Rockfax Description
This tall line has a flat patio landing, a mid-height crux and no gear, and hence is potentially a reasonable highball f7A+ prospect for those who are suitably equipped with pads and a good head. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the obvious striking arête and left wall. Using the lower block to span left and then upwards and rejoin the arête
Ilia Nadyrbayev 07/Apr/2025.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ilia Nadyrbayev | 9 Apr |
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βeta: Yeah, totally fair. I, of course, noticed the patio and wire brushed holds at the bottom, the sections above what could be reached from the ground didn't look like it had been brushed really. Getting on it made me realise why it probably hasn't been done, it's quite morpho. It's some really good movement I thought, some of the best I've done in the area, but I don't often agree with what gets how many stars as that's quite subjective. Certainly was umming and erring about boulder or trad grade, the crux is protectable with pads (dyno slap), but the top section is definitely droppable (foot up move), and I don't think you're getting up for another go after that. Cheers, very psyched on it! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Yeah, totally fair. I, of course, noticed the patio and wire brushed holds at the bottom, the sections above what could be reached from the ground didn't look like it had been brushed really. Getting on it made me realise why it probably hasn't been done, it's quite morpho. It's some really good movement I thought, some of the best I've done in the area, but I don't often agree with what gets how many stars as that's quite subjective. Certainly was umming and erring about boulder or trad grade, the crux is protectable with pads (dyno slap), but the top section is definitely droppable (foot up move), and I don't think you're getting up for another go after that. Cheers, very psyched on it! |
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Graeme Hammond | 9 Apr |
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βeta: I'm not retro claiming it, I'm just pointing out there has a massive patio under it for some time and it was obviously brushed prior to your ascent. Doesn't mean it's been done, but I could have been. However if it was done years ago anyone not claiming it probably has lost the right to claim it now. Looks good in video but must have to be a belter to stack up against other 3 star E6s in the area. Keen to try though think it should be given a bouldering grade if it is done that way. Good effort! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I'm not retro claiming it, I'm just pointing out there has a massive patio under it for some time and it was obviously brushed prior to your ascent. Doesn't mean it's been done, but I could have been. However if it was done years ago anyone not claiming it probably has lost the right to claim it now. Looks good in video but must have to be a belter to stack up against other 3 star E6s in the area. Keen to try though think it should be given a bouldering grade if it is done that way. Good effort! |
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Ilia Nadyrbayev | 9 Apr |
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βeta: This is vaguest retro claim I’ve had yet ??? I think I’ve built patios and brushed several LGPs, guess I’ve sent those already then | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is vaguest retro claim I’ve had yet ??? I think I’ve built patios and brushed several LGPs, guess I’ve sent those already then |
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Graeme Hammond | 8 Apr |
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βeta: "Obviously done by everyone 20 years ago already" - possibly true given there is a massive old patio area below this and it was obvious it had previous been brushed. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: "Obviously done by everyone 20 years ago already" - possibly true given there is a massive old patio area below this and it was obvious it had previous been brushed. |
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Ilia Nadyrbayev | 7 Apr |
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βeta: Highball 7A+ | βeta? | |
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βeta: Highball 7A+ |
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Bamford Edge)