Rockfax Description
An historically significant classic that forges a sideways line up the lower face of the pinnacle. Best combined with Slingsby's Chimney (p.§§§) to finish. Start below a corner 4m left of the edge of the buttress.
1) 4a, 30m. Climb the corner to a grass ledge and then up a short wall to another grass ledge next to a block. From the block move up to a slim overlap and traverse left along 'The Gangway' to its end. Keep traversing a short way to a belay in a niche - 'First Nest'.
2) 20m. Climb direct for 8m and then step left into a corner (shared with Hopkinson's Gully). Move up a little way until it is possible to traverse left to a good ledge and belay on the arete - 'The Waiting Room'.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up to an alcove and make a balancy move up onto a slim ledge on its right. Shuffle right and climb a wide crack (shared with Hopkinson's Gully) to a ledge and belay. The 'balancy move' may be avoided by a hand-traverse to gain the wide crack.
4) 10m. Tackle the chimney above to the top of 'The Crevasse' where the belay at the base of Slingsby's Chimney is reached. This is pitch 3 of Hopkinson's Gully. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, Mountain Rock

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Pete Rigby 21 Sep AltLd Classic rock round - moved together
with Josh
Classic rock round - moved together
with Josh
Paul Figg 21 Sep Solo
Joshcastril 21 Sep AltLd O/S As part of Lakes Classic Rock Challenge - Simmuled
As part of Lakes Classic Rock Challenge - Simmuled
Hidden 16 Jul AltLd
Stuart Hurworth 6 Jul AltLd O/S Amazing phycologically challinging route! Something to think about on every pitch. Found the traverse sketchy to gain (as the good gear is just out of reach!) and just as sketchy to continue, although managed to find hand holds and gear reasonably continuously, including a micro wire. Foot slipped at one point though! Mantelshelf well protected but looked really difficult, stepped around the corner slightly lower with a big step and then did the mantel on the face. 1st chimney slimey and awkward to enter, easier above until Slingsbys! Brilliant top out in the sun!
Amazing phycologically challinging route! Something to think about on every pitch. Found the traverse sketchy to gain (as the good gear is just out of reach!) and just as sketchy to continue, although managed to find hand holds and gear reasonably continuously, including a micro wire. Foot slipped at one point though! Mantelshelf well protected but looked really difficult, stepped around the corner slightly lower with a big step and then did the mantel on the face. 1st chimney slimey and awkward to enter, easier above until Slingsbys! Brilliant top out in the sun!
chris m fisher 23 Apr Solo
Alpenglow 21 Apr Lead O/S Serious route with an alpine feel. The P1 gangway was very delicate and bold. Awkward crux on P3 after the waiting room. Overhanging 'Diff' chimney higher up, finishing with a knife edge arete. Make sure you abseil into the grassy col off the pinnacle and not the gully below...
with Adam M
Serious route with an alpine feel. The P1 gangway was very delicate and bold. Awkward crux on P3 after the waiting room. Overhanging 'Diff' chimney higher up, finishing with a knife edge arete. Make sure you abseil into the grassy col off the pinnacle and not the gully below...
with Adam M
Hidden ?? -
JackO3522 ?? -
JackO3522 ?? -
Hidden ?? -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
Euan S 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Heather Milne 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Euan S
with Euan S
Conan 26 Jul, 2018 Lead
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
j.buckley87 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
chris m fisher 6 Jul, 2018 Solo
Hidden 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2018 2nd
farmus21 3 Jul, 2018 Lead Moving together
with Steve Franklin
Moving together
with Steve Franklin
sn 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Enjoyable varied ascent to the summit of the Pinnacle. Finished via an apparent variant to the left of Slingsby's Chimney, as did not fancy SC with a sack ! Nice Alpine finish too. Long walk back to Eskdale..
with Denise
Enjoyable varied ascent to the summit of the Pinnacle. Finished via an apparent variant to the left of Slingsby's Chimney, as did not fancy SC with a sack ! Nice Alpine finish too. Long walk back to Eskdale..
with Denise
sparkass 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Better than the guidebook would have you believe - lots of fun. The overhanging chimney above is pretty wild for VDiff and the alpine style arete at the top is worthwhile. Simul in no time.
with steely
Better than the guidebook would have you believe - lots of fun. The overhanging chimney above is pretty wild for VDiff and the alpine style arete at the top is worthwhile. Simul in no time.
with steely
steely 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Moved together.
Moved together.
yossarian714 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P3 & 4
with Alex Shipp, Becky Stokes
Led P3 & 4
with Alex Shipp, Becky Stokes
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
cheeky 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
mark4344 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Matt Payne
with Matt Payne
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2018 -
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2018 Lead
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2018 Lead
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2018 Lead
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2018 Lead
Dave Mason 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
with Darren Belfield
rurp 27 May, 2018 Lead O/S Tricky on the first pitch gangway, then a bit broken and loose in places. Good adventure though, like a mini alpine route
with Nigel
Tricky on the first pitch gangway, then a bit broken and loose in places. Good adventure though, like a mini alpine route
with Nigel
JendeHoxar 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 19 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
JSCB ??, 2018 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 17 Sep, 2017 AltLd Route two of our triple link up. Lead P1&2 together, then Jonny lead 3&4 together to the top. Amazing rock and some very classical moves. Abbed into deep gill, then across and down Lords Rake. One more to go!
Route two of our triple link up. Lead P1&2 together, then Jonny lead 3&4 together to the top. Amazing rock and some very classical moves. Abbed into deep gill, then across and down Lords Rake. One more to go!
mark4344 10 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Great mountain climb, some spaced gear on lower pitches.thrutchy chimney moves higher up.initially started too low and traversed lower grass terrace,before realizing obvious tat belay to begin.amazing top out on knife edge arête. 2 short abseils to get down onto mickledore side,then topped out on Scafell pike.
with James P
Great mountain climb, some spaced gear on lower pitches.thrutchy chimney moves higher up.initially started too low and traversed lower grass terrace,before realizing obvious tat belay to begin.amazing top out on knife edge arête. 2 short abseils to get down onto mickledore side,then topped out on Scafell pike.
with James P
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 Lead
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 2nd
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2017 Lead
JackO3522 21 Jun, 2017 Lead
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 2nd
joermann 26 May, 2017 AltLd
chris m fisher 10 May, 2017 Solo
joe_lancs 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd
jonathan_doyle 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Sarah Roscoe 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Matt Harmon 6 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1, 2. Sparse gear on P. finished up slingsby chimney
Led P1, 2. Sparse gear on P. finished up slingsby chimney
joermann 1 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Dave Mahon 29 Jun, 2016 Lead A brilliant mountain day. Sunny, nil wind but still a bit chilly on the climb. Route finding was a problem. Went up Slingsby's Chimney - old school and committing for the grade. Knife edge arete was a joy and the ab down is initially exciting until you see the convenient grassy ledge. Glad to tick this in good conditions - it could be an epic in cold rain.
with Simon Thomas
A brilliant mountain day. Sunny, nil wind but still a bit chilly on the climb. Route finding was a problem. Went up Slingsby's Chimney - old school and committing for the grade. Knife edge arete was a joy and the ab down is initially exciting until you see the convenient grassy ledge. Glad to tick this in good conditions - it could be an epic in cold rain.
with Simon Thomas
Hidden 19 Jun, 2016 2nd
David_Gledson 8 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Felt like a variation on Hopkinsons gully, but good overall route. Would go nicely as a solo. Crux is near the start of the first pitch, then the mantleshelf which felt okay.
with Arty
Felt like a variation on Hopkinsons gully, but good overall route. Would go nicely as a solo. Crux is near the start of the first pitch, then the mantleshelf which felt okay.
with Arty
nicks 8 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Ed Hastings
with Ed Hastings
Arty 8 Jun, 2016 2nd missed a bit out where should have gone left to get to the Waiting room. new guide a lot better at showing route and access than old. worth carrying, heavier but at least you can see where to go
missed a bit out where should have gone left to get to the Waiting room. new guide a lot better at showing route and access than old. worth carrying, heavier but at least you can see where to go
maumau 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
glaramara 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd Dare I say I was slightly dissappointed at how contrived this route is? You avoid the natural line to take in the crux, which is awkward more than anything. Made a pathetic attempt at leading the top gully but ended up flopping about like a dead fish. I blame being eaten by midges all day. Not much blood left.
with Mau mau
Dare I say I was slightly dissappointed at how contrived this route is? You avoid the natural line to take in the crux, which is awkward more than anything. Made a pathetic attempt at leading the top gully but ended up flopping about like a dead fish. I blame being eaten by midges all day. Not much blood left.
with Mau mau
Graeme Hammond 4 Jun, 2016 Solo O/S
gingerking ?Jun, 2016 Solo
with Alan
with Alan
Hidden 12 May, 2016 Lead O/S
scottidog 8 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Missed the turn off to the waiting room and followed the obvious corner slab to the crevasse. Finished via Hopkinsons gulley. Second route of the day after moss ghyll grooves
with Hugh Jordan
Missed the turn off to the waiting room and followed the obvious corner slab to the crevasse. Finished via Hopkinsons gulley. Second route of the day after moss ghyll grooves
with Hugh Jordan
ali macphee 17 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
carl_123 16 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Oct, 2015 2nd
bidean 3 Oct, 2015 Lead
Darrell Read 28 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with robbiek
with robbiek
robbiek ?Sep, 2015 2nd
with Darrell Read
with Darrell Read
NickR ?Sep, 2015 Lead
Hidden 18 Aug, 2015 -
Tom Cox 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd
johnself1603 ?Jan, 2015 2nd
johnself1603 ?Jan, 2015 2nd
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
pistal10 ??, 2015 Lead O/S
john jennings ??, 2015 AltLd Excellent day out, the traverse is memorable.
with Dave
Excellent day out, the traverse is memorable.
with Dave
Hidden ??, 2015 -
seanprendiville 12 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Karin, Tessa
with Karin, Tessa
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 Lead
jon59 23 Jul, 2014 -
KevB 23 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jon Evans
with Jon Evans
bigrob 1 Jul, 2014 Lead
with em whitehouse
with em whitehouse
Hidden 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd
nick ferro 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd Led pitch 2 and knife edge arete.
with C R Lucy, Oli Birkill
Led pitch 2 and knife edge arete.
with C R Lucy, Oli Birkill
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
nj.harris ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
chris smith 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S In 2 pitches. C led led P1 (to where it crosses Hopkinson's Gully). Poorly protected at the start and hard for the short! Finished up Slingsby's Chimney.
with Lemming
In 2 pitches. C led led P1 (to where it crosses Hopkinson's Gully). Poorly protected at the start and hard for the short! Finished up Slingsby's Chimney.
with Lemming
ChrisH.19 9 Jun, 2013 2nd
johnself1603 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
beds74 31 May, 2013 Lead The last of my 'Classic Lakes' ticks. A great route, pitch one found the trickiest. Felt harder than the given HS grade - This pitch would not be suited to a nervous second...
with J1PEF
The last of my 'Classic Lakes' ticks. A great route, pitch one found the trickiest. Felt harder than the given HS grade - This pitch would not be suited to a nervous second...
with J1PEF
J1PEF 30 May, 2013 2nd Interesting moves on first pitch, classic route and a good outing!
with beds74
Interesting moves on first pitch, classic route and a good outing!
with beds74
chris ginge ??, 2013 Lead
Andy Chadwick ??, 2013 -
a13x 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Tricky traverse, really slimey rock, got better as progressed up route. Finished up Slingby's chimney, 2 amazing top pitchs on the chimney itself followed by the knife-edge ridge, one of the best top pitches I've done in the Lakes, finishing right ontop of the Pinnacle! Quality.
with a13x
Tricky traverse, really slimey rock, got better as progressed up route. Finished up Slingby's chimney, 2 amazing top pitchs on the chimney itself followed by the knife-edge ridge, one of the best top pitches I've done in the Lakes, finishing right ontop of the Pinnacle! Quality.
with a13x
Justin Tracey 30 Mar, 2012 AltLd
with Steve Hall
with Steve Hall
JonG ??, 2012 -
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
antclark6381 ??, 2012 -
Ste Ridd 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with manmike
with manmike
manmike 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
DaveAllen 4 Jun, 2011 2nd dog slipped on crux, but made it on second attempt
with Andy Muir
slipped on crux, but made it on second attempt
with Andy Muir
Graham Westbrook 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent route! Tricky mantle on the 3rd pitch. Very varied and interesting climb. Finished up Slingsbys chimney and knife edge arete.
Excellent route! Tricky mantle on the 3rd pitch. Very varied and interesting climb. Finished up Slingsbys chimney and knife edge arete.
Smudge03 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Ran the pitches out
Ran the pitches out
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Paul Boggis ??, 2011 AltLd
rurp ??, 2011 Lead
brianrunner ??, 2011 -
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
willson 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with chris
with chris
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
johnjb 5 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Tricky route-finding, one hard move on each of pitches 1-3 (JS, H, JS), felt a bit exposed but fairly grippy rock. I led pitch 4 up chimney to crevasse then Slingsby's chimney route.
with Helen T, John Stockton
Tricky route-finding, one hard move on each of pitches 1-3 (JS, H, JS), felt a bit exposed but fairly grippy rock. I led pitch 4 up chimney to crevasse then Slingsby's chimney route.
with Helen T, John Stockton
jcurley 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with FedUp
with FedUp
Roger Cruse 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Kris
with Kris
alan moore ?Apr, 2010 - Bold padding on the Gangway!
Bold padding on the Gangway!
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
BALD EAGLE 25 Jul, 2009 Lead
with Rob Horler
with Rob Horler
Hidden 25 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
petegunn 25 Jun, 2009 AltLd
jimorothy 18 Apr, 2009 Lead Ace gangway, amazed the belay a bit pants in the waiting room. Mantelshelf absolute classic move.
with Rachel Crolla
Ace gangway, amazed the belay a bit pants in the waiting room. Mantelshelf absolute classic move.
with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 4 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
decs 14 May, 2008 AltLd
with Ian
with Ian
Peter Metcalfe 14 May, 2008 AltLd
with Gill Ainsworth
with Gill Ainsworth
Gybebunny 14 May, 2008 2nd
with Peter Metcalf
with Peter Metcalf
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden ?Mar, 2007 Lead
Caralynh 16 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S Climbed as 3 pitch, led 1 and 3
with Dave Fletcher
Climbed as 3 pitch, led 1 and 3
with Dave Fletcher
The Bad Cough 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt
with John Nesbitt
Hidden 17 Jun, 2006 AltLd
DerwentDiluted ?May, 2005 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
with Nicola Pettit
Steve Lenartowicz ??, 2005 -
with John N
with John N
Ken lindsay ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
Iain Brown 25 Aug, 2003 -
with Ricardo
with Ricardo
biggianthead 14 Jun, 2003 -
with T
with T
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 -
MaNimal 5 Jul, 1999 AltLd
with Rob Whiteman
with Rob Whiteman
Fatherof2 ?Aug, 1998 -
with Richie
with Richie
Tom V 15 Jun, 1996 AltLd
with John Ganley
with John Ganley
CHADWICK64 ??, 1996 -
with Jon Sussman, Phil Barber
with Jon Sussman, Phil Barber
Ian Robertson 24 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S Climbed it with big sack with bivvy gear, took leader fall at 4a mantleshelf, oops!
with Krystina Lotoczko
Climbed it with big sack with bivvy gear, took leader fall at 4a mantleshelf, oops!
with Krystina Lotoczko
Dave Westby ??, 1995 -
johnyspuitnik 16 Oct, 1994 Lead O/S
djwilse 9 May, 1993 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1993 Solo
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
Nickwild ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Paul Myers
with Paul Myers
Nigel Bond 21 Jul, 1990 Lead
rogerskews 21 Jul, 1990 AltLd
Hammy 10 May, 1990 AltLd
with Pete Smith
with Pete Smith
lithos 5 May, 1990 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 15 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?Jun, 1989 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
with Debbie Wilkinson
Andy Say 25 Jun, 1988 Solo
Paula Hamilton-Gibson 11 Jun, 1988 Solo
stewart murray ?May, 1988 AltLd
with Alastair Fletcher
with Alastair Fletcher
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd
Bob 14 Sep, 1986 Solo O/S
biggianthead 17 Jul, 1983 -
with G
with G
JohnHutch 5 Jun, 1982 Lead
with DT
with DT
MikeDowsett 5 Jun, 1982 AltLd
with Jon Sharpe
with Jon Sharpe
Hidden ?Jun, 1982 AltLd
biggianthead ?Jun, 1982 -
with HT
with HT
charlesmfrench 17 Apr, 1981 Solo O/S
chris skipton ?Apr, 1981 AltLd
with peter latimer
with peter latimer
ill_bill ??, 1981 Lead
Nic Robinson 4 May, 1980 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Solo
Nigel Coe 26 Aug, 1978 Lead
with Jackie Coe
with Jackie Coe
Bob M ?Aug, 1978 Lead
with Jenny Henderson, Roy Fisher
with Jenny Henderson, Roy Fisher
DonnyDave 10 May, 1978 AltLd
with Steve Holgarth
with Steve Holgarth
Hidden 10 Aug, 1975 AltLd O/S
57 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 16
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set