake at E1 5b
oliverk 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Pitches 2, 4 and 6
with dwhaley
Pitches 2, 4 and 6
with dwhaley
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Rachel led crux.
Rachel led crux.
Kirill 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P3 (made a complete hash of the ropework on it), P6. Very good!
Led P3 (made a complete hash of the ropework on it), P6. Very good!
LovelyMrTom 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1 and 2 together, 4 and 5. Lovely route.
with Kirill
Lead pitches 1 and 2 together, 4 and 5. Lovely route.
with Kirill
Rachel Slater 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1, 3, 5. Cool route.
with Olli-C
Lead pitch 1, 3, 5. Cool route.
with Olli-C
Will Sheaff 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 4b + 4c pitches
with Will Harris
Led 4b + 4c pitches
with Will Harris
Rachel S 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Cal led the crux 5b pitch.
with Cal
Cal led the crux 5b pitch.
with Cal
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Matt Rowat 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Should have done variation on pitch 4 which would have meant less easy traversing about. Also, last pitch maybe would have been better doing as for nazgul rather than traversing right to wet mossy crack. Awesome day out none the less!
with Owen
Should have done variation on pitch 4 which would have meant less easy traversing about. Also, last pitch maybe would have been better doing as for nazgul rather than traversing right to wet mossy crack. Awesome day out none the less!
with Owen
Calder 6 Jul, 2013 2nd Amazing.
with Diggler
Amazing.
with Diggler
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
sgl 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd rpt
with tebs
with tebs
Diggler 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Nice very nice
with Calder
Nice very nice
with Calder
mattkemp70 ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Goose4 19 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Harry Mcghie
with Harry Mcghie
Gudge 10 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S P2, 4 & 6 - great route! Clean onsight apart from the crux pitch as went off route and ended up doing the original route up the Great Flake (E3 5c). Took a wee tumble on this as was greasy!
P2, 4 & 6 - great route! Clean onsight apart from the crux pitch as went off route and ended up doing the original route up the Great Flake (E3 5c). Took a wee tumble on this as was greasy!
MikeLell 10 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Tackled the offwidth on the Great Flake direct (E3 5c) after a massive rest to de-pump and psych myself up. Amazing long route! Great dry conditions.
with Gudge
Tackled the offwidth on the Great Flake direct (E3 5c) after a massive rest to de-pump and psych myself up. Amazing long route! Great dry conditions.
with Gudge
DavidEvans 9 Jun, 2013 AltLd Led 1, 3, 6.
with Joe Bawden
Led 1, 3, 6.
with Joe Bawden
Andrew Wilson 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Did flake pitch and top pitch.
Did flake pitch and top pitch.
Andy Chadwick ??, 2013 -
chrisallan 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Dan Arkle 1 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Luuuuuke 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Legs
with Legs
Legs 4 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S What an amazing adventure. A proper Lakes classic multi-pitch. I lead the first pitch which was at VS standard ealry on. Luke then lead the rest. The 5b pitch was very exposed, with only crimps to hold and nothing for the feet. To top it all off there was little protection apart from a sling round the corner and a poorly placed cam! The last picth up the massive flakes was superb. An awesome adventure!
What an amazing adventure. A proper Lakes classic multi-pitch. I lead the first pitch which was at VS standard ealry on. Luke then lead the rest. The 5b pitch was very exposed, with only crimps to hold and nothing for the feet. To top it all off there was little protection apart from a sling round the corner and a poorly placed cam! The last picth up the massive flakes was superb. An awesome adventure!
mfisher 28 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Pitches 2 + 4, great effort from Olly taking the crux pitches!
Pitches 2 + 4, great effort from Olly taking the crux pitches!
ollyroberts 28 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Pitches 1,3,5,6. Awesome route!
with mfisher
Pitches 1,3,5,6. Awesome route!
with mfisher
Hidden 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Johann 22 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Alex Wheeldon
with Alex Wheeldon
Hidden 21 May, 2012 Lead
Peter Holder 25 Mar, 2012 Solo O/S Rope solo
Rope solo
Steven Carter ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??, 2012 -
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
JonG ??, 2012 -
JWB 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Some great pitches, some not so good. Going onto and up the Great flake was fantastic. Took us 7 hours ............. must climb quicker!
Some great pitches, some not so good. Going onto and up the Great flake was fantastic. Took us 7 hours ............. must climb quicker!
Graham Iles 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd
cooperman 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Tremendous. Wandering but worthwhile. Though-provoking but never desperate.
with Graham Iles
Tremendous. Wandering but worthwhile. Though-provoking but never desperate.
with Graham Iles
jon_gill1 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S I did pitch 1,3,5 and JWB did pitches 2,4,6 and 7, you may wonder what pitch 7?this is due to him over shooting the belay point by 12meters.sack that man.haha
with JWB
I did pitch 1,3,5 and JWB did pitches 2,4,6 and 7, you may wonder what pitch 7?this is due to him over shooting the belay point by 12meters.sack that man.haha
with JWB
DaveAtkinson 13 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf Should have clipped the tat on the chockstone straight away before venturing onto the face but by then courage had gone!!! Abseil retreat from the oval off a small chockstone also fun! Need to come back in the evening when the sun gets on the face and with a grade or two in hand.
with Craig Naylor, M.Lawton
Should have clipped the tat on the chockstone straight away before venturing onto the face but by then courage had gone!!! Abseil retreat from the oval off a small chockstone also fun! Need to come back in the evening when the sun gets on the face and with a grade or two in hand.
with Craig Naylor, M.Lawton
Hidden 13 Jul, 2011 2nd dnf
Hidden 10 Jul, 2011 2nd
S Lynch 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd
nicolat ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with James Mitchell
with James Mitchell
nicolat ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with James Mitchell
with James Mitchell
tom144807 5 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Richard Taylor
with Richard Taylor
Exodus 2 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Nice. Almost climbed full Great Flake, then reversed!! Think it would be fine though. Tim took descent fall
with Tim
Nice. Almost climbed full Great Flake, then reversed!! Think it would be fine though. Tim took descent fall
with Tim
y2keable 1 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Need some endurance for this climb, it's long and hard but awesome! It feels fantastic to climb the great flake. I think we started traversing off the flake instead of going straight to the top. It felt serious!
Need some endurance for this climb, it's long and hard but awesome! It feels fantastic to climb the great flake. I think we started traversing off the flake instead of going straight to the top. It felt serious!
Steven Andrews 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S led first 2 pitches, enjoyed (retrospectively) seconding the crux pitch, didn't enjoy seconding the sketchy offbalance traverse of teh fourth pitch and chickend out of what was afterall an easy final pitch. Great climb, character all the way and superb position. Bloody cold though.
with Andy Parsons, Kane
led first 2 pitches, enjoyed (retrospectively) seconding the crux pitch, didn't enjoy seconding the sketchy offbalance traverse of teh fourth pitch and chickend out of what was afterall an easy final pitch. Great climb, character all the way and superb position. Bloody cold though.
with Andy Parsons, Kane
andysroom 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead P3 and P6
Lead P3 and P6
Johnny Baker ??, 2011 -
with Dave Webster
with Dave Webster
adie84 ??, 2011 -
rurp ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 2nd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 2nd
Dave Rumney 4 Sep, 2010 -
Dave Rumney ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
with Tanya Milner
tim newton 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
darlolad 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Guy Wilson 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S With the 'Byron Buck Alternative' piano playing traverse across the flake. Numb Fingers. Good climb
with Byron Buck
With the 'Byron Buck Alternative' piano playing traverse across the flake. Numb Fingers. Good climb
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P3 and P5. Great flake pitch was great, although accidentally did a different line when out on the face as I didn't know I was meant to go straight up. Still felt about right at the grade though.
Led P3 and P5. Great flake pitch was great, although accidentally did a different line when out on the face as I didn't know I was meant to go straight up. Still felt about right at the grade though.
ablackett 31 May, 2010 AltLd Led the even pitches, second and last were a bit wet. Second pitch was a bit of a wader along grass ledges getting lost, but what a fantastic route. Only problem is that all the walkers don't stop and watch!
with Jonny Taylor
Led the even pitches, second and last were a bit wet. Second pitch was a bit of a wader along grass ledges getting lost, but what a fantastic route. Only problem is that all the walkers don't stop and watch!
with Jonny Taylor
jonny taylor 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S A great route. Lower pitches were wet, but great climbing higher up. Took a while to find the right line onto the flake, but once on it the crimpy face climbing was brilliant.
A great route. Lower pitches were wet, but great climbing higher up. Took a while to find the right line onto the flake, but once on it the crimpy face climbing was brilliant.
twoplates 23 May, 2010 -
with Neil MacKay
with Neil MacKay
cat22 22 May, 2010 2nd O/S
nic42 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd
with mike
with mike
Franco Cookson 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S managed to do it in one and a bit pitches. Best way to do it I reckon.
managed to do it in one and a bit pitches. Best way to do it I reckon.
melonmike 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Nick
with Nick
lukehunt 24 Apr, 2010 -
with francocookson
with francocookson
NickJH ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden 8 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Sut 7 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Small and weak ?Aug, 2009 AltLd Finished up last pitch of Nazgul - drier in the rain
with Ian Moore
Finished up last pitch of Nazgul - drier in the rain
with Ian Moore
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd
The Bad Cough 31 May, 2009 AltLd O/S pitch 1,2,4,5
with Lee Bonner, Tom Williams
pitch 1,2,4,5
with Lee Bonner, Tom Williams
rob1 30 May, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead
Andy Clarke 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S A classic expedition, zig-zagging its way up the face. Good exposure on fingery crux pitch. Enjoyed climbing it so much couldn't stop and overshot belay. Realised something had gone amiss when I found myself looking down on Botterill's Slab! Led Ps 1,3,5.
with rob1
A classic expedition, zig-zagging its way up the face. Good exposure on fingery crux pitch. Enjoyed climbing it so much couldn't stop and overshot belay. Realised something had gone amiss when I found myself looking down on Botterill's Slab! Led Ps 1,3,5.
with rob1
Chad123 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Best done in 3 pitches - run the first two together, do the excellent crux pitch then continue up pitch 3 of Nazgul and finally do the top pitch of Nazgul to finish...definitely worth 3 stars this way...
with Rik
Best done in 3 pitches - run the first two together, do the excellent crux pitch then continue up pitch 3 of Nazgul and finally do the top pitch of Nazgul to finish...definitely worth 3 stars this way...
with Rik
Hidden 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Spence22 ?May, 2009 - Climbed four people on two ropes Ed and Jo, Me and Charlie.
with shaw016
Climbed four people on two ropes Ed and Jo, Me and Charlie.
with shaw016
Dale ?May, 2009 AltLd O/S exposer is great i got the crux pitch
with dave
exposer is great i got the crux pitch
with dave
shaw016 ?May, 2009 2nd O/S Climbed at half 8 at night, with 4 climbers. We reached the top as it went dark. One of the most enjoyable climbs i have done!
with Craig Spence
Climbed at half 8 at night, with 4 climbers. We reached the top as it went dark. One of the most enjoyable climbs i have done!
with Craig Spence
buddha1369 18 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Lead Pitch's 2,4 & 5
with Simon B (OB)
Lead Pitch's 2,4 & 5
with Simon B (OB)
Lawrence Eccles 21 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
with P. Jackson, A. Crook
with P. Jackson, A. Crook
prcleary ??, 2009 -
Shaw Brown 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd Suffered a bit due to cold, dampish conditions. Still really enjoyed the route even with the adverse conditions. Nearly blew the flake pitch by going too high before traversing left, fantastic position once you are on the face of the flake.
Suffered a bit due to cold, dampish conditions. Still really enjoyed the route even with the adverse conditions. Nearly blew the flake pitch by going too high before traversing left, fantastic position once you are on the face of the flake.
Chris Beck ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Martin Davies 27 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Led P2,4+5. First E1! Tom lead the front of the flake, very glad he did it! P2 was WET, but overall a brilliant day with class weather.
with tomhull
Led P2,4+5. First E1! Tom lead the front of the flake, very glad he did it! P2 was WET, but overall a brilliant day with class weather.
with tomhull
tomhull 27 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S lead the 1st, 3rd and 6th pitchs
lead the 1st, 3rd and 6th pitchs
Jayney D 13 Jun, 2008 AltLd
with Ste D
with Ste D
Hidden 31 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 30 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Jim Keeley
with Jim Keeley
Rich Mayfield 30 Jul, 2007 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 30 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 9 Jun, 2007 AltLd
Rog Wilko ?May, 2007 AltLd Did Marr's variation. Supposed to be HVS 5a, but felt like 5b and poorly protected.
with Matt Gordon
Did Marr's variation. Supposed to be HVS 5a, but felt like 5b and poorly protected.
with Matt Gordon
runestone 15 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Mike B
with Mike B
C coldwell-storry ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Adam Gill
with Adam Gill
Zoomer 26 Aug, 2006 AltLd dnf Lead first two pitches, Paul led the crux but then the rain came leading to a drawn out retreat.
with Paul Chiddle
Lead first two pitches, Paul led the crux but then the rain came leading to a drawn out retreat.
with Paul Chiddle
Tom Phillips 26 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S flake variation is much beter than original route was
with Jarin
flake variation is much beter than original route was
with Jarin
fizzy_elephant 25 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Superb route. Well worth three stars
with stu
Superb route. Well worth three stars
with stu
Hidden 25 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 9 Jul, 2006 -
with Trobbo, MD
with Trobbo, MD
Trobbo 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with martin dale
with martin dale
Si dH 15 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1, 3, 5. Went a bit off-route on the front of the flake on p3 but held it together. Possibly my favourite ever route - how how how does it only get 2 stars??
with Kane Chandler
Led pitches 1, 3, 5. Went a bit off-route on the front of the flake on p3 but held it together. Possibly my favourite ever route - how how how does it only get 2 stars??
with Kane Chandler
chris m fisher 8 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Jake
with Jake
Hidden 8 Jun, 2006 AltLd
sgl 4 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
with Konnie
Hidden 4 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
ewen ?Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S
Ian Hinkins ?Apr, 2006 AltLd
with ewen
with ewen
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
John Kettle ??, 2006 AltLd
Pete Graham ??, 2006 AltLd
with Rick Graham
with Rick Graham
Ian Hinkins ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Ewen Turner
with Ewen Turner
Stone Muppet ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 9 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
simon kimber ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Chris Stirling
with Chris Stirling
richgibson ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with John
with John
JohnHutch ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S Did the E1 version - kept thinking I must have done the hard move, but they kept coming!
Did the E1 version - kept thinking I must have done the hard move, but they kept coming!
mike lawrence? 1 Jun, 2005 -
akhughes ??, 2005 AltLd
Justin Tracey ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Jimdanson
with Jimdanson
Bob 16 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Steve Brock
with Steve Brock
zero six ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Jul, 2003 AltLd
BenTiffin 2 Jun, 2003 AltLd
with Dan Robinson
with Dan Robinson
Mark Collins 19 Apr, 2003 AltLd dog
with Jane Riley
with Jane Riley
Hidden ?Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
piken ??, 2002 -
Hidden ?Jun, 2001 AltLd
alpinismo.uk ??, 2000 AltLd
Jonathan Richardson ??, 2000 2nd
Stone Muppet ??, 1999 Lead dnf scary - I backed off and Matt fell off, not realising the original line was no longer HVS but now E3
scary - I backed off and Matt fell off, not realising the original line was no longer HVS but now E3
phardman 20 Jul, 1997 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 1997 AltLd
with Al Powell
with Al Powell
Hidden 16 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
SR1970 ?Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 AltLd O/S
brianrunner ?Jul, 1992 -
with gordon innes
with gordon innes
crossleysm ??, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Pete Barras
with Pete Barras
keefe 29 Jul, 1991 -
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 1 Jun, 1991 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 15 Sep, 1990 AltLd Happy times
with Martin Coward
Happy times
with Martin Coward
Grezza 21 Jul, 1990 Lead O/S
Alan Scowcroft 26 May, 1990 -
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1990 Lead Epic day out, led the great flake pitch laybacking for glory, unaware the chockstone had gone very pleased to get my hands over the top of the flake. Not sure we finished up correct final pitches but got to the summit in twilight in June.
with Adrian F.
Epic day out, led the great flake pitch laybacking for glory, unaware the chockstone had gone very pleased to get my hands over the top of the flake. Not sure we finished up correct final pitches but got to the summit in twilight in June.
with Adrian F.
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 1990 -
Dave Cundy ?Jul, 1989 AltLd O/S
with Jerry Evans
with Jerry Evans
Hidden 22 Jun, 1989 AltLd
Alan Scowcroft 28 May, 1989 AltLd
with Angus Atkinson
with Angus Atkinson
Chris Ellis 17 May, 1989 AltLd
with Dan Morgan
with Dan Morgan
touriga 18 Jun, 1988 AltLd
with wrights
with wrights
Hidden 18 Jun, 1988 AltLd O/S
Neil McA 19 May, 1988 Solo O/S Amazing experience in the warm light of the last few minutes of a setting sun. The Great Flake went steadily but with great focus, then i 'woke up' and had a moment on a tricky exposed rightward traverse a couple of pitches higher.
with Roy Ruddle
Amazing experience in the warm light of the last few minutes of a setting sun. The Great Flake went steadily but with great focus, then i 'woke up' and had a moment on a tricky exposed rightward traverse a couple of pitches higher.
with Roy Ruddle
Brian Wilderspin 10 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
pauldrew ??, 1987 - First HVS lead before chockstone came out.
First HVS lead before chockstone came out.
Cog ?Jun, 1986 -
William Robertson ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Andy Fielding 25 Jul, 1984 AltLd
with Mike Gilbert
with Mike Gilbert
andybirtwistle 24 Jul, 1984 Lead
with Ernie Greenwood
with Ernie Greenwood
Bruce Kerr 18 Jun, 1984 Lead
with Sheila Bruce Lockhart
with Sheila Bruce Lockhart
Hidden ?May, 1984 Lead
Will Webb ??, 1984 - Cant remember date; do remember second refused to continue after `great flake, so abbed off and ropes got stuck. Being young and inexperienced we left them there!
with Nick Watkins
Cant remember date; do remember second refused to continue after `great flake, so abbed off and ropes got stuck. Being young and inexperienced we left them there!
with Nick Watkins
steveb2006 6 Aug, 1983 AltLd Also with 'Old Sid'. In the days when the chockstone was in and it was HVS 5a. - Led the flake pitch.
with Mike Pryzodski
Also with 'Old Sid'. In the days when the chockstone was in and it was HVS 5a. - Led the flake pitch.
with Mike Pryzodski
Hidden 30 Jul, 1983 AltLd O/S
John Marsland ?Jul, 1983 Lead dnf before the chock went south, fell off flake, hurt left ankle...
with Tony Rex
before the chock went south, fell off flake, hurt left ankle...
with Tony Rex
andyb211 ??, 1983 -
with George Rowley
with George Rowley
Gordon Stainforth 28 Aug, 1982 AltLd O/S John could not second the Great Flake. So we abseiled off. A bit of an epic!
with John Edwards
John could not second the Great Flake. So we abseiled off. A bit of an epic!
with John Edwards
MikeYouCanClimb 28 Aug, 1982 AltLd After graduating from potholing I always remembered my first climb as being HVS, now I find out I was wrong all these years, it was an E1! Even NW girdle at Almscliff is E1 as well now.
with Dave Dowson
After graduating from potholing I always remembered my first climb as being HVS, now I find out I was wrong all these years, it was an E1! Even NW girdle at Almscliff is E1 as well now.
with Dave Dowson
Hidden 26 Jul, 1982 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 1982 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 1982 AltLd O/S
Hammy 17 May, 1980 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
Nic Robinson 4 May, 1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
barny ??, 1980 Lead
robinsi197 ??, 1980 -
with Barbara
with Barbara
Pedro50 ?Sep, 1979 AltLd
with Helen Swift
with Helen Swift
Dave Musgrove 27 Aug, 1979 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
with Bob Knapton
Nigel Bond 15 Jul, 1978 Lead
with Dave Grey
with Dave Grey
D Tempest ?Jun, 1978 Lead
with Chris
with Chris
Chris Terrey ?Jun, 1978 Lead
with Roger Wilson
with Roger Wilson
RichardMc 13 Aug, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Patrick Radford
with Patrick Radford
Ken Taylor 1 Jul, 1977 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
uphillnow ?Jun, 1977 AltLd I did crux, done several times since
with john page, Al Bennett
I did crux, done several times since
with john page, Al Bennett
Hidden 22 May, 1977 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 20 May, 1977 Lead dnf
with John Broadwell
with John Broadwell
GeoffG 10 Jul, 1976 AltLd
with tony bowker
with tony bowker
GeoffG ?Jul, 1976 AltLd rubbish route. historical interest only. ledge shuffling with occasional upward movement
rubbish route. historical interest only. ledge shuffling with occasional upward movement
Marcus ??, 1976 -
Hidden 7 Jun, 1975 AltLd
clanger ??, 1975 -
with Keith Bostram
with Keith Bostram
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1973 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1973 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 21 Apr, 1971 - An ambition achieved
with JD
An ambition achieved
with JD
Campbell42 ??, 1970 AltLd O/S
with Peter Calam, David Cording
with Peter Calam, David Cording
Frank Boase ??, 1970 - The pitch after the Flake is beautifully delicate, after the strenuous Flake.
The pitch after the Flake is beautifully delicate, after the strenuous Flake.
mikej 28 Aug, 1968 AltLd With direct start and direct finish.
with Wil Hurford
With direct start and direct finish.
with Wil Hurford
jcw 28 Sep, 1966 AltLd I won the toss for the big pitch and then to my chagrin failed it!
with Richard Stewardson
I won the toss for the big pitch and then to my chagrin failed it!
with Richard Stewardson
Seymore Butt ??, 1965 AltLd
with Jack, Nev
with Jack, Nev
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 87
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set