Rockfax Description
A bold route. To earn the grade, the route needs to be climbed ground up, although many people lasso the metal spike from Seamstress reducing it to E4. Climb up to the spike and continue direct up a faint groove past a bolt. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, a State of Slate, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Bold Slate routes.

JCAshman 08/Sep/17 Lead RP

Very nice route. Tried it on top rope first though as it's a long way to the spike,. It is all there!

Longsufferingropeholder 25/Aug/17 TR β

After leading Stack of Nudebooks, just to check whether I could reach the bolt before doing the hard move. I reckon not. I'd want to pre-place a quickdraw for the lead, and I'll never understand slate ethics enough to know if that's ok, so I didn't.

with C May
Phil Bullock 25/Aug/17 TR dog

Felt well hard! Definitely wouldn't wanna be soloing up to the spike...Might come back to this one day if I ever get fit and stronger...

with Aaron
dranoel 08/Aug/17 TR dog
with Jez Brown
Flavio 22/Jul/17 Lead O/S
scarmichael 13/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Too roped prior to a lead, lead with spike clipped. Stiff but cool moves around the bolt!

Glyn Davidson 10/Jul/17 Lead RP

Soloed to the bar (with matts) and made much use of the bar once I'd got to it. Extended QD already in the bolt.

with Alun Owen, Dan
felixwilkins 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Dan77 04/Jul/17 TR O/S
Glyn Davidson 04/Jul/17 TR O/S

Flashed on a top rope so will have to go for a lead. Felt solid on it.

with Dan
GPN 02/Jul/17 Lead β

Pre-clipped spike.

with Annette
Tom McCabe 14/Jun/17 TR O/S

Hard moves pretty high before you'd get the spike

with Rowan Chesmer
Hidden 06/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Phil4000 01/Jun/17 TR rpt

Top roped clean, getting the mojo back after falling on it previously.

with Pablo
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead rpt
Cole Robertson 28/May/17 Lead G/U

With the pipe lassoed. Cool moves by the bolt.

Lizlet13 28/May/17 TR dog
with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn 28/May/17 Lead O/S

With the pipe pre-clipped

with Liz Y
Hidden 25/Apr/17 TR
Rachel Hoyland 22/Apr/17 2nd dog
adi bryant 22/Apr/17 Lead G/U
CraigOsborne 27/Mar/17 TR O/S
jezb1 08/Mar/17 Lead

With the spike lassoed. Need to do it properly now. Thought it was pretty steady climbing, but obviously bold.

Phil4000 11/Feb/17 Lead dnf

Fell from not a good place.

with Pablo
tom jefferies 24/Nov/16 TR β
with Kim Tirreyll-Marsh
Dan Hostford 05/Nov/16 Lead β

Top roped it a couple of times to help with confidence and clean the hail of the holds, then went for the lead. Quite scary having such a long run out before reaching the spike but the moves were all fun.

with Binit Shah, LSMC, Johanna Jansson
BRoe 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Surprisingly nice climbing, didn't lasso the pipe.

with Heather O
Heather Osborne 16/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with Ben Roe
Hidden 03/Oct/16 Lead dnf
idlefoddie 04/Sep/16 TR dog

It started to rain on me when about 5 moves in. Made it a bit interesting to say the least.. Thankfully on toprop at the time not lead.

JamesWilliams 04/Sep/16 TR rpt

Still got it on the slate it appears

adamre12 04/Sep/16 Lead RP

After a couple of goes on the top rope thought I'd give it a go. And it went! Lassoed the spike to be sensible, however.

DaveThexton 27/Jul/16 Lead RP
mattfarr 11/Jun/16 Lead RP

with spike clipped.

with Dave C
Davecapewell 11/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Top roped twice then sent on first red point. Placed the sling on lead.

Hidden 05/Jun/16 TR dog
hlegge 26/May/16 TR O/S
Hidden 21/May/16 2nd O/S
andyinglis 21/May/16 Lead β

Saw holds on ab'ing down after doing seams the same, still a few worrying moves to the spike!

with mal and jen
jonleighton 16/May/16 Lead O/S

Super bold lead. Didn't really consider lassooing the pipe from the ground, it didn't occur to me that doing so would be possible. The soloing moves up to the spike were a lot harder than the guide seemed to make out, I don't think I'd have done it if I'd realised, but I got away with it thankfully. The actual climbing is good, but I was more focused on the intense experience of trying not to break my legs.

with Emma
Rachel S 14/May/16 2nd

Dogged obvs.

with Nik
Elliot King LC&CC 14/May/16 TR O/S

Hard moves on top rope wouldn't Fancy the lead fall!

with Tony Flint
Hamish2322 ?/May/16 Lead RP
jacob shieldhouse hadley 23/Apr/16 Lead rpt


with cai, justin, TomEvans
Butel 12/Apr/16 2nd O/S
anguskille 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S

thought it was a bit pokey actually, great route

Gabe Oliver 10/Apr/16 TR O/S

That would be a terrifying lead...

Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 2nd
cameronr11 11/Mar/16 TR rpt
with Tom Lloyd, Crimps, Bennett
Hidden ??/2016 -
James Beaumont 28/Oct/15 Lead RP


with Max
ianstevens 28/Oct/15 Lead G/U

After sneaking off on my previous jaunt up the slab (aka, doing Stack of Nudebooks...), felt obliged to do the proper finish - hence ground-up.

James-m-h 28/Oct/15 2nd
James Beaumont 22/Oct/15 TR

Got this bad boy clean twice, felt easy today, next trip means the lead

with Brogan
Hidden 17/Oct/15 TR RP
Jake Young 10/Oct/15 Lead β

With the iron bar lasood from the ground, pretty happy with this flash. messed myself up alittle after clipping the bolt which resulted in matching my foot between both my hands. First day ever on the slate, i think i should go more often :)

with Fran
Nick1812P 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

did it with the spike lassoed which made it E3ish

with Matt
Tom Seccombe 04/Sep/15 Lead RP
with max goodman
Hidden 30/Aug/15 TR RP
JRJones 27/Aug/15 Lead dog

ground up, but with terrible style, came off just below the top bolt

jsmcfarland 15/Aug/15 TR O/S

I had been looking at this and felt confident to go for the lead, but belayed my mate up a VS first. During this a random guy came along, gave it a go and decked from about 4 metres up, totally f*cking up my headgame. Decided to toprope it after that, was super gutted as I did it clean first go without too much difficulty :/

jsmcfarland 15/Aug/15 Lead RP

Led the route clean after onsighting it on the toprope after watching a guy deck before the spike. Wish I had gone for the lead straight away. Sigh. Fantastic route with very technical moves, the 6a crux is brilliant!

AndyPratt88 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Jim
JimHolmes69 12/Aug/15 Lead β
with AndyPratt88, Pete Brindle
Davecapewell 08/Aug/15 TR O/S

Awesome fingery climbing. Definitely need a pad for the lead.

with Little joe, Fattmarr
JamesWilliams 18/Jul/15 Lead RP

MEGA! seconded it last year and had a quick gri gri session last month and it felt desperate! seconded up seams the same and throwing the rope down it got hooked on the spike by accident so though i'd give it a good really didn't expect to be topping out clean! hardest lead to date

with Bren
jamesgodwin64 04/Jul/15 TR RP
with John Cooper
JamesWilliams 24/Jun/15 TR dog

had a go on the grigri needs a little more work still

BLodge 13/Jun/15 2nd
Tom.Priestley 16/May/15 2nd O/S

Hard to the Spike, although crux is at top.

Scott Quinn 16/May/15 Lead G/U

onsight without a pad to the spike & above the bolt, slipped off on an easy move...stupid, couldn't believe it I deserved to finish it clean after the emotional turmoil of the run out to the spike...which I found the hardest bit! probably 5c and not as easy as you would imagine, the 6a crux is easy isn't too bad if you have a long reach

bede.west 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S

woop! first of the grade no lassoing! not actual sure which grade though...

with German loui, Henry Francis
Hidden 15/Mar/15 TR dog
breed 08/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Good to get this done after backing off a year or so ago. Not e5 even if you do it ground up.

Hidden ??/2015 TR
joedean ??/2015 -
Ally Smith 29/Nov/14 Lead dnf

Ouch; Desmond backing off from before the spike. Bruised bum and heel.

Dan Geh 25/Oct/14 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Oct/14 TR O/S
AMJ098 25/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh
jacob shieldhouse hadley 07/Sep/14 Lead β

good movement BETA = go slightly left at the start good side pull then move to the ledge under the spike. there is a good jug in the overlap. my video =

with jasper cluff
Mattlamb90 07/Sep/14 Lead RP

Had a ground fall from below spike with no pad. Watched jacob do it then got it clean next time

with Ryan
wi11 17/Aug/14 Lead β

Threw the rope over the spike...didn't fancy a 'heady' climb. Cool climb other than that. Escape into Seamstress was very inviting

with @ndy
Ed morris 23/Jun/14 Lead β

Felt a little too sketchy up to the pipe.

with stefan
Ewan Russell 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Cameron Ray
cameronr11 01/Jun/14 TR dog

Couple of falls, made all the moves which surprised me. Trusting high feet in all kinds of odd ways as I have tiny arms

with Ewan
dohart 12/May/14 TR dog
with hiroun
Hak 12/May/14 TR dnf

Got to the pipe.

Hidden ?/May/14 -
barni 08/Apr/14 TR rpt
JamesWilliams 04/Mar/14 2nd dog

clean apart from trying to go up wrong footed just below the spike. realise and climbed the rest clean.

BenRyle 04/Mar/14 Lead RP

Fell off the first time, thankfully onto a pad still had a sore heel for the rest of the day. Upper half is v. nice

with Vas, Dan
Dan724 04/Mar/14 Lead RP

Came within a meter of the top on the onsight attempt:( Climbed the run-out to the spike without difficulty only to have my foot randomly slip off 1 move before the finishing holds. Went annoyingly easily on 2nd attempt.

Nick Biven ??/2014 -
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
cripper ??/2014 TR dog
barni 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Oates, luke
Luke Brooks 25/Nov/13 Lead

Pre-clipped the spike this time.

with Will, Barni
HAJ Francis 11/Oct/13 Lead RP

Came scarily close to coming off before the spike, definite squeaky bum time.

Hidden 11/Oct/13 Lead RP
Dr Toph 18/Sep/13 Lead RP

One fall to the deck, before finding a better way through the crux 2nd go ground up. Thin!

Andrew Sloan 06/Sep/13 TR dog
Dibdawg 20/Aug/13 TR dog

One fall low down.

Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead β
a13x 11/Aug/13 TR RP
with Matt Harle, Jordan Phethean, Jessie Harris
Matt Smith 07/Aug/13 TR O/S

So pleased to get this clean, but there is no way I have the gonads for the lead.

tim newton 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
cameronmcloughlin 05/Aug/13 TR rpt

Not looking forward to leading this

Kirill 28/Jul/13 TR dog
dan-8990 14/Jul/13 Lead RP
with RW
elCapitano 29/Jun/13 Lead dog

1 fall after the bolt. A waste of effort as I cranked like a ninja to get there then blew it going too high before cutting left.

with Coatesy
georgedunton 16/Jun/13 Lead RP
wolf.leeb 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with jo
christoph owen 23/Apr/13 TR

on shunt

with top rope solo
nimajneb 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Albachoss 03/Mar/13 2nd β

Magnificent! A super effort from Ben for onsighting this. Lower crux was okay, steady climbing up to the bolt. Ben made this bit look desperate but i found better beta. The best slab climb i have had the joy of climbing.

with Ben
Lenny 17/Feb/13 TR dog
with Phil .N
dwillis ??/2013 -
Hidden 17/Nov/12 TR
Hidden 11/Nov/12 2nd dog
wolf.leeb 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

Grrr.. Stupid foot slip blew the onsight..

with Alexis
Somerset swede basher 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Rich Siddle
madguernseyboy 20/Oct/12 TR dnf
jordan taylor 26/Aug/12 2nd β
arthurraffle98 07/Aug/12 TR
with Plas y Brenin
Hidden 31/Jul/12 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with loundsy
rustaldo 20/May/12 Lead RP

quite hard. decked out twice on my way up to the metal spike, good thing im a wuss and brought a pad. still pretty sketchy once you get the sling on and move up to the bolt.

with Alex
Bruce Houston ?/Apr/12 Lead RP
Milne 24/Mar/12 TR dog

desperate. felt hard for 6a. no chalk on yhe route, felt ok when found the holds and polished smears!

with sarah.
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR dog
jacobjlloyd 18/Mar/12 Lead RP

Foot slipped right at the top! So annoyed to blow the os. Lowered down, pulled the rope and got straight back on it. Feet were painful but its not that hard - really no excuse for falling off it. Lovely route, such character

with Richard Bingham
thetradlad 17/Mar/12 Lead dog

'Lassoed' the spike. Near as damn it clean, just a bit of faffing around with gear at the spike

Coops_13 17/Mar/12 TR dog

Clean through first crux then dogged second crux :(

Harry Thorpe 17/Mar/12 2nd dog

Came off just before the spike. Fantastic move stepping out left when level with the bolt!

NickHarms ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
jacobjacob 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
smallerrich 14/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with Greg
kdalzell 25/Sep/11 TR
with Fiona Graham
MarkRoe 31/Aug/11 TR RP

Really sustained enjoyable climbing, one to lead in the future if I can get the bold start totally sussed.

with Smithy
mksmith35 31/Aug/11 TR dog
markalmack 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

lassoed the spike from above

Hidden 26/Aug/11 TR dog
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd
willoates 09/Aug/11 Lead RP

Backed off last year, would have backed off today if i had had the option, was bricking it! once i had the gear i was bricking it about falling off and having to do the start again.

with Hayley Proctor, Iona
Hidden 25/Jul/11 TR dnf
jacobjlloyd 24/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Got to a hard move below the spike twice and chose to down-climb both times. Wasn't certain, and the consequences seemed high! Will come back for this with newer more technical shoes. Shouldn't bring the trad shoes for slate really. The onsight is still there for the taking...

with Ben Harper
feilx 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

getting to the spike is scary

with Andy L
surfboybert 23/Apr/11 TR β

now need to lead it!

Sam Marland 14/Apr/11 TR dog
centurion05 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice route,

HIGHTOWER 07/Apr/11 2nd dog
vertically_challenged ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
doddi 26/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 03/Mar/11 TR dog
barni 22/Feb/11 TR rpt
with Cal
Hidden 19/Feb/11 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone ?/Feb/11 Lead RP
PAJames ??/2011 -
vertically_challenged ??/2011 Lead dog
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 10/Oct/10 TR
Pippa 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Jon
nic42 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Jack
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/10 TR
benchwarmer 21/Sep/10 TR rpt
mbradberry2008 20/Sep/10 TR β
Ed morris 12/Sep/10 TR O/S

Good, wish I had led it now.

with james
christoph owen 25/Aug/10 TR

1 fall, foot popped off between spike and bolt. :( gutted. did the sequence again n flew up it

with Mat H
Hidden 06/Jul/10 TR RP
Byronius Maximus 30/May/10 2nd dog

Fantastic slab, thin climbing. Annoyingly fell off the crux move but got it straight away afterwards. Seriously good effort by Remus for the lead.

Hidden 30/May/10 Lead β
Duncan Campbell 02/May/10 Lead O/S

awesome! first E4 onsight! pretty scary but steady up to the spike then steady up to a good skyhook, scary move to clip the bolt (but im short) then the crux moving past it.

with laura, Mason
smallerrich 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
crag_monster ?/May/10 TR
Andrew Barker 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Pretty scary, especially as I'm not very flexible. Tricky moves to the spike, then once it's clipped you actually get to enjoy yourself a bit.

catblack 26/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
oliverthomp 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Luke Jones
TomPR ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
richiebongo 04/Jan/10 Lead RP
with Gwen Thomson
Tomprusk 08/Nov/09 2nd
with Heather
HeatherF 08/Nov/09 Lead RP

Whoop whoop-E4 tick :) Also did two routes in Australia today, but have no idea what they were called

with Tom Parker
Hidden 01/Nov/09 TR O/S
barni ?/Nov/09 2nd
with luke
Luke Brooks ?/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Barni
hervenuttall ?/Oct/09 Lead RP
with ross
Shauna 26/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Jules
JulesV 26/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
scorky345 17/Sep/09 Lead
HeatherF 10/Sep/09 TR rpt

Will go for the lead next time!

with Esther
HeatherF 22/Aug/09 TR
with Matt
esther ?/Aug/09 TR
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Mike Goldthorp 20/May/09 Lead rpt

Top-roped once a few months before. Bummer, would have liked the onsight

with Sam Jones
Hidden 24/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 10/Apr/09 2nd O/S
barni 10/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Alex Mason 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Sweet climbing through-out, great double mono mantle!

with Andy Laurence
farmus21 22/Jan/09 2nd
farmus21 22/Jan/09 TR
Renegade_Pony 09/Jan/09 2nd dog
with barni
barni 09/Jan/09 Lead rpt
hans solo ?/Jan/09 -
hans solo ?/Jan/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/09 Lead rpt
Noodles 02/Nov/08 TR dog

Top roped with bums. Should be able to lead this in the near future i hope.

Lloyders ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Hidden 27/Sep/08 TR dog
SGD 21/Sep/08 Lead RP

Great climb, Practiced it on a rope the previous day.

with Jenny Upright
Keith Jones 18/Sep/08 TR
with David
Hidden 30/Aug/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jul/08 TR rpt
alaan 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Aly
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/08 Lead

With help from the stick of courage as I had none...

Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Hidden 22/Aug/07 TR dog
Hidden 22/Aug/07 TR dog
C@rwyn 20/Aug/07 TR dog
with Heather
HeatherF 20/Aug/07 TR
with Tom
JHPritch ?/Aug/07 Lead
barni 17/Jul/07 Lead
mynyddresident ?/Jul/07 Lead RP

Just back from Chamonix, twice top roped weeks before.

Hidden 28/May/07 TR
Hidden 06/May/07 TR dog
Hidden 05/May/07 TR dog
Toby Dunn 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Bob
Will Hunt 04/Feb/07 TR O/S


with Jamie Light & Nick Bird
Jamie Light 04/Feb/07 TR O/S

Nice Climb, will be a bold lead when I get round to it :-)

Hidden 04/Feb/07 TR O/S
ritchierich 07/Nov/06 TR O/S
with Chris Brigstocke
IOAN D 21/Aug/06 Lead O/S

roped solo

with me my self and I
Ed Booth 11/Aug/06 Lead RP

had a quick go on tr and made my fastest ever headpoint.

with Remus Knowles
stuart100 27/Apr/06 TR O/S
with Gary Stoker
Dringo ??/2006 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/05 TR
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/05 Lead RP

Tad bold on the outset, but contains some great slate climbing.

Hidden 24/Jan/05 TR dnf
nicholas Barrowclough 23/Jul/04 Lead
paul m hadley ??/2003 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Dec/01 TR
Brown ??/2001 TR O/S

Climbed in the year after falling off poetry pink

with Alex
petekeron ??/2000 Lead RP
belay bunny turned bad ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Paul Boardman ??/1999 TR
with Mark Johnson
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Colin Edwards ?/Apr/95 TR rpt
Mark Kemball 29/Aug/94 Lead

Side runners!

whispering nic ?/Jul/93 Lead
with torquil
Rob Davies ?/Apr/93 TR
Hidden ??/1993 Lead dog
PaulHermes ??/1993 -
Jon Read ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
with Roger Peppe
goi.ashmore 06/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/90 TR O/S
Nick Rundall ??/1990 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
mark-abz 18/Aug/89 TR
with Andy W
steve taylor ?/Jul/89 Lead
with Jim Waddington
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/89 2nd
with Andy Roberts
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/89 2nd
with Bill Williamson
Hidden 13/May/89 AltLd
Hidden 28/Apr/88 TR
wynaptomos ?/Sep/87 Lead O/S
sadams 17/Aug/87 Lead
with Guy Townsend
Martin Bennett 10/Jul/87 -
with MD
Enty ??/1987 Lead
with A Gudgeon
Melok 08/Aug/86 -
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 49
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set