180m, 8 pitches.
6c+ RS2 (5c/A1 obb.)
One of the most historical routes in the Val Grande and one of the best achivement of the impressive team Motti-Grassi. Belays are equipped and bolts are present aside the old fixed gear, so the commitment is somewhat "preserved". A single series of friend (mid size) is still useful. The original route started on a grassy ramp on the left now cluttered by the vegetation. Hence, the slab direct start is now the custom. In the final part, above the "naso", the orginal route head to the obvious leaning crack, but a much easier variant on the slab on the left is also possible.
P1. Original start: up the boulders then trend right to a mossy corner (trad, III)
P2. From the right end of the belay ledge, climb the diehdral with a good crack at the bottom (powerful moves at the beginning). At the end of the diehdral, pass an awkward step to gain the belay on your right (V/V+).
P3. Climb the short slab towards left and pass the overhanging narrowing above to gain the ledge on your right again (V+/6a).
P4. Exposed traverse towards left, one of Motti's masterpieces (V).
P5. Outstanding pitch, directly up into the diehdral. At its end, climb the technical slab on the left (6b/A1).
P6. Short crack (6a).
P7. Continue on the slab and then rightwards following a crack, up to a belay, just below the final overhanging crack (V).
P8. Climb the left ascending crack up to the summit (6c+/A0).
Attack Variant.
P1. Warm-up compared to the crux pitch, yet technical slab, fully bolted (6a).
"Gogna" Variant.
P7. Continue on the slab, steepening at the end, directly heading to the summit (6a).
Descent: abseil on the route.
One of the most historical routes in the Val Grande and one of the best achivement of the impressive team Motti-Grassi. Belays are equipped and bolts are present aside the old fixed gear, so the commitment is somewhat "preserved". A single series of friend (mid size) is still useful. The original route started on a grassy ramp on the left now cluttered by the vegetation. Hence, the slab direct start is now the custom. In the final part, above the "naso", the orginal route head to the obvious leaning crack, but a much easier variant on the slab on the left is also possible.
P1. Original start: up the boulders then trend right to a mossy corner (trad, III)
P2. From the right end of the belay ledge, climb the diehdral with a good crack at the bottom (powerful moves at the beginning). At the end of the diehdral, pass an awkward step to gain the belay on your right (V/V+).
P3. Climb the short slab towards left and pass the overhanging narrowing above to gain the ledge on your right again (V+/6a).
P4. Exposed traverse towards left, one of Motti's masterpieces (V).
P5. Outstanding pitch, directly up into the diehdral. At its end, climb the technical slab on the left (6b/A1).
P6. Short crack (6a).
P7. Continue on the slab and then rightwards following a crack, up to a belay, just below the final overhanging crack (V).
P8. Climb the left ascending crack up to the summit (6c+/A0).
Attack Variant.
P1. Warm-up compared to the crux pitch, yet technical slab, fully bolted (6a).
"Gogna" Variant.
P7. Continue on the slab, steepening at the end, directly heading to the summit (6a).
Descent: abseil on the route.
Gian Carlo Grassi, Gian Piero Motti Jan/1969.
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Route of Interest
Gran Diedro di Sinistra
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Bec di Mea)