Rockfax Description
(Eagle Ridge) An interesting climb with an exciting finish plus the bonus of a nice summit. Protection is generally good, but there is some crumbly rock, especially on the first pitch.
1) N5, 38m. Begin under the steep section of the ridge, in a sandy gully. Head easily rightwards into a bay then pull back left onto steeper rock. More direct approaches are steeper and harder. Jam the cracks above, then step out onto the steep left-hand wall and move up right to a small stance right of the arete.
2) N5+, 32m. Step right into an easy crack and climb to its top. Traverse left and follow another vertical crack to an exposed ledge on the left, under a leaning wall, which has huge holds. Sprint up this to an excellent belay ledge. The loose groove to the right is an oft-climbed (poor) variation that isn't any easier.
3) N3+, 30m. Walk right on the ledge, then move up and back left (one awkward move up a corner) to reach the flat summit of Glåmtinden complete with summit log. This pitch can also be done direct at about N5-. © Rockfax
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Grade: n5+ ***
(Øvredalen)