16m. Takes direct line up the wall to the left of Bass Drum Heart. The first half has no protection whilst the more difficult top section is protected by a thread and Dixon ironmongery. The crux is left right till the end! Sustained.

Nick Dixon 1987

Ticklists: Nesscliffe: Marlene Face routes.

Ed Booth 29/Oct/17 TR rpt

x2 tried to not use the bad finger

Phil Davidson 18/Oct/17 Lead RP
with Karl Smith, Dave Greenald
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

Another stunner, although the rock lower down isn’t quite as good as some of the others. Beneficial to have a good reach, if you do it’s glory from beginning to end...

Hidden 17/Sep/17 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead dnf
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead dnf
Ramon Marin 05/Nov/16 TR dog

wow, felt harder than My Piano, albeit way safer

with Calum musket
Ed Booth 30/Oct/16 TR rpt
with Dan McManus, Calum Musket
Ed Booth 20/Mar/16 TR
with Rob Ireson
Hidden 01/Jan/16 Lead β
Javis 16/Aug/15 TR rpt
alaan 12/Jul/15 TR

Took a few goes to work out the top - could only juuuust reach. Perhaps one to return to.

with Will
Sarah Black 27/Jun/15 TR dog
Adam Booth 27/May/15 TR RP

Finally got it in a one-er. Just got to lead it now!

Adam Booth 04/Oct/14 TR RP

Finally got the top move.

dominic lee 31/Aug/14 Lead RP


switch 24/Jun/14 TR β

Must be v reach-dependent. Felt like 7a+ish for me, at 6'1".

with Ali M, Phil B
Hidden 18/Jun/14 TR
Adam Booth 18/Jun/14 TR dog

Great to be out again!

Ed Booth 05/May/14 TR rpt


Gus 05/May/14 Lead

Couple of cheeky top ropes then dispatched placing gear on lead. Good fun! 7b+

with ed booth
Ally Smith 04/May/14 Lead RP

Headpoint. First hard trad route in years! Felt steady with good sport fitness

PeteWilson 23/Apr/14 TR

hard, but awesome!

with Andi T, Dave
andi turner 23/Apr/14 Lead

What a belting route. Protected the lower wall with tricams. Really builds up to a crescendo!

with Aniseed Dave
Ed Booth 05/Apr/14 TR

training. slipped off last move. so so greasy and smeggy today.

with Edwin Mitchell, Rob Ireson, Adam Booth
mhawk 25/Mar/14 TR dnf

Surprised myself, just the last move I couldn't manage which I put down to shoulder injury and 'the flu'! Really have stepped my game up!

anguskille 24/Mar/14 Lead RP

Lead it as it was coming into the sun. Found it flowed far better on the lead, couldn't get it all clean on the top-rope! nice to climb something well dialed

Adam Booth 10/Dec/13 TR dog
with Calum Musket, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 10/Dec/13 TR rpt
with Calum Musket, Adam Booth
Adam Booth 08/Dec/13 TR dnf
MorganPreece 25/May/13 TR RP

After some beta from Ben and a quick dog up on the warm up. Very lead able just to hot today, need to wire the bottem to :-) None of the moves feel that hard, all there. just need to grow some balls for the first bit

monsteratt 25/May/13 TR dog

Worked the bottom crux moves on first attempt, but failed on final crux then got to last move in one on second attempt and figured out top move. Dogged on third attempt

with Sam T, Ben M, Morgan Preece
grady ?/May/13 Lead RP
grady ?/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Sep/12 TR dog
mikeski 11/Aug/12 TR
with alek
alek 11/Aug/12 TR dnf
nathanlee 28/Jul/12 Lead RP

Stunning route, top roped cleanly once then lead first go putting the gear in. Almost off on last move, spicy times!

with Dom Lee
najki_2000 01/Jul/12 TR dnf

could not figure out a very reachy move above the huge hole (being 5'5); up to there lovely pocket pulling

JM 05/Jun/12 Lead RP

Amazing climb! Unfortunately I ripped the good bit off the undercut at the top. The long move at the top is a bit harder now.

with Andrew Stripp
Ed Booth 23/May/12 TR rpt


with Caro Ciavaldini
Ally Smith 14/May/11 TR
Ally Smith 05/Sep/10 TR RP
with Mr Shunt
Alex Mason 01/Sep/10 Lead RP

Get in!Tried yesterday on tr a few times found a few bits tricky so worked them but didnt think the top move was possible with my reach; later in the evening got beta off Boothy for top move and managed to get top crimp off two lower smears at full reach. 1rp yesterday, 2nd rp today. At 5'9 with a slightly negative ape index the top move is just reachable, so chuffed to latch it. Bold start. E7/8 6c, F7c/+ imo.

Mike Goldthorp 01/Sep/10 Lead G/U

Fell off on flash attempt on the (relatively) easy deep-mono move after havin to really try to get through first crux! Cam ripped and smacked me in the head - bled everywhere. Lowered off, came back the next day and sent! Top crux felt ok, locked the undercut up to the crimp easily, then pullin through felt insecure! E7 6b/c - 2 hard cruxes but both safe. Easier for tall

Ed Booth 31/Aug/10 TR RP
with Mikey G, Al Mason, smaller rich
TomPR ?/May/10 Lead
valecoastclimber 27/Sep/09 Lead RP
Ally Smith 20/Apr/09 TR RP

Couple of clean top-ropes. Looked at the gear; it's too good to be E8, with what is fairly steady climbing.

with Mr Shunt
smallerrich 12/Apr/09 Lead RP

Incredible route, fell off it twice on the last hold!! Definitely not E8 - hard E7. Cheers for the belay Fennerz.

Ed Booth 08/Apr/09 Lead RP

Felt good. Was getting good recovery on the big holds and managed to get in quite a bit of other good gear next to the fixed gear. Nice to get another project finished.

with smaller rich
Ally Smith 03/Apr/09 TR RP

Weird pegs

with Mr Shunt
fennerz 27/Sep/08 TR dog

fucking nails! got every move at least twice just difficult to link, i reckon it might go...

Hidden ??/2007 TR dog
Hidden 12/Aug/95 TR RP
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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 19
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set