240m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This is the parallel crack system between Bare blåbær and the 'Black Arch'. It features some excellent hand-jamming, but there is also a difficult thin crack, plus a long unprotected off-width pitch. Carry tiny wires and a good selection of cams. If the first pitch is blocked, it might be worth starting up Triumfbuen, though this does miss out some of the hard climbing.
1) N4, 26m. Climb the first short pitch of Bare blåbær.
2) N6, 44m. Jam up the finger-crack at the start of Bare blåbær pitch 2, then traverse right across the face into a thin crack, or go direct - bold. Climb this then make a hard traverse into the perfect crack on the right. Take a semi-hanging belay here.
3) N6, 50m. Continue up the superb crack system which starts as a hand-crack then slowly becomes thinner until it narrows to a thin seam just above the Black Arch. Make off-balance jamming moves up the thin crack to the bolted belay at the top of pitch 4 of Bare blåbær, or in the cracks just below this.
4) N4+, 45m. A long and unprotected off-width leads up the upper side of the huge detached flake above. Belay at the top of the flake. Abseil from the bolts over to the left or:
5) and 6) Finish up Bare blåbær. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dbottomley 9 Jul AltLd dnf
with tom.wp6
with tom.wp6
tom.wp6 9 Jul AltLd dnf Did the n6 traverse. Spice. Bailed on 2nd n6 due to Wills craving for soup and smashing his ankle
Did the n6 traverse. Spice. Bailed on 2nd n6 due to Wills craving for soup and smashing his ankle
JagoNeath 28 Jun AltLd Lead pitches 1 & 3.
Lead pitches 1 & 3.
crossleysm 13 Jun AltLd dnf P2 bold slabby climbing. P3 bold and steep looked E3 5C. Backed off and finished up Blare Baber.
with Dale Colver
P2 bold slabby climbing. P3 bold and steep looked E3 5C. Backed off and finished up Blare Baber.
with Dale Colver
Jepaulsen 7 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 21 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andy Nisbet 10 Aug, 2014 TR I failed actually as I wasn't prepared to make moves from which you would hit the ground from a long way up. There didn't seem much point in starting up Bare Blabaer pitch 2 as it was easy enough being independent and you would still have to do the unprotected moves.
with Dave McGimpsey
I failed actually as I wasn't prepared to make moves from which you would hit the ground from a long way up. There didn't seem much point in starting up Bare Blabaer pitch 2 as it was easy enough being independent and you would still have to do the unprotected moves.
with Dave McGimpsey
Tim W 20 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S lead pitch 2
lead pitch 2
Hidden 20 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
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Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set