110m, 3 pitches.
The Piolet is the traverse of the Gendarme. The upper ridge is basically a nice scramble.
A excellent climb on good rock, scenery and a knife edge gendarme. Climbs the ridge on the Southern flank of Coire nam fuaran. Approach via Coire Lan NTS path. Drop off ridge footpath to Mullach Buidhe as the buttress comes into view. Start right of the buttress toe at a obvious hanging corner. Pointed boulder at its base.
1. 15m 5a. Climb directly into hanging corner and follow to a large boulder ledge.
2. 35m 4a. Behind the belay traverse the wall up and left to a ledge. Climb a crack line back up right until a narrow slanting ledge leads into a overhang corner. Climb this leading to the crest. Above follow a 2 tier rib leading to a dramatic exit onto the knife edge gendarme. Follow the top edge to reach a wider seat to belay. block belay.
3. 10m. Descent of gendarme should be via a down climb of a crack on the South slab leading to a small col in the ridge. Abb would be possible from spike at top of crack but really not necessary to leave tat.
4. The final 50m is a scramble up the ridge keeping to left edge for best rock.
A excellent climb on good rock, scenery and a knife edge gendarme. Climbs the ridge on the Southern flank of Coire nam fuaran. Approach via Coire Lan NTS path. Drop off ridge footpath to Mullach Buidhe as the buttress comes into view. Start right of the buttress toe at a obvious hanging corner. Pointed boulder at its base.
1. 15m 5a. Climb directly into hanging corner and follow to a large boulder ledge.
2. 35m 4a. Behind the belay traverse the wall up and left to a ledge. Climb a crack line back up right until a narrow slanting ledge leads into a overhang corner. Climb this leading to the crest. Above follow a 2 tier rib leading to a dramatic exit onto the knife edge gendarme. Follow the top edge to reach a wider seat to belay. block belay.
3. 10m. Descent of gendarme should be via a down climb of a crack on the South slab leading to a small col in the ridge. Abb would be possible from spike at top of crack but really not necessary to leave tat.
4. The final 50m is a scramble up the ridge keeping to left edge for best rock.
Ruairidh McKie Fraser McKie 20/May/2025.
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Route of Interest
Dogleg / Blank Linkup
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Rosa Slabs)