404m, 10 pitches.
A striking line. Engaging cracks and corners on the lower walls and exposed and involved climbing on the upper headwall looking out over the west face and beyond.
1) 5b, 32m. Climb the left of the two corners. Belay at the to the top of the obvious flake.
2) 6a, 45m. Step right into the groove. Climb the groove with difficulty making use of the left arête to a good cam then make a hard step right and ascend the black groove.
Belay in the corner above.
3) 5b, 45m. Trend left and upwards from the belay towards an obvious crack on the face. From its top enter a blocky recess and belay.
4) 5b, 45m. Climb the steep wide crack right of the square cut corner above. Once on the grassy ledges immediately take a wandering line leftwards up the slabs making use of left arête. Belay at the base of the large pillar
5) 5b, 52m. Climb the crack on the left of the pillar to a small ledge around the arête. Climb directly in the groove until a step right is possible to regain the main pillar. Climb this to its top and belay.
6) 5c, 45m. Climb the large flake above the belay and ascent the thin crack. Continue in the crack up the groove line until a belay can be made on a foot ledge.
(note - a marginal belay can be made at 55m in order to link the following two pitches as done for the first ascent.)
7) 5c, 25m. Continue up the main groove until the crack runs out then make thin moves with spaced protection left to an eventual crack whilst aiming for the obvious overhanging corner above and left.
8) 6b, 35m. Climb the corner above with difficulty (crux). Once gained climb the hanging groove leftwards until a good foot ledge. From here climb right to an obvious hold and above to a good block. Step back left via a hard move to the groove line and belay in cracks.
9) 5b/c, 35m. Continue up the right of the two cracked grooves above. Belay on the good ledge as for pitch 4 of “Uliaq”
10) 5b, 50m. Continue up the ramp in its entirety then ascend direct up wide mossy crack past jammed blocks to the summit. Belay on a grassy ledge and admire your position.
1) 5b, 32m. Climb the left of the two corners. Belay at the to the top of the obvious flake.
2) 6a, 45m. Step right into the groove. Climb the groove with difficulty making use of the left arête to a good cam then make a hard step right and ascend the black groove.
Belay in the corner above.
3) 5b, 45m. Trend left and upwards from the belay towards an obvious crack on the face. From its top enter a blocky recess and belay.
4) 5b, 45m. Climb the steep wide crack right of the square cut corner above. Once on the grassy ledges immediately take a wandering line leftwards up the slabs making use of left arête. Belay at the base of the large pillar
5) 5b, 52m. Climb the crack on the left of the pillar to a small ledge around the arête. Climb directly in the groove until a step right is possible to regain the main pillar. Climb this to its top and belay.
6) 5c, 45m. Climb the large flake above the belay and ascent the thin crack. Continue in the crack up the groove line until a belay can be made on a foot ledge.
(note - a marginal belay can be made at 55m in order to link the following two pitches as done for the first ascent.)
7) 5c, 25m. Continue up the main groove until the crack runs out then make thin moves with spaced protection left to an eventual crack whilst aiming for the obvious overhanging corner above and left.
8) 6b, 35m. Climb the corner above with difficulty (crux). Once gained climb the hanging groove leftwards until a good foot ledge. From here climb right to an obvious hold and above to a good block. Step back left via a hard move to the groove line and belay in cracks.
9) 5b/c, 35m. Continue up the right of the two cracked grooves above. Belay on the good ledge as for pitch 4 of “Uliaq”
10) 5b, 50m. Continue up the ramp in its entirety then ascend direct up wide mossy crack past jammed blocks to the summit. Belay on a grassy ledge and admire your position.
Ben Kent, Chris Moore, Indie Fallowfield 20/Jul/2024.
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Route of Interest
Twist of Fate
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Innaarsuit)