417m, 12 pitches.
A great route on superb rock taking in one of the longest lines of the face. The climbing is sustained and encompasses a mixture of slab, crack, groove and face climbing.
Sun usually can be expected on the route in July from around midday to 11:30pm.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up a recent rock scarred corner below the obvious chimney. Climb this and the chimney above with increasing difficulty to its top and belay.
2) 6a, 35m. Step left from the belay and make a hard and committing pull up and into the groove above (crux). Easier climbing follows to the belay.
3) 5b, 35m. Continue in the groove on good holds yet sometimes suspect rock until a belay can be made in twin cracks below where the wall begins to steepen
4) 6a, 35m. Climb the widening steep crack with difficulty till its top. Trend leftwards on good holds until a belay can be made in a shallow hanging corner with good foot ledges 3m below.
5) 5b, 33m. Climb the cracks trending leftwards until you are directly below ‘the shield’. Climb directly above on steep holds until the groove ascends on the left (small cam)
From here trend rightwards on good edges in an exposed rising traverse. Belay in a small recess.
6) 6a/b, 24m. Climb left and up off the belay and make hard bold moves towards the small shallow hanging corner above. Climb this till its top (crux) then traverse left on good holds to the large ledge and belay.
note - A poor skyhook and a red dragonfly protects the entirety of the hard climbing on this pitch. 2 removable 12mm bolts were placed and removed on the first ascent at 3 and 5 metres in addition to these. Without these placed a fall from the crux would be a serious prospect.
7) 6a, 52m. Climb directly up from the large ledge then up trending leftwards on the underhung flaked crack. From here climb up and make your way rightwards making thin moves until the larger crack and groove system can be gained. Climb this to a good belay ledge level with a large roof on the the wall below on the left.
8) 5c, 31m. Make a small down-climb left to the large roof. Climb the thin crack in the roof onto the blocks then make a stiff pull (crux) to gain the grooveline. Climb this for 20m until the large grassy ledge and belay.
9) 5b, 50m. Climb the crack till a small foot-ledge at a height of 50m. (Large cams useful but not essential)
10) 6a, 32m. Climb the narrow crack in the steep groove above. At its top arrange gear then make a hard step left to gain the slab and large corner.
11) 5b, 45m. Traverse left with a small down climb to gain the large corner. Climb this for 15 meters then break right towards the huge blocks above. Climb the slabs to the leftmost corner of the large block then climb the crack to gain it. Climb rightwards on the ledges for another 8 meters and belay in a good horizontal break.
12) 15m. Climb the easy slab (or corner to its right if wet) to the summit
Sun usually can be expected on the route in July from around midday to 11:30pm.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up a recent rock scarred corner below the obvious chimney. Climb this and the chimney above with increasing difficulty to its top and belay.
2) 6a, 35m. Step left from the belay and make a hard and committing pull up and into the groove above (crux). Easier climbing follows to the belay.
3) 5b, 35m. Continue in the groove on good holds yet sometimes suspect rock until a belay can be made in twin cracks below where the wall begins to steepen
4) 6a, 35m. Climb the widening steep crack with difficulty till its top. Trend leftwards on good holds until a belay can be made in a shallow hanging corner with good foot ledges 3m below.
5) 5b, 33m. Climb the cracks trending leftwards until you are directly below ‘the shield’. Climb directly above on steep holds until the groove ascends on the left (small cam)
From here trend rightwards on good edges in an exposed rising traverse. Belay in a small recess.
6) 6a/b, 24m. Climb left and up off the belay and make hard bold moves towards the small shallow hanging corner above. Climb this till its top (crux) then traverse left on good holds to the large ledge and belay.
note - A poor skyhook and a red dragonfly protects the entirety of the hard climbing on this pitch. 2 removable 12mm bolts were placed and removed on the first ascent at 3 and 5 metres in addition to these. Without these placed a fall from the crux would be a serious prospect.
7) 6a, 52m. Climb directly up from the large ledge then up trending leftwards on the underhung flaked crack. From here climb up and make your way rightwards making thin moves until the larger crack and groove system can be gained. Climb this to a good belay ledge level with a large roof on the the wall below on the left.
8) 5c, 31m. Make a small down-climb left to the large roof. Climb the thin crack in the roof onto the blocks then make a stiff pull (crux) to gain the grooveline. Climb this for 20m until the large grassy ledge and belay.
9) 5b, 50m. Climb the crack till a small foot-ledge at a height of 50m. (Large cams useful but not essential)
10) 6a, 32m. Climb the narrow crack in the steep groove above. At its top arrange gear then make a hard step left to gain the slab and large corner.
11) 5b, 45m. Traverse left with a small down climb to gain the large corner. Climb this for 15 meters then break right towards the huge blocks above. Climb the slabs to the leftmost corner of the large block then climb the crack to gain it. Climb rightwards on the ledges for another 8 meters and belay in a good horizontal break.
12) 15m. Climb the easy slab (or corner to its right if wet) to the summit
Ben Kent, Chris Moore, Indie Fallowfield 12/Jul/2024.
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Route of Interest
Gas Mark 5
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Innaarsuit)