17m.
Line left of Choco Loni. Independent apart from one shared hold on Choco.
Climb the pocketed wall over the small roof into a sustained section of crimps to just below the right facing arête. Gain the arête with some difficulty. Make hard moves off small pockets to a hand hold shared with Choco Loni. A final long dynamic moves hits a jug and then easier moves to the top. 7b+ for normal reach. Perhaps 7b for the vertically gifted.
Climb the pocketed wall over the small roof into a sustained section of crimps to just below the right facing arête. Gain the arête with some difficulty. Make hard moves off small pockets to a hand hold shared with Choco Loni. A final long dynamic moves hits a jug and then easier moves to the top. 7b+ for normal reach. Perhaps 7b for the vertically gifted.
Simon Jobson 16/Feb/2025.
Ticklists
Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2021 , Sportland 2025
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Route of Interest
Realm of Chaos
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Wallsend South)