UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

05/05/2023 - Reports of the kestrel returning to nest have been received. Until this is fully verified, please refrain from climbing the routes 'Mouse Trap', 'Owl and the Antelope', and 'On Jupiter and Mars

 

 

25/05/2022 - We have now confirmed that there is a kestrel nest halfway up the "Owl and the Antelope". Please refrain from climbing routes in this area from April 15th - July 31st to allow the birds to care for their young. 

 

BMC have been advised that Barn Owls could be nesting at this crag. If so these birds have special protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act.  Avoid climbing the routes on the Left Hand Retaining wall "Left Over" to "Half man-Half Machine"  inclusive.

 

Rockfax Description
A good route up the slab, fingery overlap and juggy headwall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Move to the pocket of 'Squash Match' but continue straight up through the roof. Finish up the groove in the headwall just right of the blank right angled corner.

A Rosier 27/Sep/2007.

Ticklists

South Wales by Train (from Cardiff) , Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List , Mid-Sixes Starred Valleys Sandstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
ClimbingBowl 19 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Crux becomes obvious when you find the elusive magic left hand crimp on what looks like a flat section of wall. There is a micro crimp 12 or 18 inches to the lower left which you can use as a brief stopover on the way to the proper full sized crimp, but it's not vital. Don't try to knee bar to grab the magic crimp, then you'll never reach it. Super fun route!
Show beta
βeta: Crux becomes obvious when you find the elusive magic left hand crimp on what looks like a flat section of wall. There is a micro crimp 12 or 18 inches to the lower left which you can use as a brief stopover on the way to the proper full sized crimp, but it's not vital. Don't try to knee bar to grab the magic crimp, then you'll never reach it. Super fun route!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terry Forkwit

Grade: 6b ***
(Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar))

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