Rockfax Description
The thinner line of cracks on the right-hand side of the slab is the equal of its better known neighbour. Start 5m right of the start of Sacre Coeur at a thin crack.
Take the crack to a small overlap. Move up and follow thin technical cracks with difficulty to a better crack. Continue up this crack and finish up another to gain the summit of the rock. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

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UserDateNotes
Trickyw 29 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Good quality, absorbing, sustained slab climbing that will burn your feet to stumps if you are unprepared for it. No path at the grade. Depending on the barnacle coverage, slipping off the first 20feet without motorcycle leathers could give your cosmetic surgeon plenty to go at. Harder by at least 1 grade than neighbouring Sacre Coeur (so high in the grade as they say - which usually means it's really the next grade up!). IMO crux is lowdown at overlap with sustained 5c climbing above, much of it protected with microwires (essential) and other marginal bits and pieces (micro cams useful) that give a spaced and only moderate sense of security.
 
Show beta
βeta: Good quality, absorbing, sustained slab climbing that will burn your feet to stumps if you are unprepared for it. No path at the grade. Depending on the barnacle coverage, slipping off the first 20feet without motorcycle leathers could give your cosmetic surgeon plenty to go at. Harder by at least 1 grade than neighbouring Sacre Coeur (so high in the grade as they say - which usually means it's really the next grade up!). IMO crux is lowdown at overlap with sustained 5c climbing above, much of it protected with microwires (essential) and other marginal bits and pieces (micro cams useful) that give a spaced and only moderate sense of security.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dominic Acland 17 Jul Lead Had a rest, intense on the toes!
with Simon woosters
Had a rest, intense on the toes!
with Simon woosters
LDJ 17 Jul 2nd
with ollie1
with ollie1
ollie1 17 Jul Lead Loved this climb. Had to rest about half way up. Do it clean next time.
with LDJ
Loved this climb. Had to rest about half way up. Do it clean next time.
with LDJ
Joepenfold 11 Jul 2nd dog
Owen Davies 3 Jul Lead O/S The superior route on this slab, felt a tad bold to start due to unhelpfully positioned limpets inside the crack and greasy footholds. Great 6a/5c moves above the bulge with a tricky step rightwards at the top. Stunning. Solid 6a for me.
with Mum, Dad
The superior route on this slab, felt a tad bold to start due to unhelpfully positioned limpets inside the crack and greasy footholds. Great 6a/5c moves above the bulge with a tricky step rightwards at the top. Stunning. Solid 6a for me.
with Mum, Dad
bigrob 25 Jun TR
simonhammond1966 25 Jun TR
with Rob Byrom
with Rob Byrom
th£wrecker 25 Aug, 2018 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
Tom Seccombe 20 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Oche
with Oche
aiyer 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Lovely moves... Bit soft touch for 6a?
Lovely moves... Bit soft touch for 6a?
JoeCoxson 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Happy to get up this, it was getting a bit scrappy at the top! Quite a long section with only micros added to the feel, but Aby found some better gear though. Thin.
with aiyer
Happy to get up this, it was getting a bit scrappy at the top! Quite a long section with only micros added to the feel, but Aby found some better gear though. Thin.
with aiyer
ian d f 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Tom Last 23 Jun, 2018 2nd Climbed it clean following Max. Unpleasant on the feet. Never three stars, one star is fair. Nowhere near the equal of its neighbour.
with Max Dutson
Climbed it clean following Max. Unpleasant on the feet. Never three stars, one star is fair. Nowhere near the equal of its neighbour.
with Max Dutson
alice fuller ?Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Brilliant onsight by Andy. 2nd by moon and sunsetlight
with andy banister
Brilliant onsight by Andy. 2nd by moon and sunsetlight
with andy banister
hornbywill 28 May, 2018 Lead RP Seconded Rich that morning
Seconded Rich that morning
Hidden 28 May, 2018 Lead dog
janegallwey 14 May, 2018 TR
Hidden 14 May, 2018 TR
spidermonkey ??, 2018 - Classic culm slab. Nearly as good as sacre coeur. Not that much harder, sustained though
Classic culm slab. Nearly as good as sacre coeur. Not that much harder, sustained though
skelf 18 Jul, 2017 TR
ricci.andrea86 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
th£wrecker 27 Dec, 2016 TR need more stamina for this on lead I reckon its sustained to put the gear in. the climbing's fantastic if you like slabs.
with shunt
need more stamina for this on lead I reckon its sustained to put the gear in. the climbing's fantastic if you like slabs.
with shunt
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 Lead dog
Cheese Monkey 19 Jul, 2016 TR O/S Beautiful climbing the whole way. So good
with Kemics
Beautiful climbing the whole way. So good
with Kemics
Kemics 19 Jul, 2016 TR dog Couple of rests but just to look ahead, moves were fine but super thin. Would be an impressive lead
Couple of rests but just to look ahead, moves were fine but super thin. Would be an impressive lead
Georgina Brooke 4 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S Great climb, pleased I got it clean
Great climb, pleased I got it clean
theotherpetehill 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Georgina seconded with the tide coming in...
with Georgina Brooke
Georgina seconded with the tide coming in...
with Georgina Brooke
kingholmesy ??, 2016 Lead O/S
with Colin
with Colin
datoon 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 15 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Sustained and quite hard on the calves.
with datoon
Sustained and quite hard on the calves.
with datoon
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
ferdia 9 May, 2015 Lead O/S was worried i'd broken my toe the day before so was surprised to be able to get my shoes on at all, let alone get up this!
was worried i'd broken my toe the day before so was surprised to be able to get my shoes on at all, let alone get up this!
Andy Moles 9 May, 2015 2nd
with ferdia
with ferdia
red_rhodesha 22 Mar, 2015 2nd Great route, technical.
with ollie_e
Great route, technical.
with ollie_e
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 Lead G/U
alexjz 6 Aug, 2014 Lead dog Foot slipped and I fell. Very sustained and hard! Loads of gear. Must return to lead it clean.
Foot slipped and I fell. Very sustained and hard! Loads of gear. Must return to lead it clean.
bigie bob 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with Caroline
with Caroline
Tubs 26 Oct, 2013 2nd dnf Rain stopped play.
with Dave M
Rain stopped play.
with Dave M
Ed Babs 15 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Pulled ropes and re climbed after snapping a hold.
with AlexD
Pulled ropes and re climbed after snapping a hold.
with AlexD
AlexD 15 Sep, 2013 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
burto 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with tom powell, hertha
with tom powell, hertha
GPN 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with net
with net
Hidden 3 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
riddle 1 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Superb climbing. The pegs at the top could do with being replaced. Thanks to the kind person who donate the gear for the abseil.
with Tom Elliot
Superb climbing. The pegs at the top could do with being replaced. Thanks to the kind person who donate the gear for the abseil.
with Tom Elliot
mrtom 1 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Pleased I got this clean, thought it was pretty stiff...
with Roger HSmith
Pleased I got this clean, thought it was pretty stiff...
with Roger HSmith
Hidden ??, 2012 -
_m.cox_ 1 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Mad calf pump! Great route.
Mad calf pump! Great route.
steveb2006 29 Sep, 2011 Lead Slip on the greasy slab initially. Lower off an dpull ropes down
Slip on the greasy slab initially. Lower off an dpull ropes down
Pippa 19 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
jameshiggins 24 May, 2011 Lead dog Slipped and weighted gear. Arse!
with Neil Adams
Slipped and weighted gear. Arse!
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 24 May, 2011 2nd O/S Hard!
Hard!
Hidden 19 Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Good hard route. Don't have to step right at the top, can continue into final crack.
Good hard route. Don't have to step right at the top, can continue into final crack.
katherinesydney 10 Apr, 2010 2nd dnf got to top but didn't do all the moves (pulled up), so dnf
got to top but didn't do all the moves (pulled up), so dnf
Hidden 24 May, 2009 TR O/S
Hidden 24 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
ecowaller ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
feilx 7 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with Tom H
with Tom H
Marti999 ?Aug, 2006 Lead
reg_measures 28 May, 2006 Lead dog 1 rest
with timmy elson
1 rest
with timmy elson
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 2nd
andy_pemberton ?Apr, 2003 Lead Felt easy for the grade, but it was chalked. The crux could be confusing if the key hold wasn't plastered in the white stuff!
with Jonathon
Felt easy for the grade, but it was chalked. The crux could be confusing if the key hold wasn't plastered in the white stuff!
with Jonathon
Dave Musgrove Jnr 23 Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
goi.ashmore 19 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Roget 6 May, 1996 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
ellis ??, 1996 2nd O/S
with Jim Church
with Jim Church
Simon cook ?Aug, 1995 Lead
Hidden 18 Apr, 1995 Lead
duncan ?Oct, 1994 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
whispering nic ?Aug, 1994 Lead
with Kat
with Kat
Ian Jones ?Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
with Karen Ghiselli
Mark Kemball ??, 1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
with Alison Dorey
Hidden 8 Nov, 1988 Lead dog
dominic lee ?Sep, 1985 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
pete osullivan ??, 1981 Lead O/S Led on sight with Paul Bingham on a lightning trip from London. I came back 2 years later to repeat it and discovered it had been altered (all the tiny flakes had been chipped so that they had flat edges) and someone had put a peg in the crux which I removed. I have done it since and it is much more straightforward and quite a bit easier now than on the first ascent
Led on sight with Paul Bingham on a lightning trip from London. I came back 2 years later to repeat it and discovered it had been altered (all the tiny flakes had been chipped so that they had flat edges) and someone had put a peg in the crux which I removed. I have done it since and it is much more straightforward and quite a bit easier now than on the first ascent
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set