UKC

122m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route of immense historical significance that weaves its way up the crag, taking in plenty of good climbing in increasingly spectacular situations. Start at a rib, just left of the base of Moss Gill, where Rake's Progress crosses it.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the rib and corner to below a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a short corner. Climb the corner then head left to a large grassy ledge below The Great Flake - 'The Oval'.
2) 5b, 25m. Gain the base of The Great Flake and move up it for 5m to a sloping ledge on the left. Traverse left along a thin crack for 2m before stepping up to a good hold. Continue up to gain a short crack that leads to the top of The Great Flake. Go left along the flake to reach a good ledge and belay on 'Jeffcoat's Ledge'.
2a) 5b, 25m. The original line tackled The Great Flake in its entirety. It lacks gear making this option now worth E2 although a very large cam brings it back down to E1.
3) 4c, 30m. Move left along the ledge and up a corner to a block (possible belay). Traverse right to a big pinnacle then on to a corner. Climb this to a ledge and belay on the right - 'The V-ledge'.
4) 5a, 35m. Starting at the left end of the ledge, climb a thin crack and move left until the large corner above can be reached. Climb the steep corner and at its top, head left to easier ground. © Rockfax

S.W.Herford, G.S.Sansom et al Apr/1914.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , MIA logbook must haves! , UK Lonely Leads , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes , FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs , Caff's Cool E1s List , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , A Lakeland E1 Odessey , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , EUMC - Must do climbs , Nuts of Legends , Hard Rock 2020 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Big Routes 2020 , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , Hard Rock & Other Classics , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Siegfried Herford’s First Ascents , 60 At 60 , Lakeland E1 Classics , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Bold Tradprenticeship , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Lakes Hard Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Cumbria for the Recreational User , E1's

Feedback

User Date Notes
jackmorford 9 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We ended up opting for Marr\'s variation on the great flake pitch and finishing up the Nazgul which was awesome. It had rained the night before quite heavily (and in fact the whole previous month - thanks summer 2023) and there was a lot of wet rock around (especially on P1 and a patch on P3) but nothing absolutely crucial, it certainly gave it some additional spice however.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We ended up opting for Marr's variation on the great flake pitch and finishing up the Nazgul which was awesome. It had rained the night before quite heavily (and in fact the whole previous month - thanks summer 2023) and there was a lot of wet rock around (especially on P1 and a patch on P3) but nothing absolutely crucial, it certainly gave it some additional spice however.
ed edwards 30 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Sold as a classic, probably not worth fagging the gear all the way up there.
βeta?
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βeta: Sold as a classic, probably not worth fagging the gear all the way up there.
joeramsay 19 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A big purple cam is tipped out (or falling out) at the crux of the great flake - take a big green if you want to be maximally safe
Show beta
βeta: A big purple cam is tipped out (or falling out) at the crux of the great flake - take a big green if you want to be maximally safe
mattjoynson 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: #6 Dragon cam (Silver) is not large enough to protect the flake. I think it might need a #8.
Show beta
βeta: #6 Dragon cam (Silver) is not large enough to protect the flake. I think it might need a #8.
Frank Boase 14 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch.
Show beta
βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 106
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 102
Votes cast 102
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gormenghast

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Heron Crag, Eskdale)

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