Climbs 202
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 280m a.s.l
Faces W
An unknown climber on the the hard moves of Suspense, E2 5c at Lawrencefield. © Simon Richardson
A hidden and sheltered quarry (named after the moor behind the old workings and called Laurencefield on some maps) has been visited by climbers for over sixty years. By the early 1970s climbing standards and protection had improved to the point that many of the early aid routes became excellent free climbs in a new route gold-rush not seen before or since. Although playing second fiddle to nearby Millstone, Lawrencefield quarry remains very popular. With a good set of climbs, a selection of easier and immensely popular routes around Gingerbread Slab, and the hard classics on the steep smooth walls around the pool, there is something here for most tastes. The long right-hand side of the quarry also provides some decent climbs, especially on the Red Wall area and has undergone a recent phase of development by boulderers, with some excellent problems across the grades which are well worth seeking out amongst the tranquil woods.
The quarry is situated near the Surprise View, on the opposite side of the road to Millstone Quarry. Park at the large Surprise View car park, cross the road and follow a narrow track towards the bend. Just before the bend, follow a path down leftwards and through a gate. The quarry lies hidden from view but sandy paths lead rightwards down the slope past the end of the rocks into the main bay which is gradually filling with a sea of silver birch. An alternative approach for the Little Upper Tier is to take the top path round the lip of the pool walls and head down by the side of the fence towards the trees where one can drop down to the rocks.
Dates: 28 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 update: There are Kestrels nesting in Cascara Crack again this year. The restriction applies to Cascara Crack to SAE inclusive.
For Pulpit Groove and Suspense/etc please either top out or belay back in the trees away from the edge of the ledge to help avoid disturbing the birds.
Sheltered, meaning there is little breeze, but the Great Harry area is in the shade towards late afternoon/early evening - perfect for getting out of the sun. SCGale - 01/Jul/18 |
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