155m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Numerous variations exist (hence the two different first ascent dates). The rock is polished in places. The route describes uses the original start.
Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower. Drop right into the gully then follow a large ledge right under Torre Stabeler for 10m to a thread.
1) II, 30m. Climb direct for 15m then follow a short ledge right to a corner; climb this to another ledge with detached boulders. Climb over these then continue direct to the stance on a ledge.
2) IV-, 25m. Climb a slab direct then move right (numerous threads) and climb a short chimney to a stance below a slanting corner (all alternative starts enter here).
3) IV, 30m. Climb the corner, which slants right then continues direct, then follow the continuation chimney, exiting right below a yellow niche and continuing in a corner direct for a few metres to reach a ledge.
4) IV+, 25m. Move left (ignoring the smaller corner above the belay) to the classic corner, well-protected with pegs and wedged nuts. Move right at the top to a stance below an overhang.
5) IV-, 20m. Traverse below the overhang for 6m then climb an easier crack direct to a ledge. Alternatively, take the steep crack above direct (harder at V).
6) IV, 30m. Move left, descending for a couple of metres to reach the base of the final corner. Climb this then follow the easier chimney to a notch.
7) IV-, 10m. Climb left from the saddle to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
South Face, Stabeler Tower.

Rudolf Fehrmann, Oliver Perry-Smith Aug/1908

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

LDudill 29/Aug/17 Lead

did after first tower. Cool route, less in situ gear compared to left tower. Climbing about HS and enjoyable.

Hidden 16/Aug/17 AltLd
emma1987 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Don't try to ab down the right side. Soloed last pitch

with lukey13
lukey13 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Emma :)
Guy Lowndes 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Mark Deketelaere
Hidden 04/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 14/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 14/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
CraigOsborne 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Win-yei 23/Aug/16 AltLd
with Rob
Rob Morgan 23/Aug/16 AltLd

I'm bad at chimneys, found them tricky and sustained, but Win loved them! Led P2, 4 & 6.

with Win-yei
Hidden 16/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Trent T 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
gringo1804 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

With Henry Gent. The VI+ corner looked harder than it actually was. Abseiled down between Stabeler and Delago Towers. Ropes got stuck and spent 2 hours on first ledge getting them down with assistance from Hugh Gilbert. Ran to make the bus.

Alessandro Tentori 14/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
Alessandro Tentori 11/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Abseiled from the second stance due to incoming storm. The Vinatzer start is a hard overhanging yellow crack.

with Luca Gasparini
Different Steve 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Mike Turner 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
brianrunner 23/Jul/13 AltLd

We pitched up to the start of the chimney line from the gap with the delago tower. The IV+ 2nd chimney pitch looked dank but had some great bridging and holds. Got buzzed by a tourist helicopter on the summit!

with martina
John Nuttall 06/Jul/13 Lead
with Sharon
guy757 16/Sep/11 -
Hotcake ?/Sep/11 2nd

Good Route. Seconded Pete (BMG). Would have been an OK lead apart from a couple of sections (Chimney and difficult crag).

with Snowy
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
Em66 ?/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
ChrisBrooke 10/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
zach.stone 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 07/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
ripper 27/Jun/10 2nd

climbed an easier line to the right, in the pitch dark, with head torches, seconding star man Pietro Rago from the Rifugio Alberto, to rescue Pierce and Dave who'd got their ropes stuck at the top!

Tarquin ?/Jun/09 Lead
halhorner 12/Aug/07 AltLd
with Trevor Witts
jev 27/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Jonas
dan gibson ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with eddie church
Tombauer ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 22/Aug/95 Lead
Maarten2 ?/Jul/94 AltLd

IN th crux it helps if you're tall - or use combined tactics!

with Kitti
rogerskews 06/Aug/92 -

Almost the venue for the opening of the film "Cliffhanger" Agree with the grade

with Phil
Andy Say 26/Jul/89 Lead O/S
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High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set