Rockfax Description
Sensational positions and complex route finding combine to deliver a memorable climb. Start as for Great Eastern Route.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb up to a slabby ramp and then move up right to a corner. Follow this to a ledge, then take the cracks above to another ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb the corner above for 3m before moving left to an easing on the edge. Move up for 5m and then head back right across the wide corner/groove to a stance and belay.
3) 5a, 18m. Move right to below a slim right-facing corner and climb it for 5m until it is possible to traverse back left to regain the wide corner. Continue up the corner to a slab and move right up a step (as for Great Eastern Route) to another ramp and belay.
4) 4c, 14m. Move slightly right and gain a narrow ramp in the steep wall above. Follow the ramp left and then head up to a stance on a slab below a corner.
5) 4c, 30m. Move up left to a pinnacle and then back right to a block below a corner-crack. Climb the layback crack to the top. © Rockfax

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MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, UK Holiday Plans, Lakes HVS, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Robbie Blease 20 Sep AltLd O/S With packs on. A great way to finish the day by heading over scafell with an awesome sunset!
with Ted F
With packs on. A great way to finish the day by heading over scafell with an awesome sunset!
with Ted F
Ted F 20 Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jun AltLd dog
Ian MK 5 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Epic! Lead all pitches. FRCC line on pitch 2 is wrong so lost confidence in the guide book. Traverse on pitch 3 looked to have unreasonable amount of gear so unconvinced I went straight up into a difficult mantle and found myself at the end of the traverse from the P4 stance. Pulled gently on the perched boulder.... Stunning positions and a real appreciation for first acetantists! Finished in the dark, with head torches at the foot of the climb (again). Had to summit scafell to find the tedious scree decent. Conditions were fortunately in our favour!!
Epic! Lead all pitches. FRCC line on pitch 2 is wrong so lost confidence in the guide book. Traverse on pitch 3 looked to have unreasonable amount of gear so unconvinced I went straight up into a difficult mantle and found myself at the end of the traverse from the P4 stance. Pulled gently on the perched boulder.... Stunning positions and a real appreciation for first acetantists! Finished in the dark, with head torches at the foot of the climb (again). Had to summit scafell to find the tedious scree decent. Conditions were fortunately in our favour!!
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 2nd
joe.91 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Take 2, much cleaner this time around. Amazing positions, the final layback crack is unreal!
Take 2, much cleaner this time around. Amazing positions, the final layback crack is unreal!
Harry Ellis 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led 1,3,5. Amazing audacious route through jawdropping exposure at a reasonable grade. The traverse on p3 would be scary without a small wire and small cam. Section up to the blocks on ledge is steady, nearly went wrong up the crack on the left but had a look back right and found the way. Top layback is awesome!
with cal reid
Led 1,3,5. Amazing audacious route through jawdropping exposure at a reasonable grade. The traverse on p3 would be scary without a small wire and small cam. Section up to the blocks on ledge is steady, nearly went wrong up the crack on the left but had a look back right and found the way. Top layback is awesome!
with cal reid
JendeHoxar 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
AlistairBerridge 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P2&4. Sustained. Great climbing but not always good gear or rock
P2&4. Sustained. Great climbing but not always good gear or rock
Alkis 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Felt deathy in places, with rock perched where rock shouldn't logically be perched, dirty holds above dubious gear on suspect rock while reaching up for said perched rock, etc. At least it was bone dry. Definitely not a climb to do as a three, too much faff to protect both seconds on everyone's part. It could do with more traffic to clean it up a bit of any loose rock, which is the idea behind the Arcteryx Lakeland Revival anyway, but care should be taken. Lead P1 and P5.
Felt deathy in places, with rock perched where rock shouldn't logically be perched, dirty holds above dubious gear on suspect rock while reaching up for said perched rock, etc. At least it was bone dry. Definitely not a climb to do as a three, too much faff to protect both seconds on everyone's part. It could do with more traffic to clean it up a bit of any loose rock, which is the idea behind the Arcteryx Lakeland Revival anyway, but care should be taken. Lead P1 and P5.
Flavio 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Superb route, one of the most devious lines I climbed. In 4 pitches in perfect nick which doesn't look like its often. Mmmm swaaaggg.
Superb route, one of the most devious lines I climbed. In 4 pitches in perfect nick which doesn't look like its often. Mmmm swaaaggg.
OliverRoss 20 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P3. Did it for the free lakeland revival hat. Maybe not worth it, despite how good sections of it are. Very loose on P1, and on P5 we were all amazed at how the pinnacles and boulders were still firmly in place on the mountain.
P3. Did it for the free lakeland revival hat. Maybe not worth it, despite how good sections of it are. Very loose on P1, and on P5 we were all amazed at how the pinnacles and boulders were still firmly in place on the mountain.
joe.91 19 May, 2018 AltLd dnf Abbed off as in dirty condition, left a nut and sling would appreciate return if found!
Abbed off as in dirty condition, left a nut and sling would appreciate return if found!
Graeme Hammond 14 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Total classic finding a amazing line zigzagging up the buttress!! Hard for HVS+!
with Neil Colquhoun
Total classic finding a amazing line zigzagging up the buttress!! Hard for HVS+!
with Neil Colquhoun
duncana 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd Great route, lots of interest, and excellent top pitch. I led P1 and P4
with David Bourne, Pippa Archer
Great route, lots of interest, and excellent top pitch. I led P1 and P4
with David Bourne, Pippa Archer
mike lawrence? 25 May, 2017 AltLd
with Javi
with Javi
Hidden 9 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd
joermann 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden 24 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
colin milton 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd lead p2&4
lead p2&4
martrin 23 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Paul Wood
with Paul Wood
gav 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd Peter ran P1 and P2 together. I did P3. Then Peter did P4, running to the Pinnacle on P5. I then lead the rest of P5 including the layback. Gear sparse and awkward to place at times. Abundant in the layback but very tiring to place! Route has lots of traversing back and forth and fun groove climbing. A brilliant way to wind up the crag, but felt tough; even the "easy" 4c pitches make you work for it. Line in latest (2014 FRCC) guide seems to go up the wrong crack for the final layback.
Peter ran P1 and P2 together. I did P3. Then Peter did P4, running to the Pinnacle on P5. I then lead the rest of P5 including the layback. Gear sparse and awkward to place at times. Abundant in the layback but very tiring to place! Route has lots of traversing back and forth and fun groove climbing. A brilliant way to wind up the crag, but felt tough; even the "easy" 4c pitches make you work for it. Line in latest (2014 FRCC) guide seems to go up the wrong crack for the final layback.
Peter Metcalfe 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd Like a rock climbing version of Super Mario!
with Gavin Whittingham
Like a rock climbing version of Super Mario!
with Gavin Whittingham
rholdswo ?Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Kirill 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2, P3, P5. Really really good!
Led P2, P3, P5. Really really good!
LovelyMrTom 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1 and 4. Excellent route.
with Kirill
Lead pitches 1 and 4. Excellent route.
with Kirill
oliverk 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Pitches 2, 3 and 5
with Alys
Pitches 2, 3 and 5
with Alys
NickJH 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with DHartley, M Dale
with DHartley, M Dale
DavidEvans 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd pitches.
with Joe Bawden, John Helme
Led 1st and 3rd pitches.
with Joe Bawden, John Helme
Rob Rocket 25 May, 2013 2nd
with Dave Parton & Scott Young
with Dave Parton & Scott Young
Andy Chadwick ??, 2013 -
jonny taylor 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Could have done with a little more protection in places...
with Mike
Could have done with a little more protection in places...
with Mike
markfairbank 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Tough for the grade i think, with tricky route finding and at times awkward gear. Absolutely beautiful day though :)
with Ray Sharples
Tough for the grade i think, with tricky route finding and at times awkward gear. Absolutely beautiful day though :)
with Ray Sharples
Adi Hooper 26 May, 2012 2nd Led 1st pitch.
Led 1st pitch.
Scooter Young ??, 2012 -
S Lynch 2 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
scott gibson 2 May, 2011 AltLd
with S Lynch
with S Lynch
PTatts 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with bionik
with bionik
Hidden 30 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Scraggadoo 26 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with tomhull
with tomhull
tomhull 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Airy fun, lots of weaving
with Ben Scraggs
Airy fun, lots of weaving
with Ben Scraggs
Paul Boggis ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Spence22 ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 -
Steve Hill 2 May, 2009 AltLd dnf Lead the first pitch, second pitch turned out to be unclimbable due to seepage. Retreated by abseil off 2 wallnuts.
Lead the first pitch, second pitch turned out to be unclimbable due to seepage. Retreated by abseil off 2 wallnuts.
shaw016 ?May, 2009 2nd O/S Do not climb this on a lovely sunny day in the afternoon, you will be cold!!
Do not climb this on a lovely sunny day in the afternoon, you will be cold!!
Hidden 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
ewen 14 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S fantastic
fantastic
John Kettle 14 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with ewen
with ewen
chris m fisher 9 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jake
with Jake
Hidden 9 Jun, 2006 AltLd
John Kettle ??, 2006 AltLd
Shaw Brown 17 Jul, 2005 AltLd
with David Jones
with David Jones
Hidden 1 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 16 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
Neil Ireson ?Jul, 2003 Lead
with Jane
with Jane
onefootholdinthegrave ?Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
with The Jerv
with The Jerv
Pete Graham ??, 2001 2nd
with Rick Graham
with Rick Graham
stewart murray ?Sep, 1998 AltLd Led p1, p3 & p5. Best route in the Lakes I've done up to this grade. P2 is top end.
with Alastair Fletcher
Led p1, p3 & p5. Best route in the Lakes I've done up to this grade. P2 is top end.
with Alastair Fletcher
Ratfeeder 16 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S 5a pitches led
with Kim C
5a pitches led
with Kim C
Dave Westby ??, 1997 Lead
Mick King 15 Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S Led P1, 3 & 5
with Steve Lavender
Led P1, 3 & 5
with Steve Lavender
SimonN 24 Jun, 1995 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1994 AltLd
keefe 13 Jun, 1992 -
mik1miller 6 Jun, 1992 Solo
p.crooky#1 ??, 1992 AltLd
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
biggianthead ?Jun, 1990 -
with HT
with HT
The Reaper 23 Jul, 1989 AltLd
Steve Crowe 15 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S and again with Karin on 15 June 1996
and again with Karin on 15 June 1996
mikej 4 Jul, 1989 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Hidden 23 Jun, 1989 AltLd
steveb2006 21 Jun, 1986 AltLd
with Mervyn Dudley
with Mervyn Dudley
Hidden 19 Jul, 1984 AltLd
charlesmfrench 18 Jun, 1983 AltLd O/S S,2,2,L,L,L.
with Ian Milne
S,2,2,L,L,L.
with Ian Milne
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1979 AltLd
with Alan Walmsley
with Alan Walmsley
Ken Taylor 1 Jul, 1977 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 22 May, 1977 Lead
uphillnow 18 Jul, 1976 AltLd
Hidden 26 Jun, 1976 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?Aug, 1975 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Hidden 28 Jun, 1975 Lead
Steve Clegg 21 Jun, 1975 Lead on my birthday after being woken at 05:00 by 4 peaks runners.
with Pete Shackleton
on my birthday after being woken at 05:00 by 4 peaks runners.
with Pete Shackleton
Ian Jones ?Jun, 1975 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton and Paul thingy from Durham Uni.
with Chris Newton and Paul thingy from Durham Uni.
Martin Bennett 27 Aug, 1972 -
with RA
with RA
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set