155m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Numerous variations exist (hence the two different first ascent dates). The rock is polished in places. The route describes uses the original start.
Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower. Drop right into the gully then follow a large ledge right under Torre Stabeler for 10m to a thread.
1) II, 30m. Climb direct for 15m then follow a short ledge right to a corner; climb this to another ledge with detached boulders. Climb over these then continue direct to the stance on a ledge.
2) IV-, 25m. Climb a slab direct then move right (numerous threads) and climb a short chimney to a stance below a slanting corner (all alternative starts enter here).
3) IV, 30m. Climb the corner, which slants right then continues direct, then follow the continuation chimney, exiting right below a yellow niche and continuing in a corner direct for a few metres to reach a ledge.
4) IV+, 25m. Move left (ignoring the smaller corner above the belay) to the classic corner, well-protected with pegs and wedged nuts. Move right at the top to a stance below an overhang.
5) IV-, 20m. Traverse below the overhang for 6m then climb an easier crack direct to a ledge. Alternatively, take the steep crack above direct (harder at V).
6) IV, 30m. Move left, descending for a couple of metres to reach the base of the final corner. Climb this then follow the easier chimney to a notch.
7) IV-, 10m. Climb left from the saddle to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
South Face, Stabeler Tower.

Rudolf Fehrmann, Oliver Perry-Smith Aug/1908

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 2017 Lead
Hidden 16 Aug, 2017 AltLd
emma1987 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Don't try to ab down the right side. Soloed last pitch
with lukey13
Don't try to ab down the right side. Soloed last pitch
with lukey13
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Guy Lowndes 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Mark Deketelaere
with Mark Deketelaere
Hidden 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 14 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Dan0Me
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 14 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
CraigOsborne 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Win-yei 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Rob Morgan 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd I'm bad at chimneys, found them tricky and sustained, but Win loved them! Led P2, 4 & 6.
with Win-yei
I'm bad at chimneys, found them tricky and sustained, but Win loved them! Led P2, 4 & 6.
with Win-yei
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Trent T 9 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
gringo1804 9 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S With Henry Gent. The VI+ corner looked harder than it actually was. Abseiled down between Stabeler and Delago Towers. Ropes got stuck and spent 2 hours on first ledge getting them down with assistance from Hugh Gilbert. Ran to make the bus.
With Henry Gent. The VI+ corner looked harder than it actually was. Abseiled down between Stabeler and Delago Towers. Ropes got stuck and spent 2 hours on first ledge getting them down with assistance from Hugh Gilbert. Ran to make the bus.
Alessandro Tentori 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
with Luca Gasparini
Alessandro Tentori 11 Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf Abseiled from the second stance due to incoming storm. The Vinatzer start is a hard overhanging yellow crack.
with Luca Gasparini
Abseiled from the second stance due to incoming storm. The Vinatzer start is a hard overhanging yellow crack.
with Luca Gasparini
Different Steve 8 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Mike Turner 8 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
brianrunner 23 Jul, 2013 AltLd We pitched up to the start of the chimney line from the gap with the delago tower. The IV+ 2nd chimney pitch looked dank but had some great bridging and holds. Got buzzed by a tourist helicopter on the summit!
with martina
We pitched up to the start of the chimney line from the gap with the delago tower. The IV+ 2nd chimney pitch looked dank but had some great bridging and holds. Got buzzed by a tourist helicopter on the summit!
with martina
John Nuttall 6 Jul, 2013 Lead
with Sharon
with Sharon
Hidden 16 Sep, 2011 -
Hotcake ?Sep, 2011 2nd Good Route. Seconded Pete (BMG). Would have been an OK lead apart from a couple of sections (Chimney and difficult crag).
Good Route. Seconded Pete (BMG). Would have been an OK lead apart from a couple of sections (Chimney and difficult crag).
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 Lead
Em66 ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
with Freg1
with Freg1
ChrisBrooke 10 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with John Inkpen
with John Inkpen
zach.stone 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
ripper 27 Jun, 2010 2nd climbed an easier line to the right, in the pitch dark, with head torches, seconding star man Pietro Rago from the Rifugio Alberto, to rescue Pierce and Dave who'd got their ropes stuck at the top!
climbed an easier line to the right, in the pitch dark, with head torches, seconding star man Pietro Rago from the Rifugio Alberto, to rescue Pierce and Dave who'd got their ropes stuck at the top!
Tarquin ?Jun, 2009 Lead
halhorner 12 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with Trevor Witts
with Trevor Witts
jev 27 May, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jonas
with Jonas
dan gibson ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with eddie church
with eddie church
Tombauer ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2004 AltLd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 30 Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 22 Aug, 1995 Lead
Maarten2 ?Jul, 1994 AltLd IN th crux it helps if you're tall - or use combined tactics!
with Kitti
IN th crux it helps if you're tall - or use combined tactics!
with Kitti
rogerskews 6 Aug, 1992 - Almost the venue for the opening of the film "Cliffhanger" Agree with the grade
with skewsy
Almost the venue for the opening of the film "Cliffhanger" Agree with the grade
with skewsy
Andy Say 26 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set